WIRING THE PID CONTROLLER
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- čas přidán 23. 08. 2024
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Please use caution when wiring your own PID controller. They can be found on google and are relatively inexpensive. This one cost me about $16 .
Call if you have any questions 254-681-1760 and talk with George
George, you speaking emulates what goes through my head when I do this stuff. The fact that you drop tools and struggle with wires turning your parts on their side, is EXACTLY how these go together. Truly love your presentation. Its real... Keep it real George.....
George you are the Man! I've learned and am learning so much from you. Thank you. When I'm done with this overseas assignment in 2023 I would love to come by and visit if that's OK. My home of record is in Bandera and I'm in Germany right now. I started watching you when the pandemic began and all the Ethanol went away in my region so I had to learn very quickly how to make a quality sanitizer for my Military community. These folks were spraying bleach all over the place. I constantly tell the wife "well George said". I have a background in Chemistry and I have to brief folks on various topics and what you say is spot on. You are an excellent instructor.
Hi George, I needed to build a coating curing oven. Everyone said use a PID controller...I didnt want to mess with that. I found your channel to see what this PID thing was all about. Wow, you are awesome, simplified the entire process...Thank you so very much!!! I am on my way to a great operating oven....
Excellent tutorial! You shouldn't apologise for going too slow, that's just what most people need! Me especially! But I found your explanations and instructions very easy to follow. I need to watch it several times to get it set right in my head tho! Thanks again, from the UK.
Anytime
George
Me TOO!!! I think you do GREAT
I just spoke to Mr.George today, on a Sunday at that and I have to say he is one of the nicest guys you will ever speak with. Thanks a bunch.
It was my pleasure speaking with you.
George
this was perfect exactly what I needed to hook up my PID thanks it was a pain trying to find anyone with the proper knowledge and instruction (with a good explanation) to make it work. just finished wiring it up last night thanks to you.
I have said this before and I say it again, George, you really are easy to listen to, and you give me a great deal of confidence, you are a remarkable teacher!
ABSOLUTLY.....i 2nd that ,.....his teaching/communication skills are outstanding
One wire goes from Mains 110/ 240V straight to your fan heater etc the other from mains to the PID and it switched on and off by the PID...The PID tells the controller when to switch on or off your Fan/heater.....Best video I have seen and no KRAP noise booming in the foreground
I appreciate your boldness and thoroughness in making this tutorial
Hello Mr. I'm finishing right now my plastic injection machine. This tutorial was incredible useful to me. Thank you so much.
I put the PID CONTROLLER in a PVC Pipe 4-in x 4-in diameter at a 45° sewer pipe. Think round outside of the box. Best diy videos!
That was a great presentation George, you are a natural born teacher and I am a subscriber.
I was absolutely impressed by your explanation and want to say thank you. I am trying to make a cooker that requires a specific temperature to operate with. Earlier I was using a ready made CTW thermostat controller; the kind that is used on pizza pans. however, I was not able to get the right operating temperature as it doesn't have a digital temperature setting dial. hence , while researching for a better temperature controller, I arrived on your You tube explanation which I found to be not only very easy to understand but also exactly what I wanted. I therefore owe you a million thanks.
As mentioned by a fellow spectator, please do not apologize for repeating yourself. For a person like me even with a technical background, this is the kind of grass root explanation that I require to understand the fundamentals of how it works.
Getachew
I have always wondered why the Chinese who are obviously 'cleaver' at making these devices for 'peanuts' hardly ever supply a decent line drawing and further more that the terminal numbers match the line drawing.
You are a gem when it comes to explaining these devices.
I have sorted out quite a few faults in my time being a retired commercial heating engineer covering all fuels but I must say I always find it deplorable when good instructions are not given with any instrument that needs an explicit wiring diagram........ Very kind of you to give the excellent demo..... Can you believe how much these PID's cost?
The postage seems to cost more than the controller!
Thank you. I just joined the inlet neutral (white) and neutral to outlet at junction 2. Your tutorial helped no end and very wise repeating and explaining things well.
This is one of the best diy videos I've seen. Very well done, and very appreciated.
George, great presentation. Thanks for taking this hobby to a professional level.
without a doubt the best and easiest to follow tutorial on wiring up one of these common little devices. you pretty much made it as simple as it will ever get. great job! one thing though you should mention though is the differences of wiring colour around the world. my main and neutral wires are brown and blue not white and black like the USA leads. but obviously if you dont know this then you should probably leave it to an electrician.
I normally hate lengthy videos, but you did an awesome job of explaining everything. Thanks so much!
Always be safe George? Honestly mate when you were holding that pid with the hot connectors in your palm I thought I was watching Electroboom. Love ya man
This video is exactly what i was looking for. I have a Masterbuilt smoker that had all dead controls. The individual parts would have been as much as a new smoker. This video helped walk me through making a better control system at much less than it would have cost to repair the original equipment. Thank you so very much. If i may offer a small bit of constructive feedback. It would be helpful if you a wiring diagram overlay somewhere throughout the video, it's also likely I just missed it. Either way thank you so very much. Great video.
Thanks George - Great instructions on this controller and just what I was looking for. I went with a cheaper one this time. I like the InkBird but $40 wasn't in this budget build this time. I hope for $18 it lasts.
Very good video. Just what I was looking for! I liked the pace you explained it, it made it a lot easier to follow. I will be connecting my pid today.
I've been meaning to do this for years and after watching this vid I finally decided to pull the trigger. I just got a few of these and they work great, couple of gotchas though the instructions that came with mine are poorly translated and full of typos. It took me about 30 min and 4 or 5 youtube videos to figure out how to reverse the action (for keeping temp in a fridge). That being said for the money these cost it's well worth the investment. One other thing, be sure to get the heat sinks and use some thermal paste on them, the SSRs do generate a fair amount of heat when you have a load on them keeping them cool will extend their life significantly.
Awesome
Everyone should keep in mind, electrical code would say that needs to be on a 20A circuit as you can only load a circuit to 80%. It won't matter here but an inspector would be upset. Great video though! Very informative!
Thank you, wired my first PID controller with plug and works like a charm👍. Tried it on my kettle.
Sir big Solute:
Awesome video as an engineer I never see such a great explanation,
Nice effort.
Thank you very much for this, other tutorials were very vague about the specifics, you've saved me a lot of time
You really saved my butt with this video George!
Excellent video. Needed to make my own DIY Sou vide setup, couldn't find any till I got to your video. Thanks mate.
G’day George from ‘down under’ - pretty new to distilling and found your CZcams channel - WOW ! So much great info - followed your videos step by step and built a PID - fantastic- works a treat!
Have a great Christmas and have a great 2018
Thanks for all your help on wiring , works great as it should.😁
Thank you so much for the help when I called. You are amazing!
Any time. We are here to help in any way we can.
George
Fantastic video, very easy to follow your explanation. Thanks!
Great video and very helpful. Just a word of advice, considering you're plugging the PID system into a 15 amp circuit (that uses 14awg wire from the main breaker), using 12awg wire for your PID system is redundant. Also 120v heating elements are extremely inefficient and I would highly recommend using a 240v one.
I just like your style in the way you explain things so I subscribed... Cant wait to watch more vids! thanks!
Thanks for the video, for those that learn by hands on this is absolutely perfect
Thanks for this.. I fabricate car parts.. I'm not an electrician. I'm another one of the DIY powdercoat oven guys. I took a 4 drawer filing cabinet, fabricated a (110v) 1500W two-burner portable stovetop into the bottom and I'm running this C100.
It's an ungrounded cooktop so I just replaced the receptical connections with the respective power cable wires. I wouldn't have gotten it right if I was left to my own devices.. lol
Thanks again. Now its time to powdercoat some stuff bigger than the inside of a toaster oven.. ;)
Just for the record, a thermocouple is not a resistance device, it is a voltage-inducing device. The PID actually senses the voltage produced by the dissimilar metal contact thermocouple. Dissimilar metals (if you know about plumbing which will corrode over time, such as a brass fitting on an iron pipe). The metal corrosion is a result of electron flow. This happens because any ambient heat in the atmosphere here on earth will be converted into an electrical voltage by the dissimilar metal contact point. A thermocouple is actually an electrical generator with the voltage directly related to presence of heat. It takes advantage of this phenomenon when used as a temperature sensor. The controller can put this voltage through a meter that can be marked for a temperature scale. The thermocouple isn't a very efficient generator so it's not used for any practical use other than as a temp sensor since it reliably and predictably varies in voltage output based on its temperature. It is true also that the conductivity of a wire will vary with its temperature, but that's not a thermocouple and is used in a very different manner.
Thanks Dave. I appreciate it and will try to incorporate this in the future.
Hey thanks, i just wired up my PID using this guide and im watching the temp rise right now. Thanks!
Let me know if you need anything or any help. These things are great
George
Thx for the detailed video, I am setting up an injection machine and was not sure how to wire it up... Thx again
Thank you. I avoided reading the instructions. Much appreciated.
thanks, george, great help by phone fast pick up and with great concern
Excellent tutorial! Great instructions on this controller Thanks
Thank you so much! PID controlers are awesome!
Thanks for this video!! Exactly what I needed to wire my PID to the SSR. Their almost all wired up now except for half of the one. I ran out of wire. :-) Great video. Now I need to know how to wire the 22mm push button so it switchces the element on and off.
Awesome
Thank you sir. You may have just very well saved my life :)
very well done, I really like the plug idea. I did the same thing but with 220 bit my experience wasn't as effortless as yours seem to be. keep up the good work
Nice instructions. A few things- 1)even this is hobby, safety wise, it's best to follow colour convention ( brown/red for live), blue for neutral. 2) The way he is holding the rear unit with exposed live terminals is...dicing with death!
Very nice tutorial. I know next to nothing about PID controllers, but I need to get involved. So I'm looking for tutorials to help me learn and get started. I'm subscribing to your channel!
Very good. Here are two playlists of our PID tutorials. You may find what you need here. Feel free to ask questions.
czcams.com/video/En5Ewow4_tU/video.html
and also:
czcams.com/video/jze4LTONq8s/video.html
What an incredible video! You are the only person on youtube that shows the set up with such ease and detail. I really want to thank you for that. Could i please ask you one question? My brew kettle is 220v. Would you be so kind to tell me how you set it up for my bigger heating element.
This helps so much! Super simple! This also made me subscribe. Thanks again!!!
Great lesson...with thanks from Australia
13:52 Story of my life George. This is me all the time.
2020 and I found this VERY helpful, thanks!
Thank you so much u make it very easy very well and very happy to see this video ... 👌🏻
Hey george, i found out instead of wiring in the light seperate, you can also use an extension cord with a lighted end for the heater element cable, so it will blink on and off when its receiving power.
Correction- Type K thermocouples don't "measure resistance" but rather they generate a small voltage as a result of dissimilar metals attached at a junction at the end of the probe.
Temperature changes, increases/decreases, causes this voltage to vary in magnitude. The voltage variation is sensed by the instrument and converted to a display of temperature using an algorithm that interpolates the small non-linear changes in voltages to temperature.
There's a reason that a polarity is assigned to the TC probe terminals and that is because, as I said, the K type (and others) thermocouples generate voltage.
Very true. Thanks
Did you have a product list in one of these videos?
absolutely wonderful tutorial!!! looking forward to trying it out!!
Great video George but I'm confused a bit. Where did you get a 120 VAC step down transformer with an output of 12 VDC? Is that a 12 VAC fan?
Thermocouples put out a small voltage not resistance. RTDs are devices that change resistance as temperature changes.
hi i am from holland and wach your videos and you say you have to be carefull that the pot dont have a leak so vaper dont get out but the spirel from a boiler when you put it on can get red hot cant that not ge a problem to put that inside a pot ?
Hello, where I live, in Argentina, we have 220V between lines and a neutral, therefor between both hotlines we achieve 380V.
I’d like to know if it’s feasible to connect the element between bothhot lines to get mor power. If so, in which PID’s terminals should I connect them.
Thanks!!
F
Hi George, I noticed that you don’t put any heat paste or a gap pad on the SSR, will the thermal transfer be good enough to the heats ink?
Very well done! Thanks so much for help.
Thank you for your effort. I was skipping around the video and I couldn't find where you attached the ground. Please let me know.
Would it be beneficial to add a 10A fuse and a 15A LED switch between the power source and the SSR input #1?
Wonderful, clear and concise tutorial. There is just one thing I may have missed. Where does the heating element fit into this circuit? I'm currently building a heat treat oven. Thanks from the UK.
It goes in the oven and connected to pins 1,2 on the solid state relay.
George
Barley and Hops Brewing Thank you George. Greatly appreciated. How do you find the rex-c100? I've read mixed reviews, some say it won't drive the SSR! Thanks again, Matt
I am not a big fan of the Rex C-100. I prefer the Mypin TA series or the Inkbird ITC 106-VH model.
George
Barley and Hops Brewing great! Thanks George.
Do you have a full written plan on how you can set up the PID? Thank you, Great videos!
Hello sir great video and I like the way that you take the time to break everything down with an explanation of why it's being done that way. I have a question hopefully it doesn't sound to silly. I'm building a oven for applying Cerakote. My heat source is going to be an element from a oven. How would I wire that into the system that you showed in this video. Thank for doing these videos. I'm in the process of building one of these boxes now, I'm just a little unsure about this last step. Thank you sir.
Great video, question, you have a hot, neutral and ground running down the table to the floor you did not touch on. Where are these wires going? I would think the circuit breaker but i may be wrong.
Thank you George!
thanks for the helpping other people
Very good presentation I have one question where do my heating band wires get attached?
hi I like your explanation on the use of PID, I am just asking can I use this device as in incubator controller, and can it help in controlling the turning of the motor that used to turn the egg tray?
I was waiting for you to light up like a Xmas tree while you were holding the back of the PID with 240 volt live terminals. Scary.
Careful,,,,
That's 110~120
And he had it protected would have had to touch a screw which would have been very hard to do
Very helpful, thanks.
Hi there George. Just wondering why on post 5 which you said was negative you used black cable and post 4 which you said was positive white. I'm from the UK, so I had to google American electrical cable colour.
Great video, Clear instructions
thAnk you for this instructional video it worked out so good for me
Wow! Great job! Very well done!!!!!!!!
Concerning this PID with SSR... if I have a 10kw heating element, is there any way to decrease the frequency of the signal from the PID sent to the SSR before limiting my heating element to 9kw? For example, is there an option in the menu that allows 90% of the signal sent to the SSR instead of 100%? That would solve my problem.
By the way there is no reference to the heat sink..... Please can you say if the heat sink is crucial when the relay is fed by 110v and the controller is controlling at 200C. I would appreciate your help. I could check the temp as I have a laser thermometer if it is used without a heat sink. I've not got much room to fit a heat sink but if it's essential I could with difficulty fit it.
Great video
I've been watching every video and downloaded 5 or 6 manuals for these PIDs and now am getting the idea of what PIDs do what and how to decode the model number.
Whats the model of the PID you have? I found out the numbers past REX-C100 mean something.
One minor point. Thermocouples measure the small voltage created when two dissimilar metals, in the tip, create a tiny voltage. That voltage is measured by the PID and converted to temp.
PS Oh I'm going to use my PID to control a fan for a BBQ Smoker. More air = more heat. A little more iffy than just turning off and on a heating element. :)
Excellent tutorial! How I add shutoff timer to this and wich one. Thanks fore all your help
Nice video,very detailed,thanks!
hello - does the PID goes back to the selected temperature after losing power?
Ok this video was awesome for wiring this PID up do you have a video on how to program it for a keezer or am I even able to ya it for that
Thanks for the videos. I like then a lot. It would be great if you could post the list of parts you used. Also, what kind of heating element do you use? Do you use a cooling element?
Great video. Made it easy for a dummy like me. My controller is used in a powder coat owen. I am experiencing problems with the PV exceeding the SV. I had SV set at 200 degrees celsius, but PV rose to 240 degrees, and heating elements was still red hot, full power...... Any ideas how to sort this? I have a second Breme REX C100 supposed to be used in a beer boiler, but not keen on using that if I can't control the temerature with it...
You need to go into se setings by pressing the SET button for 5 seconds and and then swith off 'P'. Not the expert myself but play around with settings and you will find how to get it to stop heating once it reaches the set temp.
Great video! Quick question though. With all that exposed in the open will it shock you if you touch it?
YES
Great video. Thanks! What is puzzling me is the wiring diagram of the SSR output. It shows clearly a + and - minus sign, but also a relay make and brake contact with the mother contact on connection 3, so I first thought you had it wrong and had to use connections 3 and 4 because that should be the make contact. Any idea where connection 3 is used for?
Excellent video!! But, if I want to connect an alarm? I connect that directly to the PID?
does the PID output DC to pins 3-4 on the SSR? IF so which REX C100 PID did you buy?
I need to replace my controller. My current controller has 3 outputs all mechanical relay 5a. 1 and 2 are form A and 3 is form C. 2 & 3 were used to control the burner control box and the Honeywell combo valve. 1 is not used. My new controller has two outputs 1 & 2 form a and form c. I am guessing that I can just use the 1 and 2 in place of the 2 and 3
Thanks
Charlie
I have a berme rex c100. With the pins? I have 1,2, 3 and 4. no 5? but looks like 3 and 5 are the same?also missing the alarms. and number 8. Hooking up 300watt , cylinder mold heater to it. Very good video, thanks you. I will be doing it this weekend.
Excellent video, thank you!
I have an old Satellite kiln that I upgrade to digital, and recently the SSR was burned, now I order another SSR 40A, and I, going to wire with high temperature insulated coated wire, and the wires4 and 5 just regular and probably smaller gauge wire do you think is a good idea?
hello Mr. Barley i like a lot your videos, i have a question: how does the heating band should be connected because mine is not turning off or is there a configuration that i should do in the PID controller