Get every last bubble of air out of your clutch system. Air in your clutch system causes a squishy pedal, less throw on the rod and the potential for moisture to enter the system.
@80mgbTahiti His method works because both sides are now uunder hydraulic pressure. When you push the clutch pedal to the floor, it forces all air out the bleeder valve, leaving you with a line full of fluid. When you push the piston back into the slave cylinder, with the other side already bled and not reset, you still have a line full of fluid under pressur with nowhere for air to go. Air will take the path of least resistance out the bleeder valve.
thanks, just replaced my clutch and my buddy pulled the high pressure lines from the slave cylinder instead of pulling the bolts and pinning it up, lol. this is exactly what i was looking for!
Great Vid, worked perfectly the first time I did it like this after over 2 hours of f-ing around in the normal manner of bleeding with Vac and gravity.. Thanks MOSS
Worked for me. My Subaru Liberty may never have had the clutch hydraulics flushed let alone bled for its first 12 years before I bought it, and trying regular bleeding was difficult; in fact, at my first attempt: I had the clutch pedal on the floor, cracked the bleeder, fluid came out, I closed the bleeder, then pulled the pedal back up and tried to re-gain pressure, but pressure wouldn't build up again. So after a long time operating the pedal to no avail, I pulled the pedal up, then cracked the bleeder & the old fluid was sucked back in! It was like a vacuum mysteriously appeared in the system, & the clutch felt no better. It feels better now, but is still fiddly to bleed. Maybe the cylinders are worn out or the seals are past use-by?
With the pedal down, the bleed holes past the master cylinder which would permit the fluid in the reservoir to make up the volume are blocked (otherwise, fluid would just bypass around the master cylinder's piston and back into the reservoir during pedal compression). There is no path for fluid to get from the reservoir to the clutch hydraulics with the pedal down; the displaced air volume can't be "replaced" in this manner.
Mounted to the gearbox the cilinder always hols a bubble of air. Therefore bleed the best you can. Refill the reservoir. Unbolt the slave. Rotate 20deg. Hold the piston with your left dumb.. Lower the slave a few millimeters towards your nose. Then open the bleedingscrew(?) with the other hand. The last bubbles will leave! Carefully remount the slave. 100 % succes. Good luck.
After 3 years Of the slave not working right I finally added some grease old-fashioned grease to the slave piston a very small amount and now I don't have to bleed it anymore....
What if the slave is lower than the master Then you can simply compress the slave And the air bubbles will come up into the reservoir without even touching a pedal
thanks for the video. we even purchased a $120 vacuum/pump kit and still no pedal. i had to say thanks because i was able to drive my GST last night after 6 days of bleeding tips and tricks that didnt work. 4-5 little air bubbles came out and then we were good.
Be aware that if you disconnect the push rod while having someone hold the pedal down you run the risk of pressure popping the piston out of the slave cylinder and you have to start all over again.
Had this same issue in my Silvia. The fork on the pedal has to be adjusted so its closer to the firewall. If it cant go more in, you might need a longer fork.
Not working for my MGA .!..Everything is new from moss the m/c hard line flex line slave cylinder . ..getting a soft pedal 3/4 down.not enough travel to disengage. The brakes work well....so my m/ c must be good..
No, because with it up, when you push in on the slave's rod you'll push air both out the bleeder and back into the clutch line. The best way to bleed the slave cylinder is to hang it vertically (disconnected from bell housing), and use an 80+ cc oil syringe to inject fluid into the slave cylinder through its bleeder; you're filling the system from the slave back to the master. Fluid level needs to be down in the master or you'll overflow. Worked the first time for me doing it this way.
Is there a tutorial on how to diagnose a clutch or hydraulic issue? When my 80 MGB is running I can't get it in gear. When off, I can put it in gear and barely bump the starter and the car starts to move. So I think I either have a master or slave cylinder issue. When I bleed the system the push rod moves, but don't know how far it should actually move the clutch fork.
ok help me, give me advice..the mechanic changed my Brake Fluid line on my jeep wrangler..right after that i noticed the Clutch is very hard when i step on it..very harddd to push** i went back and told him and he said NO One Touch My clutch..he saidd they just installed a new brake fluid line..what is the problem then? why is so hard?
This method will fail. With the slave piston depressed into the cylinder with the pedal down, once the bleeder is closed and the pedal is released there is no fluid to "make up the volume" as the master cylinder retracts as the pedal lifts. Therefore, the slave piston will be sucked further into the slave cylinder, buckling the piston-spring that's inside the cylinder. I have first hand experience with this behavior.
just use a hand pump with brake fluid open the bleed Connect the hose star pump fluid. All the air will flow through the master cylinder. make sure the master cylinder Reservoir is empty ;)
This title sounds like something out of a metal album.
LMAO!
Best comment on an automotive video.
"Short and sweet". Straight to the point and well explained.
Thank you.
Had my clutch working within 10 minutes of watching your video. Thanks for your help.
That's amazing just the small things
9 people dislike professionally presented clear and efficient instructions. lol
Exactly what I thought 6 years later
I love your videos , i can use them all while working with my classic cars .
All your videos very easy to understand and all works .
Thanks .
@80mgbTahiti His method works because both sides are now uunder hydraulic pressure. When you push the clutch pedal to the floor, it forces all air out the bleeder valve, leaving you with a line full of fluid. When you push the piston back into the slave cylinder, with the other side already bled and not reset, you still have a line full of fluid under pressur with nowhere for air to go. Air will take the path of least resistance out the bleeder valve.
thanks, just replaced my clutch and my buddy pulled the high pressure lines from the slave cylinder instead of pulling the bolts and pinning it up, lol. this is exactly what i was looking for!
Great Vid, worked perfectly the first time I did it like this after over 2 hours of f-ing around in the normal manner of bleeding with Vac and gravity.. Thanks MOSS
Worked for me. My Subaru Liberty may never have had the clutch hydraulics flushed let alone bled for its first 12 years before I bought it, and trying regular bleeding was difficult; in fact, at my first attempt: I had the clutch pedal on the floor, cracked the bleeder, fluid came out, I closed the bleeder, then pulled the pedal back up and tried to re-gain pressure, but pressure wouldn't build up again. So after a long time operating the pedal to no avail, I pulled the pedal up, then cracked the bleeder & the old fluid was sucked back in! It was like a vacuum mysteriously appeared in the system, & the clutch felt no better. It feels better now, but is still fiddly to bleed. Maybe the cylinders are worn out or the seals are past use-by?
simple and accurate well done good job pal
With the pedal down, the bleed holes past the master cylinder which would permit the fluid in the reservoir to make up the volume are blocked (otherwise, fluid would just bypass around the master cylinder's piston and back into the reservoir during pedal compression). There is no path for fluid to get from the reservoir to the clutch hydraulics with the pedal down; the displaced air volume can't be "replaced" in this manner.
I don't know how it worked for others, it shouldn't
Mounted to the gearbox the cilinder always hols a bubble of air. Therefore bleed the best you can. Refill the reservoir. Unbolt the slave. Rotate 20deg. Hold the piston with your left dumb.. Lower the slave a few millimeters towards your nose. Then open the bleedingscrew(?) with the other hand. The last bubbles will leave! Carefully remount the slave. 100 % succes. Good luck.
Awesome, this might be my problem. I'm going to give it a shot
So does this theroy still apply if doing a vacuum bleed, surely a vac bleed will force all the air out ?
Thank you I just played my clutch master cylinder
Can u please do a short video on replacing the clutch for a TR6?!
Thank you kindly
Can you make a step by step video on "regular bleeding"? I'm new to this and would need to how to "regular bleed" first before I perform this step.
Do a gravity bleeding first. ..
Good explanation.👍
Amazing, simply amazing
@mattluvsmud1989 The hydraulic slave in a drum type brake is called a wheel cylinder.
i like it ! short and easy to understand
Thank you, That was perfect
I did this and got no joy. Still pretty much zero resistance at the pedal. Going to try it again.
good video it solved my problem
After 3 years Of the slave not working right I finally added some grease old-fashioned grease to the slave piston a very small amount and now I don't have to bleed it anymore....
SWEEEEEEEEET! I was about to give up giant thanks and hugs and whatnot!
Amazing I have a Nissan truck and I have to do this every time I simply will not bleed the normal way
quick and simple
What if the slave is lower than the master Then you can simply compress the slave And the air bubbles will come up into the reservoir without even touching a pedal
hmm... i agree with you, same question...
thanks for the video. we even purchased a $120 vacuum/pump kit and still no pedal. i had to say thanks because i was able to drive my GST last night after 6 days of bleeding tips and tricks that didnt work. 4-5 little air bubbles came out and then we were good.
WOW why did I never think of this.
super THX i have this problem right now in my car.
Be aware that if you disconnect the push rod while having someone hold the pedal down you run the risk of pressure
popping the piston out of the slave cylinder and you have to start all over again.
Just cum on it
Had this same issue in my Silvia. The fork on the pedal has to be adjusted so its closer to the firewall. If it cant go more in, you might need a longer fork.
do you still have the silvia? lol would love to see it
Is it required to bench bleed the cluster master before installation on an MG midget?
Thanks for the vid. Doing this tomorrow on an Acura; will be making a vid. SUBBED.
Holy moly that makes sense
Very instructive... can someone please help me find the clutch slave cylinder on a 98 mazda 626 2l. ?
Not working for my MGA .!..Everything is new from moss the m/c hard line flex line slave cylinder . ..getting a soft pedal 3/4 down.not enough travel to disengage. The brakes work well....so my m/ c must be good..
awesome thanks mate!
You saved my ass ... thanks
No, because with it up, when you push in on the slave's rod you'll push air both out the bleeder and back into the clutch line.
The best way to bleed the slave cylinder is to hang it vertically (disconnected from bell housing), and use an 80+ cc oil syringe to inject fluid into the slave cylinder through its bleeder; you're filling the system from the slave back to the master. Fluid level needs to be down in the master or you'll overflow. Worked the first time for me doing it this way.
Question...as we are performing this,
the CAP on the reservoir should be On or Off ?
sorry for the dumb question.
Cap should be off watch fluid drop too off bleed
@@okksonny858 🙏👍Thank you. GOD bless you.
I've tried this method. But when it comes to pushing the slave rod in by hand... it doesn't budge. At a loss
Is the bleed screw open?
Tried pushing clutch fork in nuetral ruined fte slave..from autozone.... Wouldn't go in 1st year or anything after that..autozone is no good
How can I do this in Vauxhall vectra 2003? Pls help me
Awsme😊
How can i do this on my 05 mustang gt?
Break cable assembly on Dixie chopper lawn mower
Is there a tutorial on how to diagnose a clutch or hydraulic issue? When my 80 MGB is running I can't get it in gear. When off, I can put it in gear and barely bump the starter and the car starts to move. So I think I either have a master or slave cylinder issue. When I bleed the system the push rod moves, but don't know how far it should actually move the clutch fork.
Read somewhere it needs to travel at least 5/8 "
There won't be a vacuum becuase the space that was taken up by the air will be replaced by fluid from the reservoir.
ok help me, give me advice..the mechanic changed my Brake Fluid line on my jeep wrangler..right after that i noticed the Clutch is very hard when i step on it..very harddd to push**
i went back and told him and he said NO One Touch My clutch..he saidd they just installed a new brake fluid line..what is the problem then? why is so hard?
After replacing the brake line the BRAKES need BLEEDING...dosent sound like bleeding was done
Doesn't work on mine it is internal and concentric.
do you have video on replacing slave cylinder for '91 escort 1.9L by chance
He works for moss motors a british classic sport car parts vender..
disconnect the clutch arm linkage from the slave cylinder pushrod
No he meant the clutch pedal. You bleed the clutch just the same as you do the brakes.
@rhblakeman You got that right, GM is about the worst *&^% hydraulic clutch there is to bleed!
Hold down the brake pedal if you are bleeding the brakes. Hold down the clutch pedal if you are bleeding the clutch. :)
This doesnt work i tried it and i called a mechanic and he brought a pump and said the bubbles will stay in there regardless u cant bleed it out
This method will fail. With the slave piston depressed into the cylinder with the pedal down, once the bleeder is closed and the pedal is released there is no fluid to "make up the volume" as the master cylinder retracts as the pedal lifts. Therefore, the slave piston will be sucked further into the slave cylinder, buckling the piston-spring that's inside the cylinder. I have first hand experience with this behavior.
so my check engine light is on because my car has gas?!?!
just use a hand pump with brake fluid open the bleed Connect the hose star pump fluid. All the air will flow through the master cylinder.
make sure the master cylinder Reservoir is empty ;)
Tubing.....hmmmm
what does he say at 0:35 ? disconect what from the what my speakers are fukn garbage xP
so you do a video..thats great but cant actually answer any questions :/ not great
what is your question darling?
Oh hi , that was last yr lol I have forgotten the question and I got someone else to sort the problem ... But thanks anyway ...
you welcome