John Deere 285, 345, LX178, LX188 Leaky Fuel Pump DIY (Kawasaki V-Twin FD590V FD440V FD501V FD611V)
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2023
- This DIY shows the fuel pump replacement on a John Deere 285 Kawasaki FD590V engine. The repair is similar/same for other JD, Kubota, Landlord, and Craftsman models equipped with Kawasaki V-twins engines FD440V, FD590V, FD501V, FD501C, and FD611V. Check the Pinned Comment for below for Timestamps, Part Numbers, Torque Values, and other info:
00:32 Diagnostics: fuel pump is leaking due to a failed
diaphragm
01:10 Info on the fire danger
02:16 Fuel Pump Test Info Slide, from Service Manual
02:20 Begin repair: Disconnect the battery (1/2")
02:42 Remove the hood
04:08 Remove the heat shield (1/2")
04:42 Disconnect two fuel lines at the pump
06:05 Remove two mounting bolts (12mm)
07:26 Info about the insulator and gaskets
- Gaskets: JD part M113687 or Kawasaki 11060-2075
- Insulator: JD part M76130 or Kawasaki 16073-2116
08:49 How to remove the fuel pump push rod
09:42 Fuel pump push rod info (JD M76131 or
Kawasaki 13116-2058)
10:20 How this fuel pump is driven by the camshaft
11:38 Info about the new fuel pump part numbers
and design
- Kawasaki 99916-2164, "kit" w/clamp and hose;
- Kawasaki 49040-2082, pump only;
- JD AM132715
15:49 Info on the gaskets and insulator:
- Gaskets: JD part M113687 or Kawasaki 11060-2075
- Insulator: JD part M76130 or Kawasaki
16:25 Prepare pump for install
16:50 Install new pump, torque is 150 inch-lbs (17 Nm)
17:42 Reconnect two fuel lines
18:58 Route the new vent hose
20:00 Check for fuel leaks
21:57 Re-install the heat shield (1/2")
23:11 Re-install the hood
24:20 What's inside the old fuel pump? Destructive
disassembly of the old pump
29:09 Notes on the oil change
29:21 New fire extinguisher installed for safety
I hope this video was helpful for you. Thanks for watching, and good luck with your repair! : ) - Jak na to + styl
Timestamps, Part number, Torque values:
00:32 Diagnostics: fuel pump is leaking due to a failed
diaphragm
01:10 Info on the fire danger
02:16 Fuel Pump Test Info Slide, from Service Manual
02:20 Begin repair: Disconnect the battery (1/2")
02:42 Remove the hood
04:08 Remove the heat shield (1/2")
04:42 Disconnect two fuel lines at the pump
06:05 Remove two mounting bolts (12mm)
07:26 Info about the insulator and gaskets
- Gaskets: JD part M113687 or Kawasaki 11060-2075
- Insulator: JD part M76130 or Kawasaki 16073-2116
08:49 How to remove the fuel pump push rod
09:42 Fuel pump push rod info (JD M76131 or
Kawasaki 13116-2058)
10:20 How this fuel pump is driven by the camshaft
11:38 Info about the new fuel pump part numbers
and design
- Kawasaki 99916-2164, "kit" w/clamp and hose;
- Kawasaki 49040-2082, pump only;
- JD AM132715
15:49 Info on the gaskets and insulator:
- Gaskets: JD part M113687 or Kawasaki 11060-2075
- Insulator: JD part M76130 or Kawasaki
16:25 Prepare pump for install
16:50 Install new pump, torque is 150 inch-lbs (17 Nm)
17:42 Reconnect two fuel lines
18:58 Route the new vent hose
20:00 Check for fuel leaks
21:57 Re-install the heat shield (1/2")
23:11 Re-install the hood
24:20 What's inside the old fuel pump?
- Destructive
disassembly of the old pump
29:09 Notes on the oil change
29:21 New fire extinguisher installed for safety
DIY Video for the Ignition coils and Spark plug caps (Kawasaki V-twins):
czcams.com/video/M0Dn3VZWJbo/video.html
I hope this video was helpful for you. Thanks for
watching, and good luck with your repair!
Your clips are jammed full of info and the pace you do the actual work is relaxing to watch
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Wonderful video, complete with defect teardown...AWESOME!!!
The Engineering change to add the vent port was clearly necessary however not well documented based on my search and many sellers are not helpful. This video clarified all my questions & concerns and validated what I had suspected. My Kubota TG1860G had exactly the same issue with high pressure fuel exiting the vent hole onto the muffler heat shield. We were fortunate the fuel smell in our garage after cutting the lawn triggered investigation
Yes, I agree - I wasn't aware of this important design change until I learned about it on the forums. My local JD dealer is pretty good and I like them, but their techs weren't aware of it, either. Fuel leaks are nothing to mess around with - I'm glad you got your Kubota back to being fuel leak-free! Thanks for watching : )
Fantastic video. Very helpful and informative. Thank you very much!
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
@@L35inColorado Now I need your help! I ordered a genuine Kawasaki Pump, part # 49040-2082. It looked Identical to the one on the tractor. I changed the pump. I started the tractor. It ran for about 30 seconds and then stalled. Would not restart. I used a primer bulb to push some gas into the fuel filter. Then the tractor would run, but cut out after 30 seconds. It was pretty obvious the new pump was not working. I confirmed I had the correct lines connected. I then put the old pump back on (it had been working , but had gasoline dripping). Then the tractor would start and run. However, I had the fuel dripping again. Since the pump is the new type with the drip hose, I thought it was weird it would still drip out of the pump body, so I looked more closely. Turns out it is dripping out of the carb. It must have a stuck float or something. Do you think I should just replace carb or try to repair it? I tried looking up the part. It looks like AM122617 and runs about $195. Is that the right part? But the other thing I really wanted your opinion on is this. I am sure that new pump is bad, and when I tried to get a replacement, the online store I bought it from asked my the complete engine code, and then told me since it was a Deere they couldn't even tell me what part to use. I told them it was a Kawasaki F590V, and the part they sent was a perfect match, but they said they can't know what part I need. It sounds like I am stuck with this new, bad pump. Does that sound right to you? Isn't a part a part? What should I do? I dropped about $60 on it. Thanks!
The mechanical pump was removed on my GX 345.
The mounting location was blanked off & was replaced with a plastic pulse pump which is fastened to the fan shroud and has worked well.
Very interesting - thank you for adding this info and tip! And thanks for watching : )
This video is very informative and helpful. Not everyday you see new videos on the problem you're having on a 30 year old mower☠️
Thanks! I have a couple other videos on this old JD 285 (playlist) - it's a great machine if it gets what it needs : ) Thanks for watching!
At 1:04, how much PSI you think when the fuel is squirting out? This reminds me of my Volvo B6304 engine. The fuel rail leaks at the end near cylinder #1 during 1st few minutes in the morning then goes away when engine warms up. I simply apply shoe glue to stop the fuel leak. The shoe glue lasted a year or so then start turning yellow b/c engine heat/cold cycle but still no leak. I then re-apply extra layer of shoe glue just to be safe.
No, Volvo never recalled these B6304 engine which is unbelievable. Maybe typical Volvo owners/dealers are so clueless & never complain about mystery fuel smell/leaks 😅
Amazing presentation as always 💯💯
Oh man, that doesn't sound like any fun! I didn't measure fuel pressure on this JD, but the engine specs show "good" fuel pressure to be quite low, even under 1 psi, since it is not injected and is just a mechanical pump. Fuel pressure on your Volvo B6304 would be far higher than that! As you know, be careful with the fire danger (because fuel leaks cause fires!), and hopefully replacing that fuel rail isn't too wild of a job - it may even be a part you can scalp from a salvage yard! : )
Great video.
Thank you! And thanks for watching : )
Just found your channel. So glad I did. Thank you for your experience.
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
Great video
Thank you, and thanks for watching : )
I am having an issue where the engine will only run on full choke if you come down to fast idle it’ll want to stall out. Also I’m having a charging issue…. Not sure if you’ve had any of these issues as well?
Thanks for your input
I'm having this problem now fuel pump leaking out the little hole. I tried hook up a 12 volt fuel pump for now about 4 psi gas is going in the carb not in the motor. Spark plugs remove no gas coming out the holes when turning over.
Hello there. I have watched your videos and they are so great with clarity in explanation and visual.
I have an LX178 with the Kawasaki V-twin, and I am not getting any working power from the right side cylinder. I replaced the spark plugs, I replaced the ignition coil (I am getting spark because I tested that as well) and it’s still not firing for power. I even checked the compression with taking the spark plug out and feeling the pressure pushing out of the opening.
Do you have any other suggestions, other than a possible lack of fuel?
Merhaba Toyota 1998rav4 motor askı takozlarını bulamıyorum help !!?
Warning! This video is great and very helpful, but beware of buying parts by the Kawasaki part number. I used the the Kawasaki part number in this video and bought a brand new pump. It is an exact match for what was on my Deere. However the new part was defective andthe seller will not take any responsibility for it, because I have a Kawasaki engine code with a Deer suffix. They claim that with that code, the only part number that is known to work with the engine is the Deere part number. Of course this is BS, but I am none-the-less screwed out of $70. If the new pump had not been defective, I would have certainly saved a lot of money, but please be aware of this potential downside with not buying the Deere part number.
Thank you for adding your tips! And that's for watching : )