2011-2015 Ram truck headlight problem video followup and connector fix
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- čas přidán 8. 04. 2017
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Here is the link to the original video that included the headlamp assembly removal: • 2011-2015 Ram truck he...
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Link to this video: • 2011-2015 Ram truck he...
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(365) - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I have watched 100's of CZcams videos and by far this is the BEST one yet. Excellent job! Very professional and very knowledgeable.
Many thanks for that feedback. Its always cool to hear from viewers like yourself. Your words help to motivate. Subscribe and check out my other videos as well.
Thanks so much for sharing this fix with us. This made so much sense, don't know why I didn't think of it. I saw this video about a month ago, went out and bought the needed parts, did the repair in about 20 minutes (start to finish, one light) and I'm just so happy to have both headlights working again. Over one month later and not a single issue. Really appreciate you.
Thanks to you I fixed my issue on my own! I learned something new and I thank you for making it so simple 👍
Glad I could help. Thanks for ending up at my channel/video. I appreciate the comment and feedback. Make sure to subscribe and Merry Christmas
I had the same problem and it was driving me crazy, that's until I seen your video!!! thanks a million for this informative information.
This guy is great, very knowledgeable, thanks for the video
I have the best viewers by far! Thanks for the awesome feedback and make sure to subscribe!
Thank you for the video. Fixed my issue on the ram! Cheers.
Man! Thanks! Your an excellent teacher! I have a 2012 and fixed the issue by watch you you!
Your welcome Ediberto! Thanks for watching this video. Glad that it helped to fix your issue. Make sure to subscribe and check share the videos with others.
Thank you, excellent video with clear step-by-step explanations and nothing skipped or glossed over. Gonna try this on my 2015 RAM 1500 with low beam headlight issue. Subscribed.
Your welcome and thanks for noticing the work that goes into these videos. I appreciate those kind words. Thanks for subscribing as well!
Thanks again David, my 2012 Ram 1500 right headlight has been giving me fits. I now have a permanent fix.
Your welcome Steve. Hope it fixes the issue. 'thanks for watching and Happy New Year!
jumped in my Ram this weekend and noticed my drivers side headlamp not reflecting off of the garage door. Hit the highbeams and both drivers side lamps are dark. Highly unlikely I lost both lamps at the same time so I go to youtube and find your videos. Bypassed the green connectors and everything works now. Took about an hour as I was in my driveway, in Phoenix, 110 degrees so I wasn't sprinting through it. Thanks so much for posting these videos, they are a great help.
Awesome.....another fixed! Thanks for searching and for watching my video. Appreciate it and make sure to subscribe!
The perfect follow up to the original video. I'm subscribed now. Thanks again !
I need to make time to do this. My temporary fix was to tie a string around the harness and pass it up through the fender so I can pop the hood and give the string a tug to get the lights to come back on!
Great video. The exact problem I’ve been having. Didn’t know you could wire it direct. Thanks.
Just as everyone else watching, I am having the same issue. Fairly simple fix, but your videos really shed light on the actual problem and the solution. You put out some very informative videos. Thank you for your help. Definitely subscribing.
Many thanks Steven for the great feedback and for finding the video as well. Glad to see that people are listening lol. Appreciate you subscribing as well.
Thank you so much for all your video's! ! !
Your welcome James. Make sure to subscribe if you havent already.
ive just purchased 4th set of headlights for my 2015 ram 1500 had everything in my shop to do this long ago , gonna do it tomorrow great video bro , wish me luck and i will like and subscribe.
Great info. Thank you for taking the time to make this video.
Your welcome. Thanks for watching. Make sure to subscribe.
Excellent work and narration. Thank you.
Thank you very much! Make sure to subscribe if you havent alreay.
Thanks for the detailed repair.
Well done! The video visuals are spot on! Good job dude!!!
Thanks James! Appreciate the feedback. Make sure to subscribe and check out my other videos when you get time
Thank you very much for the show.
Your welcome. Make sure to subscribe.
First off, I have a 16, 2500. It has a new battery and new alternator. My headlights dim and sometimes flicker when I hit the brakes or adjust the AC/Heater blower. Do you think this could be my issue?
Bravo on the high quality and very professional video.
Thank you! This is the connector I'm having issues with! I can bump it and it starts working for a whole year 🤣
Thanks Bud for the Very informative video! Your Mopar Awesome!
Your welcome! Just trying to share the knowledge. Thanks for watching. Make sure to subscribe!
Thanks for another awesome video!
Always glad to be able to help. Enjoy your weekend!
Awesome video thanks..
I am so thankful I found this excellent video tutorial, thank you.... Can I ask if there's any disadvantage with doing away with the connector and soldering it direct?
Great video 👍 It helped me fix my 2013 2500 passenger side low beam issue 🥳🥳🥳
Awesome. Always happy to help out
As usual you rock sir !!!!!!!!
Thanks Jason!
I watched the headlight replacement video and then this one. YOU have a new subscriber!!!! I am hoping this is not the current problem with my 2011 RAM 1500!! Getting ready to go find out, replacing all headlamps. Thank you for your knowledge and making video's for us MOPAR guys!!!
Thanks for finding the channel and for watching this video. Its much appreciated along with you having subscribed. Always happy that I can help out.
I have a 2011 Ram 1500 that I have suffered with headlights being out almost since the warranty went out. I knew the problem was the connector, but couldn't find a cheap fix. This video was the cheap fix.
Another great video....thanks for the proper information. Maybe when I find the time to I can do this on my Ram truck. Already took the headlights out and messed with the connections and both lights worked for a short time but then the right headlights all went out again. Thank you for taking the time to make, edit, and upload these videos it really helps out a lot.
Thanks for watching. Im sure your issue will be the same as in the video. Do the repair and you wont have any further issues. Make sure to subscribe!
I ❤ live love you and your videos! I was brought up to be able to fix simple things on my vehicles. But those Ram headlights give me trams. But saving Grace is your befits. Most helpful for a 74 years young great grandma!
Thank ❤you from the bottom to the top of my heart❤
❤
Great video thanks I am having this problem with my ram and they was going to charge me 300 bucks to fix at my local dealer now I can do myself I have subscribed to your channel thanks for the answer on the glove question the other day
Thanks for finding and for watching my video. Not to mention subscribing as well! Many thanks
Enjoy your video's . Great tech / teacher
Thanks Kenneth!
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thanks for throwing the butt connectors in the trash because the only thing that really works with butt connectors is the name... "Butt" because that's what they're worth. My background is from Navy Avionics training 30 years ago when they taught us to be electronics technicians, and since, I've done everything from installation to full design and integration of Intelligent Transportation Systems for transit authorities from Bar Harbor, Maine to San Diego, California. The only place that a crimp connector should ever be used is at a connection point designed for disconnecting for ease of replacement, removal, or testing. Even then, a crimp connector isn't enough. It's a vehicle. It endures harsh conditions from sea spray to road salt to high humidity.
So, when you use a crimp connector, make sure that the following items are at least looked at seriously if the wiring is supposed to last more than a week (seriously, I've seen wiring corrode and disconnect in less than a month because these standards weren't followed when installing the equipment):
- Make sure that only the minimum number of connection points are made. The fewer, the better.
- The only place a crimp connector should ever be used (avoid altogether if possible), is where a designed and necessary disconnection location is needed for replacement, remobal, or testing of a component is going to be needed. Example - a horn has a connection point - 1 connection point, and that is where the harness meets the horn or where it is designed to be disconnected for removal to get to other parts or replacement due to defect of the horn. That's it, 1 place only.
- If a crimp connector is used, it must have it has a shrink material as the insulator where the wire enters the crimp.
- The crimp connector must be the correct gauge for the wire used. Yes, people will double the wire, but that's not how its done correctly or for the best probability of it being problem free for the longest duration of time.
- Even more important than making sure that shrink type of insulation is on the crimp wire, THE SHRINK INSULATION MUST BE HEATED UP AND SHRUNK AROUND THE WIRE!!!!! It does no good to use the correct materials, then not heat the darn thing up to shrink the insulation and glue to the wire. I've seen that one ten thouand times or more and that one absolutely angers me to know that someone did the material selection and crimp correctly, but the connection corroded because they didn't shrink the darn thing to lock out moisture. Ugggghhh!!!!
- It's not a bad idea to put shrink tubing over the connection after it is connected and shrink it into place as long as you're sure that the connection is correct and won't need to be disconnected for some length of time in the future. it's just shrink tube and its really cheap. Go ahead and slip a piece over the connection so it keeps moisture and contaminates out of the connection point.
These tips help, but quite honestly, nothing beats getting a good, quality Deutsch connector with the correct pinning tool (or solder on pins), the correct seals, and creating a professional connector. Other manufacturers I highly recommend and that are easily found are Weatherpak, Amphenol, and Molex.
Anyone who uses a scotch connect, or those clip on connectors, I already have your soul in a jar for your afterlife because there is nothing, absolutely nothing, less forgivable than a scotch or clip on connector. Every time a person uses one of those, an angel loses one wing and has to fly in circles for eternity. Now how do you feel about using them? Go out to the car now and replace all of those with solder and shrink tubing, immediately.
Subbed! Great video my man.... about to start on mine now
Thank you Tony! That cause is the most common and hopefully the same for you. Appreciate you subscribing as well.
Exactly what I had to do. Connector was a POS. Good video
Hate that it became an issue....but now that you made that repair you wont have that issue....at least on that side, possible the other however. Thanks for the feedback and make sure to subscribe
I would like your thoughts on the self soldering shrink connectors.
I've been using these for about a year now, and have had amazing luck with them. I have a fellow bringing his 2011 2500 next week, should be easy except for the HD grill guard installed on it. I'm sure I'll have the information I need to make the repair thanks to your video.
Great job!
I'm glad you trough those butt connectors away, , another great video!
Thanks Ralph. Yeah those things have no place in any repair.
Thank you man thannnnnkkk yooouuuu you saved me some money
Awesome! Glad I could help
I spent hundreds of dollars on my headlight im hoping to resolve the problem with this video thank you!!!!!!
I hope its as simple as what you see in the video....it was common back in the day as far as the cause of the issue. Thanks for watching and make sure to subscribe.
Doing this now on my 2012. Thanks.
Your welcome and thanks for checking this video out
Sick almost wasted money on a new pigtail or connector. For wtv reason I didn’t even think to just eliminate the connector. Thanks dude!
Your welcome Matt! Thanks for finding this video and the channel. Make sure to subscribe!
Thanks for the video.
Your welcome Chris. Thanks for watching it. Dont forget to subscribe if you havent already
I have a simple one for you, Mc M. I recently replaced the ultra dim halogen bulbs in our 2014 Chrysler 300 C with LED bulbs ( Diode Dynamics ). I would like to aim them slightly higher, and the right lens slightly more to center. Some model years of the 300 C have a slotted hole in the radiator support member to allow access to an adjustment screw. The 2014 has no such hole. Can you please tell me where the adjustments are for vertical and horizontal aiming of these projection headlights? As always, thanks for all the knowledge you share on this great channel.
Does this work on 2012 ram with LED halo headlights. Has 1 headlight. And seems like a fishbowl like headlight lense. Has halo around headlight n also like a led strip down it inside the housing
Hey man, THANK YOU SO MUCH, for all your videos, they've been so helpful.
I have a 2012 3500 and my turbo actuator went bad, I know that the 2014 actuator has a different harness, if I get the harness, will I be able to fit the 2014 turbo actuator to my 2012?
They need to recall their damn headlights! Ive been having problems with my 2009 rams headlights and foglights for 2 years! Bullshit! But thanks for the video
I am not a fan of the issue either Mitch. About all we can do is make calls to Chrysler explaining our concerns and hope that with enough complaints....something gets done. Thanks for watching and make sure to subscribe!
I brought mine to a shop. After all day, I was told I needed a TIPM unit. Guess what, didn't work. They were lucky that they took the TIPM back. Still don't have passenger side low or high beams. But I do have an operational amber and blinker!!
@@brianreyes6927 Did you find the problem?
Is the middle wire constantly hot. I'm trying to figure out which one to tap into. For a extra marker light in the grille
David. Thanks for all you do to help. My issue: driver side headlight low beam out. I decided to replace both side low and high beam bulbs. I inspected the connectors attaching to back side of each bulb and didn't notice any deformity; thought all was good. Few days later I noticed when locking my truck with remote, head lights flashed (as is normal) but low beam didn't flash on. I pressed remote lock unlock on key fob and this time came on and the next time it didn't. How do you know when main connector is gone bad if no physical sign exist when conducting visual inspection. And do I order this part in your link below for this repair. Thanks...Brooks Dodge Ram 2012 Laramie Longhorn 4wd, 1500.
I’ve replaced headlight harness twice now. Enuff- Will try this!! Thanks!!
This method always worked best for you me in the long wrong. Thanks for watching and sorry about the on going issues your having
Gracias amigo great video I need to repair my 2010 Dodge Ram I got the same problem tnx 🇲🇽🇲🇽🇲🇽🇲🇽🇲🇽🇲🇽🇲🇽🇲🇽
I have a question on 2014 town and country headlight problem. sometimes when I go to highbeams I seem to lose power to dash, Radio, heat, all warning lights come on. It will all come right back on except some of the warning lights may stay on. When I shut it off and restart all seems fine and no problems if I don't use my highbeams. I've read about the tipm problems but haven't seen this problem mentioned. Any ideas? My local dealer says they can't duplicate and no codes set. I am subscribed as I had the 3.6 oil filter leak and your video on that got my dealer to fix under power train warranty. thanks.
Do you think something like this would cause park light out even tho is working i just install new headlights on my truck is a 2014 ram
David! You the man! I changed my bulbs today to LED H11 and 9005 i believe passenger side came together no problem. Drivers side, low beam prong too close together wouldn't fit , accidentally pull the three wires out red ,black and green. The other side wht/blk, wht/brown, white. Wire kept slipping out green connector, got it together only high beams work, i gave up , after watching this video, i know i can cut off the connector, im going fix that light. All i have to say is i appreciate the video, ill let you know how it goes, Thank you.
Thanks for watching. If you do that repair you should have any further issues. I appreciate the comment and feedback. Make sure to subscribe.
Would plumber sautter be the same kind of salter could I use that for sautering my wires together
I did it and it worked
Your is extremely helpful! Unfortunately, when I got the headlights off they are not wired as indicated on your video. I have a 2015 RAM Laramie with the auto high beam feature. It has a couple extra circuits with a connector or interface marked "AUXITO". Any suggestions on this dilemma? Thank you. Robert S
what about projector headlights with the same issue low beam not working , l took out the driver side headlight pluged it in the passanger side and it worked so l know my bulbs are good
Was plagued with lights coming on and off, and when you take the light out to look at it ,it always worked. This time I left the light on for 15 minutes. Then found 1 of the wires coming out of the connector quite warm, I knew you were on to the problem.
It will always start working while your checking it. I always think the best method is removal of the connector. No chances of it overheating or the lights failing when you need them the most. Thanks for checking the video out and for your time commenting. Make sure to subscribe
Good video.... Thanks
Thanks Howard!
Thanks for the videos, I have a 2014 ram, I replaced the harness and removed the connection, but I'm still having headlight issues.
Question - I have a 2015 Dodge Ram 1500 Big Horn with moisture inside the driver's side headlight assembly. Is that something that can be repaired or would it be best to replace the entire assembly?
Having same problem so i straight wired like u show and still have no lights. Have power at end of both pig tails at the bulbs with new bulbs. My question now is, could it be grounding ? So i will try a single ground to passenger side. The drivers side was jumper harness connection burnt.
Just fixed mine. When I undid the factory electrical tape, it broke the center ground wire. Soldered and heat shrink did the trick. Thanks! Ps. None of my connectors had carbon and they were not burnt.
I would say that 90% of the time the connector looks great and its a terminal issue. Removing the connector and soldering the wires is my go to method. Thanks for watching and for the comment! Dont forget to subscribe.
Question , would you not unlock the connector and re pin the terminals then reinstall? Or re pin and install to a new connector? Not sure I would like the factory harness cut into. Thoughts??/
where does fog light harness plug in to? for 2012 ram 2500
I was wondering if I could remove the connector and do this. Im about to start an early AM shift, and will be driving in the dark every morning. These connectors are kinda pricey at $35 each! This is a cheap fix, thank you.
Its the method we use and havent had any issues. We see similar issues with connectors under the seat related to the airbags.....Chevy does as well which pretty much means the same company makes them for both of us. Thanks for watching and make sure to subscribe.
Hey David, I am sure you are aware but there are weatherproof Butt connectors that offer the trifecta of goodness. They consist of crimp, shrink tube with the sealant, as well as solder. You crimp wire in place first and then when you heat the shrink tubing it also melts a solder load from the center of the connector into the wires. I love the stuff. It is a bit pricey for Butt connectors. However, they can be found on sale. Again, I like the triple redundancy. I will say they are usually a specialty item not found at your local auto parts store. All i can find at auto center is solder and shrink without crimp.
The ones I showed in the video are the weather proof heat shrink style butt connectors. We have one tech that uses them in the shop and here are my experiences........there have been 4 different vehicles that have either come in or returned that had repairs made with those style butt connectors. One was a truck that had the wiring damaged and the air bag wires repaired using those butt connectors......it had been to 3 different shops since that repair and no one could find the issues. I eventually located the issue under the carpet....and guess what was used....those butt connectors. Another vehicle that the tech I mentioned worked on in the past....had been back to the shop off and one over the last year at least 5 times for an intermittent airbag light.....I eventually get it and what do I find, that tech used those same butt connectors on an air bag wiring repair and every other tech has been chasing their rears ever since that repair. The butt connectors were the cause. The tech even covered those butt connectors with the black heat shink so we thought they were soldered repairs. This keeps getting repeated with the other 2 vehicles as well. So I started to see a pattern and each of those times....the same cause. I have heard of some used at the Mercedes dealers. But what I have found as you mentioned is that people are getting the versions at the parts store which is no where the same as the high end versions your mentioning. The average DIY or local repair shop gets what ever the local parts stores have on the shelf and ends up being brands like the Dorman version in the video. Far from the best thats out there. Thats why I dont want people confusing the cheap trash worthy butt connectors with the high end versions. So the best thing I can recommend is soldering the wires and heat shrink. Only cost is the heat shrink and no need in hoping that the parts person gets you the good stuff. I guess I am trying to figure the easiest way and way to insure no further issues. I just waited in the past getting burnt by those mentioned repairs I came across. Its always one thing to find an issue that happened....but to find out it was caused by another tech.....thats when I started having a bad taste in my mouth about the butt connectors. Appreciate the comment and discussion. Thanks for taking the time to watch the video as well. Its always appreciated!
2007 dodge 1500 right head light not working, change the light bulb and still not light up, what do you think is the issue? Pls make a video for it?
righteous man
Thanks for watching and for the comment. Dont forget to subscribe and check out my other videos as well.
Can u tell me which wires is posative ground on the truck wires ?
I'm trying to troubleshoot issue with some new headlight assemblies I purchased for 2010 Dodge RAM 1500. I parking lights work, and high beams work, but low beam not working at all. Any thoughts ideas where I should start?
Great video, I will subscribe! What does this fix though? In my case, I have both headlights (high/low beams) that aren’t working. Would this video be the remedy for my problem? I’m at a loss!
Would this connector also cause a problem with the turn signal? I went to swap my high and low beams for LEDs, now the high beam and turn signal won't work.
My truck has the dual, not quad bulb headlight assembly. With that being said the main green connector coming from the truck is plugged directly into the bulb so I cannot just hard wire like shown I have to replace the green connector. I can’t find the exact connector online anywhere. Any guesses on where I can find one?
i vote for soldering and shrink tube, always more reliable than any crimp on, which will corrode in a few months also even if you got it great right now, as a testament to that method, my garden outside wiring is done that way, all weathers wet, sun snow, been there 8 years and no wiring issues.
The heat shrink with the sealant is the key as well. Got to make it 100% water proof.....the cheap stuff doesnt do that. Thanks for watching and for the comment.
Is this fix for no low beams only high beams or no lights or intermittent lights? My issue is no low beams only Hobby
Thanks! It worked fine with aftermarket housing not with stocks just my passenger low beam switched bulbs and everything you know if this would be covered in warranty? I got like 2 months left.
It would be covered under the basic 3 year/36,000. Not sure about anything after that. Thanks for watching and make sure to subscribe.
How did you know it was the connector?
How did you test it ?
I have a ram 3500 megacab 2011
Driver side low beam doesn't work have changed the bulb
What are those connectors that your using actually called
How do I fix the other wiring harness connected straight to the bulb I can’t find the harness anywhere
Any advise
ok so I still couldn't get my headlight to work I checked the plug with a test light and nothing. I turned the brights on and it lit up. so if I'm not getting power down the white blue striped wire, where do I go from there
2015 ram, driver side low beam works, but the high beam doesn’t?
Do you know where exactly the headlights fuse or is located ??? ..
Ram 2011
Hello I got a 2021 ram 3500 tradesman 6.7 diesel. Put new windshield wiper motor and switch fuse is good and still not working.
Great vid!
Other then just shaking the connecter itself to see if that was the source of the problem, is there any other symptoms that would be "tell tail signs" it is solely the connector?
I did another video where I have you check the connector at the bulb to see if any overheated terminals. Otherwise the connector in the video is the most common issue. Thanks for watching and make sure to subscribe
I had 2006 Ram 2500 6.7 left head light wasn't working.
Used mt Cts programer to check for codes None . Hit clear codes and light started working again. No more trouble.
I have a 2013 ram 1500 with the green headlight connector issue on both headlights. When I wiggle the connector the lights come on but one side the top light is on and the bottom is out but the other side the top light is out and bottom one is on. What could be causing that?
great video... should be a recall same with death wobble
I agree about the headlight issue for sure. I dont see the death wobble issues where I am located. Many years ago I would come across it on certain vehicles but not these days. I hear about it but just dont see it at our shop. Doesnt mean it doesnt happen however. Thanks for watching and make sure to subscribe and click on the bell icon as well.
We had a deep freez 3 days ago when the ice melted off of it my windshield wipers stop working and my head light on the driver side stay on even when I cut off the lights on the truck got to take top post battery end off to make my head light on my 2012 dodge ram go off can somebody please help me.
Thanks for the insight. 2012 Ram 3500 - dealing with a "No Bus" issue for well over 2 months. TIPM replaced, guage cluster replaced twice by the dealer. Do you have any suggestions what could cause this problem? Wipers come on, all gauges go to zero, turn signals don't work, ect.
Any ideas??
A no-bus message issue is a hard one to diag. Its hard to find and sometimes you just stumble across it by accident while checking the systems out. There is no common issues that I know of that can cause this concern and nothing I can point you towards at this early point. Its going to be about finding a good tech that knows that they are doing and them spending some quality time with the vehicle to hopefully isolate the issue.
Great job on your videos. You've found two of my issues for me. Plugged evaporator on ac and headlight. You seen intermittent svc 4wd light, and any suggestions?
Jason Woodward Glad I could help in both cases. As far as the 4WD message.....there will be a code set. It will take a scanner that can access all the control modules to see what it might be. From there we will have a direction to go in. Otherwise it could be one of many possible causes. Thanks for watching and for the question
MotorCity Mechanic know of a scanner the general public can afford that will do this. My tuner reads dtm codes never sets a code their but could be a code in tcm I'm guessing. Thinking my issue is in connector.
There is a very cheap scanner thats $100.00 that is a basic code reader like everything else on the market but it comes with one added feature.....you get one free download of a "brand" of vehicle such as Chrysler. That download will then let you see all the modules and even the data. You cant command anything on or run any tests but you will be able to get the codes and see data for that module. The scanner is slow as hell but being that it can access all the modules for $100.00......I am okay with waiting as it goes thru each one and lets me in. Here is the direct link to that scanner.....it might take some time downloading the free "brand" but their customer support was very helpful when I had an issue with it. www.amazon.com/Autel-Diaglink-Version-Diagnostic-Transmission/dp/B01N0QQZY7/ref=as_sl_pc_qf_sp_asin_til?tag=motorcmecha01-20&linkCode=w00&linkId=38c097986772e9739e16306ab05b315a&creativeASIN=B01N0QQZY7
Do you have any advice on how to align my 2016 chrysler 300 headlights horizontally and maybe vertically? I paid someone to put in HID lights in but they did a choppy job.
If you email me at david@motorcitymechanic.com I can send you the information.
The headlights come on and flicker off at the start of the headlights being turned on. Will this fix the problem?
Just found your channel because my passenger headlight is off most of the time but work sometimes. Will check into using this fix this weekend? Just to be sure, it you wiggle the connector and it comes on, this is most likely the problem? Great video and I subscribed for sure. Look forward to watching more videos about my 2013 Ram 1500. Thanks!
If the like comes on or goes off with the connector wiggled then I recommend doing the repair in the video. Thanks for watching and definitely check out my other videos. Appreciate you subscribing as well. Many thanks.
One question, do you have to unhook the battery or is it on to have the light switch in the off position?
No need to disconnect the battery on this repair. Just make sure that lights are turned off and you will be fine.
Great video, awesome knowledge. I'm having the same issue on my 2011, before I do this to mine just wanted to ask if you had the issue come back after you've done this or is this a permanent fix? I know you mentioned about not having any intermittent issues but I just wanna make sure.
Those that I have fixed havent come back again. Its the method I recommend for sure. Thanks for asking and make sure to subscribe.
MotorCity Mechanic would you do this if the headlights randomly flicker and come on and off?
I wonder why doesn't RAM come up with a decent quality connector?
The connector is outsourced and made by another company which means....they most likely have made the same connector for another brand as well. I can assure you that Ram isnt the only car company that has connector issues. I hear from other techs that work with VW and Volvo and they too have a few that have common connector issues. Might be time to rethink the style of connector or pin/terminal type for sure.
this is true. i see connector problems alot. they arent a CAR mfg part but outsourced like he said. so more than likely there wont be an updated or better version. unlees you look to aftermarket but then still can be iffy. BTW great job on instructions. you are like me at your age!!!!! keep wrenching brother!!!!
Good fix. Shouldn't the average bym try the connections by turning the headlight on before soldering and heat shrink?
The best way to test for that connector issue is usually when the headlight isnt working.....then if you move/wiggle it and it starts working....you know the rest of the story. Time to cut and solder. Otherwise I hate to see someone do the repair unless the issue is happening and can be 100% sure thats the issue. Thanks for the comment.
what was the symptoms to prompt this repair also I have an 09 ram 1500 TRX the right head light keeps going out and bumping the light sometimes it will come back on the bulb appears to be good is this the most likely problem or the harness I am going to use your video on the evaporator removal tomorrow great videos and I appreciate you always answering the questions subscribed for some time now bell is clicked Thank you in advance
It was the typical no headlight issue. Bulb was good and touching/wiggling the connector made it start working. That connector is the most common issue I have come across and possibly your issue as well. Thanks for always following and for supporting the channel!
Having the same exact problem with my 2010 TRX right head light. After 3 times in the shop, was told I need to replace the harness and the quote was $800!! Think I can follow this vid and save some cash!