Awesome work, a credit to everyone past and present working on the project, can't wait to see her take shape in new year and fly. Happy New year to all
,,, at a minium should ball mic your bearing shells, just to make sure they are a matched set. No oversize, or undersize that might have somehow got in the package. I'd also go with a professional assembly lube, not a viscosity improver. Btw, fan of your amazing build . Also, pressure fed plain bearings (in a located or doweled housing) don't bed in. They hardly touch, except a little on a start up . ,, ,,, also lose the epoxy, small tapered pipe plug, with a single drop of Loctite .
@@gsxr1kmatt ,,, these are not poured and or hand scraped and or babbit bearings, they are precision, pressure fed, with a set clearance, and should have practically no marks when turned by hand, using an assembly lube. Also just turning the shaft by hand you should barely be able to feel the slight drag of the seals . Most of the torque on an assembled engine is ring drag . ,, ,,, so yes, but I can't see them real well on my device, it makes me suspect lateral assembled case shift .
@@norwescan ,,, not bad, but at the level Peter is seeking, the whole deal needs looked over with ten thousandth reading mics and dial bore gauge . Housing bores, bearing shells, clearances. The bearing manu ought to have a recommended clearance. If not I would work for .002, plus or minus 2 ten thousandths .
I really like your prop shaft drive housing, one suggestion on the thrust washer fix though would be to weld, heat treat, and re-machine, rather then JB weld. The housing surface under the bearing shell ends up having a high hoop strain due to the crush and depending on the origin of the oil feed and storage conditions it can have back temperatures as high at 250F and as cold as -40F. Because the bearing back is steel this means the strain will vary with the difference in thermal expansion of the steel and aluminum. There is also obviously dynamic reaction loads induced into the housing from the torsionals of the shaft and vibrations from the mount. JB weld doesn't have the same elastic modulus or coefficient of thermal expansion as aluminum so there is going to be some amount of stress at the bond and its strength will be decreased at those temperatures despite a 500F temp rating. It will definitely work for some period of time, but I wouldn't plan on that being permanent unless you run all the stress calculations and determine the bond strength within the operating envelope. Great job with this!
It's 7075 so it can't be welded so instead of the JB weld, today I drilled and tapped a 4-40 threaded hole and put in a flat head screw which blocks the passage nicely. You'll see it in the next video.
I understand that this article is the prototype but swapping the lock to something a little more secure might be prudent. That lock appears to be a wafer lock and those are essentially the illusion of security and can easily be defeated by a child with a hairpin. It would be fairly trivial to swap in an 'Abloy Protec2 Electronic Switch Lock' (as sold by securitysnobs .com). Honestly just about any pin tumbler would be better, even a cheap one from partsexpress .com. There's also the medeco rotary switch lock. Locks can be a complex topic and have a lot of weird specialty stuff. Perhaps just contact a local locksmith, i'm sure they would be excited to work on such an interesting and unusual (for them) project. Perhaps I'm just a lock nerd, this probably isn't a big issue, but I just cringed when i saw that lock. Cheers!
This apparently Rutan inspired design is so cool! I keep thinking the design looks friendly to be modified for thrust vectoring. But without a Chuck Yeager clone test pilot, that's probably out of the question.
where i can see how you make this wing? especialy the inside structure. Because i see only laminate videos wings but nothing structural. I want to avoid blend the wing and avoid dent in future use like usualy happen on surf table make with fiberglass and foam inside.
I've watched every one of your videos. ( Thanks for sharing. ) I think that once you get the doors and the re-drive down pat, the production should go good okay. I've watched you make a lot of moulds, and while the moulds that affect the doors and upper cabin might be large pieces, otherwise I have seen a swarm of other moulds go by that have nothing to do with the door/ fuslage areas. I think that devil is in the details, and perhaps maybe you will have one last fight for the doors on the new prototype, but it seems that most of the devil is behind you. It seems that your people can lay up the actual parts themselves fairly quickly. If you have "spare time" and want to go fuller OCD on the redrive, you could prop it up on three corners, with 123 blocks, and apply pressure either up or down to on the remaining corner see if torsion affects the case, while turning the shaft. If you can find some, copper pennies can keep the case from getting marred. And because some people have a knack of whispering self-doubt aloud: does the engine produce enough oil flow for the redrive? On that matter, the trust bearings could likely be lubricated to some degree, if some kind flow restrictor was put inline, such as a washer. BTW, JB Weld can be degraded by water immersion. If it could be done well, I would feel better if the extra lines in the redrive, were tapped, and perhaps a crush washer could be used, if it isn't JIC tapped or something already, and/or as long as the seating surface is nice. It would be something to test for a few heat cycles, too. If it's JIC, Parker would likely have a plug, if Aircraft spruces doesn't.
One question and it could be camera illusion but some of the fittings look really close to the engine mount. With the thickness of the isolation rubber between the engine and mounting frame could it flex enough to rub?
You have come a long way in 2018. I was wondering however what happened to the de-icing project since you have not (yet?) put any tubing into the wings.
From my experience in similar automotive setups i fear you will have oil leaking issues where the oring strips meet the shaft seals on that drive. Usually in automotive applications a joint like that calls for rtv or similar sealant to be applied where they come together. I also advise against oiling the outside of those shaft seals. Assuming they are rubber on the outside oiling them doesnt do any good and can actually encourage leaking.
@@RaptorAircraft oh ok. It looked like stp was put on the outside. I also dont think oiling the strip seals will do any good. Oiling orings is mostly to make sure they dont get messed up during install and dont run dry. Amazing work btw. My dad and i built a kr2 when i was young. This makes that look like a lego set:)
There are gaps at the leading edge of the front ribs and we will be strategically placing a single hole in other bays in order to allow pressure relief while still maintaining the ability to provide floatation in the unlikely case of an emergency water landing.
Gear boxes blow up. I've looked at all the possible redrives out there and there isn't one that would readily fit the Audi engine and provide the ratio we need, not to mention having an oil feed for the constant speed prop.
@@Gearlube_chain_wax_solutions because in that case what have we really done? Created a new aircraft with a wider cabin that costs as much to run and operate as existing aircraft. Right?
seriously J&B weld pleas get some weld and get it machined , and put some new bolt on the re-drive for final assembly torquing and removing assembly bolt stretch them and loos integrety i hope you now that right ?.
Don't know why this came up in my feed(actually I do know why).... but I had same thoughts as soon as he mentioned it... and to answer your question: I highly Doubt it. The clincher for, "I highly doubt it", is he is making a cozy, but calling it something else. An aircraft which requires 10 miles of runway to take off/land from, you can't use a gravel/grass runway, you can't see out of it worth a damn, and is only good from going from point A to point B at medium speed.... so you may as well fly COMMERCIAL.
Awesome work, a credit to everyone past and present working on the project, can't wait to see her take shape in new year and fly. Happy New year to all
G'day Peter, love the longer format, particularly on the weeks that have holidays in the middle. Best wishes Danny
All you guys do so much good hard work.. that center console looks good in carbon.
ive never been more anxious for this video
Great progress. Happy New Year to come.
Good work getting the motor done (love it)
I can't wait to see this thing fly
,,, at a minium should ball mic your bearing shells, just to make sure they are a matched set. No oversize, or undersize that might have somehow got in the package. I'd also go with a professional assembly lube, not a viscosity improver. Btw, fan of your amazing build . Also, pressure fed plain bearings (in a located or doweled housing) don't bed in. They hardly touch, except a little on a start up .
,,
,,, also lose the epoxy, small tapered pipe plug, with a single drop of Loctite .
@@gsxr1kmatt ,,, the case *needs* to be dowelled and checked with a one ten thousandth reading dial bore gauge !
@@gsxr1kmatt ,,, these are not poured and or hand scraped and or babbit bearings, they are precision, pressure fed, with a set clearance, and should have practically no marks when turned by hand, using an assembly lube. Also just turning the shaft by hand you should barely be able to feel the slight drag of the seals . Most of the torque on an assembled engine is ring drag .
,,
,,, so yes, but I can't see them real well on my device, it makes me suspect lateral assembled case shift .
I recommend using plati-gauge to check journal bearing clearances.
@@norwescan ,,, not bad, but at the level Peter is seeking, the whole deal needs looked over with ten thousandth reading mics and dial bore gauge . Housing bores, bearing shells, clearances. The bearing manu ought to have a recommended clearance. If not I would work for .002, plus or minus 2 ten thousandths .
If it ain't fly, it'll be for sure an awesome roll out - like the Stratolaunch :))
Can't wait until I see you flying this bird.
Wait...nothing on the doors?
.....we will live in hope!!!!
Fake video
dont need doors.
I really like your prop shaft drive housing, one suggestion on the thrust washer fix though would be to weld, heat treat, and re-machine, rather then JB weld. The housing surface under the bearing shell ends up having a high hoop strain due to the crush and depending on the origin of the oil feed and storage conditions it can have back temperatures as high at 250F and as cold as -40F. Because the bearing back is steel this means the strain will vary with the difference in thermal expansion of the steel and aluminum. There is also obviously dynamic reaction loads induced into the housing from the torsionals of the shaft and vibrations from the mount. JB weld doesn't have the same elastic modulus or coefficient of thermal expansion as aluminum so there is going to be some amount of stress at the bond and its strength will be decreased at those temperatures despite a 500F temp rating. It will definitely work for some period of time, but I wouldn't plan on that being permanent unless you run all the stress calculations and determine the bond strength within the operating envelope. Great job with this!
It's 7075 so it can't be welded so instead of the JB weld, today I drilled and tapped a 4-40 threaded hole and put in a flat head screw which blocks the passage nicely. You'll see it in the next video.
I understand that this article is the prototype but swapping the lock to something a little more secure might be prudent. That lock appears to be a wafer lock and those are essentially the illusion of security and can easily be defeated by a child with a hairpin. It would be fairly trivial to swap in an 'Abloy Protec2 Electronic Switch Lock' (as sold by securitysnobs .com). Honestly just about any pin tumbler would be better, even a cheap one from partsexpress .com. There's also the medeco rotary switch lock.
Locks can be a complex topic and have a lot of weird specialty stuff. Perhaps just contact a local locksmith, i'm sure they would be excited to work on such an interesting and unusual (for them) project. Perhaps I'm just a lock nerd, this probably isn't a big issue, but I just cringed when i saw that lock. Cheers!
This apparently Rutan inspired design is so cool!
I keep thinking the design looks friendly to be modified for thrust vectoring. But without a Chuck Yeager clone test pilot, that's probably out of the question.
where i can see how you make this wing? especialy the inside structure. Because i see only laminate videos wings but nothing structural. I want to avoid blend the wing and avoid dent in future use like usualy happen on surf table make with fiberglass and foam inside.
I've watched every one of your videos. ( Thanks for sharing. )
I think that once you get the doors and the re-drive down pat, the production should go good okay. I've watched you make a lot of moulds, and while the moulds that affect the doors and upper cabin might be large pieces, otherwise I have seen a swarm of other moulds go by that have nothing to do with the door/ fuslage areas. I think that devil is in the details, and perhaps maybe you will have one last fight for the doors on the new prototype, but it seems that most of the devil is behind you. It seems that your people can lay up the actual parts themselves fairly quickly.
If you have "spare time" and want to go fuller OCD on the redrive, you could prop it up on three corners, with 123 blocks, and apply pressure either up or down to on the remaining corner see if torsion affects the case, while turning the shaft. If you can find some, copper pennies can keep the case from getting marred.
And because some people have a knack of whispering self-doubt aloud: does the engine produce enough oil flow for the redrive?
On that matter, the trust bearings could likely be lubricated to some degree, if some kind flow restrictor was put inline, such as a washer.
BTW, JB Weld can be degraded by water immersion. If it could be done well, I would feel better if the extra lines in the redrive, were tapped, and perhaps a crush washer could be used, if it isn't JIC tapped or something already, and/or as long as the seating surface is nice. It would be something to test for a few heat cycles, too. If it's JIC, Parker would likely have a plug, if Aircraft spruces doesn't.
3:43 why no nitrile gloves?
10:55 "you ever try farming not high? Boring as sht"
Cool...cool! 😎
One question and it could be camera illusion but some of the fittings look really close to the engine mount. With the thickness of the isolation rubber between the engine and mounting frame could it flex enough to rub?
As I said in the video, once the Adel clamps are in place nothing will have the potential to rub anywhere.
Did you do a static test load on your spars..i just wonder.
Without locating pins on the drive, will it not move? Are the bolts machined to the same size as the bolt holes?
I did say that I'm putting dowel pins in it.
You have come a long way in 2018. I was wondering however what happened to the de-icing project since you have not (yet?) put any tubing into the wings.
We'll the strake tanks have the heating set-up in them but we're not heating the rest of the wings on the prototype in the interests of saving time.
From my experience in similar automotive setups i fear you will have oil leaking issues where the oring strips meet the shaft seals on that drive. Usually in automotive applications a joint like that calls for rtv or similar sealant to be applied where they come together. I also advise against oiling the outside of those shaft seals. Assuming they are rubber on the outside oiling them doesnt do any good and can actually encourage leaking.
I haven't oiled them and I did place some gasket seal at the intersections. Thanks.
@@RaptorAircraft oh ok. It looked like stp was put on the outside. I also dont think oiling the strip seals will do any good. Oiling orings is mostly to make sure they dont get messed up during install and dont run dry. Amazing work btw. My dad and i built a kr2 when i was young. This makes that look like a lego set:)
Yip I am still trolling your channel. great video
Have you pressure relief holes in the ribs? I haven't seen them
There are gaps at the leading edge of the front ribs and we will be strategically placing a single hole in other bays in order to allow pressure relief while still maintaining the ability to provide floatation in the unlikely case of an emergency water landing.
At this point with all the messing around with the redrive wouldn't just be easier to use a gearbox?
Gear boxes blow up. I've looked at all the possible redrives out there and there isn't one that would readily fit the Audi engine and provide the ratio we need, not to mention having an oil feed for the constant speed prop.
@@Gearlube_chain_wax_solutions because in that case what have we really done? Created a new aircraft with a wider cabin that costs as much to run and operate as existing aircraft. Right?
What’s the purpose or reason for post curing?
Let me Google that for you 😀
I could do that but I don’t always trust what’s on the internet. Wasn’t sure if it was aviation specific
@@micjbaronnothing is showing specific. It just improves the properties of the structure.
Thank you, love your videos and looking forward to selling my velocity to upgrade to a raptor
Is it just me, or is the music volume twice as loud as Peter taking.
Yeah, it's just you 😄
seriously J&B weld pleas get some weld and get it machined , and put some new bolt on the re-drive for final assembly torquing and removing assembly bolt stretch them and loos integrety i hope you now that right ?.
Don't know why this came up in my feed(actually I do know why).... but I had same thoughts as soon as he mentioned it... and to answer your question: I highly Doubt it. The clincher for, "I highly doubt it", is he is making a cozy, but calling it something else. An aircraft which requires 10 miles of runway to take off/land from, you can't use a gravel/grass runway, you can't see out of it worth a damn, and is only good from going from point A to point B at medium speed.... so you may as well fly COMMERCIAL.