Shower Wall Wet Shimming for Beginners
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- Äas pĆidĂĄn 14. 05. 2024
- See shower wall wet shimming tips, specifically how to wet shim Schluter KERDI-BOARD. If you're doing a bathroom remodel and need help, enroll in Home Repair Tutor's online courses at www.homerepairtutor.com/ đđŒ
#wetshim #kerdiboard #schlutershower #homerepairtutor
0:00 Shower wall wet shimming tips
0:11 How to mix thin-set to wet shim shower walls
0:24 How to inspect shower stud walls for backer boards
0:57 How to wet shim stud walls with thin-set
1:46 How to embed Schluter KERDI-BOARD into thin-set
These supplies were used in our video:
Schluter ALL-SET mortar
Schluter KERDI-BOARD
Margin Trowel
KERDI Trowel
4-Foot Level
6-Foot Level
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Very informative!
Good work đ
Well explained
awesome video for people learning how to wet shim. just one thing. 12" screw spacing is only for your field studs. permiter screws need to be 6 inches apart.
Thank you
Good tip thanks. If you are doing new construction a kitchen and a bathroom is a good place to use engineered studsâŠ
Great tip, would this work for drywall behind normal Kerdi too?
Can you do the same thing if you have the Schluter system with the Kerdi wall wrap + mold resistant drywall?
I haven't used Kerdi board yet...will have to try it.
I like it because you can wet shim, unfortunately not all boards allow it. But itâs also great for making custom niches and you can even stack scrap pieces to build curbs (they have to be thin-setter together and waterproofed with KERDI)
Any tips on wet shimming your kerdi boards but also installing a niche, especially if the location of the niche will fall on studs that need to be shimmed?
Can you please do an update on the video you had on the corner of the tub with the leak you had but put kurdi board! Iâm debating on doing this. Had a new bathroom but contractor doesnât wanna fix it. I was going to follow your steps but nervous it wonât work. You kept saying this is an experiment. Thank you!
In the process of a shower remodel. After removing the tub enclosure, I found the was to be both out-of-plumb and not square. Dry shimming would take forever. I'm going to give wet shimming. I'm using GoBoard vice Kerdi-Board; I'm assuming the process will work with either.
Used this method on my custom shower build and it worked out FABULOUSLY!! Thanks to you & Sal for sharing your expertise! â„ïž
About to start another bathroom remodel, stuck on: do I remove the bulkhead over the tub/shower combo or not? What say you? I have attic access and the previous bulkhead I did remove was completely empty. So itâs a matter of personal preference and whatâs more current with modern bathroom remodels. Do I or donât I? Help! đ
Iâm remodeling my bathroom right now built in 1961, but it was remodeled in the 80s where the bulkheads were in prominence. I highly recommend removing the bulkhead especially if you have 8 foot walls like I do because were moving the bulkhead will make your bathroom look much taller and spacious. I was fortunate that the previous owner simply built the bulkhead around the existing ceiling and walls so when I removed it there was a clean white textured wall and ceiling to tie into
@@brentcollins1036 well, Iâm glad someone answered in the affirmative because I already ripped it out and installed the cement board ceiling that Iâll be tiling up there đ Just donât want to deal with mold on paint in the future. This bathroom has a window so there is no exhaust fan, and that situation is almost a guarantee for mold to develop on the ceiling, even with an open window. In my area itâs one or the other to meet code. Itâs so much easier to clean tile than it is a painted surface. I mean I could still install an exhaust fan, but I also really like how it looks when a shower is tiled all the way up the walls to & including the ceiling. So Iâm not doing that extra tiling solely because it doesnât have a fan. Iâm also installing lights up there too. Doing mostly the same of what I did in the other bathroom I remodeled but, instead of a walk in shower like the other one, this one has a tub.
Also this house was built in â82 so there are pointless bulkheads everywhere đ© The only things I found in each so far was one wire that only needed to be moved, not even cut or extended, just moved because there was more than enough slack, and then the vent stack which was easily relocated into the wall recess between the studs. Couldnât have been easier.
Thanks for your input!! đ
Would you still wet shim over the plastic (on the exterior wall) in a basement shower?
Love your videos!!! Quick question screws and washers can you use kerdi fix caulk to fill the screws instead of kerdi band?
I know this is old, but no, you cannot
@@itech301 thank u I was arguing with my tile guy!
@@tonyburry9036 hopefully he ended up doing it properly!
He did lol because I dident fall for it told him to still do it the way I wanted it lol
Tried this with Durocher. The walls are still out of plumb. Of course the whole room is not level and plumb to start with. Shower floor is 3/4â higher at one end of a 6â shower.
we wet shim with polyurethane sealant, works great
which sealant do you use?
@@HomeRepairTutor Polyurethane (joke)
@@HomeRepairTutor wedi joint sealant, laticrete hydroban board sealant or sikaflex
After the Kerdi board. Can you install Hardie backer thickness of 0.42â thick board on top of the Kerdi backer !
I'm pretty sure that would eliminate the purpose for the Schluter Water Management systems. If you were going to go that route, I would just use hardie backer and then waterproof it.
Would this work for hardi board as well? I have about 3/4" out of plumb from top to bottom.
Iâd sister a new stud
Great tips.đ
If i donât tile the ceiling, should i fill the void between the kerdi board and the ceiling with kerdi fix ??
Thanks and have a great day.
Thank you, you could fill the void with thin-set and seal it with KERDI-BAND, itâs a bit cheaper than KERDI-FIX
@@HomeRepairTutor : thatâs a great suggestion. I will do that.
Thanks for the reply.
@@Peter-.H happy to help buddy đđŒ
Is it okay to put the shower pan in after? Does it matter?
Schluter has no preference but I recommend putting in the tray after the boards so youâre no constantly stepping on it or dropping tools that could damage the fleece
@@HomeRepairTutor thank you
What would be wrong with using construction adhesive?
The adhesive could ruin the fleece and eat through the foam core
Today I tried to wet shim the 3 studs that are bowed and it was an unmitigated DEFCON 1 disaster.
I bought All Set from Floor and decor and had everything prepped just like the instructions said.
I covered the tub (thank God). I wanted to use 1/5 of the bag to do the 3 studs. So I divided the water amount (7.5 qts) by 5 to get 1.5 qts. I measured out 10 lbs of the mix and mixed it with my drill mixer and ribbon paddle.
I could tell it was too soupy so I called Schluter and the guy said add a little more mix which i did. It seemed to firm up a little but was still very creamy. I though maybe that would work. So I started applying it to the studs and could tell in my gut right away it was too runny but for whatever reason I pressed on (stupid). Thin set was flying everywhere as I was trying to go from trowel to margin trowel to stud. It was dripping onto the tub surface.
All rational thought abandoned me next as I thought it would be a great idea to throw up the 4 pieces of Kerdi board just to see and lo and behold - they were still bowed as there was zero build up from the sloopy slop on the studs.
So I pulled off the boards, lightly wiped and sanded the mortar off the back of them, sanded clean the studs as best I could, cleaned the mortar from the tub lips, tools, towels, shoes, hair, pants, etc.
I wasted 2 hours and half a bag of All set and I'm no better for it save a little experience.
I'm considering buying 3 studs and trying to sister stud as I'm absolutely terrified about trying to wet shim again. I look like I was under the Stay Puft Marshmallow Man when he exploded.
Any wisdom, advice, or encouragement is appreciated.
This was hilarious. And it was literally my experience the last couple of days.
Had everything wet shimmed, plum and flat. Waited a day to screw in the backer board and low and behold nothing was flat and plum.
Not sure how perfect it needs to be but I did tear it down, removed all the dry thin-set and even went over some of the high spots with my planer.
Trying again tomorrow. Hopefully I have better luck.
How did yours end up turning out? What did you end up going with?
Thatâs unfortunate đ sounds like you were just a few mixes away from getting the consistency that you need..
you still pushed through and cleaned your tools after. I respect that a lot đđœđ«Ą
If youâve got a garage or workshop, I highly recommend just cutting a square or rectangular board out of Cement board or Schluter: then mix up a small back of thinset again and scratch coat/trowel a few small 4x4 tiles đđœ
Yep wet shim is way easier than cardboard shims.
important to note wet shimming should not only ever be used on foam backer boards. you cannot and should do this with cement board etc.
Brain just exploded trying to read that
That's what I was thinking.