How To: Bleed Clutch System
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- čas přidán 3. 10. 2019
- How to bleed the clutch hydraulic system on an AE86. Applied to many other vehicles
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Just wanted to come back to comment. I watched this video after spending close to 5 hours trying to bleed my slave. I tried every method but I kept getting a dead pedal. I tried this method and within 5 min voila! I have a clutch pedal and can select gears! Massive thankyou!
You just blew my mind. Never thought to bleed it from the clutch fork. Thanks for your contributions to the Corolla community!
Hahahaha. Thank you for the kind words. Glad this helped!
It sucks to have to even do it that way if you cant find anyone to help you this has always been a good way to do it
How else were you bleeding it?
From the pedal like a normal person?
@@submissions72 i think he meant by pressing the clutch pedal whit the help of someone else while he is under
This is the most useful clutch bleed video I have seen. All others are garbage.
Thanks for helping me bleed my clutch. I was so stressed that I wouldn’t be able to do it myself. Thanks!
Awesome to hear my man! Glad you found this video useful!
Thank you, what a great way to go do this by myself because I have no one to come over and help me today. Thanks again.
Glad you find this useful! I am also a lonely mechanic and seldom have help!
I am about to undertake bleeding my clutch on my type r 2007 fn2 I have watched many videos and I have found this one the best by far I know mine will not be easy as not much room to get your hands in but I will work around that thanks mate you are a big help
Glad you found this vid useful. Cheers!
Thank you, I hadn't seen that before!
Looks like a CV boot is done for there.
Best regards, thank you again!!
Thanks for this ! I definitely needed this info for my 1964 dyna . Allison
Thanks for the watch Allison! Your transmissions are great!
Fantastic advice, thank you!
Great video bro. I am in the middle of replacing a clutch slave cylinder on my basic 06 Tacoma, 2.7L which actually runs off the brake master cylinder reservoir. I went crazy looking for a separate clutch reservoir. No separate reservoir. Just in case someone out there has the same truck as me. And I'm certain this will be easier than I thought. Thank you for the video.
Helpful information, thank you for sharing !
Glad to be of service!
Thank you very much for the video and sharing your knowledge.
You're an excellent teacher, really appreciate the explanations!
Thanks! Glad you liked it.
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@Michael Jefferson Instablaster :)
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Thanks so much you really help me out!
You got yourself a new subscriber
Thank you. I am having trouble with my clutch and I will bleed it the way you show us. Thank you.
Very useful information
The little black rubber thing in the river in the top of the Caps that extend down into the fluid are there to prevent splash splash can cause air bubbles into the fluid which will accumulate in the lines
Excellent job
Thank you for the kind words!
Great video
Struggled for 30 mins or so until I watched this and got working within 5 to 10 mins
👍thanks for sharing, very helpful!...
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you 🙏
Outstanding video
Thank you so much 😀
Thank you for your time making it easy for me
Glad you found this vid useful!
@@CMAutohaus more than helpfull. Here in Africa we google if we get stuck
Can you make video of what a Revisor or parts of this type of vehicle is I’m learning manual and only know a bit
Great video! Thanks for sharing your ideas. Thumbs up!
Thanks for watching!
Nice man thanks
You bet!
As an Miata NC owner, I'd appreciate videos specifying which vehicle you're demonstrating in the title. Ours are a bit different and it sucks to sit through an ad just to find out the video isn't for me.
The black cap shows how much fluid is in the reservoir…how it flows up when filled and how it drops when low…
I was looking for a general video while I’m servicing my 86’ mr2 and I found a video with the same exact engine
Nice! Glad you found this video useful!
Hey great video would this help a clutch pedal stuck to the floor!?
@CMAutohaus
Hey mate, great video very clear explanation. Thanks !
One question though, recently replaced rear drum cylinder was badly seized, bled system, LSV,RL,RR,FL,FR have solid pedal and braking, but experiencing a bubble effect and noise from master if I push the break with a bit of force, more noticeable with engine running.
Any ideas
Thank you brethren
Glad to help!
Thanks.
I probably need to bleed my prelude the same way. Its very common in the prelude to get the system bled right. It takes forever to get that pedal feel. Thabks, in going to do this merhod.
Broo how you did it, ive been trying all the methods with my prelude and nothing happens
@@joaquinacevedo6045 I ended up bench bleeding . Since I have an aftermarket line that goes to the slave cylinder, I put the line at the reservoir and you have someone repeatedly pushing down the pedal until you stop seeing air bubbles. Then I'll have that person hold down the pedal as I reconnect the slave cylinder. Once that's done, then you bleed it accordingly. Someone steps on the pedal a couple times then you bleed it etc. I will factor in that m.c was replaced by luk and the slave also. The duralast m.c blew out and my oriellys slave was not bleeding right, I went through 2 of them.I suggest to go with both with the luk brand. You can get them from an advanced auto. you'll find that it's a big difference
@@joaquinacevedo6045 what I ended up doing was bench bleeding it in the car. Since I have an aftermarket line to the slave I just set it in the clutch reservoir and have someone step or hand push the pedal until I see no more air bubbles appearing. Then I have that person hold down the pedal as I connect the line black on the slave. Once it's reconnected, open the bleed valve just enough for the fluid to come out, then have your helper release the pedal. If you don't see anything coming out, that's fine, just close the bleeder. Now bleed the clutch accordingly, 4,5 pump, hold etc. Eventually it will get better. Another note is don't use duralast or O'Reilly's master or slave. Duralast m.s.blew twice brand new. Then O'Reilly's has a bleed valve problem on the slave. I ended up using the luk brand for both from advanced. Make sure you set the m.s throw in the proper position, if you don't, the pedal won't contract right not giving a full pump and it will make bleeding endless. Once you change to luk, I guarantee you'll feel the difference. Good luck 🤙
IDKY PPL HAVE to make a instructional video so godam hard.
Out of a few pro vidz & a few amateur. This instructional was get to it dear bones abc 123. 1+1 thank u so much
Glad it helped! Thank you for the kind words!
Hello
The hanger bellows=rubber for steering is cut and needs to be replaced❤
This tool you pump make vakuum or air pressure?????
Hi, how to fix a Toyota T100 2.7L clutch pedal has no pressure?
Will this same process work for my 97 Glanza starlet
Thanks man i kept pumping like hell, when i check nothing has happened yeeer my poor leg worked hard 😂😂😂😂😂
Glad you found this useful!
Hi there! Could you do this with a bleeder bottle with a check valve? Since it won’t let old fluid and air back into the system? Basically crack open the bleeder and pump the clutch a few time.
You could. Those "speed bleeders" have historically not been reliable for me so I do not use them
Great video friend, how do you do this on a fwd manual, i have a cobalt thank you
Same method. Clutch slave will just be in a different spot
I had issues engaging into 1st on original clutch, master and slave cylinder with 195k miles. Fluid was dark. Decided to replace slave and flush system. Everything worked great for 6 months and now back to original issue. Would it be air in the lines or possibly master cylinder bad without leaks? Also noticed car shifts fine when cold until warmed up
Tough call. But I would check the basics. Trans fluid level and condition, clutch pedal height and free play, ect.
@@CMAutohaus Rubber seals usually perish in any case. Unless your lucky lol. They can suck in air, and leak fluid. Since you've eliminated all the guess work. Chances are it could be your master cylinder. I hope it's easy to access without taking off many components to get to it.
If it works fine when cold then there definitely is an air bubble in the system. Hot air expands and behaves like a bigger bubble. Bleeding the system should do the trick.
Nice
Thanks!
Whenever I push on the clutch fork, pressure comes out from the master cylinder and spits brake fluid. Does anyone know why that may be?
easy I done it all the time
I guess you still need to top up the fluid and keep an eye on it so you don't let air in the system
Looks easy to do. My clutch pedal on my car feels really soft sometimes and I had the slave cylinder reaplced already and still get the soft pedal sometimes. Maybe I have air traped in the line?
Air trapped or a leak is likely
That or your clutch is going out
@@blakely552gaming7 ill definitely need a new clutch. Who knows how long the one in the car has been there. Thanks 👍
Thats the way bro bush style
1:25 super pause on that ayeo
hahahaha
Hello I'm still having problems with my clutch I don't why it gets hard like rock the pedal went I bleed the clutch. I'm already put new master, line, and sliver cilindro. I bleed everything and the pedal gets hard like rock . I don't know what I am doing rung thanks. For the help
Something is wrong mechanically. Either sticky/binding clutch linkage or clutch parts inside the bellhousing. Ive seen a friction disc installed backwards do this before.
Hello mate my clutch slave gave out other day just replaced it but it gets hard somewhat but stay to the floor have to pull it up by hand do you have a clue on what it could be
You typically replace the entire system if one part fails (slave, master, softline) otherwise everything else gets contaminated. There may be a problem with another part or you could try different bleeding procedures (some cars need to be 2 man bleed because of a one way check valve)
Just to be clear, this is supposed to be done AFTER bleeding the master cylinder by holding the clutch down?
or from what I understand from the video, this is an alternative, or even better method, than having someone with you to press the clutch?
Just to clarify if you bleed the slave cylinder as shown in the video, you don't need to press down on the clutch pedal at all? Also how are you making sure the reservoir isn't running low while you're bleeding the slave cylinder? Thanks in advance
I typically vacuum bleed, then bleed the slave last. No need to press the clutch pedal if bleeding the slave or vacuum bleeding. Yes you need to top off fluid as needed. Our shop specializes in the AE86 chassis, so I know by experience if I fill the clutch master to MAX and bleed the slave alone, it will not run dry.
@@CMAutohaus I had to reverse flush one vehicle, damn. It was my lucky day.
@@CMAutohaus bro,this method,bleeding from slave cylinder,we don't need another person to press the clutch pedal right? It's one man job.
@@shazwanizhar8628 Yes. One man job to bleed the slave
@@CMAutohaus thanks brother
I just replaced my master and slave cylinder and flushed it and it’s been about a week and today I noticed it’s feels like it’s losing pressure and it’s like sticking in the middle, so I just do a flush again or is there another issue
May still have an issue like a leak. Check for leaks. If you can keep the slave compressed, rebleed, then follow the video again
Does this demonstrates with every manual vehicles?
yes
Thanks for this! I'm surprised nobody on CZcams has never mentioned to push down on the piston in the slave cylinder while bleeding! Although, instead of having the big bottle thingy majigir, can I simply just use a bottle with the hose submerged in brake fluid?
Yes you can just use a bottle. I went on a deep dive and found DSM have a TON of info on clutches/the hydraulic system
@@CMAutohaushey would bleeding and replacing the slave cylinder stop a clutch pedal dropping to the floor???!!
yes @@exoticexperiments3008
I just installed a new slave cylinder on my 86 but it isn’t doing anything at all when I press the clutch. Do I just need to bleed everything or could that be something else?
I'd try bleeding everything first. If that doesnt work, you may have a restriction.
@@CMAutohaus will give it a try, thank you!
@@CMAutohaus bleeding everything worked perfectly, thanks again for your help!
2000 Celica here. If the fluid is dark and my clutch is sticking to the floor (I can pull it back up by hand easily) should I bleed the brakes as well or will this do the job? I did notice the brakes making a slight wooshing noise when I press the pedal. I think my initial problem cause was that the brake fluid level was way below the minimum line on the reservoir. Previous to this my clutch would not come back up from the floor, but someone else did mange to fix that for me before putting more fluid in the reservoir.
Did you get your answer about bleeding brakes aswell? Im stuck on that and need an aswer
@@nodrug1667 Well, I thought I had. The shop told me that no fluid wasn't getting to the brakes when they tried them. So they bled out the fluid and put new fluid in. That worked for a few weeks but literally just yesterday they froze up again. It was a really hot day yesterday too, 94F. Could just be a bunch of garbage in the lines that got kicked up and it needs another flush.
Can I ask where to buy the pump and hose and fittings you are using PLEASE?!!!
Mity Vac pump with brake bleeding attachments. Amazon and ebay are easy places to look.
You can get the hand pump too at harbor freight for 40 dollars it’s small compared to the huge tank he has in the video.
can i do this to my 1984 toyota celica. thought you had to have someone push the clutch
If you have a vacuum evacuator like in the video you do NOT need another person
Hi I need help, I want to get my clutch working but when I try and pump the clutch, the boot on the slave cylinder starts leaking and leaks all of the fluid in the reservoir. What can I do? thanks
The slave cylinder need to be replaced first
Would this be the same process for any manual transmission vehicle
Yes works with almost all manual trans vehicles
Thanks i love you 🤣
Im trying that and its not working
If i wanted to bleed the brakes and clutch, which should i do first? Also i dont really have a clutch problem however when i shift into gear and let off the clutch, the pedal sticks for a second 2/3rds of the way up, should i be worried about this?
Bleeding clutch or brakes first, the order shouldnt matter unless they share a reservoir - in that case bleed brake first.
You should be worried about clutch pedal sticking. Some thing could be mechanically or hydraulically wrong.
That's what mine was doing before it went to the floor and stayed there. It turned out to be the clutch master cylinder. It seems that the clutch will fail to engage if the clutch master fails and will fail to disengage if the slave cylinder is bad... I'm dealing with the slave cylinder now which I have already replaced but I can't seem to get a clutch pedal now due to air in the system.
So wait do you use the clutch fork after someone helps you with pushing the pedal down or do you do this when you’re by yourself?
Neither…if u work by yourself, use a long object like long screw driver to push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor with the driver seat applied maximum depress then push the fork to the rod and open the bleeder valve (like he showed us). 😊
On my Nissan if you don't bleed the slave cylinder by itself you can never drive it again had the pump clutch as well though I had to do both
On our 01 Frontier, I did bench bleeding, then after doing this step I had to pump the clutch 20 to 40 times, leave the pedal at the floor, open and close the slave bleed screw. Repeat at least 5 more times before the pedal began to come off the floor. Only after all that the reservoir on the master cylinder started to empty. I used an Mity Vac to get the last air bubbles (hopefully) out of the slave. Used a Tball bat hold the pedal to the floor by sliding the seat forward. I saw on a video someone use a spray bottle trigger assembly in place of a Mity Vac. Probably not as much vacuum but it might be enough. On another video I saw someone use a Mity Vac to 'pull up' small stubborn bubbles by sucking at the hole at the bottom of the reservoir. I couldn't do that with the Mity Vac accessories on the Nissan but maybe you can do that with the spray bottle trigger assembly.
Hi, I tried to bleed my clutch on Chevy Captiva 2007 I actually got someone to pump the clutch and depress fully and opened the nipple for the new fluid to come out. I did this a couple of times and now I have no clutch at all. Any advise on how to get my clutch up again please?
Try to keep the slave fully compressed with a c-clamp. The have the assistant bleed this way. Once there is no more visible air, take the c-clamp off and bleed again.
@@CMAutohaus thanks alot my man
My 350z just started a thing where when the car is running and I press in the clutch it won’t allow me to put it in any gear. I’ve replace the slave cylinder and even the shifter. I was able to start it in second gear in order to move it into my carport but that’s the only time it’s moved in a week. Any idea what could be causing this problem?
We just did a FRS with a similar issue. The pressure plate failed and the clutch would not completely disengage.
@@CMAutohaus so you think that may be the issue?
@@treydarealestproductions7188 If your clutch hydraulic system is not leaking and is free of air, and all our clutch/shifter linkages are ok, I'd remove the trans to investigate the clutch itself
what did you find out?
Do you desconect the line from the master to the sleve or is on come on. Thanks primo
Keep the lines connected. I open and close the bleeder on the slave only.
There wouldn't any fluid going to slave is line disconnected, come on
The purpose of the pump is it to create a vacuum so when then bleeder is open it will help suck the fluid and trapped air in the system??
I want to know please!
Exactly correct.
@@CMAutohaus You don't need a vacuum to do this though right? Isn't gravity + flushing new fluid through enough?
@@OdsyMJ Correct. You dont need a vacuum to do this
If I understood this correctly you are creating a vacuum to pull the fluid and
any air bubbles through the system and out of through the bleeder?
Also can you apply air pressure to the master to push fluid through? If so does
the pedal need to be depressed? I have an internal slave that is showing signs of
leaking and I'm trying to refill the system with fluid with "stop-leak" seal conditioner.
Your understanding is correct. You can use a pressure bleeder to apply pressue to the master as well, pedal would not need to be depressed in this car.
I would NOT use stop leak in a hydraulic system as I can almost guarantee failure wuth the amount of pressure the system generates
@@CMAutohaus I appreciate your reply.
My slave was replaced once before approximately 40,000 miles ago and it was a very costly job. Just trying anything to prolong its life. I realize its bad again and needs to be replaced but as long as I have some disengagement.....
With two people is it necessary to push the slave cylinder by hand?
Yes, push it by hand in the end to bleed the slave cylinder itself
Does the bleeder valve have to be in a position where it’s facing down or does it not matter
Bleeder valve needs to always face up, as air wants to rise
@@CMAutohaus thank you also I have a friend who has an electric vacuum pump will that work too?
Hi I agree with ooceanbreeze16.
I hope you can answer my question, yesterday my clutch worked fine this morning when I went to start my car the clutch worked fine, however my pig of a ute pu ford courier 2x4 didn’t start no crank no noises, I renewed battery no start , was suggested I rock the pig I did and went inside half hour passes and it starts!!! Then this morning it not starting, a friend calls in he said he’d take a look , it didn’t start I think he had a look at starter motor couple other things , then a bit later I try starting and it did, I was happy ish so I went to drive car to mechanics and now the clutch is soft, not going into gear, no fluid leaks either now I’m very annoyed, what do u think has happened to clutch between this morning and the person going under car, what did the person touch adjust loosen to stop clutch working???
I use the ute 5 days wk to pick up the write off food from a major supermarket and I sort deliver to our church for distribution to anyone in need within the community.
I think the person has deliberately sabotaged the car so he has excuse come over to keep company with me,
Reading through other questions and responses it sounds like you have air in your lines. Bleeding them should fix it if that's the case- I wouldn't assume sabotage
Anyone know why the brake master cylinder reservoir doesn’t let out fluid into the master cylinder when I let out the hose nothing comes out
Put a C-Clamp and completely keep the slave cly compressed. Once the upper part of the system is bled, then take the C-clamp off and continue bleeding. See if that works
@@CMAutohaus my problem was my car has a dual chamber reservoir and the fill port was above the max line so no fluid was making it to the system once I found that I got fluid I’m
Will this work on a hilux or is the fork too stiff to push
Yes, will work
So is clutch pedal push in right now
No
@@CMAutohaus copy
Hi. What in the bottle that you pumping.
Vacuum pump. I am applying vacuum to suck "vacuum bleeding" the brake fluid out of the system
Thanks. Good video. Very helpful
is this for any hydraulic clutch? and also, can u gravity bleed the clutch?
Yes to both questions
@@CMAutohaus Okay mate, tnx for the help!
I tried bleeding my clutch but i didnt know that the slave had its reservoir. So i emptied out the clutch res by accident. I filled it up a bled it again. Now im wondering if that ruined the clutch master cyl?
I also got another question. I put my trans together. I can shift through all the gears when my car is off. But i cant shift while the cars on. If i put in first gear and try turning it on. It starts rolling forward. Its like my clutch isnt engaging. I already adjusted my clutch peddle too. What could be causing this?
Definitely possible you could have ruined the internal seals by running the system dry.
Sounds like clutch cannot completely disengage. Bad master/slave/air in the lines.
@@CMAutohaus im gonna have to replace the master
@@roosbinpancan2380 Its common practice to replace the master, slave, and soft line all at once to avoid cross contamination
@@CMAutohaus is the soft line the metal line?
@@roosbinpancan2380 Its the rubber line that connects to the slave
I drove my 1994 Chevy S10 for 28 years straight, daily driver over 1 million miles. Never touched the Clutch fluid.
It seems that the rubber boot is broken.
What’s the name of that bucket you were pumping into and can I find one at a regular auto store?
Its just a 5 gallon bucket of gear oil. I am an Amsoil dealer so I buy the 5 gal pail of 75w90 Amsoil severe gear. The pump part is called a bucket pump I think. Mine is OTC brand
I need to do this on my 370
Excellent way to preserve the performance and life of your drivetrain.
Unfortunately the slave cylinder is inaccessible so you need someone to pump the pedal
Thanks I will start flushing mine regularly with my brakes
Excellent choice!
The litle black dot is for keeping moisture out :)
Thanks!
Sometimes you have a car that sucks in air and so you have to bleed it every week I don't know how to fix it definitely a C5 corvette problem And also Nissan hardbodies
what u cant push it using your finger???
Yes you can push the slave back in just with your hand.
I've got a Toyota Yaris 1.5 VVTI 2003. I changed the clutch, and bolted back everything. I had a guy pump the clutch while I tried to see off any bubbles coming out through a transparent hose. It looked bubble free so I nipped up the valve on the slave cylinder. I started the car and tried to put it in first gear. The clutch would not disengage, and the gearbox crunched a lot. I am lost on this one. My next step is try using a pressurised top up bottle connected to the brake fluid reservoir under around 20 psi. I will try to crack the bleed valve and allow the fluid to drain out again. I am hoping that this works.
This has to be one of the worst cars that I've tried to bleed.
If there are no air bubbles, the system is bled. Id check something mechanical. Did you get the wrong clutch kit or TOB? If the friction disk backwards? Did you install a pilot bearing when you were not supposed to?
I thought the first year they made Yaris were 2007?
@@LoveLeeMonson No way, my friends dad had the echo (that's what they call the Yaris in Australia) in the 1990s.
Is that a vacuum? That your pumping on the ground?
Yes Mityvac fluid extractor
@@CMAutohaus can i just use a clear hose to a bottle ?
@@knoxtoy87 yes
Thanks, i will try this !
He's like Cluth fluid is right here. And I'm like every car is different so yeah 🤷♂️
I wish my little 06 ranger's slave was external. I get the wife to hold the pedal down. I also have to take the damn master out the firewall since it's pointing down. Silly design.
y
Press the clutch and hold?
Air and old fluid still gets trapped inside the slave cylinder and line.
@@CMAutohaus It was a yes or no question
@@ragnaroksangel Ah! Apologies. Yes, press and hold.
Yeah boys, and if you keep bleeding (or changing fluid) without controlling the fluid level in reservoir, you will be bleeding it for years :-D
Exactly
What's the kind of car?
AE86 Toyota Corolla GTS
@@CMAutohaus
Hey mate, great video very clear explanation. Thanks
One question though, recently replaced rear drum cylinder was badly seized, bled system, LSV,RL,RR,FL,FR have solid pedal and braking, but experiencing a bubble effect and noise from master if I push the break with a bit of force, more noticeable with engine running.
Any ideas
Can i be ur spinner boy 😮
I use this method years ago but now it doesn't work my car doesn't shift very good bleeding the slave makes it shift worse maybe it's the crappy Chinese pars that we have now?????
To the junk yard my 2200 bucks goes
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