What a blessing you are. Thank you so much for this video!! You did such an excellent job, step by step, no rambling straight to the point. Just saved a bunch of money and now will be doing my brakes myself moving forward!
Great video, I am about to do my brakes for the first time on a 2020 pathfinder. I did notice though that you referenced the Newton meter for the torque specs. General Information page 5, lists white wrench as N.m (kg-m, ft-lb), black wrench N.m (kg-m, in-lb). Front bolts white wrench for all bolts, 17mm bolts 45.6 N.m (4.7 kg-m, 34 ft-lb), 22mm bolts there are two styles, bolt with flange 123 N.m (13 kg-m, 91 ft-lb), 22mm bolt with washers 144.5 N.m (15kg-m, 107 ft-lb). Rear white wrench for all bolts, 14mm bolts 43.15 N.m (4.4 kg-m, 32 ft-lb), 19mm bolts 84.3 N.m (8.6 kg-m, 62 ft-lb).
Great videos, lots of detailed explanations and, overall very thorough. I'm very handy but usually leave brake jobs to real mechanics... but I was recently told that brakes (Front and Rear with new Rotors and Pads) for my 2017 Pathfinder would be around $1100.00 dollars. Now, after watching your video, I will save about $800 and put that toward new tires instead. This is a simply a sincere thank you, Cliff
Quick question, if you have time. I was wondering about the Calipers you have. Are they made by Nissan? My 2017 Pathfinder is Red and I wonder if they are available in Red? I worry the Gold color of yours might clash with my Red Pathfinder. I understand if you are busy, and maybe this is a bit too much to ask... I have seen them by 1AAuto and by Power Stop... but I'm no sure of the quality. Thank you 🙂
I've done many brake jobs over the years, but I don't want to do my wife's Pathfinder. The dealer says front and rear pads and rotors with a fluid flush will cost around $800.00, after watching your videos for front and rear replacement I'm going to go ahead and do it and save a lot of money. Thank you for the videos. 😊😊
Terrific Terrific video! Great practical information and tips. I replaced my pads and rotors and my car actually slow down and stops without that grinding noise. Parts ain’t cheap anymore, but at least my labor is free.
You do a great job showing exactly all the steps needed to do the job. I have a Pathfinder but no garage space, but I would use your video if I was able to do the job !
Don't put grease on the pad ends or on the calliper, it can't take the heat and will just run off. Put a little anti-seize on the backs of the pads only, to stop vibration.
I'm having an issue were I can't get any of the bolts off the brakes I think they put them on with an impact. I think I might have to jack up the wheel hub so I can get more room just have never done that I wish u would have made a alt ending were u showed how to do that otherwise outstanding video
I see that caliper you painted a while back is still holding up. Regarding if you should remove the reservoir cap, I would just open the bleeder and place a tube on it. That way, old brake fluid doesn't go back up the lines
Do you know if the 2023 nissan pathfinder has the same brake calipers as a 2020 nissan pathfinder? I'm looking for brake caliper covers for my 23 pathfinder. Thanks
This is easily the best video on this. I’ve watched probably the top 20 videos on this search term and I found yours to be the most helpful. The only other thing I noticed others had but yours didn’t was taking off the rubber boots(?) that the slide pins go into. The according looking ones. Other videos showed them Cleaning those out too…is that necessary?
You can just wipe off the old grease on the slide pin and then put some Sil-Glyde lube on the pin, and reassemble. This will help to make sure the caliper can slide back and forth freely.
Pull the jack out so you don't trip over it. If the reservoir is full, suck some out with a turkey baster. Don't let it spill over. If you are using gear wrenches like this guy, don't use them to break bolts loose. You will ruin them. Never hammer rotors on the outer disc. You will warp them. Instead hammer the flat area around the studs. The orientation of the squealer tab on the pad was also not mentioned. It goes on the inside pad and face the bottom.
Great Video - I have a question about the recommendation to install the slide pin with the bushing on top of the driver side caliper but then on the bottom of the passenger side caliper. I think the bottom side of both the driver and passenger rotors would be the trailing edge (with the car moving forward) which seems to be the most common recommendation I've read and feels right having the tighter/slower pin rebound on the trailing edge instead of the leading side of the brake pad. Do you have any thoughts on this?
Normally the slide pin with the bushing goes on the top. What I showed in this video with one side on top and one side on the bottom is how it came from Nissan. This was the first brake service since new. So I went with how it came from Nissan and reinstalled everything the same way.
That's the normal wear of the brakes for this mileage. It's not low mileage. I did show in the video how much the pads were worn down. Hope you saw that.
Don't use grease on brake pads, its no good for heat and youndomt need it on pad tabs, take a little anti-seize and put it on the backs of the pads only.
On the back caliper bolts with the rubber on the end are bolts different meaning are bolts with rubber end go at the top on both sides I know what you said about the front rubber bolt at top on driver side and rubber on bottom for passenger side is it the same for back
For the rear brake, the slide pin with rubber bushing goes on top on the driver's side. On the passenger side, the rubber bushing bolt goes on the bottom.
Thanks again for showing the work you've done on your Pathfinder... just a side question about the PF you own... have you had any engine issues on the 45k miles you've driven with the SUV? I read some very common problems reported in a Pathfinder online forum about this VQ35DD engine having engine oil sludge problem...
I have not had any engine problem (so far). AFAIK, often oil sludge problems can be a result of not changing engine oil regularly. I change my oil and filter every 5000 miles.
@@dial2fastwasn't paying attention when I took out the guide pins, now scrambling to find out which one goes where. You say one with bushing goes on bottom on passenger side, but I saw several other videos showing top on the passenger side. Now I'm even more confused! 😢 If it's only vibration dampener, is it really that critical which one goes where?
Because if you are changing pads, you should always change the rotors. Otherwise you will have vibration and pulsing problems. If you are wondering about machining rotors, those days are long gone. For the DIY, you will have a hard time finding a shop that will machine it for you and you will end up with a thinner rotor which leads to rotor warping. Just replace them.
Me personally I’d never lifer a car on a subframe for peace of mind I’d lift the rear by the differential a sub frame is a small frame inside a frame or unibody chassis I’d never lift the vehicle on this as it can misalign suspension components if bent or tweaked will it happen every single time no but for peace of mind I wouldn’t do it
This video you made gives me the comfort to do my own breaks and rotor. I always work on my pathfinder using your videos. Very useful videos.
Same here.
Wow, this is a great in depth video. You name the parts, the wrench's and the torque specs. Couldn't ask for more . Thanks
Thanks so much. This video was incredibly helpful when I did my own brakes for the first time.
Just wanted to say thank you! I saved myself $300 by doing this myself.
Glad my video was helpful to you. Have a great week!
You do make great videos. You don't miss a step or torque value. It really is like your are right here, helping and explaining everything. Well done!
Thank you for your comment. I am happy to hear you found my video helpful. Have a great week!
What a blessing you are. Thank you so much for this video!! You did such an excellent job, step by step, no rambling straight to the point. Just saved a bunch of money and now will be doing my brakes myself moving forward!
Great video, I am about to do my brakes for the first time on a 2020 pathfinder. I did notice though that you referenced the Newton meter for the torque specs. General Information page 5, lists white wrench as N.m (kg-m, ft-lb), black wrench N.m (kg-m, in-lb). Front bolts white wrench for all bolts, 17mm bolts 45.6 N.m (4.7 kg-m, 34 ft-lb), 22mm bolts there are two styles, bolt with flange 123 N.m (13 kg-m, 91 ft-lb), 22mm bolt with washers 144.5 N.m (15kg-m, 107 ft-lb). Rear white wrench for all bolts, 14mm bolts 43.15 N.m (4.4 kg-m, 32 ft-lb), 19mm bolts 84.3 N.m (8.6 kg-m, 62 ft-lb).
Your videos are so through and easy to follow! Keep making more!
Great videos, lots of detailed explanations and, overall very thorough. I'm very handy but usually leave brake jobs to real mechanics... but I was recently told that brakes (Front and Rear with new Rotors and Pads) for my 2017 Pathfinder would be around $1100.00 dollars. Now, after watching your video, I will save about $800 and put that toward new tires instead.
This is a simply a sincere thank you,
Cliff
Glad you found the video helpful. Always good to save some money. Have a wonderful week!
Quick question, if you have time.
I was wondering about the Calipers you have. Are they made by Nissan? My 2017 Pathfinder is Red and I wonder if they are available in Red? I worry the Gold color of yours might clash with my Red Pathfinder.
I understand if you are busy, and maybe this is a bit too much to ask... I have seen them by 1AAuto and by Power Stop... but I'm no sure of the quality.
Thank you 🙂
I painted those calipers. Here is the vid czcams.com/video/HPbwDluyiiE/video.html
I've done many brake jobs over the years, but I don't want to do my wife's Pathfinder. The dealer says front and rear pads and rotors with a fluid flush will cost around $800.00, after watching your videos for front and rear replacement I'm going to go ahead and do it and save a lot of money. Thank you for the videos. 😊😊
Wow. My rear brakes are almost due...
Terrific Terrific video! Great practical information and tips. I replaced my pads and rotors and my car actually slow down and stops without that grinding noise. Parts ain’t cheap anymore, but at least my labor is free.
Thanks bro! Did my girls pathfinder brakes and got a 12 pack 🔥
Very nice, clear video and good advice.
You do a great job showing exactly all the steps needed to do the job. I have a Pathfinder but no garage space, but I would use your video if I was able to do the job !
Don't put grease on the pad ends or on the calliper, it can't take the heat and will just run off. Put a little anti-seize on the backs of the pads only, to stop vibration.
He should be using ceramic brake grease.
This is the best video ever. Man I love you videos. Very well made videos.
Happy to hear you like my videos. Have a great weekend!
i can tell you live in a place with no snow looks like its never seen any salt
I'm having an issue were I can't get any of the bolts off the brakes I think they put them on with an impact. I think I might have to jack up the wheel hub so I can get more room just have never done that I wish u would have made a alt ending were u showed how to do that otherwise outstanding video
I see that caliper you painted a while back is still holding up. Regarding if you should remove the reservoir cap, I would just open the bleeder and place a tube on it. That way, old brake fluid doesn't go back up the lines
How about flushing the brake fluid out while you change the pads and rotors?
Thanks for the video man at least I know the rear calipers aren't the screw-in Piston type.
Do you know if the 2023 nissan pathfinder has the same brake calipers as a 2020 nissan pathfinder? I'm looking for brake caliper covers for my 23 pathfinder. Thanks
Great job thank you my friend I just got a 2018 nissan pathfinder and these are all perfect thanks a bunch👊😎
Congrats on your purchase. It's a great comfortable riding SUV. Do the regular maintenance and it will last many years.
Thanks for the video. Very detailed and informative.
This is easily the best video on this. I’ve watched probably the top 20 videos on this search term and I found yours to be the most helpful. The only other thing I noticed others had but yours didn’t was taking off the rubber boots(?) that the slide pins go into. The according looking ones. Other videos showed them Cleaning those out too…is that necessary?
You can just wipe off the old grease on the slide pin and then put some Sil-Glyde lube on the pin, and reassemble. This will help to make sure the caliper can slide back and forth freely.
Pull the jack out so you don't trip over it.
If the reservoir is full, suck some out with a turkey baster. Don't let it spill over.
If you are using gear wrenches like this guy, don't use them to break bolts loose. You will ruin them.
Never hammer rotors on the outer disc. You will warp them. Instead hammer the flat area around the studs.
The orientation of the squealer tab on the pad was also not mentioned. It goes on the inside pad and face the bottom.
great information. thank you for this
Good video. Thank you for sharing your expertise!
Very thorough and informative. This explains the whole process and made my brake job 100 times easier. Thank you
Excellent! Very clear and great videos.
For 2012, the rear 19mm bolts are 64-foot pounds, and the 14mm are 32-foot pounds. The wheel nut is 83-foot pounds.
Great video as always. Very detailed. Keep it up.
Thatnk you for your comment!
Very nice.💥 🛠
Thank you for this video 🤙🏻
Just wanted to see if the caliper piston was the type that has to be screwed in. Fortunately it isn’t, ‘cause I lost my cube tool.
Great Video - I have a question about the recommendation to install the slide pin with the bushing on top of the driver side caliper but then on the bottom of the passenger side caliper. I think the bottom side of both the driver and passenger rotors would be the trailing edge (with the car moving forward) which seems to be the most common recommendation I've read and feels right having the tighter/slower pin rebound on the trailing edge instead of the leading side of the brake pad. Do you have any thoughts on this?
Normally the slide pin with the bushing goes on the top. What I showed in this video with one side on top and one side on the bottom is how it came from Nissan. This was the first brake service since new. So I went with how it came from Nissan and reinstalled everything the same way.
I tow a 3500 pound boat would you recommend slotted and drilled rotors
What if the I did the compress piston part too early?
No b.s. Great video!
Thanks for sharing. I have a question...why replacing the brake pads and rotor with such of low miles? just for demonstration purposes?
That's the normal wear of the brakes for this mileage. It's not low mileage. I did show in the video how much the pads were worn down. Hope you saw that.
How can I get a list of the tools and lubrication used in this video?
Just pick up some electrical grease or break grease from parts store and he said the caliper bolts are 14mm and bracket 19mm wheel lugs should be 21mm
Don't use grease on brake pads, its no good for heat and youndomt need it on pad tabs, take a little anti-seize and put it on the backs of the pads only.
On the back caliper bolts with the rubber on the end are bolts different meaning are bolts with rubber end go at the top on both sides I know what you said about the front rubber bolt at top on driver side and rubber on bottom for passenger side is it the same for back
For the rear brake, the slide pin with rubber bushing goes on top on the driver's side. On the passenger side, the rubber bushing bolt goes on the bottom.
OK THANKS I JUST WONDERING WAS IT THE SAME AS THE FRONT THANKS ✌️
@@dial2fast Thanks
pro tip skip the break grease
Thanks again for showing the work you've done on your Pathfinder... just a side question about the PF you own... have you had any engine issues on the 45k miles you've driven with the SUV? I read some very common problems reported in a Pathfinder online forum about this VQ35DD engine having engine oil sludge problem...
I have not had any engine problem (so far). AFAIK, often oil sludge problems can be a result of not changing engine oil regularly. I change my oil and filter every 5000 miles.
@@dial2fast Thanks... Have you changed/drain-refill the CVT fluid also?
@@loem0101 I recently did that service and will work on editing the video this week. Stay tuned.
The problem is soot on these GDI engines.
How did you know about the dampening pins with rubber tips being top on drivers and bottom on passenger side. ?
Because this vehicle was purchased new in 2017 and this is the first time the brake service was done. So this is how it came from the factory.
Thanks I never would have guessed that
@@dial2fastwasn't paying attention when I took out the guide pins, now scrambling to find out which one goes where. You say one with bushing goes on bottom on passenger side, but I saw several other videos showing top on the passenger side. Now I'm even more confused! 😢 If it's only vibration dampener, is it really that critical which one goes where?
Why change rotor at 45k miles?
Because if you are changing pads, you should always change the rotors. Otherwise you will have vibration and pulsing problems. If you are wondering about machining rotors, those days are long gone. For the DIY, you will have a hard time finding a shop that will machine it for you and you will end up with a thinner rotor which leads to rotor warping. Just replace them.
Why didnt u adjust the e-brake
Because there is no reason to adjust it. It's working fine. I didn't replace the e-brake.
Hey does this work on the 2013 pathfinder also
Yes
I believe this generation started in 2013
Thanks for the info! I updated the title.
Where did you get the torque spec from?
Nissan factory service manual.
@@dial2fast Thanks. Do you have to pay to access it?
What kind of anti-seize did you used?
For the pad, I used Versachem synthetic grease. The slide pin, I used Silglyde. All the links are in the video description.
@ 8:30 this anti-seize isn’t on the video description, or does the brand not matter?
@@gerardopiedra3748 Sorry left out the anti-seize for the wheel hub. I have updated the links. This is what I used amzn.to/3iLBXan
Me personally I’d never lifer a car on a subframe for peace of mind I’d lift the rear by the differential a sub frame is a small frame inside a frame or unibody chassis I’d never lift the vehicle on this as it can misalign suspension components if bent or tweaked will it happen every single time no but for peace of mind I wouldn’t do it
You didnt show how the brake pads go in. Just grease
And I need to know the wear indicator placement , in or out top or bottom