I have that exact saw. I think they are referred to as the “Snowflake” model. I put a thread mill motor and controller on it so I can cut both wood and metal. I also fabricated new upper and lower blade guides using roller blade bearings. Mine was in nice shape too but I did put new tires on it. I inspected the bearings but they were in good shape, but I did notice they were metric which I thought was interesting. I put a high quality German made blade on it and use it mostly for cutting metal. I absolutely love it and use it all the time.
Hi Winky, I remember when I was a little Boy back in the early 60s. My Mom and Dad would take me, my Two Brothers and my Sister looking for Antiques. I hated it and couldn’t see why they wanted all that old stuff. Now I Love Antiques. I Love the Old Machines and the Old 1800s Firearms. I just Marvel at the precise fitting of Machined Parts, and the Craftsmanship they were able to do. When you think about what they had back then to work with, I’m just Amazed. I’m glad you are Restoring the Old Bandsaw. It will probably outlast anything you can Buy Today. They were Built to last Generations back then. That Old Saw will probably outlast all of us. Great Job on making the Parts for it.👍👍❤️
Thanks... yes, I am also very amazes with the quality of some of the older machines. The only machine I ever restored that was not very good was my camel back drill press. All others are top notch. My wells index mill is about as precise as you can get and the Avey drill press is equally well made. I seriously don't know how the did it without CNC... not even DROs!
Yes, I know how they did it, I saw it myself they had a very secret ingredient which they use to put in these machines, LOVE AND HONEST WORK, this ingredient is no more found all deposits have gone dry, no more. 😢
@@tayyabsafdar7069 Yep, money before pride. China and greed created massive income disparity. In many cases the need to survive eliminates the pride. Here in the USA we have a "more is better" mentality. Not everyone of course but it doesn't take many to get the ball rolling. SHORT STORY. I used to have a neighbor that was just an average guy. His step dad was the post master. One day his step dad drove up in his Cadillac sporting a bumper sticker that said, "Vote for Doug Isenberg". Well it just so happened that Doug built the home's his step son and I lived it. Outwardly they looked okay but they cut corners drastically in very important areas. Like the foundation was a puddle of concrete. Current code states 2 feet deep in this area but this was only 3 inches thick and maybe 4 inches deep. Just enough to start laying blocks on. Well, being very outspoken I told the post master "this guy is not a person to we need in public office" an explained why. His reply has stayed with me for 40 years, and what he said still applies today. He said, "Mark, you need to understand, these houses were a business, he needed to make profit" I said, "You mean to tell me it's okay to build a substandard home and deceive the buyers in the name of profit? He said, "ABSOLUTLY" He was standing in my backyard and I told him to get the fuck off my property" Profit is KING and more profit is better. Fairness and value don't even enter the picture for most large business.
Another machine being brought back to life with Winky Magic. It's good to see the Winky machine blue paint back in action. Looking forward to the next episode.
Years ago, while on vacation, I found a 25:1 gearbox at an indoor flea market that I wanted to convert my bandsaw to cut metal. I carried it on the airplane in a plastic gift bag and at about 30lbs, it would have gone overweight in my luggage. I had to act like it didn't weigh anything and set it between my feet under the seat in front of me. I wrapped it up good but that gearcase oil smell is pretty strong. I thought it was the best thing that happened to me on the whole vacation at the time.
Hi Mark. The Craftsman bandsaw looks beautiful compared to the modern aluminium and sheet metal junk. A machine shop full of restored quality old machines is the way to go. Excellent restoration, well done. 👏👏👍😀
Quite a solid machine,Mark.A few years ago I offered 50 euros for this small band saw that was sitting there in the store and was missing parts and they took it.Then it took me several months and more than an extra 100 euros to put it together.I gave it to a good friend that gave it to his nefew that was going to school to learn how to make furnature.The last thing he told me was that his nefew found a good job.So well.Thank you.
Glad to see the bandsaw being cleaned and refurbished and given a new life. They do not make them like that any more. Let me know if you want a small chuck of lignum vitae to make dowels for the lower guide. The natural oils in this wood have been used for bearings for centuries. I recently cut some into 1/2in square short lengths for a local friend to use at the lateral guide blocks in her Jet woodworking bandsaw. Dave.
I have a 1932 Craftsman band saw owned by my grandfather and later my father. It works great. Only had the rubber tires replaced once (by me) in all of that time. I think the blade on it is original. It also has a full metal lower blade guide and not a random piece of wood stuck in the blade guide holder. Your upper blade guide is completely missing as well.
The upper was all there aside from the thrust bearing which I made in this video. From all the pictures I have found of the lower guide it was originally a steel dowel but I made a new one with bearings that will be in a follow up video.
Hi there Mark, that is a beautiful machine, nice find.!, that would look very Amazing in that dark /Burgundy Red that you have used in the past. Love that color. But what ever you paint it , it will look beautiful as always
You are exactly right that dark Burgundy he used on the belt sander would look amazingly good on that saw with all the cut outs around the blade wheels.
such a machine is priceless in an amateur,s shop. very good cosmetic job for sure that such an old machine will need mecganical components as bearings , belts, etc... very good job.
Mark I love it. Walker Turner made one that I have always wanted. Cast iron blade guards. Very ornamental. All of them I have seen are for wood and would need to be geared down.
My opinion belt drive would be much quieter and better. I have a Belt drive mill and a gear drive mill, and the noise is remarkably quieter and smoother than the gear drive and it also has VFD for speed control. Its already a sweet looking saw and I am sure it will be top shelf when you finish the project as your work is always of great craftsmanship. @@WinkysWorkshop
4140 H.T./P.H. is about 28-32 Rc hardness. It makes great cutting tool holders. Its much stronger, wear resistant, and cuts with a nice finish using carbide tooling. I made many tool holding arbors out of it. Good Stuff! F.Y.I.- Nothing worse than ice in your hose!
Just recently found and subscribed to your channel. Looking forward to seeing how it turns out in part 2. Have a Jesus filled day everyone Greg in Michigan
Nice ! I did the same thing with my blade guide,but I was lazy and used a valve from an old dieselmotor.Hard as a koffernail,but I could cut it with cbn.
Interesting project. Never saw a bandsaw like that one before. I used a 135 rpm Dayton gear motor to slow my Delta 14 down for metal cutting but still needed three/one reduction to cut tool steel. I’d try a hardwood or Delrin dowel for that lower guide. Rigidity will be an issue for metal.
I have a 20" Cresant bandsaw,heavy,the motor runs 850 R P M's it's 1HP the motor is heavy 😅 it weighs 100 lbs. The lower wheel is mounted to the motor it's got at least a 1 inch shaft.I cleaned it up repainted it and it worked great.
Nice score. I'm eager to see where you go with this project. I have a Delta 14" woodcutting saw. I do little in wood, so it took up floor space, largely unused for thirty years. At long last I did a metal cutting conversion. My 4x6 H/V saw has served me well, but it's really nice to have a proper vertical saw now. I use it a lot. You'll really enjoy yours.
How did you slow your Delta 14” saw down? I have the same saw and have thought about getting a one horse 3 phase motor and a VFD for it so I could use it for both metal and wood.
@@Hoaxer51 After pondering several methods, I wound up at a two-step V-belt reduction to get from wood speed to metal speed, and a 3-Ø motor and VFD to get a range of metal speeds, from about 80FPM @ 20Hz for tough steel to 400FPM @100Hz for aluminum. I don't think you can get enough range for both metal and wood from a VFD. You'd have to run it from about 15Hz for steel to 400Hz for wood. Seems risky to subject a motor to that. But the wheel shaft is long enough to fit both the original pulley, and a large one for reduced speed. So for the rare times I want to cut wood, I remove the two short belts, swing the countershaft out of the way, and put the original long belt back on. (My saw has its motor on a shelf near the bottom of the legs, and I put it on a tilting motor board, so I can adjust for belt length and tension.) Not as elegant as flipping a lever or two, but it's easy and takes only a minute.
@@randyshoquist7726, Thanks for the reply, it seems nothing is ever easy, does it. I keep looking around to see if I can find another bandsaw for a good price but nobody seems to be giving them away, so that’s probably the way I’ll end up doing mine also.
Oh man!! I have been looking for a Walker Turner unit of similar size. To go with my WT drill press... I just love the look of it. I might need to open my search and see if one this Craftsman units is available locally. Following this restoration series!!
A couple of pillow blocks and a jackshaft maybe with a large pulley should slow it down enough. You see a double pulley every now and then with a small one and a large one, but I looked and didn't see anything even used on ebay (kinda reminds me of a cement mixer).
I’m missing the end of one of my fingers because when I was 4 years old I got it in a spinning motor a lot like that band saw. Keep little kids away from those things when they are running.
I have a Jet table saw with a motor mount that looks very similar. Last year I had to replace the mount because of metal fatigue and it BENT close to the pivot point. I was lucky that I was able to find a replacement. Perhaps the homemade mount you found was simply someone's attempt to fix a bracket that failed similarly. Most homemade stuff looks like crap, but I bet you can do better.
That's a nice little saw Mark. I'm wondering if that lower blade guide is a phenolic/linen composite. I bought some square guides for a similar sized saw called "Cool Blocks". They were a phenolic/linen impregnated with graphite.
Thanks, It might be but it looks like plastic. I think the original was steel from the pictures I've seen. I just made one with bearings so problem solved. I was worried about using it with metal and that original guide.
Nice find Mark. She will make a great user. On a side note, the audio on your video is great. The lathe still has its note but it didn't overpower the audience. Not giving commentary while the lathe was working also helped. Looking forward to part 2, and seeing it in action in future videos
The official temperature in Geraldton Australia was 49.7C, about 121F, last week (and a fair bit hotter in my workshop). Maybe you could send us a little of that cold 😅
Dunlap didn’t come about until 1941 so doubt it was the original. if you are interested those motors did have a date code of something like MW YY. Where M was a letter showing the month (A = Jan, W is week of month and YY is year). Should be stamped and not printed on tag
Great resto job, love old tools especially when someone like you takes the time to do a great job on them. Just one question, why didn’t you use a self etching primer or a high build primer?
That's a good question and I actually considered putting it on my video but i was afraid it would ignite a lot of disagreement. First, laziness (ha) but second, the saw was not originally a smooth finish and I thought it might make it look too new plus the casings are all excellent anyway. As for the self etching primer, I have had terrible luck getting some paint to stick to it and I've never figures out if it was the primer or the top coat. In the case of my Hardinge lathe cabinet I had terrible luck with the primer not bonding to the base paint. Overall I've had excellent results with the paint directly on the metal of even slightly rusted and cleaned surfaces. The hardinge Lathe itself I used filler an automotive primer and it did well.
If you used a vfd and one of those 3/4hp, 1150rpm motors, I calculate you could drive it with a 1.75" motor pulley and a 10.75" drive wheel pulley (no gearbox) that would give you 100-600 sfpm blade speed and a cutting force of 40lbs (dragging the blade thru the metal) which would work for steel and aluminum.
It wouldn't look original (ha, you could paint it to look like the old one) or maybe just hide all the reduction stuff in the base. Any idea what speed you plan to shoot for? I've got lots of pulleys if you give me an idea of something you're looking for. That's a neat little saw. @Workshop
@@robert574 100 SFPM is what is needed for steel. For a 12" wheel on a bandsaw that is 33 rpm. Here's a sneak peak the video coming out next week. photos.app.goo.gl/ni5kTjPLeCeu98wX7
I'm all for safety but you can go too far. I think it's partly driven by lawyers and lawsuits. I used to work on printing and in the late 70's I begged them to put several guards in place and they refused. This was massive machinery that could pull a hand or arm off faster than you could blink. Then in about 1990 (aprox.)they went ape sh.. crazy with guards. OSHA changed the laws where if the company did not guard the machines to their standards they would be fined and held 100% accountable if there was an injury. At first I though, well this is a good thing but soon you could not see, make adjustments and even run the machines. It was crazy! Even more crazy is that acidents went up and then went back to where they were.... they never really improved!
I try to finde those old mashinery to restore myself. But somehow I can‘t find any. Onetime I found one at an auction, but it was so expensive, that I did not buy.
It seems like I have to drive several hundred miles whenever I find one. This one was only 48 miles away.... maybe a little high priced but it was all there and in good shape. The tires and the thrust bearing was the only small issue.
Mark, you need to build a little lazy Susan for your spray booth, it would make turning your parts easier when you’re painting them. Maybe get a video out of it. Lol
Hello Winky, I can not wait for the next video, can it cut metal and what throat size is it? It is in good hands for a complete make over. Cheers from me. 😷👍👍👍👍👍
@@magicbytes3835 A speed control would require a motor change. I'm probably crazy but I'm going to keep the old motor and do it with belts and maybe a chain drive.
Hi Winky, I just bought a Craftsman 1936-1938 model 102.01121 12" Bandsaw to restore. I have so many questions... First of all, it appears to be complete with no missing parts and aside from dirt and grime, looks in good shape. First off, I need tires. The ones on it seem original and dry rotted. The wheels are flat. Where do you recommend finding tires? I found the original owner's manual online but surprisingly doesn't list blade size or tire size. Secondly, what paint and color did you use? This one seems to be the same color. I love your videos! Thanks Bob
I got the paint for $2 a can at a discount store. Its Satin Krylon Fusion Peacock Blue. It one of those colors that looks boring in the can but fantastic when you use it. I went back and got 6 more cans! My saw came with over sizes polyurethane tires. I shortened them and they work okay but I think glue on rubber is better. I crowned mine on the mill, kind of a bad way to do it but it worked. Google the tires but be sure you get one for a 12 inch wheel. Lots of 12 inch saws are 12.5" so they actually cut 12 inch.
@@jackodog13 I looked and looked... no luck on the tires. I'd buy these and try to grind the crown like I did. www.woodcraft.com/products/carter-products-urethane-tire-for-12-bandsaw-7-8-wide?variant=43401117139082&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwnv-vBhBdEiwABCYQA8Cfi_mlu5JbzkHCV0pfh-fA0Eo6L28EcPKZ9rrNgXvNppMoQCru2hoCoXMQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds#product-details
Well this is just a theory but I could be wrong. I think Craftsman used the same Dunlap motor on many tools. I've seen this on table saws (although a larger motor and drill presses. The examples I just mentioned had shaft covers over the unused end so it's possible this motor on the bandsaw was added later, hard to say. I'm going to utilize the other end with a speed reducer.
I have some but not many. I have several hub kits a couple pulley sets and a pair of 3 inch brass tinted balls. NO sectors (having a hard time getting tape). I just order two rolls of another brand but so far only Tape Master has proven to work well with the sector punch. They said January 1st but still nothing. Here's a link to what I have. Prices have gone through the roof so I doubt I'll offer kits. markq6zlmc.fws.store/browse/cat7671237_4804850.aspx
I have that exact saw. I think they are referred to as the “Snowflake” model. I put a thread mill motor and controller on it so I can cut both wood and metal. I also fabricated new upper and lower blade guides using roller blade bearings. Mine was in nice shape too but I did put new tires on it. I inspected the bearings but they were in good shape, but I did notice they were metric which I thought was interesting. I put a high quality German made blade on it and use it mostly for cutting metal. I absolutely love it and use it all the time.
Cool... my upper guide works well but I may replace the lower. Yeah, this is a nice saw.
Hi Winky, I remember when I was a little Boy back in the early 60s. My Mom and Dad would take me, my Two Brothers and my Sister looking for Antiques. I hated it and couldn’t see why they wanted all that old stuff. Now I Love Antiques. I Love the Old Machines and the Old 1800s Firearms. I just Marvel at the precise fitting of Machined Parts, and the Craftsmanship they were able to do. When you think about what they had back then to work with, I’m just Amazed. I’m glad you are Restoring the Old Bandsaw. It will probably outlast anything you can Buy Today. They were Built to last Generations back then. That Old Saw will probably outlast all of us. Great Job on making the Parts for it.👍👍❤️
Thanks... yes, I am also very amazes with the quality of some of the older machines. The only machine I ever restored that was not very good was my camel back drill press. All others are top notch. My wells index mill is about as precise as you can get and the Avey drill press is equally well made. I seriously don't know how the did it without CNC... not even DROs!
Yes, I know how they did it, I saw it myself they had a very secret ingredient which they use to put in these machines, LOVE AND HONEST WORK, this ingredient is no more found all deposits have gone dry, no more. 😢
@@tayyabsafdar7069 Yep, money before pride. China and greed created massive income disparity. In many cases the need to survive eliminates the pride. Here in the USA we have a "more is better" mentality. Not everyone of course but it doesn't take many to get the ball rolling. SHORT STORY. I used to have a neighbor that was just an average guy. His step dad was the post master. One day his step dad drove up in his Cadillac sporting a bumper sticker that said, "Vote for Doug Isenberg". Well it just so happened that Doug built the home's his step son and I lived it. Outwardly they looked okay but they cut corners drastically in very important areas. Like the foundation was a puddle of concrete. Current code states 2 feet deep in this area but this was only 3 inches thick and maybe 4 inches deep. Just enough to start laying blocks on. Well, being very outspoken I told the post master "this guy is not a person to we need in public office" an explained why. His reply has stayed with me for 40 years, and what he said still applies today. He said, "Mark, you need to understand, these houses were a business, he needed to make profit" I said, "You mean to tell me it's okay to build a substandard home and deceive the buyers in the name of profit? He said, "ABSOLUTLY" He was standing in my backyard and I told him to get the fuck off my property" Profit is KING and more profit is better. Fairness and value don't even enter the picture for most large business.
Wonderful job on this old bandsaw. Working on a table saw from Sears&Roebuck with a table 11x 13 inches big. It's a joy to renovate these old tools.
Thanks, I agree!
Very nice job there Winky. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Thanks, will do!
Another machine being brought back to life with Winky Magic.
It's good to see the Winky machine blue paint back in action.
Looking forward to the next episode.
Ha... thanks. Yeah, I got a deal on that paint and it happens to be a fairly close match to the original.
Love the styling of these older machines 👍👍
Nice project Mark !
Thanks 👍 I think it looks great too!
Years ago, while on vacation, I found a 25:1 gearbox at an indoor flea market that I wanted to convert my bandsaw to cut metal. I carried it on the airplane in a plastic gift bag and at about 30lbs, it would have gone overweight in my luggage. I had to act like it didn't weigh anything and set it between my feet under the seat in front of me. I wrapped it up good but that gearcase oil smell is pretty strong. I thought it was the best thing that happened to me on the whole vacation at the time.
Part-2 will be posted Friday and then Part-3 a week later. Part-3 will feature a home made slow down... You sound like me with the gearbox
Hi Mark. The Craftsman bandsaw looks beautiful compared to the modern aluminium and sheet metal junk. A machine shop full of restored quality old machines is the way to go. Excellent restoration, well done. 👏👏👍😀
I agree, I have a few new tools (mostly woodworking) but I love to older stuff.
I love the art deco look of the old saw.
Yeah, its a nice style for sure.
Quite a solid machine,Mark.A few years ago I offered 50 euros for this small band saw that was sitting there in the store and was missing parts and they took it.Then it took me several months and more than an extra 100 euros to put it together.I gave it to a good friend that gave it to his nefew that was going to school to learn how to make furnature.The last thing he told me was that his nefew found a good job.So well.Thank you.
Nice gift. I hope it gets good use.
Glad to see the bandsaw being cleaned and refurbished and given a new life. They do not make them like that any more.
Let me know if you want a small chuck of lignum vitae to make dowels for the lower guide. The natural oils in this wood have been used for bearings for centuries. I recently cut some into 1/2in square short lengths for a local friend to use at the lateral guide blocks in her Jet woodworking bandsaw.
Dave.
Hmmm? sounds interesting. winkysworkshop@GMX.com
I have a 1932 Craftsman band saw owned by my grandfather and later my father. It works great. Only had the rubber tires replaced once (by me) in all of that time. I think the blade on it is original. It also has a full metal lower blade guide and not a random piece of wood stuck in the blade guide holder. Your upper blade guide is completely missing as well.
The upper was all there aside from the thrust bearing which I made in this video. From all the pictures I have found of the lower guide it was originally a steel dowel but I made a new one with bearings that will be in a follow up video.
Hi there Mark, that is a beautiful machine, nice find.!, that would look very Amazing in that dark /Burgundy Red that you have used in the past. Love that color. But what ever you paint it , it will look beautiful as always
You are exactly right that dark Burgundy he used on the belt sander would look amazingly good on that saw with all the cut outs around the blade wheels.
I agree... love the read paint. This blue paint is close to original and I got it dirt cheap. I like the blue color but also agree, the red is nice.
Yeah... that was the CBN grinder and also the base for my drill press. I agree, a great color.
such a machine is priceless in an amateur,s shop.
very good cosmetic job
for sure that such an old machine will need mecganical components as bearings , belts, etc...
very good job.
Thanks 👍
Nice machine, well worth restoring. Funny little touches with the dowel blade-guide though! Thanks Mark, looking forward to part 2. Les in UK 🇬🇧
Thanks 👍 I agree... I might upgrade
Mark I love it. Walker Turner made one that I have always wanted. Cast iron blade guards. Very ornamental. All of them I have seen are for wood and would need to be geared down.
Thanks, this one will be "belted down"? Ha
My opinion belt drive would be much quieter and better. I have a Belt drive mill and a gear drive mill, and the noise is remarkably quieter and smoother than the gear drive and it also has VFD for speed control. Its already a sweet looking saw and I am sure it will be top shelf when you finish the project as your work is always of great craftsmanship. @@WinkysWorkshop
4140 H.T./P.H. is about 28-32 Rc hardness. It makes great cutting tool holders. Its much stronger, wear resistant, and cuts with a nice finish using carbide tooling. I made many tool holding arbors out of it. Good Stuff! F.Y.I.- Nothing worse than ice in your hose!
Ha... yep, it was too cold for sure. Good to hear on the 4140. Steel types are my weakness.
Just recently found and subscribed to your channel. Looking forward to seeing how it turns out in part 2.
Have a Jesus filled day everyone Greg in Michigan
Thanks
Nice ! I did the same thing with my blade guide,but I was lazy and used a valve from an old dieselmotor.Hard as a koffernail,but I could cut it with cbn.
Darn good idea on the thrust bearing!
My old Delta had bearings with a OD bushing on them.
What? Not sure what this means
Beautiful piece !
Thanks, I agree
Interesting project. Never saw a bandsaw like that one before. I used a 135 rpm Dayton gear motor to slow my Delta 14 down for metal cutting but still needed three/one reduction to cut tool steel. I’d try a hardwood or Delrin dowel for that lower guide. Rigidity will be an issue for metal.
I'd say you are right about the metal... maybe I'll go all our and build one with bearings. Thanks
What a cool find Mark. Great job bringing it back. 👍🏻
Thanks 👍 I agree, a great find!
I have a 20" Cresant bandsaw,heavy,the motor runs 850 R P M's it's 1HP the motor is heavy 😅 it weighs 100 lbs. The lower wheel is mounted to the motor it's got at least a 1 inch shaft.I cleaned it up repainted it and it worked great.
I'll bet it does! Love the slow motors!
Nice score. I'm eager to see where you go with this project. I have a Delta 14" woodcutting saw. I do little in wood, so it took up floor space, largely unused for thirty years. At long last I did a metal cutting conversion. My 4x6 H/V saw has served me well, but it's really nice to have a proper vertical saw now. I use it a lot. You'll really enjoy yours.
Hopefully my slow down works well. We will see. It will be handy!
How did you slow your Delta 14” saw down? I have the same saw and have thought about getting a one horse 3 phase motor and a VFD for it so I could use it for both metal and wood.
@@Hoaxer51 After pondering several methods, I wound up at a two-step V-belt reduction to get from wood speed to metal speed, and a 3-Ø motor and VFD to get a range of metal speeds, from about 80FPM @ 20Hz for tough steel to 400FPM @100Hz for aluminum. I don't think you can get enough range for both metal and wood from a VFD. You'd have to run it from about 15Hz for steel to 400Hz for wood. Seems risky to subject a motor to that. But the wheel shaft is long enough to fit both the original pulley, and a large one for reduced speed. So for the rare times I want to cut wood, I remove the two short belts, swing the countershaft out of the way, and put the original long belt back on. (My saw has its motor on a shelf near the bottom of the legs, and I put it on a tilting motor board, so I can adjust for belt length and tension.) Not as elegant as flipping a lever or two, but it's easy and takes only a minute.
@@randyshoquist7726, Thanks for the reply, it seems nothing is ever easy, does it. I keep looking around to see if I can find another bandsaw for a good price but nobody seems to be giving them away, so that’s probably the way I’ll end up doing mine also.
Super cool find Mark. The design and all castings are a work of art.
I agree! Love the design plus its built like a tank!
Nice!
Thanks
Oh man!! I have been looking for a Walker Turner unit of similar size. To go with my WT drill press... I just love the look of it. I might need to open my search and see if one this Craftsman units is available locally. Following this restoration series!!
Right on! Aside from the lower blade guide this saw is solid. Very nice.
My old bandsaw has 'Tufnol' blade guides.
I think I'll end up making one with a roller. Steel requires a lot of feed pressure. Thanks
A couple of pillow blocks and a jackshaft maybe with a large pulley should slow it down enough. You see a double pulley every now and then with a small one and a large one, but I looked and didn't see anything even used on ebay (kinda reminds me of a cement mixer).
I built a slow down with flat belts, video in one week.
I’m missing the end of one of my fingers because when I was 4 years old I got it in a spinning motor a lot like that band saw. Keep little kids away from those things when they are running.
Bummer... no kids in my shop.
I have a Jet table saw with a motor mount that looks very similar. Last year I had to replace the mount because of metal fatigue and it BENT close to the pivot point. I was lucky that I was able to find a replacement. Perhaps the homemade mount you found was simply someone's attempt to fix a bracket that failed similarly. Most homemade stuff looks like crap, but I bet you can do better.
I'm making it now... I think you are right. Thanks
Keep on you will have to expand the shop. Did you get the lathe you looked at a few weeks ago?
Hello Gary, no I didn't. It was way too big!
That's a nice little saw Mark. I'm wondering if that lower blade guide is a phenolic/linen composite. I bought some square guides for a similar sized saw called "Cool Blocks". They were a phenolic/linen impregnated with graphite.
Thanks, It might be but it looks like plastic. I think the original was steel from the pictures I've seen. I just made one with bearings so problem solved. I was worried about using it with metal and that original guide.
I also have an old band saw my father used. I am considering an intermediate shaft to slow it down, so interested to see what you do.
Thanks... it takes a LOT of slow down.
Nice find Mark. She will make a great user.
On a side note, the audio on your video is great. The lathe still has its note but it didn't overpower the audience. Not giving commentary while the lathe was working also helped.
Looking forward to part 2, and seeing it in action in future videos
The official temperature in Geraldton Australia was 49.7C, about 121F, last week (and a fair bit hotter in my workshop). Maybe you could send us a little of that cold 😅
I'm exploring a gear hobbing attachment for my mill. If I ever get there new gears for the south bend will be the first thing I do.
WOW! I hope I never see temperatures that high! Thats terrible.
@@WinkysWorkshop, A hobbing attachment, that will be an interesting video, hopefully in the near future.
@@Hoaxer51 I'm getting help with the gear hobber controller.
Dunlap didn’t come about until 1941 so doubt it was the original. if you are interested those motors did have a date code of something like MW YY. Where M was a letter showing the month (A = Jan, W is week of month and YY is year). Should be stamped and not printed on tag
Interesting. You know a lot more than me. Thanks!
Great resto job, love old tools especially when someone like you takes the time to do a great job on them. Just one question, why didn’t you use a self etching primer or a high build primer?
That's a good question and I actually considered putting it on my video but i was afraid it would ignite a lot of disagreement. First, laziness (ha) but second, the saw was not originally a smooth finish and I thought it might make it look too new plus the casings are all excellent anyway. As for the self etching primer, I have had terrible luck getting some paint to stick to it and I've never figures out if it was the primer or the top coat. In the case of my Hardinge lathe cabinet I had terrible luck with the primer not bonding to the base paint. Overall I've had excellent results with the paint directly on the metal of even slightly rusted and cleaned surfaces. The hardinge Lathe itself I used filler an automotive primer and it did well.
If you used a vfd and one of those 3/4hp, 1150rpm motors, I calculate you could drive it with a 1.75" motor pulley and a 10.75" drive wheel pulley (no gearbox) that would give you 100-600 sfpm blade speed and a cutting force of 40lbs (dragging the blade thru the metal) which would work for steel and aluminum.
Yeah... I think the new motor would be an eye sore on the old saw. I'm building a slow down with belts... hopefully it will work!
It wouldn't look original (ha, you could paint it to look like the old one) or maybe just hide all the reduction stuff in the base. Any idea what speed you plan to shoot for? I've got lots of pulleys if you give me an idea of something you're looking for. That's a neat little saw. @Workshop
@@robert574 100 SFPM is what is needed for steel. For a 12" wheel on a bandsaw that is 33 rpm. Here's a sneak peak the video coming out next week. photos.app.goo.gl/ni5kTjPLeCeu98wX7
If you want to use this for metal only, I have an extra 30-1 gearing I picked up at auction. Let me know if you’re interested.
Thanks for the offer but I made a slow down. A video will be posted in a week.
Winky yer awesome, i hope your not going to let that Jewell out of your shop. Me personally, it would be the center piece in my living room
Me too, but the wife has different ideas! Ha
Hi Mr Winky, That saw was made when people had common sense. That's why theres no guards.
I'm all for safety but you can go too far. I think it's partly driven by lawyers and lawsuits. I used to work on printing and in the late 70's I begged them to put several guards in place and they refused. This was massive machinery that could pull a hand or arm off faster than you could blink. Then in about 1990 (aprox.)they went ape sh.. crazy with guards. OSHA changed the laws where if the company did not guard the machines to their standards they would be fined and held 100% accountable if there was an injury. At first I though, well this is a good thing but soon you could not see, make adjustments and even run the machines. It was crazy! Even more crazy is that acidents went up and then went back to where they were.... they never really improved!
Got like #400! How cool is that?! LoL 😂😆
Thank you for the video!!
Yeah, that is cool.
I try to finde those old mashinery to restore myself. But somehow I can‘t find any. Onetime I found one at an auction, but it was so expensive, that I did not buy.
It seems like I have to drive several hundred miles whenever I find one. This one was only 48 miles away.... maybe a little high priced but it was all there and in good shape. The tires and the thrust bearing was the only small issue.
Shes an old beauty. Dont make those no mo
It is nice an solid for sure!
Mark, you need to build a little lazy Susan for your spray booth, it would make turning your parts easier when you’re painting them. Maybe get a video out of it. Lol
First I need a spray booth! Ha. That would be a help for sure!
Hello Winky, I can not wait for the next video, can it cut metal and what throat size is it? It is in good hands for a complete make over. Cheers from me. 😷👍👍👍👍👍
Its a 12 inch but big enough. Wood only right now but I'm going to build a slow down so it will cut metal - thanks
OK, thanks for the reply, will a speed control work?@@WinkysWorkshop
@@magicbytes3835 A speed control would require a motor change. I'm probably crazy but I'm going to keep the old motor and do it with belts and maybe a chain drive.
Sounds good to me, looking forward to seeing it in action. Cheers@@WinkysWorkshop
@@WinkysWorkshop, Will you make it so you can do a quick change back in case you want to use to cut wood?
good job on that little machine. BUT I DO NOT SEE THE WORK OF THE TAPE GUIDE WITH VERY CERTAINTY. OTHERWISE PERFECT
Haha... thanks!
Hi Winky, I just bought a Craftsman 1936-1938 model 102.01121 12" Bandsaw to restore. I have so many questions... First of all, it appears to be complete with no missing parts and aside from dirt and grime, looks in good shape. First off, I need tires. The ones on it seem original and dry rotted. The wheels are flat. Where do you recommend finding tires? I found the original owner's manual online but surprisingly doesn't list blade size or tire size. Secondly, what paint and color did you use? This one seems to be the same color. I love your videos! Thanks Bob
I got the paint for $2 a can at a discount store. Its Satin Krylon Fusion Peacock Blue. It one of those colors that looks boring in the can but fantastic when you use it. I went back and got 6 more cans! My saw came with over sizes polyurethane tires. I shortened them and they work okay but I think glue on rubber is better. I crowned mine on the mill, kind of a bad way to do it but it worked. Google the tires but be sure you get one for a 12 inch wheel. Lots of 12 inch saws are 12.5" so they actually cut 12 inch.
Any recommendations of a tire company? Also, I dont know what size blade this thing has. Can't find info on the web (yet).@@WinkysWorkshop
@@jackodog13 I looked and looked... no luck on the tires. I'd buy these and try to grind the crown like I did. www.woodcraft.com/products/carter-products-urethane-tire-for-12-bandsaw-7-8-wide?variant=43401117139082&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwnv-vBhBdEiwABCYQA8Cfi_mlu5JbzkHCV0pfh-fA0Eo6L28EcPKZ9rrNgXvNppMoQCru2hoCoXMQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds#product-details
I order from here. 6 ft 7 inch www.bandsawbladewarehouse.com/@@jackodog13
@@WinkysWorkshop Thanks so much for the info! If I sent you the table insert from this saw, could I pay you make a new one for me?
Why is the motor dual shaft? Whats the extra shaft for?
Well this is just a theory but I could be wrong. I think Craftsman used the same Dunlap motor on many tools. I've seen this on table saws (although a larger motor and drill presses. The examples I just mentioned had shaft covers over the unused end so it's possible this motor on the bandsaw was added later, hard to say. I'm going to utilize the other end with a speed reducer.
@@WinkysWorkshop I have an early-50s Craftsman table saw with a double ended motor. I need to make a cover for the unused end.
@@randyshoquist7726 I've seen those covers. I plan to utilize the shaft for the slow down for metal.
Hey wait, that's my bandsaw - I want it back!! How's it going Mark? I'm still waiting on info for the lathe.
Haha... Hello Shown!
hi do you still sell parts for the Wimshurst Machine ?
I have some but not many. I have several hub kits a couple pulley sets and a pair of 3 inch brass tinted balls. NO sectors (having a hard time getting tape). I just order two rolls of another brand but so far only Tape Master has proven to work well with the sector punch. They said January 1st but still nothing. Here's a link to what I have. Prices have gone through the roof so I doubt I'll offer kits. markq6zlmc.fws.store/browse/cat7671237_4804850.aspx
thank you