If You LOVE One Of These Additives, DON'T Watch This Video!
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- čas přidán 12. 05. 2024
- Additives, some people swear by them. Others swear at them, so who's right? As a Certified Lubrication Specialist, I reveal the TRUTH about both Fuel and Motor Oil additives via laboratory testing and real world used oil analysis examples.
CORRECTION: The boiling point of Sea Foam is below 100C (I said Fahrenheit). The flash point is below 100F, which is what I meant to say.
For more about used oil analysis, check out www.speediagnostix.com
For the full seminar on additives, check out this recording:
• The Good, Bad and Ugly...
For a more in-depth discussion on oil change intervals, check out this video: • The truth about oil ch...
To learn more about how to prevent LPSI, check out this video:
• How To Prevent LSPI Fr...
Here are the links to the products I used to do the tests.
Glass Beaker: amzn.to/3O3LYMJ
Frother: amzn.to/4bcsL5B
To learn more about injector deposits and fuel detergents, check out this video: • Are You Accidentally S...
For more about my Dad, check out this great video from @Stapleton42 • Lake Speed Shows Us Hi...
Who is the @themotoroilgeek ? I'm a Society of Tribologists and Lubrication Engineers Certified Lubrication Specialist and Oil Monitoring Analyst (I've maintained both of those for over a decade). I also worked for Joe Gibbs Racing for 12 years as their lubricant specialist. During that time, we worked with Wix Filters (one of our sponsors) to test and develop filters for our race engines. We also worked with Lubrizol and Chevron-Phillips Chemical to test and develop oils for our race cars. Following that, I was the head of R&D for Driven Racing Oil. During that time, I formulated and tested over 50 products. We also worked with Cummins, Comp Cams, Oak Ridge National Labs and General Motors on various R&D products. Those efforts are recorded in peer reviewed white papers published by SAE International and ACS Sustainable Chemistry journals. I also own and operate SPEEDiagnostix, which provides used oil analysis.
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases That just means that I may earn a small commission, at no cost to you, if you choose to purchase that product from Amazon.com. It is a way to help support the work of The Motor Oil Geek.
#motoroil #syntheticoil #oilchange #additives - Auta a dopravní prostředky
WOW! I'm blown away by the response to this video. Thanks to everyone who has watched and commented. Whether you agree or disagree with me, I appreciate you taking the time to watch the video and for caring enough to share your thoughts. There is no way I can respond to all these comments, so please take this as my thank you to you!
You have opened pandoras box :) don't stop now haha.
Thank you for all the information you've kept me from putting Seafoam in my oil crankcase, as the bottle says it's completely safe.... At this point, I don't plan on using it as a fuel additive anymore to clean my injectors.
Please review professional products offered at dealers like BG
@@BluRibbonReviews smart move!
Lake jr please review zmax I use it to remove carbon from rings and valves it feels like my engine has more compression ,power
From my understanding, Seafoam is meant to be added 100-300 miles BEFORE an oil change. It is meant to help break down deposits so they are removed when changing your oil. It is not meant to be added with fresh new oil as an additive.
Exactly. It's understandable that adding seafoam to fresh oil will have an effect on it but that's not it's intended use. The way I understand Seafoam to be used is that it's intended to act as a solvent and remove sludge deposits right before an oil change
But you might as well add it just 1 car drive before an oil change - because, as LSJ showed, it evaporates at typical oil operating temp, it basically has up to the point of the oil reaching operating temp to actually do anything.
@@RyTrapp0 Since it evaporates at such a low temperature, i can't see it being of any use at all. Didn't sound like he did either.
Doesn't matter it likely doesn't even last 1 mile regardless of when you use it.
You missed the point.
If Seafoam degrades NEW oil this much, imagine how it degrades USED oil.
Grabing all that wear for 300 miles before an oil change is questionable.
If you're using good oil there shouldn't be any crapp in your engine anyway.
THINK ABOUT IT.
******
Berryman B12 is much much better for unsticking rings and cleaning injectors at 1/2 the price.... As if that matters.
I love that-"I used brand X additive and picked up 5 mpg." Well I used brand X additive and I lost 5 main bearings." LOL. I wasn't expecting that. Hilarious.
I used brand X and created the Power Puff girls.
I used brand X and got scurvy.
@@MendicantBias1 Er ah, that's black syphilis yo. Didn't you read the instruction tome?! Ee gads man, you need a doctor!
I used brand X a d my 95 dodge 12 valve will do mach 1 now
@@MendicantBias1did you drink it instead of putting it in the car? Common installation mistake
Man that's awesome. I've told people for a long time now not to add stuff to the oil, and now I have proof. Thanks.
Was just recommended one of your videos and wow😮. I love this type of content that isn't speculation but rather let's the hard factual science speak for itself. There is no need for bias as ultimately we all want products that deliver what we pay for. I'm also glad that you talked about the value of fuel additives in order to balance the content and show that it's not all a sham.
"As the oil life is shortened, the deposits will increase." That's specifically why I've never felt comfortable with 10K(+) mile oil changes, even with the best oil.
Agree , I don't even go half that .. dont care what the bottle say I go by what car tells me and how oil is looking and smelling and if it still had any "tak" to it still otherwise between 1 and 3k I change oil .. peace and love bro keep it rad stay safe and build on l8z
Use ACEA oils, they have a much better additive package.
Oil analysis is the only way I trust past 5k. I've seen diesel engines with bypass filtration make it 15k on a change, with full-flow filter changes at 3k and bypass at 5k. I've heard of them going longer. Thing to remember there is that removing the fine contamination slows the other degradation, as well as every filter change you are replacing 1-4 quarts of engine oil, depending how big your filter is. So you get a small refresh of your additive package at that point, which helps stretch the life.
But sending an oil sample out every 2-3k is good practice. It isn't terribly expensive, and can tell you a whole lot about the health of your engine. You can even see if your air filter/clean air ducting is not doing it's job right.
@@typrus6377 I have a Mercedes B class diesel from 2012 and I change the oil every time the car sends me to to so. So far so good with almost 300k km on it. And if I'm honest I have no idea how many km intervals is my car recommending.
It's totally fine unless you're doing frequent shift trip or doing track days. I changed oil in my 2005 BMW 530i every 15,000 miles like the book says and I sold it to a buddy with 400,000 miles and he is still enjoying the car!
I was always under the impression that Seafoam wasn't an additive, but a solvent/cleaner that you were supposed run only for a very short time just prior to an oil-change...
Correct
given the boiling point and water absorbtion, sounds like Seafoam is mostly alcohol.
@@ctrlaltdebug From what I can find, the functional ingredients are pale oil, naphtha, and isopropyl alcohol, basically a combination of lightweight solvents. It would probably be good at removing deposits if used to soak a cold engine
You're 100% right, the bottle even says if I recall correctly "add for 100 miles before an oil change". Also in the video, he said fuel additives are good didn't he? Guess what Seafoam does.. oh, you can put it in your fuel and it cleans your fuel system?! sayy whattt?! No way! I've saved plenty of beaters with Sea Foam and MMO. Bought an OBS gunked to non belief and was struggling to hold 5 psi oil pressure. Guess what happened after putting in some good ole Sea Foam? One FILTHY oil change and 60 psi oil pressure cold startup. Same truck also had a small leak at the rear main seal. After I changed the oil that had Sea Foam in it, I put 1 quart of MMO + 4 quarts motor oil, and now, you won't believe me.. but that rear main seal hasn't leaked since then. I wonder what he would think about the OGs who would put kerosene in the crankcase every now/then and let their car idle for 2-3 hours before changing it and never having any issues with their vehicles?
You are correct. I've been using Seafoam this way for decades. I add half a can to the oil and the other half to the gas tank about 200 miles before each oil change. Helps keep the engine and fuel system nice and clean.
I have 40 years in oil sample issues with Cat. As a Tech a Manager and a machine shop owner we will agree on use the correct oil and change it on time the best one thing anyone can do. One extended oil change will cost you more than any oil change possibly causing catastrophic failure. The # 1 issue I find is electrolosis from running nasty coolant or water. 9 out of 10 engines that must be taken out of service is generally from holes in liners. Gas engines you have an advantage on me. Mixing the additives with an aeration type mixer at room temperature may not be super accurate as oil pumps are gear driven for that reason not as much air. Good show.
Thanks for sharing the details about the bad coolant.
Have used Amsoil signature series exclusively in my vehicles , the longest I kept one was 350000 miles , still running like new . No additives needed .
Scamsoil. Your a sucker I see
As a State government worker we were required to add a quart of Hyperlube, company was homebased here, at each oil change in our State issued vehicles. After a few years and a series of unexplained engine failures, Ford tested, found the additive and determined overtime it restricted oil passages, which caused bearing failure. No more additive or lose your warranty. Now we just use engine oil.
Exactly.
A manufacturer would never recommend any additive, only the specified, undiluted oil recommended by them.
Adding any additives would immediately void the warranty.
I’m guessing Ford told your dept to go whistle for the repairs.
Wait a minute, so you work for the criminal organization known as gov stealing money from my paycheck, taking food out of my kids mouths because your too lazy and cowardly to get a real job in the private sector? Well at least I don't have to steal from your earnings through taxation to exist. Your welcome 🙏
Are you sure it wasn't Lucas Oil Stabilizer? In my large engine motorcycle I used Lucas O.S. and it did what you mentioned. While using Hyper-Lube O.S. in its twin bike did not.
My issue was the Lucas as it drained down the engine block walls left a gummy film and stopped the Neutral switch from operating. Currently after 100,000 miles Hyper-Lube didn't.
@@fm00078 You don't need any snake oil, just regular (7-10k) oil changes
It's bc the company owner had friend or family in the government
...extortion.
Oil has definitely changed a lot over the years. I remember back in the mid 80's when you pulled the valve covers off an engine with over 80,000 miles you had to use a spoon to scoop all the hardened crud out of the rockers. Now, I've worked on engines with way over 100,000 miles on them and they still look clean. Shows the big improvement in the packages in the oil.
Back when o/c intervals were at 3000 miles
Yet we see cam and lifter failure in all brands now. But I suspect it's a engineering problem.
PCV improvements are a major factor in this also. Keeping the crankcase in vacuum at all times greatly extends oil life.
Oil technology back then was very basic
Popped the valve cover on my old '06 Corolla with 240k miles and it was spotless, no varnish or discoloration, let alone sludge. Maintenance in the first 140k is unknown. Maintenance by me in the latter 100k was 4k-5k mile OCIs using Pennzoil Platinum 5w30. Proof that frequent changes with a high quality oil is the best way to keep your motor clean. Oh yeah, and it still doesn't burn any measurable amount of oil between changes...
Most of the comments on this video are not regarding additives. People are ignorantly discussing oil change intervals and oil in general. Nothing to do with additives, except maybe where it goes. Not all additives go in the engine oil, and not all additives are for the purpose the video is discussing. Read the directions people. Additives are not meant to enhance the oil. It's meant to be used as a treatment for various purposes and degrees. It's like going to a pharmacy and assuming all medications are for one purpose, like maybe improving your blood. Take all the medications/treatments you want after you kidnap the pharmacist, then take everything, and then if your health/blood is not improved or you die (which is more likely) do not blame the product/company... you are the ignorant one for not reading up on the treatment documentation and/or speaking to your doctor/pharmacist. This video does prove one point, though, and that is, DO NOT BELIEVE THIS GUY!!! This guy claims to be an expert and claims science, but you can get more expert and science out of a childrens coloring book than this guy. When did he EVER explain/discuss what the company/product was claiming to be used for by even the minimum of reading the label? When? Never! Why is he doing an oil analysis if these products aren't meant to enhance the oil? They have a purpose, and the oil isn't one of them. Maybe he should be looking to see if the leak is fixed, or the oil consumption is fixed, or the internal engine parts are cleaner/better-shape, or if the engine got better mpg, or if the polllutants and emmissions p420 code went away, or if the engine lasted longer, or if the engine stayed cooler, or if the engine made more power, or if the engine ran smoother etc etc etc. Downvote this video!
Most responses here are emotional, not rational. They don't even think about whats the purpose of the additive, and how much amount supposed to be mixed, whats the expected results are. Example of Lucas, irrespective of its good or bad, how come Calcium(1230ppm) and other additives go down by 3rd (443PPM) when you only added 1/4 in volume. If my math is correct, we would have Calcium 922 PPM. It can't be 443 PPM. I bet he is trying to stir things up so he can get views as he know which is hornets nest to stir. I bet sometime soon he will come with an additive that fixes all these issues. I do watch his videos to glean anything useful, but getting tired of his antics.
Wish your comment was more visible. Imagine doubling the butter in a muffin recipe and someone poo-pooing it because it spikes the fat/calorie content. One knows that going in. The results, how it tastes, that's the point. I think the closest we get here to testing the point of any of the additives is the viscosity boost from the lucas stabilizer. For various reasons, plenty of folks change their oil on time using the OEM recommended oil type and viscosity and still have major problems. Engines are far from perfect and so are oil formulations.
Rather than "they're all crap" the advice I'd give anyone is learn about what any given additive is, how it's supposed to work, pitfalls to look out for, and to do their own testing. By saying they are all crap is essentially declaring his science the end all be all [how unscientific] and encouraging his watchers to remain ignorant.
Use MMO in my fuel system and it works well. I would never put anything in my oil. Great video
The best oil additive is fresh oil, meaning frequent oil changes. Some people, for various reasons just cannot bring themselves to do that. Also, the use of oil additives has a strong psychological component.
It does, and even though I thought "this probably is just dogshit", I put an additive in. A liqui moly one. I'm happy to have found this. But now... My engine sounds... not broken, but weirdly different, and my oil smells fuely. I want to loose as much of this additive as possible. What should I do? Or is this probably unrelated? Or is it too late and my engine has a problem...?
Well... I've learned: No fin additives. Oil already has enough of them.
Change oil again, that'll bring the oil to normal levels again. As for extra engine wear, it is already done. You can tear it down or keep driving it.
If you really want to purge it do a double oil change with some driving in between. Driving to flush/ mix the oil that is in the engine.
@@nordlicht1881 I wouldn't worry about a short term additive. Especially Liqui Moly since theirs seem to be relatively benign. It will be gone with the next oil change.
Most people couldn't find a drain plug if you were pointing at it...
Must be an american thing. I don't know anyone using them here.
Seafoam singlehandedly unclogged the injectors on my diesel dump truck. WELL worth the money.
You must have used it in the fuel then? 🙂
@@mcplutt yes. I know in the video he showed it in the oil. Terrible idea using it there.
@MeltingRubberZ28 it's good under the correct circumstances, had a v10 dodge that only held 5 quarts of oil after a change, put seafoam in the oil for like 100miles changed the oil and way more came out than ever had before. Truck now takes the correct 7 quarts of oil per change.
Google project farm seafoam , I’m a believer it works. I’m a nobody, but I like seafoam and motorkote.
It's a fuel additive not oil.
Ive been using Liqui Moly MOs2 for quite some time and ive felt both my engines run much smoother and start much quieter. It's nice to see it just adds Molybdenum and it creates no conflict with the other additives that the oil already has.
I really appreciate the work you do to make this information accessible to the laymen.
I use Seafoam frequently. I've used it on an old Harley shovelhead, bore scoped it before and after. It did remove some carbon off the piston, and cleaned the intake and exhaust runners a bit. I have also used to go clean out gunked up carb jets when feeling lazy and it worked.
Never used it in oil, but my understanding is that it's not a long term oil additive. It's intentionally a detergent supposed to be used very short term and exclusively for the purpose of cleaning deposits.
That is how I use it. To the fuel system right before oil changes. Clean and go. I don't want it in my new oil.
Actually came here to point this out. Otherwise I agree with everything in the vid.
Italian tune-up, run engine at ½ throttle while pouring a quart of brake fluid down the carburettor. Smokes like a mo-fo for a few min, but scrubs ALL the carbon out. Hate to know what else goes with it.... 😂
Yes. I was taught to add Sea Foam to oil the day you plan to change oil and then go for a 20-100 mile drive to work it in. Then change oil. I have never added it to fresh oil.
If you're going to flush. CHANGE THE FILTER FIRST. And then change it again after you drain your flushing oil. If an engine needs cleaning, the filter is almost certainly going to be full of dirt and already bypassing... I just do short cycles on oil. go to sub 1,000 mile oil and filter changes. Cleans up in a few oil changes. It's the safe way to do it. But at the very least don't be flushing an engine with a filter that might be bypassing due to being full of dirt.
You're slowly becoming my favorite motor oil consultant, sir.
In my case, it was quite rapid. Lake Jr really knows his 💩
Seriously?
And who is it that's in competition with him that he's slowly gaining credibility over?
Some flunky like Project Farm? From day one I've laughed at his videos and how he thinks he's proving anything, if he or anyone watching his videos knew anything at all about conducting experiments they'd know that there's these things called "controls" that need to be put in place to eliminate the possibility of the environment around him along with other factors affecting the results, and of extreme importance, especially with tests on engine's that are run, is the fact that it takes hundreds of samples to remove variables from the equation, everyone knows about the occasional Lemon that comes off an assembly line well then how does Mr "My Labroratory Is The Shed Behind My House" know he didn't get a lemon engine when he does his "one has the oil additive and the other one doesn't" tests? He doesn't, it takes the scientifically analyzed results from hundreds of engine's from entire fleets, like taxi and delivery services and other large fleets, with periodic oil samples taken from them to get a true basis to formulate an average, and he ain't doin' that in the shed behind his house.
If the "top of their class that's why they got hired by the oil companies" chemical engineer's wanted those chemicals in their oil they'd have put them in there from day one, it's comical to believe that some flunky who couldn't get hired by the oil companies has come up with some combination of chemicals that makes their oil work better than they could, and that another flunky in his shed behind his house can prove it, absolutely comical.
@@dukecraig2402 How many racing teams engine programs have you worked for? Let's see your qualifications and certifications.
@@jblank74 He was talking about Project Farm, not Lake Speed Jr.
@@dukecraig2402 Very impressive! ;-)
I am so grateful for dedicating your time to educate the public at large
Thank you!
Thanks mate. You've changed my bad habit and saved me money. I over service my car and change the oil & filter every 3000 miles. No more oil additives.
@@themotoroilgeekwhat's you thoughts on whether to change oil say each year even thought say half the specified change miles/kilometers have been done?... Like does oil in your tests accumulate moisture from sitting around if you have done such tests?
Man I wish you could make like 300% more videos somehow of the same quality. So many topics I'd love your approach on in relation to oil, engine health, other vehicle fluids.This testing is the most detailed & informative I have seen
"Don't put that crap in your engine" is the best comment I heard. Yep, use the oil that fits your needs with no additives.
yeah, i was one of the additive fans, after switching to shell rotella or rimula, however you wanna call it, i never use any additives... Good oil is all that you need... Anything else is just plain compromise...
I’f you change the oil regularly and the engine is running healthy you don’t need extra additives.
This is the video we needed. FR3 gained popularity in the diesel community because Hot Shot’s tested it in a Cummins on Firepunk Diesel’s dyno. They showed that FR3 slightly increased the power. After seeing your video, it would have done that because it lowered the viscosity but it’s actually INCREASING wear. Very good stuff here that a lot of people are going to hate to hear
if you have excessive carbon deposits, increased wear can be a desirable result - briefly.
Everything has a tradeoff.
I run the fr3 with the synthetic blend penn grade diesel oil in my 1200 hp cummins that was actually built at firepunk ... im thinking about thinking about not using it anymore
Awesome! Thank you for taking the time to make this. I have always used "just plain oil" of the same brand throughout the life of an engine. Never used additives because others have said similar things as to what you have proven here. The only product you mention which I have used is Marvel Mystery Oil, but not in the engine oil sump. It has helped me with non-destructive disassembly of rusted mechanisms, after which they are rebuilt and then oiled with what they are designed to have.
Hi Lake, First off, THANK YOU FOR HELPING YOUR AUDIENCE!! We truly appreciate what you share. I'm not much of a tune-up in a bottle mechanic short of gas additives to keep injectors clean. That being said, years back, I tried and liked Slick 50. Then, at some point, the company sold, and the recipe changed. I didn't catch it right away, but when I did, I stopped using it. Now, recently, the original Slick 50 inventor started selling the original formula, updating the technology and promoting it as classic or original or something like that verbiage. It would be fantastic if you could include both versions in your next oil additive rundown. Please keep up the great work. You rock buddy! TJ
Seafoam is the only thing I use in that lineup, and NEVER in the crankcase. Gas tank only and I feed it through the vacuum line sometimes too. It saved me many carb rebuilds on small engines. I also use it as a fuel stabilizer and buy it by the gallon! Just my $0.02
I don't usually use motor oil additives. BUT, in defense of Marvel Mystery Oil, I must say I used it once to find out if it would free-up a stuck valve in my 91 Volvo 740 2.4 non-turbo with 360,500 miles on it. I added one quart of MMO to a quarter tank of gas ( 4 gallons), and added one quart of MMO to the crankcase (total of 4.5 quarts). After driving the car for 32 miles the valve started to move, and when I reached 60 miles the valve started functioning properly. New subscriber.
Adding a quart of ATF to the oil will do the same thing as MMO and will be cheaper
Have used it in oooold airplanes that have been sitting. It worked.
@@hotrodray6802 yup! I've commented a few times that I've heard of it help increase compression test numbers on aircraft engines that are below min spec with success. It's not an anti-wear additive as tested, but actually intentionally the opposite.
Mmo has been used since before ww2 used in plane engines to industrial motors why is it bad now?
@@williamtarpley4025it's not, it's just overpriced atf fluid.
Thanks for the info, completely changed my mindset! I've used Prolong on several engines, and never noticed anything bad, but seeing your analysis results, I will never use an additive in my engine oil ever again! And I'm forwarding your video to my mechanic buddy!
One one car, I drained some oil, filled it with marvel, drove for a bit, drained, replaced with fresh oil. The crank case looked like it just came off the showroom, the exahust even smelled like a new car again & the gas mileage improved. Of course this car was catless, so your results may vary in terms of exhaust scent.
I put a little lemon oil in my engine for that fresh exhaust scent.
@@bananarobotoverlord I jam freshly picked lavender in my crankcase
OMG TY for doing this. I'm a fleet Manager for a large company in the Northeast and I just took over a year ago. There is an entrenched belief among some of our mechanics that Lucas is helping with our aging fleet. I have tried to tell them that all we are doing is thickening the oil. I have tried to tell them If you truly believe that a higher viscosity is the right answer for engines that idle a lot and have high mileage, then just use a thicker grade. Now I have my proof. TY so much for giving me a reason to dump the expensive snake oil.
That Lucas oil stabilizer is only used to store engines, put it in and run it for 10 minutes and shut it off. It will cling to the surfaces better and prevent corrosion. It's not a anti-wear additive.
Naw, then they'd be losing money, they want you to use it all the time! I call it Lucas mucus ! Lol
@@plav032yep. It's not a fair comparison. Basically an internal fogging
Remember the plastic Lucas gearboxes in the Otto parts stores? I used to think, "How is GLUE supposed to give me better mileage?"
Apparently, I was right!
@@garychandler4296🎉
I predict this video is going to get massive viewership as it gets shared on forums and discussions all over the internet. Outstanding info. Hopefully this helps people ignore the nonsense marketing and keep some of their money. Thank you!!
Absolutely! Save your money!!! Thanks for the kind words.
Yes and there is going to be some brands that are not going to be very happy with the truth being out how they are ripping us off.
@@Ron_Masterjohngood!
Slick 50! 😂
@@user-sf7kl9uh7k Jeez, is that stuff still around?
My uncle got our grandpas 2001 Dakota, and recently it lost a lot of compression in one cylinder and had misfiring issues. I suggested engine restore, he poured a container worth in and the compression came back. He is still driving that tired ole dakota. Its great if you just have nothing to lose.
I have successfully used Marvel Mystery Oil as a way to "free up" sticking, noisy hydraulic lifters. I only replace 1 quart of the engine's oil capacity and run it a few times up to operating temperature. Then change out the oil and filter. No long-term usage as implied here. In most cases, it would clear up the noisy lifter issue. Then back to telling the operator to keep the oil changes on schedule to prevent a recurrence. (Usually, the issue started due to missed oil change intervals and operating with low oil volume which over stresses the oil that is remaining in the engine).
Otherwise, as Lake says, I never add anything to a good quality motor oil of the correct viscosity. Good advice here in this video backed by sound science. Great job Lake! Now do me a favor and stop biting your lip!
Thanks for sharing your thoughts and experiences
I worked 22 years at an oil packaging facility, in blending and testing. We heavily relied on Lubrizol, Chevron/Oronite and Ethyl additive companies for guidance. All preached that modern engine oils are finely tuned blends, that work well when changing oil regularly. Additives only unbalance the chemical composition of the engines oil and weren’t necessary and weren’t recommended. Shorter drain intervals were recommended over adding any store bought additives, as they are mostly marketing gimmicks....yielding 💰💰💰
💯 Fact!
Lubrizol is the GOAT. Literally invented ZDDP. They’re forthcoming with information and test results too.
and now the auto OEMs are trying to sell us 10,000mile oil change intervals + lifetime tranny fluid SMDH
@@MarkTrades__ And they're right. That trans fluid will last the life of your vehicle when it dies from the transmission seizing up.
@@randomusermaximuss LOL EXACTLY 🤣🤣
Definitely need to do this is with fuel additives to see how it would affect the oil by being in the gas.
I was always told by mechanics and oil company reps that fuel additives should be used up (i.e. run the tank down) then do an oil change. Because yes, they will have an effect on the oil.
@@DeuceDeuceBravowell that’s probably important…
@@DeuceDeuceBravo not true. fuel additives are designed for continual use without oil changes. Read the prints from redline and techron.
@@DeuceDeuceBravo Well he just finished saying in the video to use fuel additive cleaners to keep injectors clean and he didn't say anything about changing oil right after. I believe he was talking about diesel injectors but i would assume it would apply to gas engines too.
@@DeuceDeuceBravothere’s no way a fuel cleaner can affect the oil. That would only be an issue if the piston rings were not 100% sealing meaning you have a loss of compression. Fuel is injected then burned if you have a bad ring then it could mix with the oil other then that it won’t affect the oil.
Thank you for your honesty and Truth. 🙏
Interesting... I'm not a chemist but have has chemistry in college and can follow what you are demonstrating with you analyst... I stop using additives long ago in fear that would accelerated seal failure by harding them and creating leaks. You have solidified my decision.
Thank You for the time you put into your testing.
*I'm unaccustomed to CZcams videos that actually have informed substance. Well done!*
Better start looking around then because there are a lot of good informative Channels on a lot of topics. Automotive repair for one: ScannerDanner, South Main Auto, Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics, Diagnose Dan, The Car Care Nut (mostly Toyotas on his), etc. Of course, one has to be aware that there are those who only think they know what they are doing on a variety of topics.
@@KStewart-th4sk Hey thanks for all those recommendations! Really appreciate it.
Look up project farm
@@KStewart-th4sk I am very fortunate to have The Car Care Nut located so close to me in south suburban Chicago.
I agree, 6:45 do not add anything to fully-formulated motor oil. If it's lacking something research a better quality oil
Spot on.
@@user-sf7kl9uh7k Period
Exactly! If you think your oil is lacking something, use a better oil. Don't gamble being a shade tree chemist adding your special sauce to your engine oil, that's nonsense.
@@bobbygetsbanned6049 Unfortunately, you're always going to come across someone who knows best, who's 1959 classic is safer than anything being constructed today, who attends Flat Earth conventions, who believes the moon landings were faked and COVID 19 was a hoax. You can't help them, let them eat cake.
It is a warning and every owners manual for a motorcycle quad or a car even trucks, in the owners manual, it clearly states, not to put additives in your oil. It also says to use only OEM parts…
I remember, A motorcycle manufacturer from Japan rejecting a warranty claim on a Top of the line, most expensive motorcycle that was still under warranty. They rejected the claim because the owner went against the warning in the owners manual, and he used a cheap chinese aftermarket oil filter -(because it was chromed )He had an oil related engine failure. That customer had to resort to buying an engine from a salvage yard, and the shop, put it in his bike for him, at his expense..
some of those additives go on the market, and within a year or two, they are history. I remember the one that had Teflon particles in it. Your oil filter ended up, filtering those Teflon particles out of the oil, I don’t know if it blocked the oil filter or not, but I haven’t seen that stuff on the market For a long time. I also remember a couple products that were advertised heavily, they were over 95% kerosene. Then there was a product called STP… I think you can still buy it..
I was told by a friend of mine that went to Marietta petroleum Institute, that stp is simply refined crude oil before any of the additives and polymers were added. It has, no zinc, no phosphorus, no boron, no copper, no magnesium, no anti-foaming agent, No polymers to stabilize viscosity, it’s just like a lump of clay before someone forms it into something like a pot or a bowl. It’s just what you begin with when you start to build an oil for a specific duty..
Oils today are better than they have ever been.. at the same time, they are very specific in the owners, manual of your car, on which oil to use in certain temperatures in that vehicle..
The next time I talk to my petroleum, engineer friend, I’m going to ask him if lubricants labeled for racing, are like the parts of a race car that are labeled for racing like the shocks and the brakes and the tires. Those things are not designed for the long haul, they are designed to work for maybe one or two races, not thousands of miles..
I remember using champion, racing, spark plugs in my road racing motorcycle. They were given to me by the champion man. He gave me several boxes in different heat ranges.
I soon found out that those spark plugs are only good for one heat cycle. After they have been through a heat cycle, cool down, and reheated, they are not as reliable as they were when they were new. They are like fire crackers, they’re only good one time I found that out because my machine lost about 300 RPMs and Top Gear, which translates to about 5 miles an hour lost… In a 15 lap sprint race, that means I would finish almost a lap behind where I would have finished with new plugs.. it was a big deal because I had won 6 Championships, two time national champion.. That was a long time ago back in the two-stroke days.
Since then, I have used nothing but NGK spark plugs, in everything I own..
Agree. I haven't used any oil additive. And more than that, I also avoid buying oil from brands that also sell oil additives. I mean, if your oil additive is good, why not add it directly to the engine oil you manufactured? Oil additives in my opinion are just for marketing purposes. Most of the big brand oil companies (Mobil, Pennzoil, you name it) do not offer oil additive products. I mean, these big oil companies are "greedy". They would send out numerous product lines to take up the shelf. But for something they don't even want to sell, you'd better not touch it.
My grandfather swore by Rislone Engine Treatment. I realized later in life that he assumed that modern oil was still based on 1940's technology.
Zinc is not happy with catalytic convertors - but it does have superior wear qualities
😂
Hit the nail on the head there.
Yah this is a really good point. A lot of these additives were incredibly help at one point in time when most oil formulations on the market were much more basic than they are today and when engines were all push rod.
LSJ is singlehandedly educating the world on modern oil formulations. Well done, sir!
And exposing🐍🛢️
I love that you have a scientific approach to what you do Lake! Really appreciate the work you do man!
Just want to point out that even if one is striving for a scientific approach, one should not underestimate what goes into scientific research at a scientific laboratory.
What I mean by that is simply that, even though your results are very telling and at the very least work as a strong indicator, unless you can scientifically prove that you have accounted for every possible variable and eliminated every source of human error (which isn't really practically realistic), we can't technically call it *irrefutable scientific proof* of anything. In fact, doing so at all is very unscientific to begin with. What we definitely *_can do_* however is draw some reasonable conclusions from the results you got. And I think you have definitely aided in that regard with this video.
Thanks man!
Thanks!
Great Video! I never use additives but always use a motor flush before the first immediate oil change, when I buy a used vehicle, usually MMO, I have tried others. Then change the oil again in about 1000 miles. Can't wait for your motor flush video. Hopefully, sooner than later I'm in the market for a used vehicle right now. Keep up the great work. P.S. When you show a screenshot of an analysis please use a curser so we can follow along better with each of the numbers you explain. With a large highlighted area it's easy to get lost in where you're at.
Seafoam goes in the oil right before changing it to break up sludge. It has instructions. You are supposed to change the oil after 100 to 200 miles if I remember right. It works great, but I wouldn't use it on a clean newish engine, and i don't use it for every oil change.
Yes. What Lake said was true, but he didn't follow the procedure and ignored that variables that come with rehabbing old or abused engines. I wouldn't be adding Sea Foam to a brand new engine.
Why not just... i dunno, change the oil instead?
@@p0intdk You do understand that one cannot change what was done to a car by the previous owner right? Besides that, any car with enough miles on it will have sludge buildup regardless of timely oil changes.
@@octosquatch. Bruh... you can't just do an engine flush or throw additives in an engine to break up sludge past a certain point. At that point it's going to act like a clogged artery and cause a heart attack on the engine. OK well maybe not QUITE the same but the concept is similar. Sludge gets caught up in the pick up tube, it can clog a hydraulic lifter there is a massive amount of things that can happen when you try to break things up in the engine rather than disassembling and cleaning properly.
And no, a properly maintained engine will not have sludge buildup anywhere. Idk where you heard that is a normal thing to see with proper maintenance lol
@@rue2973 yet none of those bad things ever happened to me, anyone I know, or anyone I've ever heard of. I literally just bought a poorly maintained but mechanically solid 98 Subaru with 180000mi. The engine was noisy and still running a little rough after doing the usual old car tuneup. The oil was fairly clean when I put seafoam in. After 100 or so miles the oil was black as night. Changed the oil. The engine is quiet and running smooth. There's still a little lifter rattle when it's cold. Major improvement if you ask me, and absolutely nothing went wrong.
Would've loved to see BG MOA included in this test.
And the BG EPS Engine flush product
@@rickhansen1753 He mentioned engine flushes are not good.
Our shop has used BG extensively. We've used the BG EPR on several occasions and have removed the oil pan from sludge up engines. We don't use it on engines that don't have heavy sludge. BG has a flush kit with rinse oil to help remove heavy sludge deposits. In a normally maintain engine 3-5,000 mile engine oil changing interval, you should not have any notable sludge. We've removed the valve covers on engines with 100k, 200k and 300k with only surface varnish and no sludge. Just use a high quality engine oil with a great additive package. We use Pennzoil Full Synthetic or Ultra Synthetic (on engines requiring thinner oil 0W-16/0W-20W) plus a good filter. Again, we use Wix XP or Wix Gold filter.
I’ve used EPR (engine flush) and brought back sludged diesel engines from being junked. It worked amazingly well.
I’d love to see the MOA tested as well.
Came to say the same thing. Back when I was an automotive technician 15yrs ago, the service advisor would push the hell out of the BG moa because it came with like 3 months of roadside assistance, and as technicians we got a kickback when we turned in the coins.
Thank you for dispelling all rumors about additives
I've been saying it for years to people who asked me about additives...DO NOT POUR this crap in your engine!
Your test results are speaking a clear language. Thanks for sharing. :)
This proves what I have been doing for decades.
Use a quality oil and filter and change it every 3,000 to 5,000 miles.
Just came across your channel and found it to be right on point scientifically.
New Subscriber!!!
A quality oil and filter? I'd say 5-7000🤷🏽♂️
It’s almost like the engineers who design the engines have spent a lot of time thinking about all of this stuff. 😉
3000-6009 miles.
69-420 miles.
@@willg.5168 not 7 no way 5 maybe 6k with highway driving
Thank you for you time and effort making this video. The information you provided is very important and much appreciated. Knowledge is power to make wise , informed decisions. Thanks Again!
I don't use additives, but do oil changes every 3000-4000 miles. Bought a used car that wasn't getting regular oil changes, and my first two changes, the oil was very dirty. But my next couple of changes the oil was much cleaner. Now, even at 4,000 miles, my oil drains out not much darker than new oil. So, I have always believed the best thing for an engine is frequent oil changes not over 4,000 miles.
This video was needed , so many shade tree mechanics swear by adding this junk . Thinking they're helping and they're really hurting their engine. Just buy the correct motor oil, and don't go 10,000 miles
Some shade tree mechanics are better than most are certified guys
There is no denying the fact that moly is a fantastic dry lube as its used for rings, bearings, piston skirts, assembly lubes, thread grease, ect. and even a trace additive in many high end motor oils. The liquimoly mso2 additive is a small particle dry lube suspended in a carrier oil that helps to evenly blend it into the oil then boil off. As long as you dont have one of those ultra low micron filters the moly will hang out in the oil until it gets mushed into the microscopic imperfections of the high friction locations resulting in less friction less wear. I use it religiously in all my motors but at 1/4 the suggested dose. Some things I notice when using it are noisy valvetrains get a near instant hush, engines last 2x-3x longer and increased power output.
Also I was in a situation where a fuel injector failed while stuck open and I was able to reduce the misfire / detonation with some marv's mystery oil upper cylinder lubricant (fuel additive)
But he just showed that in some circumstances, wear went up even while friction went down.
@@bry2k The most expensive motor oils contain moly
@@fivestar2227 But it most likely is the newer 'trimer' type molybdenum (or a mix of older 'dimer' type and the newer trimer type) in those high end oils.
A LM 'tech' once told me that their MOS2 additive is ONLY the old school, 'dimer' type of moly, unless he was lying to me.
BTW; I am NOT a LM 'hater' as I use their Molygen oil in my 1.6 EcoBoost currently. 😉
Just add ATF. About 8oz to ten gallons. It'll clean up injectors. I make 1/3 part Denatured alcohol, Marvins, ATF micron IV. Which is pretty much the same thing as most injector cleaners. Told to me from a old chemical engineer that worked in the automotive industry.
Is molybdenum disulfide any better than graphite motor oil?
thanks for taking the time to share....💙💯
My pleasure!!
Fantastic, informative video. Thank You for producing it.
I used to use Ceratec in my vehicles, in part because it is known to quiet down the "typewriter tick" the coyote v8 makes. Just recently pulled oil pan off my cars, and the pan bottom was caked with "forbidden glitter" so I thought the bearings were shot. But, as far as I can tell, they are not. No glitter found in the VVT actuators, nothing in the valve cover...nothing anywhere else except the oil pan where it was more solid than fluid. I did some armchair research, and there are a few pictures of other people who had similar deposits in their oil pan, and you can see others showing what looks like bearing glitter in the oil. But it's not -- it's the ceretec falling out of suspension. Which really makes sense because even the bottle tells you to shake it up.
Lots of good info in here. I can see now why I need to pick an oil and stick with it. Doing the OCD brand changeup throughout the year could be bad as you showed. Also, I didn't think that fuel additives were needed, thinking they are already good enough in the gas. Well. you can't argue with proof, so I will definitely start using it.
Thank you for testing these!
Copium. People just love to waste money on useless products and argue about how useful the useless product is. Safe AND Effective.
@@user-wu2pg5zh2rnot always. Both coyotes I’ve owned have ticked like crazy unless using Ceretec. There has to be a reason it stops so many of these engines from making noise
@@TheBlack2186 I'll give you that. I'm sure I'd feel the same then. Noises like that are almost always ones you have to live with for lack of a solution. Wears on a guy. I'll have to check that out.
I used to think the same about fuel additives until I came across information comparing fuel standards in Europe and the U.S.
To put it mildly, U.S gas sucks unless you get it from a handful of brands such as Shell and some well run Sunoco stations. Most of the rest are pretty bad compared to Euro gas. A good fuel additive gets you pretty close to a high quality fuel and that's why I started using them. I personally use gumout and Chevron and the Redline stuff once in a while.
I used to wonder why European automotive brands didn't experience as many piston ring sticking issues in Europe as they do here, it's the gas.
If you're using a good gas then the fuel additives probably aren't necessary either. I try to run an occasional tank of Shell 93 in all my vehicles.
When I was a young mechanic in HS my teacher convinced me to use STP. This morphed into using Slick 50. After many years of cross country driving using Slick 50 I can honestly say it has no benefits and no real negative. My 1983 Dodge pickup 4x4 with the 318 V8. Stick shift.Drove this truck till 1997 and it had over 300k miles. No engine or transmission issues. But I religiously changed my oil at 3,000 miles !
The 318 is criminally underrated. That engine is so understressed that they just keep on running. The 225 slant six is another one.
@@dougrobinson8602 Agreed. I did so many upgrades to that engine. From big 4 barrel carbs to headers and intake ! Just kept on running !
I remeber slick 50 and put it in my 94 trans am for years.
I worked a Constable he had to furnish his own vehicle bought used police car purchased at auction around 70000 miles used Chevron oil at about 330000 mile oil pressure dropped 10 psi added MMO gained 20 psi drove another 100000 miles Plymouth Fury
Our automotive teacher in the 90s already said additives are a scam and not to use them. Fuel additives on the other hand we used as carburators disappeared.
I used mystery oil on a couple of my cars & they ran marvelously up to 175k miles of daily beatings, redlines, burnouts & drifts, before selling. Both were very good on gas & never smoked or anything & the crankcase always looked pristine. Deff no complaints.
Use marvel break in and from there on your engine stays maintained you have a good shot of lasting a long time
I love Marvel. Stuff works fantastic.
Btw. Anyone notice the dude was using a whisk and then complaining about froth?? The unit he used is DESIGNED to introduce air.
@@Hotel_ChuckEXACTLY.., it’s almost like when someone dislikes something for whatever reason and they try so hard to make it look bad all the time or discredit it, even though other people have proof of good experiences/results with that same product or item.
The reason frothing is bad is because the pump that shoots the oil up from the sump into the crankcase introduces oxygen bubbles as well during hard driving, if the oil froths up from a stir stick then there is a very good chance it'll foam up in the block.
@@oeku3432the guy didn’t run a control with the “frother”. Guarantee the straight oil would be full of bubbles too with that think.
I remember watching a british program that tested a well used, somewhat modestly taken care of VW rabbit or something of the like. Anyway, they dynoed the VW with and without the use of a fuel additive specifically containing PEA. The VW picked up about 7hp to the wheels 2 weeks after the use of the additive in 1 full tank of gas. Everyone was surprised. Since then, I've always been interested in this type of stuff.
I think that was ‘Fifth Gear’.
I remember it.
They added different ‘performance add-ons’ to see which worked best and also used a fuel system cleaner (Redex).
The fuel system cleaner, on its own, gave more BHP improvement than all of the bolt-ones together.
I took a risk, about 6 years ago, and bought a Fiat for £500 (I’m in the UK) with a view of it being my sons first car if I could fix it.
It ran bad and had no power.
I hoped it was just the injectors and before I changed anything else, I ran 2 tanks of fuel with Redex in it.
It transformed the car. I then serviced it and run it for a while, still adding Redex, until I was sure that it was reliable.
My son drove and cherished it for 3 years until he traded up.
It became one of the most reliable cars, this family has owned.
I had to retire early due to ill health and have had to get more back into basic car mechanics as a cost saving (brakes, suspension, belts, etc as well as oil, filters, etc) and I’m loving doing what I can, which isn’t much, but more so, teaching my son.
I say to him often, “just remember, every bolt you tighten relies on you staying on the road at 70mph. Before the wheel goes on, or the bonnet/hood goes down, check everything. Then double check the wheel.”
👍
Finally a video that is in English and uses actual tests, science, and facts.
(Quietly puts the engine oil additive back on the shelf I’ve been using for years)
I’m blown away at people’s comments, trying to refute what Lake showed in his video…
just goes to show why politicians get away with lying to people & people blindly believe them!
I use liquimoly mos2. And I sampled new oil with the mos2 added, then used oil at change. Half of the molybdenum was in the used oil. That means half did adhere to parts in the engine as intended. I am happy with that. Startup is the only time you do not have hydro dynamic suspension and the only time you have wear. Mos2 helps reduce that.
I do agree that's possible , but isn't it also possible it's going past the rings.l would like to see metallurgic test results,but if it did not use any oil your probably right !
@@edharrop1356 doesnt burn any noticeable quantity.
I admit i have not opened up an engine after using the mos2. I have not needed to. I am a diesel mechanic and after reading military studies from decades ago, i decided to use it in everything i own.
@@poellot Great question and answer!
No, cold start is NOT the only wear an engine sees.
One of the best videos on this topic ever.
I never got why people buy expensive expertly formulated oils... and then mix it with a bunch of unknown stuff and think it would help them.
Thank you for posting this video. This very precisely backs up what I have been telling people since the 80s. The only time you get something positive from an additive is when you've got an engine that needs rebuilt, and a viscosity increase quiets the rod knock. When the engine is at that point, you've really got nothing to lose.
If you go to a straight weight oil from a multi weight you sometimes can quiet an engine.
Good old junkyard scumbag trick, pour some super thick oil into an engine with rod knock and sell it.
@@SomeOne_86true… bought my Ford 1951 F-1 v8 got an oil that was like cream.
It becomes a losing battle, the biggest challenge is fuel dilution and blowback from bad cylinder wall… the oil gets bad, very bad very fast… my 1951 Ford truck will blacken my Lucas full synthetic in about 3 hours run time… in 10 hours run time its like black ink from so much carbon contamination and fuel dilution.
@@oldgringo66 Who's running a straight weight oil in the first place???
I learnt something new today, which is useful. Great start to the day. Profound thanks..
You blow my head away ! I have been using additives since I was born 70 years ago! WTF
I was wrong for so many years, spending thousands of Euros (in your case, dollar) for doing the opposite to what I was looking for!
Thank you for being so informative 🙏
2014 F150 3.5L ecoboost. Entire life on Amsoil signature series and truck has 315000kilometers. Doesn’t use a drop. Has never had any internal timing components fail. Zero cold start rattle or any other typical ecoboost variable timing parts issues. I use a dual remote filter setup that has amsoil primary filter and bypass filter. Clean high quality oil and motor runs as well as when it was new.
Amsoil Signature Series the best oil money can buy!
Back in 2000´s, the days when I was studying to be a technician, we had a short scratch on the surface about oils, oil additives and stuff they do. I have not used "special" additives ever since and I just heard pretty much the same reasonings here as what my teacher said back then.
Important video, thanks!
WOW! This was absolutely genius. Thank you for the information, these are the things that us gear heads definitely need to know!
Great video ! Lots of work and lots of good information. You are THE Guru. Keep up the great work !
THANKS !!!
I'm pretty much speechless. This is the most comprehensive scientific side by side test of oil additives I have ever seen in my life. This is science, not speculation. I use an oil additive, however not one used in your tests. MotorKote. I would have loved to have seen it as part of the tests, but I think I know what to expect. Thanks for this evaluation!!
It will quiet engines but produces hydrochloric acid over time. Oil changes should be short in between with it. Better results with Amsoil Signature Oil, Red Line Performance, or Pennzoil Ultra Platinum just as some examples (and these will help quiet the "hemi tick" for example). I'm not an expert but do use the first two oils with great results and have used MotorKote once which worked to quiet a GM 4.8. But only used MotorKote once in this 16+ year old engine. Again not an expert just someone whose driven for over 50 years and enjoy learning from this program. I personally would never put MotorKote in a new engine.
@@t.j.cuddington7795 How do you know the hydrochloric acid statement? Is there some testing result somewhere you can link? Thanks.
Thanks for doing all the testing! And then translating it so those of us who don’t have a technical background in the field can understand basics.
Sea foam is a fantastic cleaner! I use it in my gas at least once a year. When adding it to oil, i believe they say to only have it in there for so many miles BEFORE an oil change (i wanna say about 100 miles before a change). If you have a lifter knock or excessive blow by, its a really good additive to help get burnt on oil off of lifters and even piston rings. Make sure to change your oil fairly soon after adding it!
I've never used any additives except seafoam. Seafoam is meant to be used as a cleaner. Pour a bottle into the gas tank, pour half a bottle into the crankcase and pour the other half of the bottle into the brake booster line. Let it run for 15 minutes then drain the oil. Anything other than this is outside of its recommended use. Thanks for taking the time to address these questions for the community and for sharing this video.
Thank you, Lake, we have been looking forward to finally see your next video.
Thank you for this video. You have answered my speculations of over 50 years! Excellent job.
Well....Done. Thank you. Like yourself I've been in the industry my whole life, grew up in it, was the head of R&D for well know turbo company that culminated with me owning my own motorsports Design & Manufacturing CO. For years I would preach the same words and so many people wouldn't believe me. Some at least until the blackstone labs results came back or their $2600 turbocharger with 70 hours on it would decide to self destruct. 🤷♂ Great info. Subbed!
Many thanks!
Much respect for your effort to open our eyes blinded by aggressive marketing.
Thank you!
Awesome Video. I was a mechanic for 25 years and have never been a fan of additives. This has confirmed my feelings with data Thanks!!
Seafoam is not an additive it’s an engine cleaner, it even states it’s a cleaner on the back of the label. You put it in and drive around for a few miles and change the oil
Right? A simple 10-15 min idle and then drain it is all you really need. I wouldn’t recommend driving (engine load on bearings) with the mixture. This video proves that the oil suffers from it.
Perfectly good as a cleaner flush though.
Nope it is an additive and additives can clean. Regular Motor oil and fuel have additives that help clean as well. On seafoam's website they tell you it's safe to add into brand new oil if you want to. I personally wouldn't use seafoam for anything. I'm using proper fuel additives from now on thanks to this video.
I can’t be the only one that wishes the BG MOA stuff would have been part of this.
BG MOA is incredible. Try using the EPR every other oil change as well. You pour the EPR into the oil and run it for 15 minutes or so before draining the old oil. Then add the MOA into the fresh oil at oil change time. I highly recommend this
You said if you had to add additives to your oil, you're using the wrong oil! That's why I started running diesel oil in all my old vehicles with flat tappet cams, since they took zinc out of oils years ago but diesels still run it, it's perfect! Great video
Lose timeing chain and sticking valves on a ford ranger ran seafoam in the oil and gas tank and the spray it cleaned up a lot and made it run better now i use lucas heavy duty oil stabiliser to help the timeing chain and it sounds much better even though its at 250000 miles
Per Wikipedia: The Marvel Oil Company (also known as Marvel Carburetor Company; Marvel-Schebler Carburetors since 1928) was founded by Burt Pierce in 1923.[2] Before World War I, the company produced carburetors for automobiles and aircraft. Some of these encountered problems with clogged jets, prompting Pierce to formulate a blend of chemicals and petroleum to clean and maintain them.
Bottom line, this stuff works on carburetors, it's an ultrathin oil with solvents. The oil part is key in carburetors, it helps the solvent penetrate better while lubricating any moving parts. It also prevents corrosion in carburetors from ethanol fuel
I add MMO to the fuel in my flathead ford, harley davidson and all my 4 stroke small engines.
I think it is best used in fuels
Only thing I add to my '43 Ford tractor's is Sta-bil in the fuel. That's it. Even the case oil is just plain old mineral oil from tractor supply. Purrs like a kitten, starts every time, the lift works great.
The reason for the sta-bil is because I only go through a tank of gas every 3 months or so. If I was using the thing every day I'd just run plain old low octane and call it good.
Aopa did an article on it back in the 80s because of the amount of people using it in planes,yet its not faa certified.
It does keep those old dogs from sticking valves ,as it's a naptha based oil so it has some cleaning abilities.
It's still not certified but it's still doing the job.
@@danielleroberts8964 I’m curious how effective it is with direct injection.✌️
Bought a car that I didn't know was using oil at a pace of 400mi. per quart. I used Marvel Mystery Oil in it and got it down to about 1200mi. per quart. Then change the oil back to straight oil no MMO. Turns out the car I bought had piston oil ring/oil drain hole issues from the manufacturer. The MMO seemed to be a good cleaner. That's the only claim Ill make for MMO.
Just use a ACEA oil, more detergents.
MMO I’ve used in Crankcase and Gas Tank no problems. Liquid Molly in Gas Tank on long trips think 1,000 miles gets increased fuel mileage. I use my latte mixer in my coffee 😂
@@user-sf7kl9uh7k ACEA oil?
I had the same results with a Toyota 2AD-FE ran the max concentration of MMO and went from 2.5qts per 5k oil change to 1.5qt. It didn’t happen overnight, in fact it took like 40k miles and 8 oil changes.
After hitting 100k my volvo xc60 started using a quart of oil per 400 mi. Finally tried MMM --- one use of MMM got it down to 1 qt per 5000 mi. Blown away. But now afraid to continue!
I have a C1500 from 1989 350 v8 with a lot of miles,im using 15W40 Diesel oil because the daily use,the only additive im using now is STP to keep the valve seals good enough in "prevention" of oil consuming,which in my opinion its been reduced. I used in two ocations RESTORE compression restorer and in my opinion,IT WORKED,TNX in advance!😊
I’d love your input. I grew up on a large cattle ranch in the 60’s-80’s. My dad believed in Marvel mystery oil. Literally every single motor on our ranch, and many other ranches around us used the Marvel Mystery INVERSE oilers. We didn’t put it on the engine oil. Best I can remember, we connected to a vacuum line that put a single drop into the fuel as it entered the carburetors. Dad believed it kept carbon from building up. Best I can remember it added a single drop about every 20 seconds.
Thanks for the video and telling the truth, even if it hurts someone's feelings. Kicking ass and taking names!
Great video. I wish you could test slick50 from the 80s. 😂
So glad I found this channel. Finally , conclusions derived through controlled testing and confirmation.
Appreciate your very informative videos. Please keep them coming.
Love to see the results on diesel targeted additives like RevX,Archoil,Hotshots secret stiction reducer. These are very well known in the diesel industry but I can never find any scientific testing regarding what they do to your oil. Thanks for bringing your knowledge to the average consumer.
Even Steve Morris racing engines is endorcing Rev-X and he supplys it with all his new engines. Would like to see a test on it. Also a ton of Ford 6.0 Diesel guys swear by it.
I’ve used the Hotshots stiction reducer on a 6.0 Powerstroke. It worked as advertised. Granted I’ve also heard from some users that it didn’t fix their stiction problem. I’d be interested to hear about the science behind it as I can only go by my own experience.
I’d also like to see a test on Archoil.
@@markthegunplumber8376 Well that's disappointing, that's about the most obvious bottle of snake oil I've ever seen.
Yeah, I've heard alot about Archoil and Hotshots Stiction eliminator but never seen any scientific results.
Also would love to see a video on Diesel fuel additives.
Thank you, Mr. Speed. I've been using MMO for years in all my vehicles and have never had a problem with any of them!
You need to specify where exactly you used the infamous MMO. Your statement is too vague. 😒😤
The BEST way to rid of carbon deposits is to perform a walnut blasting on direct injection engines. I've performed SO many & it's the most effective method by FAR. It's expensive, sure (as expensive as R&R of your intake manifold is, plus a few hundred), but it simply works, THEN use additives to your fuel to actively defend against them.
As far as oil additives, I personally employ LiquiMoly ONLY. For oil changes, and Cera for oil additive. Not abnormal for Euro vehicles tbh, and the R&D can not be denied. Honestly, I didn't learn much from this video, though the chemical compassion breakdown was interesting! From what I've been told in the industry, the majority of manufacturers meet the minimum amount of requirement for oil quality, that is, additives to ensure breakdown doesn't occur, operating ranges, and a variety of other factors. Call it 'X' factor, and certain additives increase this level of 'X' factor to an optiomal level while ensuring simple lubrication is met. The severity of this is beyond me (chemistry, metallurgically, etc), but from a basic standpoint, that's what where the R&D comes in, albeit good advertising and brand presence makes a huge difference, but for the auto tech, I'd hope these things are simplified to definitive results in effectiveness. LASTLY, I hope everyone realizes the intervals for oil changes set by manufacturers are total BS by now, that's a given, for best results and longevity, reduce intervals by 50% - oil changes every 5K, not 10K as manufacturers claim, same goes for most all fluid intervals, depending on driving habits. Anyways, for a definitive answer on the matter, I'd appreciate it if you were to machine 2 engines to the EXACT same specifications, reduce all other factors other than additives, and compare the wear over 100-150K miles. This would ensure, or disprove any effectiveness. Thanks for tuning into my TedRant 😂
I feel validated 😊. I have used one brand of diesel for 10 years and injectors are doing well. The proprietary detergents are are worth the price difference. Injectors are about 1000 each with labor.
My takeaways today;
1. Modern oils are so highly engineered that they can't be improved by the end user.
2. Gas detergents are good and should be used regularly even with direct injection engines.
Especially for direct injection engines, you have a lot less cleaning going on in a DI engine and can use all the help you can get. I run a PEA additive every 5k miles in my VW Jetta just for that reason, to reduce build up on injector and the valves. Direct injection is very similar to how diesels work, so take the early part of the video as a good stand in for a DI car as well.
I remember when the original STP was a hot item Kendall produced a tech letter saying why would anyone add it to their oil when the major oil companies spent a gazillion dollars to remove it in the first place.
I've seen what stp does to engines internally. 😅 I dont buy stp at all.
It's a good O ring & seal assembly lube, that all I use it for however.
STP was designed to be used in race car engines that were rebuilt after 2 or 3runs so there wouldn't be build up on all block internal parts
Had an '73 Oldsmobile 350 with a bunch of miles, made the mistake of towing a trailer. Engine immediately started smoking "like a freight train". Parked it for months, thinking it's a goner. Added STP, it stopped smoking right away. Kept and drove for 2-3 more years. Your results may vary.
Would love to see a Fuel Additive breakdown with this level of detail.
You won me as a sub. I highly believe in the science not the sales-promo. Thanks Mr.Geek