Belt tensioner replacement on a Saturn
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- čas přidán 5. 12. 2013
- Replacing the belt tensioner on my cousins 97 Saturn
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I finished it. Thanks again for helpful video. I had some issues that could help someone to know about. You may never see these problems, and I hope not, but if you do, they can be overcome. I installed both new belt and new tensioner. When trying to slacken the tension using the flat wrench and tubing extension, there was not enough throw to accommodate the belt. This would have been true even if I had bought a commercial-type long thin socket driver made for the purpose. I wound up pulling the wrench fully home to get as much slack as I could, then a jamming a big screwdriver under the belt and pulling it up almost onto the edge of the pulley and holding it there while I removed the wrench from the tensioner nut, and took a fresh purchase to allow enough slack to finally get the belt on. Even so it was brutal. I double checked the routing, and found it was right. It would be great to have some sort of a block to shove down against the tensioner, or maybe a half-pulley thing to fasten to the frame to hold the belt while I get a fresh grip on the nut on the tensioner. The tensioner moved just fine, and had lots more room to move, but not with the limited swing of the wrench in one pass. Also, the mfr rounded the nut on my new tensioner, (maybe so socket would fit it easier)? Not good, since on Saturn you can't use a socket. I usually use an open end wrench on it, and this time it just kept slipping off. I finally wound up cutting the open end off my 14mm wrench and using the box end inside some flattened copper tubing to make it long enough. My old tensioner was very forgiving, this new one was not. I mention this in case someone gets into this pickle and might end up thinking the part is wrong. It's not, just some of them, especially new ones, may require a second purchase to get enough slack to put on your new belt, and some ingenuity to figure out how to hold the tension from the first pass, so you can get a new purchase and make a second, or even a third pass to be able to seat the belt properly. It seems to run fine, all problems resolved with patience and fortitude. It doesn't need to be this bad, I've done just the belt and nothing like this at all. So don't lose a great car over something you can repair!
This is pretty spot on with what I’m dealing with at the moment. So for any of you that are curious as to what happens when you drive your sad turd too long with this particular issue you end up broke down on the side of 377 waiting on a tow truck that is an hour out. It also might be raining like it is right now. Long story short fix your little squeaks before they turn into thuds and clunks from an engine with no power left. It’s going to be a long night lol
4 yrs later I'm stuck in a parking lot with a 4yr old wishing I'd saw this message last week lol 🤣😅 this was definitely funny
i have an 03' ion that threw a belt. I seen guys removing the motor mounts and all this unnecessary stuff. I jacked up the side of the belts. I then removed the plastic shroud. The I used a smaller jack with a pipe and took the tension off and put the belt on then lowered the jack slowly to tension the belt and it was over with. These Saturn's I thought have it where you can access the pulley bolt from the tire side through a couple holes just for that reason. This was a lot easier to me than what other videos i seen. I'm just throwing another idea out there for guys and by no means undermining their work.
Richpin is the man, i have literally learn alot from him and now you too!
good vid ill confirm that you can by pass the ac with a smaller belt I'm doing this on mine "same engine"
you should note that when inserting the new tensioner, the straight side of the flange goes to the right and the sloped side to the left. I found that these things can seem to fit in both ways to a point, then you have trouble. It is very hard to see and not very obvious which way it goes unless you really watch closely taking out the old one, and fit the new one the same way. If you think (like I did) there's only one way, then you don't watch closely and it can cost time and frustration on a job that is already tedious.
Thanks for the video, I watched a second time and happened to notice the flange on the new part, but it was more or less accidental that is how I figured it out. It should be pointed out explicitly to mark or note carefully the orientation of the old part and match that to the new.
bobluhrs Thank you for this information.
Im not sure what you mean about the flange? The tensioner has to be installed with the pulley to the right side. It will install backwards, but then your tensioner pulley position is backwards.
Great video, thanks!
I've got a 05 Toyota that the belt started squealing. Said something to the services dpt. Said there was a bulletin. Replaced the tensioner and belt. A few years later it was doing again. I replaced the belt myself. Well this year it's doing it AGAIN!!
Always been when the car has sat and when it has rained or the humidity is high.
yes you can buy a shorted belt to bypass your air. i know because i just did it. you can also remove the air unit, and it makes life easier to replace idler pulley also.
Did u put on a new belt?
Thanks for the help! Now my 1999 Saturn SC2 turn signals and emergency lights stopped working. Have checked fuses and bulbs. They seem to be OK, but turn signals still don't work. Do have any videos on this topic? Have a good weekend.
how tight should the 10mm head bolts be?These are into a aluminum case
The problem with the 14mm bolt on my tensioner, is it is recessed into the tensioner wheel center. I got a serpentine belt extension arm. But it still won't work, because the head will not fit around the recessed bolt.
Glad I'm not the only person struggling with that freaking belt. Don't even try it from top. Total waste of time
can you get that top bold from the bottom? is that any easier?
Sounded like the power steering pump was singing a bit. Might want to check the fluid level.
what about on a 1992 Saturn SL2 version 8? there is a difference between a version 8 and a version 2 on a 1992 SL2 Saturn
Is there a chance of a startfest 2014?
Install the tensioner pulley toward the front of the engine as opposed to the rear or alternator side. Otherwise you will be very frustrated trying to get the belt on.
Which pulley is the tensioner?
What are you driving these days?
Are you in California? if so would you be able to put my tensioner on?
Great video. I recently purchased a 1998 SL2 with only 30k miles. But it recently developed a coolant leak. With the engine running, coolant is being sprayed upwards, from the belt between the AC pulley and the idle pulley. But I can't find the origin of the leak. Thinking of disconnecting the belt so I can find the leak. Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Water pump i had the same problem the water pump is right next to the tensioner pulley
You should tell these people first thing to take the nut I mean the bolt off of the pully wheel you can get to the top bolt to take it off
did you hear the lifter tick at 13:25 when you started the engine? Is this normal? Or is the engine dying? I just put a newer used engine in my sl1 2000 and I think its a 97 engine and mine does the exact same noise when I start the car. I just want to make sure I didn't get ripped off and bought a bad engine.
I wouldn't worry about a little lifter tick on startup.
The clatter is common on sump oil pump engines. It happens in the amount of time that it takes for the pump to get oil to the moving parts. Dura-Lube is a good engine treatment to fix or at least minimize the wear at start ups.
Sure wish you would have showed how you took the top bolt off!
Me, too.That's the bolt that's kicking my ass now. I can see it, from the bottom I can touch it with one finger, but can't squarely get a socket on it, and if I did, can't imagine how I'd get two fingers on the new one to start to thread it in...
Leonard Urban I used a breaker bar , and when i put the bolt back in i put the bolt in the socket first and lowered it into the hole and wiggled it a little till the bolt didnt move anymore ( leave the bottom bolt snug .the tensioner will swing a little ) then removed the socket and breaker bar and started the treads by hand.
sf98 THANKS, Bro! I ended up having it professionally installed, but will print this out for next time!
I just had them quote me $338 for this exact problem...
I just had them quote me $454.88 at pep boys for this exact problem
Its easier to put top bolt in with the pully off the tensioner
what brand of tensioner did you used..... i bought mine at a local store... And it broke 2 times already....
+Victor Silva I did the same thing like three times... The OEM brand AC Delco costs twice as much but finally was the part that worked. Some aftermarket parts you can cheap out on, not this one on a Saturn!
You learned the hard way like I did...ALWAYS get the OEM tensioner for these Saturns or you will have issues...I also much prefer the DOHC engine on the SL2.
Will this be an appropriate video for a 99 Saturn as well?
in case anyone sees this, my 2002 is the exact same way in here. just a little harder to get to the tensioner
ill be back to include if 10mm is also correct. looks like it
These Saturn tensioners are not real easy to change. I did one tonight on my moms old 94 sl1. I did it from up top, without removing rf wheel, and covers. I removed that top engine mount, and jacked up the engine. That gave me plenty of room to R&R the tensioner, and install a new belt. By jacking up the engine, i could fit a pro serpentine belt tool on the tensioner bolt, making it easy to slip the belt onto the final pulley. That is very rough with a short wrench like the one used in this video. I give him credit for getting it done, but i could feel his pain. A long combination wrench will help when doing as per in this video. Do not try it my way if your not good at using a pry bar to realign engine mounts.
Is this the single cam engine?
Yes, it is the SL1
Twin cam as far as I know. Very simple job. Quick tip: Spray the shit out of everything with brake parts cleaner once you get the belt off. My most problematic part was the 20 years of built up gunk around the bolts.
does your video apply to a '93 Saturn?
The videographing is really bad. We can't see most of what you're trying to show us and you skip parts that should be helpful to see.
If you're in there the same time as watching this video. Its actually very helpful. You're the one that needs help ;)