Thank god that someone finally explains properly how the wires are hooked up and with an explanation as to why it is hooked up to the SSR this way. I have been searching for hours for this information. Thank you so much!
Do you know if this method will work with a cartridge heater? i am getting one to run using such a control system. Also, would a receptacle be absolutely necessary?
Thanks so much for a great series. I'm a bullet caster and want to make one for my lead pot as well as my toaster oven. Oh, how about my electric BBQ smoker and my wifes heat lamp for baby chicks. Maybe a Sous Vide pot for steaks using a crock pot or table top burner. So many uses. I've realized the need for a long time just was intmidated to tackle it. I think I can safetly do it. Your videos are just detailed enough for me. Thanks again. By the way I would definantly have multiple thermocuples so there wouldn't be contamination between lead and food.
I noticed you said blue is positive and red is negative lol , had that wired wrong way round, lucky you picked up that the probe wasn't reading or working correctly. Nice explanation George.
Thanks George I’ve found the 12 gauge wire, just have to put my plug on the wire.. I’m wanting the 120 plug that looks like the male end of a power cord. Thanks👍cheers🍻
Your videos are very informative, I would like to see a video that you use 2, 40 amp SSR's. One on each 120 volt leg with a 50 watt analog meter hooked up and a 5500 watt heating element in a boiler so we can see it heat up.
This is great. However, can anyone chim in and tell me from terminals 3 and 4 on the SSR,where do they connect to on a PID controller SL 4848-RR model. Would appreciate it.
Well I bought the AGPtek F/C T Series TA4-SSR Variant that didn't come with a manual. When I googled up a download it turns out to be a Mypin manual. It even says Mypin under the set button. So it appears this video can apply to the AGPtek SSR controller too.
t This is by far the most detailed explanation out there!! Thank you! I finally got everything in order and assembled. I triple checked all of m,y connections and wire terminations. I am now trying to figure out if the SSR that I have or the PID controller or both pieces are faulty. SSR was a new unit and the PID unit was used. No power to outlet. No clicking from SSR . I'm using this on a smoker. What am I missing here??
I kind of need a little more information than that. What type of PID do you have? Shoot me an email at george.duncan76@gmail.com. A photo of how you have it wired would also be helpful. George
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing I think this is a case of consumer error. I have a MYPIN TA4 - SNR . I have taken pics and will be emailing you shortly. . Thank you for your time and patience.
I got them. I also drew a wiring diagram that may help you and emailed it to you. Let me know if this helps. If not we can talk on the phone. Send me your number and I'll call you. George
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing I got your email and I am wired right on par with your schematic. The recent cold snap we had here in Wisconsin, has had me running nonstop. I will resume the build midweek. I will certainly keep you abreast of my progress.
Excellent! Your teaching method is brilliant. Easy to follow and understand so that even a novice like me can get it. Now I want to know how to wire all of the other stuff you've added to your other PID boxes. I can't wait to get started on my mine! One question, I want to run a 2000W element with 120V, 20 Amp breaker. I understand I need to use 12 gage wire, however what gage do I need to run between the PID and SSR, and the PID to power? Is it still 16 gage? Thank you very much for these videosI can't wait to get started on my mine!
You can actually get by with 14 Gauge wire for that but prom the PID to the SSR use small gauge wire like bell wire or a 20-22 gauge wire. This is signaling only with very low voltage. No need to overdo it. George
Hi George. I really appreciate the 2 videos you have done on this topic. I have a question though...if I wanted to put a second element in my boiler, do I need to double the size of my breaker and go to a bigger wire gauge?
Hey George I didn’t hear you say what brand this PID IS? What kind of PID IS on this video?? INK BIRD and others or different so do you go by numbers the same formation is this video, would you just use the numbers on the PID corresponding to positive and negative?
Do you use the "autotune"-function or do you have any "standard" numbers for the P, I and D values?. I guess almost all that watching your great videos are going to use the PID-controller for the same purpose!:-) and then I thougt that maybe you have come up with a good setting...
Hey George... In your earlier videos on making PID controllers you used a red lighted rocker switch, is there a reason you went to the house type switch?
No real reason other than it was available and people recognize it easier. Either one will work just fine. It all depends on what you want your controller to look like. George
We’re and what do u ask for to get your main power source wire for 120v..... I’m running 2000w heating element on 120v.... looking for 12 gauge wire for 120 wall receptacle im getting my power from
Home depot or Lowes both carry the 12 gauge 3 wire cable. Usually on a roll that you need to ask for. If you tell them you are running 120volts up to 20 amp, the associate should point you in the right direction. That direction should be 12gauge 3 wire cable.
A 1/4 HP pump draws quite a bot of current. The alarm out put on most PIDs is restricted to 30V DC at 5 amps and for SSR logic it is 24V DC at 20 mili amps. You could use a contact relay but the internal relay in (most) PIDs will not handle the amperage draw for a 1/4 HP pump. George
If I wanted the lower plug to run a pump, I would splice the power coming from the switch, therefore I would have one going to the SSR and one to the lower plug correct from the switch? I think I'm getting the hang of this
Thank god that someone finally explains properly how the wires are hooked up and with an explanation as to why it is hooked up to the SSR this way. I have been searching for hours for this information. Thank you so much!
Do you know if this method will work with a cartridge heater? i am getting one to run using such a control system. Also, would a receptacle be absolutely necessary?
I finally have all my parts. Gotta watch these instructions a few times, then I'll start the build. Wish me luck George !!
I'm running a transformer and a fan, so I have other videos to watch too 😉 Thank You Sir !!
Love the videos 👍 Thank you George, HAPPY DISTILLING
thanks George very good demo
Singed up for the electronics maintainers position @ work.. We have furnaces that need this system.. thanks for the video..
Thanks George. Very informative. I'll build this controller for for the 1500w heater in my still.
You have done a great job with your videos.
Thanks so much for a great series. I'm a bullet caster and want to make one for my lead pot as well as my toaster oven. Oh, how about my electric BBQ smoker and my wifes heat lamp for baby chicks. Maybe a Sous Vide pot for steaks using a crock pot or table top burner. So many uses. I've realized the need for a long time just was intmidated to tackle it. I think I can safetly do it. Your videos are just detailed enough for me. Thanks again. By the way I would definantly have multiple thermocuples so there wouldn't be contamination between lead and food.
I noticed you said blue is positive and red is negative lol , had that wired wrong way round, lucky you picked up that the probe wasn't reading or working correctly. Nice explanation George.
I like the stuff that you teach you're pretty good teacher
Thanks a bunch. I try hard to be precise as well as complete where I can.
Glad you enjoy the videos.
George
thanks for shearing ... very interesting .. God bless.
Thanks George I’ve found the 12 gauge wire, just have to put my plug on the wire.. I’m wanting the 120 plug that looks like the male end of a power cord. Thanks👍cheers🍻
Thanks, explain very well, any laymen can follow
Your videos are very informative, I would like to see a video that you use 2, 40 amp SSR's. One on each 120 volt leg with a 50 watt analog meter hooked up and a 5500 watt heating element in a boiler so we can see it heat up.
Thank you George!!
Thanks so much for your videos, any idea when you might be doing the video on the variable control and pump switch?
This is great. However, can anyone chim in and tell me from terminals 3 and 4 on the SSR,where do they connect to on a PID controller SL 4848-RR model. Would appreciate it.
Great video
Well I bought the AGPtek F/C T Series TA4-SSR Variant that didn't come with a manual. When I googled up a download it turns out to be a Mypin manual. It even says Mypin under the set button. So it appears this video can apply to the AGPtek SSR controller too.
t
This is by far the most detailed explanation out there!! Thank you! I finally got everything in order and assembled. I triple checked all of m,y connections and wire terminations. I am now trying to figure out if the SSR that I have or the PID controller or both pieces are faulty. SSR was a new unit and the PID unit was used. No power to outlet. No clicking from SSR . I'm using this on a smoker. What am I missing here??
I kind of need a little more information than that.
What type of PID do you have?
Shoot me an email at george.duncan76@gmail.com.
A photo of how you have it wired would also be helpful.
George
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing I think this is a case of consumer error. I have a MYPIN TA4 - SNR . I have taken pics and will be emailing you shortly. . Thank you for your time and patience.
Having Trouble loading pics in the email. will shoot them to you tomorrow.
I got them. I also drew a wiring diagram that may help you and emailed it to you.
Let me know if this helps.
If not we can talk on the phone. Send me your number and I'll call you.
George
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing I got your email and I am wired right on par with your schematic. The recent cold snap we had here in Wisconsin, has had me running nonstop. I will resume the build midweek. I will certainly keep you abreast of my progress.
Excellent! Your teaching method is brilliant. Easy to follow and understand so that even a novice like me can get it. Now I want to know how to wire all of the other stuff you've added to your other PID boxes. I can't wait to get started on my mine!
One question, I want to run a 2000W element with 120V, 20 Amp breaker. I understand I need to use 12 gage wire, however what gage do I need to run between the PID and SSR, and the PID to power? Is it still 16 gage?
Thank you very much for these videosI can't wait to get started on my mine!
You can actually get by with 14 Gauge wire for that but prom the PID to the SSR use small gauge wire like bell wire or a 20-22 gauge wire. This is signaling only with very low voltage. No need to overdo it.
George
very nice explanation thank you
Hi George. I really appreciate the 2 videos you have done on this topic. I have a question though...if I wanted to put a second element in my boiler, do I need to double the size of my breaker and go to a bigger wire gauge?
What is the name of the box, and where can it be purchased? P.S. I appreciate your videos, I have learned so much about this craft.
Hey George I didn’t hear you say what brand this PID IS? What kind of PID IS on this video?? INK BIRD and others or different so do you go by numbers the same formation is this video, would you just use the numbers on the PID corresponding to positive and negative?
When is the 220V video coming out? - looking to rebuild mine and want B&HB insight first!
Hey George where is the best place to install a K probe in a pot still and how would you mount it.
on to the next video!!
Do you use the "autotune"-function or do you have any "standard" numbers for the P, I and D values?. I guess almost all that watching your great videos are going to use the PID-controller for the same purpose!:-) and then I thougt that maybe you have come up with a good setting...
I use P = 1.00, I=240.0 and D = 90.00 but autotune helps as well.
George, what do you sell your pid controllers for( 120 volt single element)
Hey George... In your earlier videos on making PID controllers you used a red lighted rocker switch, is there a reason you went to the house type switch?
No real reason other than it was available and people recognize it easier. Either one will work just fine. It all depends on what you want your controller to look like.
George
We’re and what do u ask for to get your main power source wire for 120v..... I’m running 2000w heating element on 120v.... looking for 12 gauge wire for 120 wall receptacle im getting my power from
Home depot or Lowes both carry the 12 gauge 3 wire cable. Usually on a roll that you need to ask for. If you tell them you are running 120volts up to 20 amp, the associate should point you in the right direction. That direction should be 12gauge 3 wire cable.
How many volts does the alarm on the PID put out, will it push a 120v 1/4 HP water pump
A 1/4 HP pump draws quite a bot of current. The alarm out put on most PIDs is restricted to 30V DC at 5 amps and for SSR logic it is 24V DC at 20 mili amps. You could use a contact relay but the internal relay in (most) PIDs will not handle the amperage draw for a 1/4 HP pump.
George
Is the wire from the receptacle and the switch to the ssr the signaling wire (16awg) as well?
Signaling wires can be 20-22 gauge.
If I wanted the lower plug to run a pump, I would splice the power coming from the switch, therefore I would have one going to the SSR and one to the lower plug correct from the switch? I think I'm getting the hang of this
That is not reading backwards. It is reading bass akwards. lol