Completing the Restoration and Testing the 1930s Craftsman Bandsaw.
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- čas přidán 28. 03. 2024
- This saw has been a lot of work and I had a few things to perfect on the slow down but I could not be more happy with the end result. This Craftsman Bandsaw (made by Herbert's Machinery) was a rock solid peace of art when it left the factory and well worth the efforts to restore. - Thanks for watching!
Part 6
“Not bad at all!” Are you kidding? It’s bloody fantastic. Well done for such a brilliant restoration. 👏👏👍😀
Haha,,, Thank you very much!
Beautiful job with a lot of visible moving parts. Would look fantastic under glass or clear plastic. Gear belts would have worked well on the final drives.
Thanks, I agree on the timing belt but finding the pulleys the right size is hard and when you find one the cost is high.
@@ellieprice363
You have such a knack of combining old and new, it’s just amazing, it looks just so beautiful. The thing I love most about your videos, I’ve said it before, is your honesty if something doesn’t work, you explain why, and show how you rectify the problem and show how you did it! You’re the best, I always look forward to Fridays for your videos. Nice job again! 👏👏👏
Thank you so much! Comment like this keep me motivated.
Thanks for showing all the attempts to solve the slippage problem. It helps me to understand your thought process. Which,in turn, helps me to solve similar problems.
Interesting and you are welcome!
Beautiful old machine, back in action!
Yes indeed! Thanks
Where there is a will there is a way. I like it too. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
You bet
She's a beauty Mark and not only is She a Beauty She is a worker. Another great addition to your shop. Thanks !
Thanks 👍 I've already used it several times, its great!
I love cast iron, and that old bandsaw reminds me why. Great job Mark.
Me too! Thanks!
I always look forward to your projects always something different
I do like different, Thanks!
So, you turned a museum piece in to a master piece. It looks too beautiful to be used. But, of course, an unused machine doesn't have any value :)
Good philosophy. I totally agree and will definitely use this saw... and have already.
Hello Winky, you did an awesome restoration job, but you didn't show us cutting wood, maybe in another video, wow you have some really cool machines, awesome work shop, thanks for sharing with us, and the commentating was 100% you made us feel as if we were there in your shop, cheers from me. 😷👍👍👍👍👍
Wow, nice to hear, thanks!
Great work,Mark.Thank you.
Very welcome, Thanks!
I believe you did a very good job. You seem to be very particular I watch all of your videos and I definitely enjoy watching them so keep up the good work and I will keep watching you do a very nice job. Your shop looks very organized. Have a great day. God bless.
Awesome! Thank you!
That was a fun project Mark, thanks for sharing
Cheers
Glad you enjoyed it, I did too!
Great job Mark. Love the cabinet. 😃
Thanks! 👍
Looks good, and works good aswell, win win Winky.
Thank you sir!
Nice vintage look! Great job!!!!!
Good to hear, Thank
That stand looks great Mark 👍👍good to see you got the pully sorted out.
Thanks! Yeah the V belt still slips but it take some effort. I might try one of this multi-groove belts are a timing belt in the future but for now I'm calling it done.
Looks like a million bucks! Thank you
Thanks, this was a fun project.
Another antique machine beautifully restored, well done. I think that the link belt was slipping because the tabs on the inside were bottoming out in the V. 👍
Could be, I was also a cheaper link belt. I have a smaller one on my drill press that is made much better.
That's been my experience with link belts too. They rarely work for me. Next time, buy a VX series belt which will fit into the same pulleys but deliver more torque. Get a toilet paper roll, tape one end off and then fill it with melted paraffin and when solid you'll have a ready to use lube stick for your blade for making heavy cuts - it helps.
Interesting, i was thinking a multi-groove belt
A VX series belt is an enhancement of the V profile and the increased grip of them may be enough to work before you're forced into significant modifications (like multi-groove components). They're at least cheap to try first.
Concerning the unprotected chain drive, at the start of the next video, please hold up both hands so that we can count you figures Mr. Winky. 🙂.
The stand looks great and just what I thought you would make.
The chain could do a lot more damage than the belt but the belt is still more concerning. It's on the operator side of the machine. I drilled some hole for a future guard over the belt
Awesome build and problem solving. You'll get a lot of use out of that!
Thanks, and I agree, I've already used it a few time.
I think it's a masterpiece !
Wow, thanks!
On the belt that's slipping you might be able to put a spring loaded idler pulley on the outside of the belt and fix your problems. It will pull the V belt down into the pulley where it will not slip.
The additional tension worked well but you're right, more wrap helps
Great job Mark 👏
Thanks
The Gleaner combines used a wood block to adjust chain tension; It was cut with a radius on one side and worked pretty well.
Interesting, thanks
This came together very well. Gorgeous old machine. The stand looks terrific. I also like the contrast with the handle.
I have good luck with the link belts. Presently using one on e.g., my milling machine. No slippage, but I do have good tension on the belt.
Dave.
Thank you very much! Yeah, I think the link belt I have is not a good one. I have one on my drill press that works great
Really nice work sir. Looking forward to the next restoration 🙂
Thanks 👍
Congratulations! Sir
Thank you!
I like it....design solutions on the fly.
I had a plan but it did change for sure!
I’m trying that “ammonia fumes” on some oak! Great show!
Go for it! But be careful.
And use white oak, red oak turns an ugly green color.
@@WinkysWorkshop I wonder if the fuming would turn white Ash wood a deep brown like the Oak.
@@howardosborne8647 As far as I know the only wood that does well is white oak. I've tried pine, poplar, red oak and beech. The red oak and beech both darkened but not as much and the beech looked okay. I have no idea about ash. Here's a cut and past from the Fine Woodworking web site: White Oak Fumes Well because of its high tannin content. Tannins are organic compounds that react to ammonia hydroxide fumes, darkening the surface. Mahogany, walnut, cherry, chestnut, redwood, and hemlock all have sufficient tannin content to fume. Keep in mind that there are no tannins in sapwood, so fuming won’t darken it. Also, tannin content varies from tree to tree, so select boards carefully-a tabletop made from several boards could have inconsistent color.
Superb job, nothing wrong with a weight, spring or a lever to tension a belt what ever works. Belated happy Easter mate.
Thanks 👍
“I LIKE IT”
Ha, THANKS!
Great job.
Thanks! Yeah, Its easy to switch to wood but I'm still thinking about keeping my other bandsaw.
fantastic result.
Thank you! Cheers!
Nice band saw. Came out great. Looking forward to the next build.
Thanks 👍
I like it too.
Thanks
ERES UN ARTISTA AMIGO
Thanks!
Mr Winky you can get a Vee belt spray that stops slipping also how about a toothed belt, when sombody looks at that machine in 100 years time it will baffle them, nice work sir 👴🏻👍
Haha... you are probably right. As far as the belt goes, I tried belt dressing. The new pulley and tension are pretty much resolved the issue but I was also thinking about a multi-groove belt or a tooth belt.
Hey there Mark, absolutely beautiful machine, love the color of the wood and the handle came out amazing, I wish you would relocate your on/off switch, I think it kinda of dangerous in the middle, plus with long sleeves/loose clothing it could be harmful. Just looking out for ya. Again beautiful job my friend, be safe
Happy Easter
I agree... also maybe a guard on the oppertor side pulley
@@WinkysWorkshop yes, 100% 👍 agree
V-ribbed belts might have worked better for you. They're very flexible and have good resistance to slippage.
I think you are right. I might need to try that
Fantastic job all around. I just refurbed one of the Delta gearbox saws but can only get the blade speed down to 120 fps or so with the pulley sizes that will fit. Thinking about a chain drive to get it down under 100 fps. I can get a smaller sprocket on the motor shaft.
120 is a good speed I think. Thanks.
sweet
Thanks
I see an entry coming at the next county crafts fair...
Haha... probably not buy it's a nice looking shop addition.
I like it !!
thanks
Nice! You had the link belt running backwards. There should be small arrows on the belt indicating the direction. The tabs should point away from the direction of travel. Take care, G.
Thanks, however according to the instructions I was running the belt in the correct direction. I just double checked several internet source and they all agreed.
Great work Mark. It's nice to see a project where aesthetic detail is just as important as the function. The wooden panels look beautiful.
@@Preso58 Thanks Mark, one reason I love the old machines is because they took pride in the design. I like to add to this or at least maintain the style.
@@Preso58 Preso intersecting with one of my comments? Too cool. I don't sub to anyone but have been watching your videos for years. Take care, G.
@@WinkysWorkshop Seems like the link I posted got stuck in a filter you need to approve. I've been using link belts for years and maybe I saw your video in a different way, but I will say it sure looks to me like it was running backwards. I have a video posted on Fenner link belts that should show what I'm speaking of. Take care Mark, G.
While Winky gets frustrated by belt tension, what frustrates me, is that I have furniture, expensive furniture, in my living room not as pretty, well made, nice as his machine stands.
I need to update my living room. Steel and wood look great together.
Sehr gut 👍
thanks
Really good project, start to finish (is it finished? It is a project..) I enjoy the way you happily swap from metal to wood and back again. Les in UK 🇬🇧
Yeah, its finished. I love woodworking but the combination of wood and metal is great.
quite profesional
thanks
Excellent video. Right on. The belt slipping was causing you some tension. 😁 However, you persevered. I really admire your problem solving skills. Thanks for the videos. PS.. More Mellow😁
Thanks 👍 Haha... more Mellow on the way!
If you still have belt slipping issues, you could consider a toothed belt.
That would be ideal although the pulleys are hard to find. I'm thinking a multi-groove belt.
@@WinkysWorkshop A multi-groove belt is also a good idea, but would still require high tension.
You may be correct, I have never used one.@@keithviolette5870
I would put all sprockets .
A chian would work great for metal but it's too fast when cutting wood.
Hi, Try a .025 thick 10-14 variable pitch bi-metal blade on your saw. it's what I use on my Delta 14" saw.
The one I have is 8-12 v. pitch but you're right
@@WinkysWorkshop Side note: My Index mill was made in 1948.
I use 10/14T blades also but I sure hate that they stopped making straight 10T Bi-Metal. 1/4 x 10T x .035 Bi-Metal was our standard blade on a large Doall for 20 years in a tool & die shop. We purchased them in 100 ft rolls and cut them to length and welded and annealed them on the machine welder.
More chains and sprockets! Go steampunk!
Haha... I like it! Thanks
Winky, why did you not go for toothed timing belt instead of chain. You could have even done it with the main saw belt instead of trying the link belting. Regards from Australia.
That would have been much better I think. The primary reasons were cost an availability but there was also the tension issue on the shorter belt. Easily solved with a tension idler but still another issue. So far I've only found a couple of sources for timing belt pulleys and the selections are limited and at a very high cost.
@@WinkysWorkshop Hi Mark. I buy all my belts and pulleys on eBay, very cheap and quick mostly come from China. If you pick the 5 mm pitch pulleys the belts come in 5 mm increments in length. You may have to go to one supplier for pulleys and another for belts if you want a particular length. Not all sellers have the same selection on belts. My last purchase I had to deal with 4 sellers to get the set I needed. Good luck if you do want to go down that route. Regards.
Sound like I need to dig a bit deeper, thanks@@daveticehurst4191
gravity does not work well for tensioning belts, especially at low speeds and high torque. i have used link belts on several old machines with aluminum and cast steel pulleys, no issues.
there are different link belt suppliers too, some are better than others. i get mine from Lee Valley.
The link belt I bought was not great... i've used others that are better
@@WinkysWorkshop where did you get it?
@@stevem268 FB marketplace
Not telling You what to do (that's what wives are for) ... but if You use an electrode around 1/2 the size, and use TIG wire instead of TIG rod, Your ability to do fine work will greatly improve. Also, if You will pick up some clear welding torch lens you will be much happier.
All that said ... the work results are purely art. It's such a great looking machine. Made back when manufacturers really cared about their product.
Clear lens? You mean magnifying? You might be right about the electrode size.
Thanks
@@WinkysWorkshop Clear Lens: No magnification. Look them up. Instead of using the pink ceramic cups, available is a clear Pyrex lens. It's purpose is to allow you to see the work better and it also provides extraordinary light on the work. It's a whole new ballgame with these, but not harder.
Welding wire / thinner tungsten: Just visit your welding shop who will provide the setup. Not expensive at all. With minimal practice, you will be able to weld intricate items with less heat.
@@richardgreen7811 AHH! Got ya. Yeah, I have been meaning to try those for a while. You just gave me the nudge I needed o:)
Maybe a double pulley and two belts
That would likely work well but right now its working fine.
The red belt is to long. When they start to wear in , take out a link. They are designed to drive Conveyer belts to haul loads. I have them on my wood and metal lathes.
I like link belts but this one did not grip as well as a standard notched v belt
Can you take the 1/2 link out of the chain? looks too long to me
Yes, and I did. I had to order it.
Maybe replace the v-belt and pulleys with chain and sprockets? Otherwise, great video Winky!
I think a multi-groove pulley or a timing belt. But the belt slipping isn't really a problem with more tension.