Great video! When you release the linear tensioner after clamping, the clamps seem to move back a little. Seems like they have a little give. Doesn’t that reduce the overall tension?
The drawback you're referring to would be common in almost any machine, at least under the 6,000 dollar price point. Some of this is flex in the base clamp and some is the natural tolerance in the vertical telescopic clamp post that goes up and down. Most of this will be recovered on the next proceeding pull. All of it? I doubt it, but it is inherent in all of the machines that I'm aware of. I've never had the privilege of stringing on a high-end Babalot or Yonex machine like in the 10,000 to 12,000 price range. I'd be interested myself to know whether the clamp base and the clamp post have zero tolerance to eliminate this drawback entirely. Maybe somebody out there that's had the experience on a 10,000 plus dollar machines would have an answer to this question?
@@thewhlchrguy Thank you for your reply. I've been reading more about it, and some do indeed claim that most will be recovered at the next pull. Logically after a few of these tension could drop, and I think the solution could simply be to increase the tension by 1 or 2 lbs to compensate for this effect during the stringing process. I was considering a Pro Stringer which has flying clamps, which would likely have an even bigger drawback effect. I'm simply planning on playing with the tension to compensate... I don't have the space nor the money for a $6k+ machine. 😛
Ghost2 is a nice stringer thanks for vid. Just wondering why you weave 3 crosses and then pull all 3 instead of weaving 2 and only pulling one to start and then weave one pull one from there? It will make your weaving a lot easier.
@@thewhlchrguyI would offer more professional expert advice but most CZcams stringers get offended. You do need to change your weaving technique for speed and consistency.
8mm X 1-1/2" long cap head bolt. Remove black knob and install said bolt tight enough to support weight (about 30ish pounds of torque). Then you can remove the chrome plunger mechanism. If you pull the chrome knob out you'll see a place to use a wrench, then unscrew and eliminate.
I use to have a crank machine. Got the job done, but there's nothing like a constant pull machine with a locking table. More accurate and certainly more pleasurable to use.
still performs without any issues. very happy with the machine. however, at the current price I would probably choose the prince 7000. for a few hundred more you get bang for your buck.
I have a lot of stringers on my channel and I have to say - I love the attention to detail. Well done!
Nice side customizations mate!
I like that slide out tray....amazon find?
Great video! When you release the linear tensioner after clamping, the clamps seem to move back a little. Seems like they have a little give. Doesn’t that reduce the overall tension?
The drawback you're referring to would be common in almost any machine, at least under the 6,000 dollar price point. Some of this is flex in the base clamp and some is the natural tolerance in the vertical telescopic clamp post that goes up and down. Most of this will be recovered on the next proceeding pull. All of it? I doubt it, but it is inherent in all of the machines that I'm aware of. I've never had the privilege of stringing on a high-end Babalot or Yonex machine like in the 10,000 to 12,000 price range. I'd be interested myself to know whether the clamp base and the clamp post have zero tolerance to eliminate this drawback entirely. Maybe somebody out there that's had the experience on a 10,000 plus dollar machines would have an answer to this question?
@@thewhlchrguy Thank you for your reply. I've been reading more about it, and some do indeed claim that most will be recovered at the next pull. Logically after a few of these tension could drop, and I think the solution could simply be to increase the tension by 1 or 2 lbs to compensate for this effect during the stringing process. I was considering a Pro Stringer which has flying clamps, which would likely have an even bigger drawback effect. I'm simply planning on playing with the tension to compensate... I don't have the space nor the money for a $6k+ machine. 😛
Ghost2 is a nice stringer thanks for vid. Just wondering why you weave 3 crosses and then pull all 3 instead of weaving 2 and only pulling one to start and then weave one pull one from there? It will make your weaving a lot easier.
I'm not sure, I use to weave the way mentioned. For some reason I started doing 3 a few years ago. I'll try your way again and see if I can recall.
@@thewhlchrguyI would offer more professional expert advice but most CZcams stringers get offended.
You do need to change your weaving technique for speed and consistency.
What size cap head screws did you need for the base? Tired of string constantly getting caught too.
8mm X 1-1/2" long cap head bolt. Remove black knob and install said bolt tight enough to support weight (about 30ish pounds of torque). Then you can remove the chrome plunger mechanism. If you pull the chrome knob out you'll see a place to use a wrench, then unscrew and eliminate.
How does this compare to the Wilson Baiardo L? Both seem similar on paper while some say the ghost 2 is actually much easier to use.
Thoughts ?
was this machine an upgrade from a prior machine? have you ever used the pull clamp type? thoughts?
I use to have a crank machine. Got the job done, but there's nothing like a constant pull machine with a locking table. More accurate and certainly more pleasurable to use.
Where did you get the pull out tray
alphatennis.yourwebsitespace.com/machine_ghost
This is who I purchased from.
Hi sir, is that a good machine? Did you have any problem with that until now?
still performs without any issues. very happy with the machine. however, at the current price I would probably choose the prince 7000. for a few hundred more you get bang for your buck.
Where I can buy it?
What is that starting knot tool?
The white round one is by "Gugel tools" and there's another type made by "Kimony", but I prefer the first one. Both called starting knot tools.
@@thewhlchrguymost professional stringers refer to them as "Starting Blocks" or "Off Set Tool".
How much does that beast cost
Haven't checked in a while, probably around 3,500.
If want to order sir where do I can get
hi! can you share me the alpha machine website? thanks!
alphatennis.yourwebsitespace.com/machine_ghost