Mark, when I was rebuilding my saw, and slowing it for Metal work, Both the parts guys at King Canada, and Busy Bee Tools told me that I don't need the roller bearing blade guides, and that the next best thing for high speed wood blades is South American Ironwood Blocks (Very hard, very oily wood.) I made a set out of Hardwood Flooring and a Vacuum Mason Jar Sealer & Mineral Oil. 3 years later they are still in use...
I have several machines that I swapped in DC motors along with a 60 amp diode bridge & run them on a variac to change speeds. Simple, cheap, effective & I've never had a problem with them. You electrical guys can berate me for what I'm doing wrong. Good job on the saw "Winky".
Great job saving a piece of history Winky. Looks great. I have converted one of these older wood saws for metal before, ended up using a reducer gearbox to get the slow speed I wanted. Looking forward to part 3!
Great video, Mark. I always love watching your projects come to life. I have an old Taiwanese 14" Wood Bandsaw that I converted to cut steel. I used a 90 degree reducing gearbox with a "C" face motor mount. The reduction ratio is 11 to 1 and that worked out just right. I used a chain drive to get from the gearbox to the Bandsaw input shaft and that eliminates belt slippage! Keep up the great videos! John
Mark, get a measurement on the length of blade, and if is to a standard of some sort, make new pins for the adjustment of top wheel. You have the room below top arm for them to extend down further. Looks really good!
With a standard blade the wheel hits the guard and there isn't enough travel to get to the next size smaller. I did find a blade for it but they are not common. I paid maybe $5 more than if I ordered a standard blade on Amazon so no problem.
It's really turning out nice. The flat belt drive will be interesting, there's no reason it shouldn't work. I had been thinking a timing belt or even a 3/8" wide v-belt that would allow you to use some small dia pulleys and thought about joining two pulleys (one small, one large) keyed on a steel keyed collar (like the shaft reducer sleeve you had) then a bushing in it, but it still needs a shaft so it might as well just be a jackshaft with two simple pillow blocks. The teeth could be turned off of some timing pulleys and crown them for the belt if there are some wide enough. Lot's of possibilities. The belts are going to look cool.
This video is a week old, I painted the slowdown and put a spacer between the uprights to make is more ridged. The bearing alignment wasn't the best without the spacer. I was worried about the belt slipping on the small pullies but now I dont think this will ever be an issue.
Hello Winky, gee this video went fast 12:55 mins long, you did a really good job restoring the band saw, nice paint job, sounds so quiet too, thanks for sharing with us viewers much appreciated. Cheers from me. 😷👍👍👍👍👍
It's hard to believe that in ninety years nobody's beat it up trying to fix it. If that is a of the shelf blade length and you don't have any tracking problems from the top wheel mount sitting on the high side run with it. Looking forward to see what you come up with for the gear reduction.
@@andyZ3500s Yeah... you can even buy a roll of bandsaw stock and make your own blade but you need a special welder. We had a bandsaw at work that had a built in welder. It worked great but there was a learning curve.
@@WinkysWorkshop I am familiar with the blade welders but I have never used one. As I remember one has to purchase 100 ' of blade. Sounds like alot but probably a lot cheaper by the foot. I wonder if there is anyone out there who sell sorter lengths. That way a homeshop guy could buy 50' of one blade and 50' of another. I have seen guys make up jigs and solder the blades but you would have to find someone who can do that type of work- lol. I am looking forward to seeing your speed reduction. Just think how many old machines that would still be around if it wasn't for the second WW. See you later Winky.
I've only changed it twice in the 40 years but the last time was 4 or 5 years ago and I used Synthetic Compressor oil. I bought it at Autozone. Looked about like 20 w to me.
Nice job. Love the looks of the old Tools! They had Style! Can you tell me the PAINT COLOR and Mfg. Where can I aquire it? Thanks ...Newk from Kentucky
@@WinkysWorkshop a similar color, the one I used for my Walker Turner drill press, Krylon Anvil Gray... also a great match for the Logan lathe original color...
@@WinkysWorkshop Thanks bunch...I'm looking for a color for my 1949 International Harvester L130 pickup Cab and bed. Love your channel! I also have a Catersct Cataract Lathe - - - to be restored, BUT need to find a Head and Chuck. If you know of any parts PLS. let me know. .....Newk from Kentucky
Nice work Mark. It cuts like a dream.
Hopefully slippage isn't an issue with metal. Thanks
Very good, works like a new one but looks ten times cooler.
Glad you like it, Thanks
Good progress. As you said, runs quiet and smooth. Nice.
Dave.
Thanks 👍
That is a nice band saw and you did a great job on it. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Thanks Harold 👍
Its so nice to see you work in the well organized clean shop. Awesome band saw restoration. 🫵🏼💯🆒
Sometimes organized... Ha. Thanks
I hope to see the old saw cut metal.💯🆒👍
I have a newer 12” Craftsman bandsaw I converted it to metal cutting by using a jackshaft system. It works well for me
Cool. I made a slow down with flat belts. It works very well, video next week.
What a great save, now it can see service all the way to its 100 year old mark.
I think you are right, Thanks!
Thanks for the video they are alway a good way to start the day.
Glad you like them! Thanks!
Very cool Mark. Well done. 👍🏻
Thanks 👍
That came out great!! And you are going to make it work for cutting metal as well, great!!
That's the plan! Thanks. The slow down is finished now and it came out great. Video on the way.
you done an excellent job on that machine.
very good
Thank you very much!
We share the same obsession! Saving old iron! Good job!!👍🏻
Yes I love it! Your lathe is beautiful.
@@WinkysWorkshop thanks almost finished with a 24 inch Cincinnati shaper my current project
@@donmadere4237 Need some video! Hey, didn't you and another guy have a channel?
Mark, when I was rebuilding my saw, and slowing it for Metal work, Both the parts guys at King Canada, and Busy Bee Tools told me that I don't need the roller bearing blade guides, and that the next best thing for high speed wood blades is South American Ironwood Blocks (Very hard, very oily wood.) I made a set out of Hardwood Flooring and a Vacuum Mason Jar Sealer & Mineral Oil. 3 years later they are still in use...
BlacknDelrin impregnated with Teflon works very well also.
Very cool! I'll bet that works well.
Great work,Mark.Thank you.
Very welcome, thanks for watching
That's a beauty.
Thanks, I agree, lots of style.
I have several machines that I swapped in DC motors along with a 60 amp diode bridge & run them on a variac to change speeds. Simple, cheap, effective & I've never had a problem with them. You electrical guys can berate me for what I'm doing wrong. Good job on the saw "Winky".
If it has good enough torque at low speed, you can't beat it.
Whatever works! In this case I wanted to used the original motor. I made a slow down with flat belts and pulleys and it works great. Video on the way.
Great job Winky looks good. My 14” Wilton bandsaw only has 13.5” wheels.
Thanks, This one is 12 and has 12 inch wheels. My newer craftsman is also 12 and has 12-1/2"
Very nice restoration, it’s looks awesome. Aaron from Canada
Thanks Aaron.
Looks good Winky.
Thanks!
I'm jealous as hell !!!
Ha... sorry.
Really enjoyed your video
Glad you enjoyed it
Great job saving a piece of history Winky. Looks great. I have converted one of these older wood saws for metal before, ended up using a reducer gearbox to get the slow speed I wanted. Looking forward to part 3!
Thanks, in the the next video I will have a slow down on the saw. Hopefully it will work well.
Well done.
Thanks
Great video, Mark. I always love watching your projects come to life. I have an old Taiwanese 14" Wood Bandsaw that I converted to cut steel. I used a 90 degree reducing gearbox with a "C" face motor mount. The reduction ratio is 11 to 1 and that worked out just right. I used a chain drive to get from the gearbox to the Bandsaw input shaft and that eliminates belt slippage! Keep up the great videos!
John
Very cool! A chain would be fine for metal but wood would be too fast.
Mark, get a measurement on the length of blade, and if is to a standard of some sort, make new pins for the adjustment of top wheel. You have the room below top arm for them to extend down further. Looks really good!
With a standard blade the wheel hits the guard and there isn't enough travel to get to the next size smaller. I did find a blade for it but they are not common. I paid maybe $5 more than if I ordered a standard blade on Amazon so no problem.
It's really turning out nice. The flat belt drive will be interesting, there's no reason it shouldn't work. I had been thinking a timing belt or even a 3/8" wide v-belt that would allow you to use some small dia pulleys and thought about joining two pulleys (one small, one large) keyed on a steel keyed collar (like the shaft reducer sleeve you had) then a bushing in it, but it still needs a shaft so it might as well just be a jackshaft with two simple pillow blocks. The teeth could be turned off of some timing pulleys and crown them for the belt if there are some wide enough. Lot's of possibilities. The belts are going to look cool.
This video is a week old, I painted the slowdown and put a spacer between the uprights to make is more ridged. The bearing alignment wasn't the best without the spacer. I was worried about the belt slipping on the small pullies but now I dont think this will ever be an issue.
Can't wait to see it. It must have been hard to come up with the pulleys.
Recall that "MrPete" did at least a couple of videos, re-powering a bandsaw! That is a beautiful machine!
I saw one of his with the slow down.
Hello Winky, gee this video went fast 12:55 mins long, you did a really good job restoring the band saw, nice paint job, sounds so quiet too, thanks for sharing with us viewers much appreciated. Cheers from me. 😷👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks 👍 Next weeks video is longer
Cool look forward to it...@@WinkysWorkshop
👍👍
THANKS
Hi Mark. The Craftsman is sure looking good. Well done on such a good sympathetic restoration. 👏👏👍😀
Thanks 👍
Paint pens work great for lettering.
Sometimes... but it depends on who the operator is.
I crowned my wheels,new tires,I cemented them to the cast iron and as you said I crowned the wheels.It runs quietly.
I didn't glue mine.... so far they are staying put but when cutting metal they might move. If so I'll glue them.
Check out the video Adam Booth did on how to paint lettering on a vise restoration he did. It works great.
Since making this video I just did it again and it turned out well. However, I'll check out Adam's video for future reference. Thanks
Just watched it.. I think my method is better. But thanks anyway
UN TRABAJO PERFECTO AMIGO YO HABIA PUESTO UNA PROTECCION AL MOTOR
You will like next weeks video :o)
Good old “Made in America “
I like it…. very much….you have to…..
Haha... yes... two? I'll will likely sell the 1970 saw.
It's hard to believe that in ninety years nobody's beat it up trying to fix it. If that is a of the shelf blade length and you don't have any tracking problems from the top wheel mount sitting on the high side run with it. Looking forward to see what you come up with for the gear reduction.
It's in great shape, the blade tracks well although its a odd size. Still not hard to find.
@@WinkysWorkshop that's great that you can purchase blades that fit it.
@@andyZ3500s Yeah... you can even buy a roll of bandsaw stock and make your own blade but you need a special welder. We had a bandsaw at work that had a built in welder. It worked great but there was a learning curve.
@@WinkysWorkshop I am familiar with the blade welders but I have never used one. As I remember one has to purchase 100 ' of blade. Sounds like alot but probably a lot cheaper by the foot. I wonder if there is anyone out there who sell sorter lengths. That way a homeshop guy could buy 50' of one blade and 50' of another.
I have seen guys make up jigs and solder the blades but you would have to find someone who can do that type of work- lol.
I am looking forward to seeing your speed reduction. Just think how many old machines that would still be around if it wasn't for the second WW. See you later Winky.
Winky, I have the same air compressor. I don't have the manual for it. What motor oil do you use when you change it? Thanks for making these videos.
I've only changed it twice in the 40 years but the last time was 4 or 5 years ago and I used Synthetic Compressor oil. I bought it at Autozone. Looked about like 20 w to me.
@@WinkysWorkshop thank you sir!
@@jameszaccardo1520 no problem.
I would try frezzing the wheels , then machine them ....
Interesting, that probably would have helped
Nice job. Love the looks of the old Tools! They had Style! Can you tell me the PAINT COLOR and Mfg. Where can I aquire it? Thanks
...Newk from Kentucky
Thanks, I got that paint from The Mighty Dollar store for $2 a can. I think its Kylon Peacock Blue
@@WinkysWorkshop a similar color, the one I used for my Walker Turner drill press, Krylon Anvil Gray... also a great match for the Logan lathe original color...
@@WinkysWorkshop Thanks bunch...I'm looking for a color for my 1949 International Harvester L130 pickup Cab and bed. Love your channel!
I also have a Catersct
Cataract Lathe - - - to be restored, BUT need to find a Head and Chuck. If you know of any parts PLS. let me know.
.....Newk from Kentucky
@@timothynewkirk2654 Sorry, no idea where to find parts for the Cataract
@@Wachuko-1 I'll have to keep that color in mind, thanks
Try phenolic rod.
That would likely be a good choice but I've now made one with bearings. Thanks
Even better choice 👍
DOUBT ... After watching the channel all this time, there's "no doubt" in my mind that your wife shaves the inside of your ears for video presence.