My KR is a '77 and still has the retracts. Aquired it in '92. I found it disassembled in the corner of a large hanger covered with 1/8 of dust. Then added wing tanks, built new engine, new electric wiring, new radios and instruments for IFR. It's back in my shop for work and glass panel add. Planning on a spring roll out.
Chris, I also have a KR2 and I also restore vintage cars as a hobby so I have a pretty decent amount of experience doing body work and fiberglass. I think you stated this on painting the wheel pants but, prime my initial primer with only true 2 part epoxy. the reason is many. Its waterproof and no other primer is, it will bond to any surface including steel, aluminum and fiberglass composite. Then I spray a filler primer and sand out any pin holes as well as do all finish long board sanding to get a good flat surface. This may require an additional spray coat of filler primer in areas and another sanding. Then, I spray the epoxy sealer primer. Each finish coat of primer is finished with wet sanding to 600 grit. then base color and clear. I have never had a paint failure, fish eye, paint delamination of any kind. I use only epoxy paints in the last 20 years. I prefer PPG Deltron and also Sherman Williams Automotive Ultra 7000 or ATX.
It looks like excellent work. I can work with fiberglass and do it reasonably well but I don't like it so I will probably never build a fiberglass airplane in spite of the speed advantages.
Chris, I’m just wondering…. For filling in pin holes, I wonder if you sprayed a wet coat of primer/filler on the pant and quickly covered it in a plastic bag and vacuumed the bag.
On the wheel pants, I used glazing putty to fill the pinholes. On the plane, I used smooth prime. The other method that works well is the epoxy method.
My KR is a '77 and still has the retracts. Aquired it in '92. I found it disassembled in the corner of a large hanger covered with 1/8 of dust. Then added wing tanks, built new engine, new electric wiring, new radios and instruments for IFR. It's back in my shop for work and glass panel add. Planning on a spring roll out.
Oh, Very good!!!
Chris, I also have a KR2 and I also restore vintage cars as a hobby so I have a pretty decent amount of experience doing body work and fiberglass. I think you stated this on painting the wheel pants but, prime my initial primer with only true 2 part epoxy. the reason is many. Its waterproof and no other primer is, it will bond to any surface including steel, aluminum and fiberglass composite. Then I spray a filler primer and sand out any pin holes as well as do all finish long board sanding to get a good flat surface. This may require an additional spray coat of filler primer in areas and another sanding. Then, I spray the epoxy sealer primer. Each finish coat of primer is finished with wet sanding to 600 grit. then base color and clear. I have never had a paint failure, fish eye, paint delamination of any kind. I use only epoxy paints in the last 20 years. I prefer PPG Deltron and also Sherman Williams Automotive Ultra 7000 or ATX.
It looks like excellent work. I can work with fiberglass and do it reasonably well but I don't like it so I will probably never build a fiberglass airplane in spite of the speed advantages.
Chris, I’m just wondering…. For filling in pin holes, I wonder if you sprayed a wet coat of primer/filler on the pant and quickly covered it in a plastic bag and vacuumed the bag.
On the wheel pants, I used glazing putty to fill the pinholes. On the plane, I used smooth prime. The other method that works well is the epoxy method.
Great video! Can jou let us know what speed improvement you have?
12 mph total with the wheel pants and the added fairings. It was only 6 mph without the added fairings.
@@vr6chrisvw that’s a lot. I had only 6kts with my wheel fairings. (Different model)