Piece by piece description of PID components (all you need)
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- čas přidán 17. 09. 2017
- This is a list and explanation of all the parts for your PID. You can google search all of these or purchase some locally at your Lowes or Home Depot.
I use the MYPIN TA4 SSR controller.
You will need a box - the one in the video was ordered through MCM electronics.
You will also need the following:
A Fotek 25DA Solid State Relay (SSR)
A heat sink for the SSR
K-type Thermo couple (probe with 2 wires to sense temperature)
20 Amp 120Volt switch (Lowes or Home Depot)
20 Amp 120Volt receptacle (Lowes or Home Depot)
Some 14AWG wire to wire the circuit
Optional 16 AWG wire for signaling and power for the PID
A means to cutout holes in your project box (dremmel tool is great)
Some basic tools like screw driver, needle-nose pliers, wire stripper, some electrical connectors (forked type).
A little patience and the review of these videos.
Good luck and have fun.
Glad your back missed your educational videos I learned a lot
Mr. George, you are a wealth of information. Great instructional videos. Please keep them coming.
mr George thanks! your explanations of these circuits are smart intuitive and have given me confidence that I can wire this without burning down my house
Always great practical applied education. You do a great job and I'm looking forward to following along as you go all the way to a multi-PID 240 v 30 amp controller.
Glad to hear that. It's coming soon. I am working on it now.
It's working George 👍 great video
Great. Good to hear from you Charlie - keep it up. George
Thanks for the great info. Semper Fi.
Thank you George!
Good Stuff George ! Thanks 👍
No problem 👍
Thanks George
Amazing
I wrote that question when I wasn’t sure about wiring the CH’s in parallel. I got it now.
I ordered one of these from Wish.com for $14. Took about 3 weeks to get it. Mine has the same part number except mine ends in "DA" rather than "AN". These will display both C and F. Type in the part number on a search bar, rex-c100fk02-v*DA, or in this case AN, and pdf manuals will be in list. C and F are located in the second setup screen, engineering settings.
My Rex also has F / C settings on it.👍
well explained.
is there something special i have to set on my PID controller like cycle times or hysteresis, when using zero crossing SSR's to switch a heater? thanks
Hi, can this PID be used with the Still Spirits water controller? I find the screw on the Still Spirits water control should have had a fine threaded screw to allow for finer adjustments. Basically just touching the screw can throw it into chasing the temp up and down until you can get it to settle again. Thanks
Cool points! Lol
Where would I place the Thermo couple, inside the distilant or in the condenser and at what temp
I have noticed that many people get the positive and negative messed up. Can you tell me which color is positive? My ink bird controller actually has a blue and red colors on the screws. Also the inkbird uses 3-4 to hook the coupler up instead of 4-5. Correct?
is the solo 4848-cr a good controller? i'm trying to use it on my gasifacation wood boiler
Thanks George for your informative vids. I would like to know if DC12 volts can be used with for the source of power and then power out with DC voltage? thanks, Ron.
Please be more specific.
I will do what I can to help
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing Which pid and ssr do I need to power off my truck battery that will heat a 120 ac volt band heater (which needs to heat up to 230 celsius) and vaporize a chemical (oxalic acid) to treat my honey bees and will kill the mites inside the bee hives. I don't know if a heater band comes in 12 volt DC. I can us a generator, but the pid would be a lot cheaper. Hope you can help and advise what I need to build this tool. Thanks for your help and I enjoy all your interesting videos. Ron.
can you do a specific video for aplying this to a t500 still or any water cooled reflux still
This will work on any reflux still. I would use caution on the T500. The T500 is designed to regulate output via temperature control at the discharge point for cooling water in the column. Control of the T500 (by design) is for more precise temp control through water flow control. A PID would work on the T500 but would not really add any much more precision; it could allow you to operate the still at a lower than boil temperature and thus reduce the amount of water flow for cooling.
Will I need multiple pid’s for using 3 cartridge heaters on a 240 circuit or can I wire them together?
Yes, one PID can handle this. See my earlier post about the math and total amperage in the circuit.
George
Hi, great video, im havi g problems with 2 pid, one is the rex c100 and this one does not sense the rigjt temperature, it has a type k termocuple.
The other one i bought it a maxwell and it does not turn on the heating element, the relay works, i think its well wired becaus with the c 100 it runs,
Its conected on the output as it says on the manual.
Do you now what i can possibly be doing wrong?
I am not familiar with the Maxwell PID. Your rex is the simplest PID available. Maybe the factory settings are off. Read the instructions that came with it and access the settings to make sure all the functions are turned on and set correctly. That is the only think I can think of as to why it is not working correctly.
How about Australian standards and recommended for 3500 watt element
Hey George, how are you connecting the element to the still, is it a element housing of some sort? Could you provide a link if able.. thanks!
The element screws into a ferrule that is welded to the kettle. You could drill a 1.5 inch hole and screw in the element with a retaining nut on the inside. Most still can be ordered with this attachment.
George
George, I have an Ink Bird ITC-100VL, using a SSR-100-DD attempting to make an all DC 12 volt system using glow plug for the heater, it heats up ok but will keep heating past the SET VALUE. I may be trying something impossible, but the system could be used away from an AC supply. What is your advise, just wandering if ITC and SSR are compatible together for this system, thanks, Ron.
They absolutely are. Check your parameter settings to make sure it is in PID mode and your setting are correct.
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing Was not in PID mode, thanks much, Ron.
George, I got the relay PID instead of the SSR? My controller is missing #5 pin. I want to use a 300watt mold heat element. I been trying to figure this out, I did get the SSR relay, and the wiring diagram I have needs the #5 pin. I found some other video's and tryied but with no sucesses. I thinking I can not run this 300w element with this Rex-C100FK02-M*AN DN. Its o-400c, 100-240v. Can you help me, I do have anothe r set coming, but it will be a couple weeks yet. I hoping those ones are the ones you show how to hook up, thanks for all your vids.
I did some due diligence and research on this. According to the data sheets for the Rex C100 -400c the data sheet says that pins not used for the function of the model have been removed. So if you need pin 5 and it is not there your PID does not function in the manner you intend it to. Also the output of the relays for your PID are, according to the data sheet, are voltage pulse outputs at 12V DC power. You cannot run a heater element on that.
Now, you said you are using a 300W element. Are you sure it is 300W or is it 3000W? This makes a big difference unless this process is very, very small.
I think you'l need to wait for your new PID to arrive.
Hope this helps
George
Thank you for your reply.Anything , everything helps. Yes I am using a 300 watt. I do have a SSR, it did come with the PID , and was going to try to hook it up. The 12 v going to the relay with is a 120V? I going to try to use pin 3 as I would of pin 5? Or I took the thing apart, watching some mods. 2 way, you can keep the relay in and by-pass, or take it out and connect the contacts with a wire. I can just solder the wire right to the board, using #5. I am learning, I am building the heaters for a rosin press. I have made a couple of them. originally I used the heaters out of coffee machines, and hair straighteners. Taking the componants and placing them inside aluminium blocks. I am making a few, and will continue building these, and I do want to get them certified. I am waiting for the correct ones, but I am trying to figure out how I can use these? I did figure the 12 volt, and perhaps may use these for a fan?
I do beleive this control is for a d.c heat element for a 3d printer, for plastic extrustion?
Can you post a link to box, and transformer?
Is there a difference between the mypin td4-snr and the mypin ta4-Snr. I’ve watched all of your videos, but I’ve heard you mention both. I just need some clarity.
The only difference is the availability of alarms. They are both the same for our designed purposes.
Good question.
George
Thanks.
Would you say the rapid on/offs could mess with your climate control devices (Heaters ACs Dehumis)?
PIDs are very misunderstood. Although to the average observer there is a cycling event of on/off that you can witness but in actuality the PID is operating as a pulse width modulator. There are no contacts to wear out since it is a solid state relay. The timing of the PIDs function will either turn on or off but when required it will adjust the pulse width so your load recognizes a change in voltage and current instead of an on/off cycle. This can be observed by pushing the set button on the PID to display the percentage of power being applied to the load. It really is an amazing little device.
George
What is the difference between AA and DA SSRs?
Not aware of any AA SSRs
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing 10-4, I ran across some on Amazon for sale. SSR-40-AA. I was able to find the DA versions and ordered them. Thanks for the video!
Hey, I just found them as well. Thanks for the info.
After reading both models it makes sense now; the AA is AC input and AC output whereas DA is DC input and AC output.
Now that makes sense.
George
Well George, Did I get the wrong MYPIN? MYPIN® "Universal Digital TD4-SNR PID Temperature Controller with Relay DIN /16 SSR-25DA, Dual Display for F/C, 7 Output Combinations, Accuracy: 0.2%" from Amazon. I'm putting in 240 volts and a 5500 heating unit. Thank you so much for all your help in your Video's.
You got the right one.
Please explain your drive to use Celsius instead of Fahrenheit.
Unfortunately MCI merged with Newark Electronics. Cannot locate the Box you used.
I was thinking about a couple of options for employing a PID controller and electric setup. Can I replace the standard plugs for GFCI and gain the safety of eliminating any hazard of electrifying my kettle, or similarly a RIMS coil?
I haven't put a GFCI on a PID before so I have no idea. My experience with GFCIs is that they are very sensitive.
Give it a try.
George
Barley and Hops Brewing I only ask because I was contemplating using an element like the hotrod heat element that submerges the element including the terminal side in a tube to prevent the need for porting the kettle.
I have no idea how that will work. Good luck and be safe.
George
czcams.com/video/tkCoa3L3cew/video.html I just don't want to energize the wort or kettle in any way.
I see what you mean now. I see no problem with this method of heating. There is actually no difference between this and inserting it the side of the kettle (I prefer inserting it). Both are held in place with a 2" clamp and wired the same. If securely wired and water tight there should be no problem.
The GFCI may be a bit over-kill but that's up to you.
Great idea.
George
Are they available for purchase?
George, what is the approx. measurement on the box???
This one is 220x170x120 mm. Pretty large for this PID set-up so don't get stuck on these measurements. You can go a little smaller and save $$$$. These cost around $20-$30 when available. There are plenty on Amazon or Ebay to chose from.
George, I am using a 2000W heater, which draws (I believe) about 16.5 amps. I believe I should use a 20a switch and receptacle, correct?
**Wait, I just needed to keep watching the video!
Only if you are switching the element. I switch the controller. Without the controller the element cannot energize. So, switching the 1/2 amp draw is safer and more realistic than trying to switch the element.
George
I'm 220v single phase 50Hz wonder should I get a converter or get a heater, , SSR all for 220v 50Hz ?
No. No need to convert any Hz since you are not controlling digital timers or similar events. The PID will operate on both Hz (60 or 50)
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing much thanks sir.
Is there a place to buy all this stuff together as a kit
Yes, send an email to PIDcontrollers76@gmail.com for information about kits and specifics.
That’s a great video but I cannot find a video on the proper parallel circuit. Using Cartridge heaters. About 3-4 1250 watt heaters to cover the bottom of my oven. That’s what I need. I have everything else down. I just don’t want to wire them in a series. The cartridge heaters are 2 wire heaters each. Like I said I want to use 3-4 in a parallel circuit.
Wiring them in parallel is straight forward, two wires to the first one and then two wires from there to the next one and so on.
One challenge in a parallel circuit is the inverse relationship of resistance. As you add resistance the the circuit your total resistance goes down and your amperage goes up.
In a 240 volt circuit, volts x volts / watts ( 240v x 240v / 1250 = 46.08 ohms. So, one element will draw 5.2 amps. That is volts divided by resistance (240v / 46.08 ohms of resistance = 5.2 amps). This is for one element.
Hope I haven't lost you yet.
Now let's add the other three elements in the circuit: 1/46.08 + 1/46.08 + 1/46.08 + 1/46.08 = .086805555 then the inverse of this ( 1/.086805555 = 11.52 Ohms of resistance)
Now back to volts divided by resistance ( 240v / 11.52 Ohms = 20 amps )
You can do the same for 120V circuit, just replace the voltage numbers with 120.
Hope this helps.
George
That does help. The only question I have is if each cartridge hearted element is 1250 Watts, what does that make the combined wattage between the 4? I don’t want to over do it. You’ve been a huge help and I have learned more from your videos than I have every other video on CZcams.
Yes. They add up to 5000 total watts.
George
What size box is this?
4" X 6" X 8"
I wanna know how you would incorporate 240v heating couplers in the circuit. Can you write me back and do a video?
Can you explain a little more. What do you mean by couplers?
I would be happy to help in any way I can.
George
I’m building a curing oven for the firearm sprayed with cerakote ceramic paint that requires 250 degree heat to cure it. Thermocouples are heating elements that are in the bottom of the box usually. They a cylindrical and any length from 6” to 12”. They are mounted on an aluminum rack and then secured on the bottom. It has Two wires coming out of it and are ran to the outside of the box. Hope I explained it well enough.
Very good. Here is a video we did on wiring the 240V element. The same principles can be followed to do what you describe.
This is part 2 of the video if you need to you can also view part 1.
czcams.com/video/Lx6mlJOPehM/video.html
George
How do you change from C to F?
Never mind
Excellent. You must have found it
Watch that video enjoy
czcams.com/video/UETVv0qgz-w/video.html
What does PID stand for?
Proportional, integral,derivative controller. Using all three we can precisely control temperature.
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing Thanks for the reply George, that's a mouth full for sure!
George i need your help please reach out
Are they available for purchase?