Lynskey GR300 Titanium Gravel Frameset
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- čas přidán 13. 07. 2024
- The Lynskey GR300 frameset forms the foundation of their GR300 titanium gravel bike. I opted for the internal cable routed version, but much of what will be discussed in this video is also relevant for the external version. This is a pretty long video, and a significant portion is specific to building the frameset, so I've provided an index below with some time codes to break up into more manageable topical chunks.
Frameset Intro: 0:00
Frameset Features: 1:26
Weight: 9:40
Considerations when building the bike: 10:23
General issues/considerations: 16:14
Thru-Axles: 18:25
Wrapping up: 22:54
More great content at www.mamilian.bike - Sport
Excellent detailed video with lots of good information. I just purchased a GR300 and I will have it professionally built but this video has given me good ideas about how to direct the build.
Will be ordering a Ti bike from a closely related company but this excellent video provided me with several questions to ask before placing the order. Thank you.
This video was outstanding--and surprisingly this morning, relaxing to watch. I am a self-admittedly Type A when building something, so some of those issues you had might have “flamed me”, just a bit. I’ve been on the fence for the past six months at buying a gravel-bikepacking ride-giving both Lynsey and Litespeed serious consideration. The white seat and orange bar tape at first “bothered” me....but the more I watched your video, the more I liked the look. Nice ride, amigo....and Bravo-Zulu on the value and thoroughness of this video.
Thanks. I haven't quite hit make-a-call-on-the-bike miles yet (60 to go), but I really like it. The only thing that still annoys me is that I can't mount a dual-PM on it, but in the grand scheme of things I didn't get this bike to do the kind of riding where that really matters.
Great thorough video! Thanks for the tips. Lynskey should be taking notes I think.
That s why I got litespeed bike. Nice & clean look.
Excellent video. Thanks for the caveat section(s). While I'm waiting for my GR300 to arrive I'll be shopping for some better thru axles, ha!
The thru axles work very well and are well thought out. You should set the adjustment on your "hub squeeze" then set your levers back and back- not like this guy...
Excellent video. I think the issues you brought to light here reflect why Lynskey is priced the way it is...
Great point. I've never thought about it that way.
It looks like Lynskey took notes from your video, now all bikes (as of 08/29/23) ship with sweet Robert Axle Project axles😁
That's hilarious, and awesome! So much better.
thanks for the detailed video. good call on the axles, bought a Fox MTB fork with the exact same axel type. not hard to use or anything but super annoying and the edges of the cut out for the lever deformed and poked out....corners are now sharp as a razor. Ordered a steel Mason in July and am still waiting, think I am going to give up cancel it and order a GR300 (same price)
You can purchase shifter and brake housing separately by the foot that is more than long enough to cable an entire bike.
I used to have a GR260. Now I’m riding a steel Fairlight Secan. But man, I’m wanting back onto titanium
Great vid! Wish I had seen this one before ordering the gr300 frameset myself. Happy with the frameset but ordering some of the specifics will take time. Btw, do you know the appropriate length of the Shimano mounting C bolt for the 160 mm rear adapter when using the recommended spacers? The C bolts that come with the Ultegra BR-R8070 brake calipers appears to be too short.
I used the 15mm C bolts with this frame.
Really enjoyed the video. Thorough and informative. I'm considering getting a gr300. Are you still liking yours? I'd love to know how it's going long term. Thanks.
Aside from the niggles I mentioned in the video, it's an awesome bike. Very comfortable, super stable.
Great overall review. Do you you have the Robert Axle project part#’s by any chance? I gonna need some when I build my frame soon. Thanks!
I made a separate video on that: czcams.com/video/n921Kzl1Fpk/video.html
Would love to hear how it rides.
Excellent video, thanks so much. I'm currently shopping Ti frames to upgrade my gravel/bikepacking/touring bike. I would also replace the thru-axles but at least you can. What seems most annoying to me is the internal cable routing being sort of "lazy style" and heavy. Why not build cable stops into the frame like everyone else? I think that would annoy me a bit. Have you seen any advantages of having cable housing running the length?
I have mixed feelings about it. There's an argument to be made that it protects the inner cables from grit and water better, and is less complicated. I don't know how real those benefits are, but I have ridden the bike in terrible conditions and the cables are almost completely protected.
Hello. Thanks for the vlog. I"m having issues with the Lynskey Ti setback seat post. I can't seem to keep the seat level. Despite proper install and torque, my saddle keeps tilting back after a few minutes of riding. Did you get yours to work? What is the fix? Any insight you can offer would be greatly appreciated.
My "fix" was to stop using it :D. I never got it to stop slipping. Replaced it with a nice carbon seat post.
Has anyone found the right technique for re-installing the rear wheel on a GR300? I'm turning off the clutch on the rear mech and shifting to the smallest cog. But as Andrew pointed out in this video, the problem is tire clearance against that pesky piece of the frame. I struggle to get the wheel forward enough to hook the casette under the chain. Eventually I will get it, but only after some thrashing around against the rear mech. So frustrating. Any advice?
I've gotten better at it, but never solved it with anything less than running smaller tires :). That said, swapping the 45c Riddler for a 42c Pathfinder was a great choice for other reasons too.
Very informative video great job what size frame and what would you say it weighs roughly? Thanks
Large. The frame is 2.05kg. Uncut fork is 475g.
Hi @Mamilian. What is the finish of your frame? Im also in the market for a GR300, thanks!
It's the mill finish. If you're planning to upgrade the finish, definitely have a chat with them before ordering. They threw it in for free.
what make if watch you wearing with the Orange Strap ?
Good Video BTW
Garmin Fenix 6 Titanium
Although he appears not to be familiar with them, other manufacturers do have through axles that work like the Lynskeys, with a quick release type lever, the ones on my Fox fork, for example. Otherwise, glad to see him run through the build issues that he ran into.
Not sure about his problem with the Lynskey seat post. I have that seat post, although not the zero setback, and I've never run into the slippage problem. However, I also don't have a seat with carbon rails, so maybe I just tightened it down beyond the recommended torque setting.
Thanks for sharing your feedback. That other OEMs use this type of axle didn't make them less crap 🙂. My fat bike came with a similar setup. It also got replaced. Regarding the seatpost. I ended up getting the setback seatpost. It wasn't as bad, but still has the same issues. I have since replaced it with another seatpost, which works properly.
@@Mamilian Don't recall for sure, but I may have coated the inside of the seat post clamping area with that carbon clamping grease with grit in it.
As for the quick release style through axle, I would tend to agree that I don't like the design. My preference is starting to be the through axles that you use an hex key to remove. They are lighter and why would you be out on your bike without a multi-tool?
@@erics9214 I tried assembly paste, also tried scoring the inside of the tube (per Lynskey Support recommendation) with coarse grit sandpaper, and torquing it to the absolute limit recommended by Lynskey Support. If I were using a saddle with metal rails, the torque number would have been higher, but I like the additional compliance carbon rails net on a gravel bike.
These things helped, but wasn't able to find a permanent solution, so I solved it with a different seatpost :).
Mamilian, Are you running a 160mm rotor on the back? I just received my frame and found that the 105 caliper I am installing over a 160mm rotor need a spacer/adapter. I am wondering if the caliper bolts I bought (based on this video) will work once I have the spacer, or if I'll need a different length. Thanks!
Yes. 160mm front and rear.
@@Mamilian Thank you. Interestingly, my frame is a size L and, according to my scale (similar to yours), weighs 4.25 lbs., or about 1,930 grams with derailleur hanger and all frame screws (for cages/racks, etc.). I did not include the axle or seat tube clamp. The only difference I can think of that might make that bit of weight difference is externally routed vs. internally routed frame (inner hose/cable guides). It is not a huge difference, but notable. I didn't weigh the fork.
@@flatlandrider2369 It totally makes sense that the internal would weigh more. There's an extra titanium pipe inside the downtube.
Great video....I would like to do a Lynsky GR Pro build. Do you know if Lynsky bottom brackets neeed to be faced prior to assembly?
Can't say more generally, but the BB interface tube was fine on mine based on a quick inspection check with a flat surface and a flashlight. I don't have the tools to actually measure it though. Haven't had any issues with either Shimano or SRAM BSA BBs.
@@Mamilian got it...thank you for responding
I have a giant revolt 2 alloy in medium. Im curious what your height is, what size revolt you had and what size lynskey you bought. I dont know if I want a medium or medium large lynsky as theres none close to test ride
Large in both. They have very similar geometry.
What size bolts did you end up needing for the rear caliper? Think it’s something you can get at a local hardware store?
"Shimano Flat-Mount Road Disc Caliper Fixing Bolt C, 15mm Thick Chainstay". In theory, you could use any bolt with the appropriate length and threading, but the Shimano bolts have a safety tab on the end for a clip. Personally, I wouldn't use a bolt that wasn't designed for this purpose because I want to be confident that it can take the loads and won't corrode in the caliper.
@@Mamilian hmm...but I guess that's more of a concern for Shimano, it seems. Currently have sram parts to install and no safety tab/clip that I see
@@_dmart Yep, SRAM doesn't use clips, but the points around load/corrosion are probably still valid. I totally get that's it's crazy to spend $20 on two bolts, but when I compare that cost to new teeth or a month off the bike because I crashed, it doesn't seem like a great place to save $.
Great video -- I'm contemplating buying an R300; my ideal Ti bike is all-road/road bike that can accommodate larger tires for an occasional gravel ride -- do you think the R300 is a good choice?
As an "all-road" bike, I think the R300 would be a soild choice. Max tire size is 32c, so that's the main limitation to how gravelous you can get. If you're riding chunky, really loose, or muddy stuff, that might not be enough.
@@Mamilian Ok thanks
I'd love to see a 3 year long term review of your GR300. What changes did you make from the initial build? What would do differently if you bought a Ti bike now? Would you get the GR330 again? Any advice for those of us new to the world of Ti?
Great idea!
Is that tiny hole in the seat-post for pressure relief when the seat is adjusted lower perhaps?
My assumption was that it's there to allow air to more easily move in/around the frame just in case moisture gets in. It's quite possible that it serves that purpose as well.
It is there for when they weld the circular clamp housing to the seat tube. The inside and the outside of the tube must be purged with inert gas during welding to avoid oxidation. The hole allows for gas flow down the inside of the seat tube when they do the weld.
Which axle were you going to replace yours with exactly? I have the GR300 and found the axles similarly frustrating.
I used Robert Axle Project axles: czcams.com/video/n921Kzl1Fpk/video.html
@@Mamilian Was thinking Robert Axle would be a great solution. Am looking into a Ti frame but considering the Chinese Waltly option and your issues hopefully will keep some of these issues from recurring.
@@onemetre I considered Waltly, seems like a great option depending on your requirements. Definitely LMK how it goes if you get one.
Thank you for this great video. Was the 2,050 gram frame weight with the headset, axles, seat clamp, etc? Or was it stripped to frame only?
The weight for the frame was with the rear axle removed, seat clamp on, no removable headset elements (e.g. bearings & topper). In retrospect, I should have removed the seatpost clamp, but too late to fix that now :).
@@Mamilian Thank you for your response. I don't think the seat post clamp added too much. That frame weight is a tad more than they advertise.
@@flatlandrider2369 Most companies are a bit loose with the claimed weight :). The clamp is 30.2g.
@@flatlandrider2369 I was wrong before (found the photo). I actually did remove the seat clamp when I weighed the frame.
@@Mamilian Here is my dilemma, if you care to offer any thoughts. I have been demo-ing a Lauf True Grit, which weighs about 18.5 lbs. with pedals. I can buy it at a very good price, as it is a leftover. I am not sure I like carbon bikes, and am thinking of buying a GR300 and putting all of the parts from the Lauf onto it. It has 1560 gram DT Swiss wheels, carbon bars and seatpost, and a Sram Force1 drivetrain (not a Sram guy, but it works fine). I figure the added frame weight, but the lesser fork weight would put me just under 20 lbs. Am I nuts? FWIW, I have a Lynskey mountain bike that I really enjoy.
I ordered a complete build of the GR250 3 years ago; so I didn't have some of the issues you had. They didn't offer the internal routing back then, and the attachment for the rear brake caliper changed. The thru-axles don't bother me; the closing mechanism is little like the old quick release. I agree with the chain stay bridge making it more difficult to reinstall the wheel. I had ordered to etched logos, but the small decals are coming off. I generally like the bike but I have to admit that I'm not convinced that a titanium frame is worth the money over one made of aluminum alloy.
I'm not sure where I fall on the value-vs-aluminum frame either. It's definitely better at damping trail chatter, but it was significantly more expensive too, so it should be better :).
If you were to buy this frame again, would you still go with the internal cable routing version? How about the industrial mill finish? How’s it holding up?
The finish is holding up perfectly. I love the indestructibility of titanium. TBH, I'm conflicted about the internal routing. I like it, I think it looks a little cleaner, but it doesn't really add anything to the bike functionally except cost. Sorry I don't have a better answer there :).
Thanks for responding. I agree that internal looks cleaner. Have you ever been in a situation where you wished the frame had external cable routing? I’m looking into buying a GR300 frameset, and am trying to decide if it is worth the cost to go external and if there are any drawbacks to it. Thanks!
@@seanhayes2112 The only time I seriously questioned the decision to go internal was when I had to pay the invoice :).
Yeah, the additional cost of internal is a concern as I’m on a budget. Was curious about how much your build weighed when completed? Thanks
@@seanhayes2112 I can't find the photo of the exact weight, and it's changed since then (different seat post, top tube bag, etc). It's ~20lb with 42c Pathfinders on it.
Do you put protection in headtube area for cable rubbing stain?
I did not, it would be really easy to clean off it it was a problem, but it hasn't been. I do put helicopter tape on carbon bikes to protect the frame in this area. It's really easy to rub off paint, especially on a gravel bike.
@@Mamilian What is helicopter tape?
@@erickcarlson9245 It's a clear protective tape specially designed to prevent friction wear for things like this. If you look closely on most bike builds there are little bits of it around the headset to prevent damage from the hoses/outer cables.
You can very easily anodize your frame instead of crappy decals.
They have this frameset on sale for $1,450. Do you think that's reasonable?
That is less than I paid. So maybe ;).
Some rough data for you Andrew. In our group we have a cheap luggage scale that we call the scale of truth. We aren't fast enough to use grams. ;-) All weights with pedals. Arvind's small (few years old), rim brake SuperSix 17.2 lbs (ENVE climbing wheels), Hussain's new 58 SuperSix EVO 18 lbs, my Seven Axiom xx with Ultegra Di2 and ENVE gravel fork 18.8 lbs, Roofi's Medium Lynskey with the exact same Farsport wheels and tires and Ultegra mechanical gruppo and just one bottle cage 21.5 lbs.
This build with titanium post is 9.4 kg (20.68lb) with XT pedals and bottle cages. Definitely room for improvement if I want, but I'm probably not going to mess too much.
@@Mamilian The FSA carbon seat post will be much more comfortable than Titanium, there are 2 excecllent lab tests done on these if you google "Velo Lab Seatpost Review Getting the most from your post - VeloNews.com" or " Seatposts_ Often Overlooked Yet Critical For Your Comfort (Lab Testing) - CyclingAbout.com". I specced the FSA K-Force w/ 25 SB on my Ti Bike, rides amazing vs metal and the labs proved it scientifically (or somewhat scientifically). Carbon fiber absorbs different frequency of vibration than Ti (and the FSA-K-Force is one of the best out of the bunch), by having both Ti and Carbon components, you may end up absorbing a broader spectrum of road imperfections and add to the overall comfort. Also, you might end up saving more money by returning the Ti seatpost which seems to have a design flaw anyways...just my 2 cents. Really enjoyed watching your bike-related videos thus far, please keep on posting, very educational and I've learned a ton from them. Cheers!
@@jamesthecow I originally picked up the FSA K-Force for exactly that reason. It made riding a wheel-on trainer tolerable vs the aluminum post that came with my Domane.
To add to this "database" of build weights, I just built a large GR300 with external routing that came in at 20.05 lbs., with pedals, and with tubes. It has 105 shifters and calipers, 160mm rotors, GRX812 derailleur, DT Swiss XR1501 wheelset with 240S hubs, Maxxis 700x40c tires, Easton carbon bars and cranks, carbon seat post with a not-the-lightest Bontrager saddle, aluminum stem, and SPD pedals. I did swap out the axles. The stock ones were acceptable, but I did not prefer them. I did not use exactly the same ones Mamilian used, but they are similar. So, it is not SUPER light, but is respectably light for a relatively lower-cost titanium frame.
@@flatlandrider2369 Which axles did you use? My friends with the GR300 may be interested but I know they aren't at Andrew's price point!
Not sure I would bother with internally routed because those cables and hoses still look like a mess at the head tube
It also costs 50% more currently, personally can't justify spending 500$ extra...
What size of frame did you end up going with?
Large
@@Mamilian How is the sizing on these? I'm just barely 6' with a 32" inseam and it puts me between M/L and L. For reference, I ride a L 2007 Look 565 and a L 2021 Trek Top Fuel.
@@gfeucht The sizing is really consistent b/w this and my Revolt, both are L (you can see them next to each other here: czcams.com/video/mNOnEpxpMWk/video.html). I'm 6'1", and the L is perfect for me. Either would probably work for you. You're in the enviable position that you have more flexibility to choose a size based on how you want the bike to ride. This is a great way to visualize the differences: bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=5fa321816f35df0017f62930,5fa321816f35df0017f62931,
That's another great site I didn't know of, thanks for heads up!
What size is it and how tall are you sir?
The frame is large, I'm 6'1" (187cm).
@@Mamilian thank you so much for the reply, i got size M GR300 frame for sale in my country, should be perfect size to me (178 cm)
whats was wrong with the aluminium frame?
found the video where you talked about it
Thomson masterpiece seatpost would be a nice LIGHT replacement
I ended up using a S-Works carbon seatpost. It's been great so far.
How much does the frameset weigh?
czcams.com/video/yZLGX6CR-TA/video.html
Which finishing does it have?
Sorry, should have mentioned that. It has the "Industrial Mill" finish.
@@Mamilian Thank you!
So… does it include spacers? 😂
Heads up guys. He is wrong about power meter compatibility. I am using a stages power meter on a grx810 crankset and it clears the frame by a substantial amount.
Thanks for letting us know the GRX crank fits, but you might want to characterize that differently. I said my Pioneer PM didn't fit, and I couldn't put a cadence sensor in the normal place because of the clearance against the frame. You can see the clearance in the video. It's way too close. If you use a crank with a wider Q factor of course there's going to be more room. Rotor also makes something that might work.
@@Mamilian yeah i was going to bring this up, it's a gravel frame, the geo is designed around gravel components like GRX which as you mentioned have a wider q-factor, not really surprising that your ultegra power meter has clearance issues, very nice walk thru though.
@@clovioushoofus3928 Fairly confident that the GR300 was designed before GRX was launched. It definitely was designed before GRX was widely available. Have to keep in mind that Shimano's original approach to gravel is exactly what I have on this bike (and my Revolt): Road Group + RX800 RD. Probably also worth keeping in mind that road cranks are the only way to put chainrings that are sized appropriately for racing on gravel bikes.
Those QR thru-axles at first glance seemed cool, BUT THEN, reality set in and I realized like you, Those Axles are poop.
A Lynskey with a Whisky stem…that‘s coherent, I‘d say … 😂
Only temporary :)
Gravel bike needs higher Q-factor cranks - that's your problem.
Using a different Q is a complicated topic. It's not something I would randomly suggest to someone without knowing more about what problem they are trying to solve.
went to FALKENJAGD!Forget LINSKEY!
what model is gravel specific?
It's quite surprising to me that the option for internal cabling looks more like an after thought solution instead of one which is properly designed. The cluster of cables all entering the downtube at the same point is messy. Not to mention how they all then pop out and pops back in via the chainstay. Bad engineering.