Amsoil Engine Flush 2 (Better Methods)
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- čas přidán 19. 04. 2020
- Based on feedback from my last video, I tried the Amsoil Engine Flush a second time with better methods, higher concentration, and longer idle time. The results will probably surprise you.
- Auta a dopravní prostředky
Wow. Great experiment. Only few people on CZcams follow and correct themselves especially these kind. You did amazing job, just helping thousands of people who can’t see lab results but you showed them real world result. 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼.
Good video. You went through alot to answer the negative comments. Awesome.
Thanks 👍🏻
Saw your old video and love this video bud, good work.
Ive been watching videos on amsoil flush over the past week, an i must say yours is the most detailed and honest ive come across and also made me think twice using amsoil flush. think ill use BG 109 instead. Keep up the great work
I watched a video testing flushing and the best was bg103
I ended up going all amsoil. Their Oil covers a wide range of price (OE, XL, SS), and has a good track record, always top oil every few years when they all go through reformulation (can't say the same for Pennzoil ultra which rumor has gotten worst ). Their differential oil and transmission oil is good. Their performance improver is actually proven to work (Redlin SL1 also good), while Chevron techron is questionable. Because I buy specialty cars used for high performance application, I went with the Amsoil Signature. I even compared it to redline and motul, and Amsoil came out the cheapest. I also just got their HD metal protector (great reviews), and their Metal protector (WD-40 like product). Their brake cleaner is also the only Non VOC i know of that still packs cleaning power (unlike CRC Green). I do not know of any other oil companies with so many good track record, good performing products.
CVT fluid sucks though. Amsoil cause transmission shudder in my friends Infiniti.
I was using Shell Rotella until I bit the bullet and fully switched to Amsoil 5w-30 in my Caprice L77 and the difference is night and day. As others have stated you can become a member for $20 a year and pay about ~$7.76 USD per qt. I personally prefer the of use Puralator Boss Filters since they're made in America!
Quick note: I’m an Amsoil customer but with the last oil change decided to use Purolator boss and now my car runs smooth like always but Rpm are down from 2400/2450 to 2100 🎉
@@wellnesscoach73 Funny you mention that, I too was using Purolator Boss filters and they are great! After using Liqui moly on my last change I noticed higher increase in oil consumption. This time around I went with Fram Ultra Synthetic Filter and Castrol Edge Extended Performance. $27 for 5 qts from good ol Amazon. Only reason I didn't go with Purolator again is I couldn't find my filter on Amazon...
Keep up the good work! Excellent job.👍
Beautiful test I appreciate the time money and effort you put into this video it has helped me greatly
kudos for redoing it taking into account the recommendations. I think your engine in that new F350 is in good condition.
Must’ve been a well maintained engine. Those 6.2 are amazing
Great video man.
Glad I’m not the only one who finds it counterintuitive to add cleaning detergents to very dirty oil as per all these oil flush instructions.
I am leery though of deliberately using the wrong/heavier oil but after bouncing the idea off a couple of mechanic friends they said it isn’t all that bad. I’ve even heard of using 10w-30 diesel oil like Valvoline Blue restore while driving for a week then adding your flush before the change.
Great work
Really enjoyed keep it up 👍
Great video
Amsoil is cheap if you're a preferred customer and free shipping...end of discussion..👍
Heck I live in Bulgaria, Europe and my diesel Amsoil oil is just 20$ more expensive than Shell oil... Why not put the best if there's that low price difference🤷♂️
Especially if you get the OE line of their oil instead of the signature series
I've been using Amsoil I'm a preferred customer but"Ford boss me" has the lab results and shows proof that you can use any shelf oil chang your oil frequently & it does the job. Amsoil is just over priced over hyped oil. Change your oil 3kto5k miles your engine will last & stay clean.
Great to see a new video from a local youtuber! Unfortunately I'm not a DIY oil change (or any mechanical) person at all. Any fish videos coming?
I think the truck has been serviced really well with good quality oil so the engine is relatively clean. If you use any engine flush you will get similar results. BTW Quaker State oil is excellent oil.
Yet another great video!
That’s crazy cheap for the Shell Rotella.
I live in the European Union and I buy all my Amsoil stuff from either Poland or Germany and get it shipped to Sweden, where I live. I often by a lot of other chemicals together with the oil. This last time I bought Amsoil P.I. Performance, Amsoil Power Foam, Liqui Moly MAF sensor cleaner and Amsoil Engine Flush.
The Price for 7.57 liter (8 quarts) of Amsoil SS 0w-20 is less (CAD 143.47) than what I would have to pay for 5 liter of Toyota 0w-20 (approximately CAD 125.88). Liter wise the difference is more obvious Toyota 0w-20 costs CAD 25.20 and Amsoil Signature Series CAD 18.98. That Mobil 1 Oil filter is very good.
We can’t get Mobil 1 Oil filters in our area. I buy the Amsoil or Wix XP oil filters, whenever I can get them. They are hard to come by here in the EU. I mainly go for Amsoil oil filters due to the better filtration of their filter media.
I’ve actually just bought an endoscope in order to be able to monitor what the engine looks like inside before and after the treatments.
Great informative video 👍
Great video Alberta
The Engine Flush is the real deal. Made a difference in my neglected engine from the previous owner. After 35,000 miles, will continue to use the flush. I’m sure Liqu Moly is just as good if those that dislike Amsoil’s MLM and etc.
When you refilled with engine flush was the oil level above the H mark on the dipstick?
What about sending off your oil to a chemical analysis company between steps to see if that shows a more scientific / chemical / metal ppm stats between changes? Just a thought. I love Amsoil products. I think the proof is in how it sounds and drives after the flush, despite the visual appearance of the flush vs. non-flushed oil. Amsoil also makes an atf flush.
Amsoil has different tiers...don't have to go with the best....still better than rotella.... guaranteed...👍
At the price amsoil is charging you, rotella is the no brainer.
@@xxthehuskycaboosexx amsoil OE 0w-20 is $20.75 per gallon when buying as a preferred customer, and in a case of 12. It makes it worth it when you also buy their other really good products as you accumulate points that goes towards further discounts.
@@xxthehuskycaboosexx you might want to rethink that. It is not always about the price, but more of how it is made. The crude oil that is in conventional oil has sharp edge molecules ,That will scratch, and wear your engine more quickly, 100% synthetic has round marble shape molecules. Don't be fooled by the oil that says full synthetic. That is a lie. unless it says 100% synthetic, it's just another crude based oil. Synthetic oil, does not use crude oil as the base oil. which will help your engine to last longer.
@@LoveLikeaHurricane Well said.
Possibly the best way to tell if its working is to send out samples of the oils to a lab. That engine is probably pretty clean inside. I feel like Amsoil Engine Flush does work, especially in sludgy engines. Its probably like a mix of diesel fuel, kerosene and other additives tbh. I am going to try it in my 5.3 ls swapped Camaro here b4 my next oil change cause it was pretty sludgy when I bought it (200 bucks) however it runs really really good, lol. I got lucky. Good video man!
Hello Aaron, how did that go? I am an Amsoil dealer and I like to see what people like.
@@jdksynthetics I did have a slight lifter tick about 6 months ago. Turned out my pushrods were too short & my cheap header gaskets were leaking. I did however use a "lifter flush" additive and the combination of all 3 (longer pushrods, oem style manifold gaskets and the lifter flush) quieted everything down perfectly. If I was to use another flush for any reason I would use the Amsoil Engine Flush.
I think you have a well maintained 6.8. I found with fords that they tend to darken oil more, no matter the brand. My 5.4 f150 would always drain black no matter what oil I put in it. Had the dreaded spark plug launch from the engine syndrome this summer with it, traded it in for a Tacoma. But with my 8 years experience with the Ford, they definitely do darken oil.
What's with the plywood under the wheels of your M3?
Good vid 👌
special science cups. lmao!
great video man
Best way to check for sludge is to remove the rocker arm cover
Then do the flush and remove the rocker arm cover again to see with your eyes the difference
Also if it is gunked up and the flush works
Drop the oil pan and clean it.
The majority of the flush benefit is removing the residual dirty oil that will contaminate your final expensive oil. Just flush with cheap oil and don't introduce thinners that will dilute your final oil.
Looks like you have a keeper there.
I have done Flushes on Amsoil cars (my own) and have gotten much darker oil. Just a quick note if you take that truck to southern Florida or a desert in the summer switch to Amsoil 5W-20 for the extreme heat then change back to your normal thing when you get back --- high million and Florida plus 0 weight oil could total your connecting rod bearings 😢
The time to use Amsoil’s best oil is when the vehicle is new. At 250,000 miles on everyday average oils, we often bump it up to the next viscosity, which in this case is 5W-30 to combat the inevitable consumption of a high mileage engine. At times we have even gone to a 5W-40 or 10W-40 high mileage so that there is oil still on the dipstick when it comes back the next time. Some people don’t realize that as their engine ages they need to start checking oil in between oil changes and possibly even add some oil.
Now I'm confused, I was going to use engine flush after first video, now I doubt it works :S Anyway big thanks for making this another video.
Rather than using any kind of chemicals to flush my engine, I prefer to just reduce my OCI greatly for the first year. So I'll change my oil once a month for a year and let the oil do the cleaning slowly. Worked in my Duramax truck, bought it with 351k and the oil was very dirty. Now has 369k and the oil on the dipstick after 3k miles is still clean (helps that it's an LB7 and didn't come with EGR, but still impressive for a diesel). I use Rotella T4, try to grab 5 gal buckets of it when it goes on sale. Not a fan of synthetics in diesel engines.
What makes you dislike synthetic oil in diesel engines? I have recently bought an 06 GMC 2500hd LBZ Duramax with 273000 miles and I am going through all of the fluid changes to try and get the most life I can out of what is left of the truck.
I think your truck has had good regular maintenance. I have an old BMW that I've owned one year now. Although it has relatively low millage (120k kilometres) and runs good I changed the oil immediately after purchase and have been changing the oil every 5k kms it still gets dark rather quickly after an oil change.
You need to find a vehicle that for sure is sludged up. You have to pull a valve cover before and after to get a better idea of whats really going on
I just did the Amsoil flush and put in the Amsoil 5/30 now does having residual flush still in the motor cause any issues?
You got a clean engine. Bruh I've seen oil come out black with the flush on a slugded up engine when it showed dark brown on the stick before flushing then after adding the flush and running it showed black on dipstick before draining
Where did you get the Rotella 0W20 for gas? I have searched I can't find it even at Crappy Tire.
Amsoil flush is worth the money. It works. Feel the difference. But have to use Amsoil oil, like the signature model and Amsoil filter. Will feel the difference while driving. Little by little the engine will get cleaner and cleaner.
Changing oil every 3k miles - nothing is cheaper and better than that
I agree with your value for the money. Rotella synthetic is a heck of an oil. Honestly though, lose the additive. It upsets the balance the manufacturer did with theirs and can make things worse. Save you a few bucks too. Side note, I'm really surprised a diesel takes such a thin oil now a days. used to be 15W-40 almost always in my day. It took my old mechanic derriere a long time to get past thicker is better mentality.
Thanks is for the comment. Jay Leno and Bill @ PowerStroke Help.com both use AR9100 in their vehicles, and after those two endorsements I was sold. It completely saved my old 6.0 PSD from cold start stiction issues, and I was so happy with the product. The truck is this video is a 6.2L gas, hence the thin oil 👍🏻
@@AquaticLogic On high mileage engines it is not uncommon to go with a higher viscosity, but that Ford motor seems very well-maintained. I’d keep on pouring that viscosity into it. The additive is not a bad thing.
Great review. I don't think it does much ( Amsoil Flush )
Great video . But still haven't got a answer.Maybe you're engine is indeed clean.
Best way to test would be to open up the head and check the amount of gunk then run the same test and open up the head again. The question is how much the flush dissolves the gunk .
As for the cheaper oil you know maybe you have to do a shorter change interval but thats also depending on how you drive you're car. Never seen damaged engine because of cheap oil only bad and late maintenance.
Used oil analysis? Several good options out there that could have provided some quantitative data, at least the first time you did the treatment
You FLUSHED your money down the drain using the FLUSH!
The amsoil flush is made to break the sludge down on molecular level apparently. I'm betting that your vehicle is already pretty clean inside and whatever it did strip just bonded straight into the oil. Amsoil is just a petroleum detergent and isn't supposed to have harsh solvents like most flushes have. Maybe try it on a vehicle that you know isn't taken very good care of to see if it really makes a difference. I myself will rather rely on amsoil signature series detergent package to clean the inside of my engine. I've only done 1.5k miles on this oil and its already dark as hell . Also switching to amsoil for me solved a lifter tick issue so far in my volvo 850r with almost 150k miles.
I'm going to be switching to amsoil on my 05 GMC 2500 6.6 I also need to do my dif, transfer case, and transmission. Looking to replace the dif cover with a banks and the trans cover with a ppe low profile.
michaelfeher That Banks diff cover series on CZcams was friggin awesome. I loved how he empirically proved that 99% of that market were actually harming people’s diffs!
@@AquaticLogic here if the engine is dirty it will come out almost black watch this as before being flushed oil looked clean on dipstick of this video then really dirty in drain pan.
czcams.com/video/ek-EUNkt6wI/video.html
Where do you get your special science cups?
😂
Part City
A well serviced engine just won’t have the deposit buildup to darken the oil when flushed. You would need to pull a valve cover or use a borescope on a dirty engine for a true before and after test. It looks to me like the previous owner took good care of it.
If you said you're using the good stuff. Why you're not using Amsoil oil??? Rotella isn't it.
People forget to shift the tranny between Park, Reverse and Drive for several minutes.......This increases and decreases the internal engine pressure forcing the flushing agents into small hard to reach crevices.......
I think it looks green like antifreeze when it was new going in. But amsoil has 25k mile change interval
Hope you had fun scrubbing the oil off the driveway.
You come off as a man who actually maintains your engine properly. Maybe that’s why when guys like us try out these engine flush products we aren’t happy with the results. I think it’s geared more for those who are less involved with the in workings of their vehicles. That’s why I think these products don’t work well for engines who’s owners are meticulous about maintenance. I’m not shitting on amsoil or others because I do think there is good intent with the products. Just my thoughts
I would never use 0w-20 on anything especially a wore out truck. I'd use 5w-30 amsoil or pensoil platinum
It must feel nice to be smarter than Ford motor engineers.
Aquatic Logic it really all depends on where you live. Up north the thinner oil is better in the winter but should probably use something a little thicker isn’t he summer time down here in the south I use thicker oil year round 10/30 up to 20/50 in. Mid summer heat at temps hovering around 100 degrees daily the oil coolers can’t really efficiently cool the oil so it breaks down quicker
Yea, try that in the 0W-16 engines. I'd go a little thicker in racing or if you're a cross country driver through death valley, but manufacturers recommendation is the best.
Using the 20 oil is to get the truck to meet EPA standards, so it is not all about what is best for the vehicle
@@ryancovington5636 exactly. Thats why the 5.4s originally used 5w20 and then there was a tsb for owners to switch to 5w30.. same with the ecoboosts, in the early years they used 5w20 but now they use 5w30.
You can run signature series up to 25,000 miles are up to a year that oil is that good so you’re not really save anything by buying a cheaper oil
exactly! been a user since 1983. got 1982 yota 4x4 with 22r with 898000 miles - yeah you read correctly. just fyi al amatuzio was anal as hell about building the perfect lubricant - i knew him!
I think I want to do this as well but twice then put amsoil signature series oil in my jeep
So you spend $150.00 on oil and another $50.00 for 5 oil filters changing the oil 5 times. Roughly $200.00 I use amsoil and spend $100.00 on oil and $20 for there premium oil filter and change the oil every 25,000 miles. I don't know who your amsoil dealer is sounds like he's trying to give you the shaft. Why don't you become a dealer for amsoil.
Im a die hard amsoil guy but for flushes bg EPR has proven to be the strongest and most effective
Unless you replace 98% of the old oil, it will still darken and contaminate the new oil. 10-20% of the old oil will remain in these newer engines. You still will not be able to see a difference. You can know for certain using oil analysis with particle count. You can also do radial chromatography using blank business cards.
👍
Good job, someone did the experiment right
Also don't flush for more than 20 mins, thats not good
it's soft on engine thus the need to run longer than the teenager that does at quick lube & leaves sand size particles in your engine. I've only been using the Amsoil flush since 1983 so I'm the voice of EF Hutton on this
This is probably as reasonable a go at it for a layperson you can ask for really. You have no skin in the game other than seeing if the product is worthwhile/ cost effective. Without a chemical analysis of the samples, it doesn't look like there's a difference. Maybe it would make more of a difference on an engine that has been neglected but you're kinda just doing wheelies at that point, a flush would be a band aid... Oil already has detergents in it, I'm coming up on a first mileage mark that I plan on maintaining going forward. Every 30K miles ish, do a fresh oil flush just prior to a scheduled oil change. Like a tank of gas worth of driving with sacrificial oil, a week, whatever. Top side oil removal so that your effort isn't great, just oil out, oil in, factory oil filter for me is 3 bucks... Under 30 bucks(even if you stick to Mobil 1) for the oil usually. Not a ton of money. Something around 60 bucks ish every couple years or so depending on how much you drive. Full size truck oil change math is different obviously but the cost of engine failure is as well.
Thanks for the interesting experiment. I do the same and buy my oil half price at CanTire too. Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w20 synthetic. 30$ Canadian. 3 jugs is 2 changes on my Ram 1500 5.7hemi. IMO If you change your oil regularly and use high quality oil/filter then it cleans the engine as it is supposed to do. No flushing needed. If you neglect maintenance and use bargain oil then flush away. Lol.
The best is $34.50 a gallon, beats everything at that point......100 bucks with a filter is dirt cheap insurance 🤠🤪
Hey bro I WANT YOUR BREEDER FOR THE BOESMANI RAINBOWFISH YOU HAD, i have some but want some of the gorgeous ones you had :(
Where do you live?
I think the amsoil flush Is a great product that does great cleaning but the engine was so clean that it couldn’t do anything.
Yeah I think your right. Previous owner took good care of the oil 👍🏻
Amsoil proves their oil is better with lab tests, but the difference you need to consider is what kind of daily driving you do, I use Amsoil because I do a lot of short trips ...If you're doing longer drives daily like 40 - 100 miles a day, then the cheaper oil with regular changes ( 4 to 5000 mi ) intervals is about as good ...my 2 cents ..!
It will cost you more in the long run, using the cheaper oil. for the price, and also the wear of your engine.
@@redesigns1219 Transmissions using Amsoil run 20-50 degrees cooler! Think about what its doing for your engine. Full synthetic is the best solution for price, reliability, and everything in between.
"I got negative backlash on the previous video, I bought 5w30 oil, yes I know it's the wrong one" you set yourself up for more negativity on that one 😂
Quaker State and Penzzoil is also owned by Shell
Take a small sample of the flushing oil after running the engine, then add the flush product and repeat the engine run and drain. This way you are comparing the flushing oil with the flushing agent. They are often the same when you have a clean engine. If not, then you are truly flushing gunk from a really dirty engine. A car you have maintained properly will get little benefit from the engine flush.
So are we cleaning gunk and varnish or just flushing the old dirty oil?
Too many people put in a flushing agent and say "Wow, look how dirty the oil is, this stuff really works." Is the oil flushing residual dirty oil and sediments, or is the flushing agent truly cleaning varnish and gunk?
Kind of important to know which is of the two options is happening. When the flush oil sample alone is the same as the flush agent oil sample, you'll know your car’s engine is clean and regular oil changes with modern oils will require no more flushing agents. If the oil gets markedly dirtier with the addition of the flush agent, you’ll know you need to keep cleaning out the engine build up. Normally, this won’t be the case.
Use either a quick step agent like Moly or a 1000 mile clean like Auto-RX or Marvels, but please don’t risk engine or seal damage with kerosene or diesel. One advantage of the “slow burn” cleaners is that you are allowing the fresh oil to clean over time vs. wasting oil with quick clean multiple flushes that might be completely unnecessary and expensive.
Once you have “cleaned” your engine, regular oil changes will likely be enough and no more flushes should be required. However, if you are OCD like me, do an engine flush when you change your transmission/differential fluid/oil, every 30k/60k miles, or use the slow burn additive every other oil change
I'd highly recommend using a better oil filter. Those look like Honeywell (Fram-style) with cardboard end-caps. Are you gonna trust cardboard end-caps to your V8? Especially when every other filter manufacturer uses metal end-caps? A crime that they make those that way in the first place. Brief test, I know, but you couldn't spare the extra penny? Napa's basics are made by Wix.
Also, pertaining to the oil color, I'd like to see what's sitting at the bottom of the oil drain pan. People talk about a sludge pellets draining out and settling at the bottom of their drain pan after using the engine flush.
Being a CZcamsr is a thankless job, I know! Always a correction, always a technicality!
I used a cheap oil filter for 60 minutes for the flush... I then used a high-quality filter with the Rotella and Archoil. If you want to waste your money go right ahead.@@dirkmcghee1604
IMO Amsoil doesn’t make placebos .
Why Rotella and Archoil over Amsoil Signature?
💰💰💰
the money you spent on all of that yot could of just got the AMSOIL am i wrong?
price, he said that many a times. At $15 a quart it adds up in those big diesels.
What planet is amsoil 15 a quart?
@@srf6161 after you add tax, almost everywhere. I googled "Amsoil $15 a qt" and got dozens of hits in the high 13's. You do the math.
250,000K?
is that kilometer ?
Yes. That’s around 150,000 mi.
Ya , I love Amsoil, but they're sales system sucks.
Chances are whoever sold you the truck flushed it prior to sale. That's what I have done many times.
Shell is probably the best everyday, everyman oil there is. If you stick to your maintenance schedule of max 7500 mile oil changes, you will never go wrong. Shell perfected their additive packages to absolutely the best there is. No need for Amsoil if you do the above correctly....
Only true full synthetic is quality. Longer oil change intervals, cooler temps, better cleaning. No brainer. Amsoil.
@@peterichmond4649 Amsoil isn't available in certain countries.
With the money your spending for the Archoil added to the Shell, why not just use Amsoil without the Archoil? It will break down to about the same price. And you will be getting better protection with Amsoil.
That is absolutely not true. 7oz of potassium nanoborate is game-changing, having the lowest coefficient of friction in lubrication elements. Jay Leno puts it in a lot of his vehicles and that dude does not mess around.
Aquatic Logic So you are saying that Shell Truck Oil with Archoil is better protection than Amsoil Signature Series?
@@BW-kv9wj No, I am saying that any top-tiered synthetic oil with AR9100 is better than Amsoil.
Aquatic Logic Hmmmm. That’s very interesting. Is this an opinion or have you seen side by side oil analysis and wear testing against straight Amsoil vs other synthetic with Archoil?
cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1997/2921/files/1908458A-B.pdf?16737099748811193974
I am guessing the Amsoil flush did something or else the oil that you put in a second time would have come out cleaner if the flush wasn't added. Don't be a hater.
JK solid video though
It's ordinary soft flushing. Safe stuff. Bc if u use aggressive stuff u can destroy engine
If it works to fast bigger chunks, will come off and plug off ports and galley ways
It is not a chisel. Its a chemical additive that progressively dissolves sludge. Even if you think your asinine idea is true, the large chunk thats broken off will still be dissolved in the solution.
Shell makes quaker state, bet there's not to much difference between the two .
No test is perfect,. Now...you need to do a flush with Seafoam. After watching many videos comparing Seafoam to Amsoil flush, I always use Seafoam. I have seen Seafoams results many a time in my containers, and it works awesome. I do not think Amsoil flush does much at all. But then, a 15 minute run time, to me is not adequate, where as Seafoam, you can drive with it in for 200-400 miles..
Shell they have promo 10$ off per jug
because it is cheap oil, du
Why the hell wouldn't you put amsoil oil in and an amsoil filter? Cheap filter and oil equal s short life.
Science cup is a keg cup lol
Well done! Now just maintain your truck, including 8000 km (5000 mi) oil and filter changes, and you should be good to go for many, many years!
Old school = change oil every 3000 miles. No substitute. AMSOIL Signature only.
I didn't see any difference. The people that had that truck must have changed oil on a regular basis.
AMSOIL. NO COMPETITORS on EARTH. RINSE AND REPEAT.
Just change your oil regularly and dont bother with the snake oil!!
best comment in the whole thread. use the cheapest synthetic possible, change it out at the recommended interval, and be done with it.
@@EulogizingSleep What do you call Synthetic any ways? If it is made with any crude oil, it is not Synthetic, but actually crude oil, with additives.
great job... engine flush are BS. just change oil and keep going
Use CLEAR CUPS.
Faa--!! 🙄
Amsoil its not the best oil on the market! The best oil in the market it’s the one recommended by the engine manufacturer. Before they recommend an oil to be used in a certain engine, many tests are made! Go oem with filters and oil and respect the oil intervals and u ll be good to go!
You cannot be serious. Do you only run OEM tires too? Its like saying OEM tires are the best tire because they tested it (which is true) and no other tire could perform better. Have you ever considered manufactures do a cost/benefit analysis, and pick the cheapest option that performs to a set standard. There are better oils and tires out there, dont be a sheep following dealership BS.
Science doesn't lie. Amsoil is the best by far.
Another Amsoil hater that’s never used the product. Their opinions are invalid and typical of a hater stuck to their old ways of thinking. Bad comedy.
@@AquaticLogic yes, well said
@@stevenharris2230 unless its being spewed by a government agency...
Thanks for uploading to remind me to unsubscribe
bye hater!
Not gunna lie it's kinda shitty to post a comment that you are unsubscribing. Is it impossible to just walk away quietly?
this dude uploads videos of fish, definitely a beta incel
lol