How To Fix a Dead Clutch Pedal
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- čas přidán 17. 06. 2021
- My brother brought me his 2005 Honda Element. He said he had difficulty shifting it into gear. When I inspected it, I found the clutch pedal was on the floor, so he had no clutch at all. Further inspection revealed that the clutch master cylinder had failed.
In this video I show you, not only how to fix this issue, but also how to drive the vehicle just enough to get it to safety.
Thanks for watching!
#ETCGVideo #HondaElement #Clutch
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I have to confess I have not watched ETCG for a while but used to all the time, but, SO HAPPY to see him at 1.58 Million subs! I love seeing long-term CZcamsrs plugging away over years!
Thanks for watching!
On my mother , thank you sir for still making videos !! Just watched two different videos that were uploaded 10 whole a** years apart. And now my clutchs fixed 😂🤟🏼🙏🏼
As someone that has done this job on 07 accords.. My original broke the same way.. Blown out fastener. Replaced it with an autozone special that lasted 2 years.. Replaced again with the az special and failed again in 3 months.. Replaced again but with a genuine honda and all good again. That retainer U shaped clip is original by the way.
I drove a bread truck for years. I’ve driven a whole bread route with a broken clutch cable by parking in granny-1st & using the starter to get it moving. Most people don’t know you can do that…but most people can’t drive a manual!
The original Hybrid engine =)
I could change gear in my car with out pressing the clutch lol it’s just timing funny how we would drive when younger my mini had no fuel gauge so had to turn it off slammed the brakes to hear how much splash I could hear lol Or drive back home in the same gear lol
This is nearly word for word how my uncle taught me to limp a dead clutch/clutch cable many years ago. :)) Neat.
1:00 That is a great trick for anyone that drives a manual. When my clutch gave out on me in traffic, I was able put the car in gear with the engine off. This allowed me to limp the car off the main road into a nearby parking space and wait for a tow truck. Totally saved me from causing a huge traffic nightmare.
My clutch died on me tonight and I have been nonstop searching the Internet for help on what's wrong and how to fix it. While diagnosing it, I noticed that a part had a screw fail but I didn't know what the part was or if it was why my clutch failed. This video has almost the exact same engine and failure which made it so easy to understand. You are a life saver. Thank you.
This reminds me of a night in Stetsonville, WI. Going to the in-laws middle of the night with the wife and kids and the hydraulic clutch won't work in my 1991 Pathfinder. Did the same thing to get us there and sure enough the slave cylinder was leaking like a sieve. That was under warranty. Got it replaced and it lasted until the truck was crushed at 260,000 miles
Great video.
9:32 "I recommend cleaning it up before insertion. It should go in alot easier" - ETCG, 2021
All jokes aside, great video!
I was wondering who else would catch that
I'm a gentleman... I clean up before AND after insertion! If I have a spill on the fender I always clean up after myself too.
Gotta keep the 5th grade boys entertained!
Very interesting to watch and learn but not attempt myself without pro guidance next to me. Hats off to you Eric, brave soul that you are!!!
I'm glad you didn't resolve the problem and left it in. It was great to see you calmly explain next steps at a point where I'd be hucking auto parts across my lawn in frustration.
Hi Eric. Had an 02 CRV stick. Replaced the master. Struggled to get the line completely purged then ran across in small print in the official Honda service manual something like:"if clutch is still out of adjustment after bleeding lines and adjusting master cylinder, place a wood block behind the slave cylinder to prevent movement then bleed the lines" . Shazzam - that was the problem: a tiny bubble of air would get downstream from the bleeder valve if the cylinder wasn't blocked when bleeding.
Great video, awesome production value! My clutch has a squeak, lubed everything, never knew about anti-sieze on the ball of the slave cylinder, gonna attack that now, thanks Eric!!!!!!
Thanks for sharing Eric. Stay safe and well Artie 😊🙏
I always enjoy your videos Eric, just to learn a little bit more. A guy can never know too much! Cheers, and Thank you !
Had a new clutch put in… changed the master and slave a month later.. since then I can’t get into first Gear or R from a stop.. if I rev the car while pressuring for 1st gear it will fall in.. or if I hold the pedal for 5-6 seconds it will fall into gear… I’m convinced it’s air in the system being introduced somehow.. but I’ve tried bleeding 101 different ways.. always seem to have air in the system.. never let the master empty.. garage wants a new clutch… I’m convinced it’s air… thoughts?
Wow didn't know the starter was powerful enough to start the engine in gear on the ground! Definitely useful. I damaged my strap when I used another car to tow the defective car even over a very short distance previously.
only tech anyone needs to watch ! thanks for simple yet correct way to fix automobile failures!
Thanks Eric!, You just gave me the clue (at the end of the video)as to why I have an intermittent pedal problem, replaced the slave recently, the master a couple years ago. I know that at least one of the clutch springs is broken because of a knock during quick acceleration or gas on, gas off. thanks for the tip! getting a heavy duty clutch installed asap.
I learned to drive stick without a clutch back in my old VW bug days. A vital skill.
Had a clutch cable goes on my '82 Subaru. Downtown. Learned real fast how to start in first gear. Clutchless shifting was pretty easy and I was doing it prior to the failure anyways.
A good skill to have if driving older vehicles...
Cheers,
Back long ago Volkswagen had an automatic stick shift you can shift it but you didn't need a clutch I remember that as well My first learn to drive that way was in a wagon of Volkswagen wagon
@@mikedurnell yes the stick o matic. Friend had one. Kinda cool.
Most Americans learned to drive without a clutch, as the majority drive automatic cars.
You’ll be buying a new clutch long before me.
Great video! After driving stick for so long, idk why it took me so long to remember to turn it off before shifting after my pedal did the same. Thanks for the help
Cheers and happy new year.
I'm about to try this on my 97 EK hatch. Symptoms look the same. Barely made it home!
Hi Eric, I noticed the remaining screw type is different than what's comes on the new one.... you are the BEST ..... Thank you
Can’t wait to see your next video
This is wonderfully clear and well explained.
I bled the clutch hydraulics in my '05 Element using the gravity-flow method. Worked great. Also, IMHO, the bare wire ground cable is to enhance flexibility of the wire in that area due to normal movement of the engine/transmission. Without such modification, the wire may break prematurely at the lug you just installed. New Honda ground cables are still sold thus way.
Hi Eric! I use a smaller version of one of those fluid extractors daily on Harleys and after i suck as much of the air out as it can, i release the vacuum from the tool line and then do another couple of old school bleedings. The tool doesn't suck all the air out all the time but is perfect to prime the hole system or to replace the fluid much faster.
I think this was a fantastic video! I can't perform my own repairs anymore however, i love learning and I'm from the 60's. I've never had a hydraulic clutch so for me this video was very educational!
This happened to me today on a road trip long distance. I forgot to check the clutch master cylinder fluid. It was empty no clutch. Almost panic. I filled it up. Pumped the clutch pedal with the engine running. Clutch action came back.
She was Eric I haven't seen you on here in a long time Glad to have you back
As a DIYer I get vicarious satisfaction watching Eric use tools I'll never own but wish I did. So jealous!
This video just saved me a ton of time! Thank you sir!
I watch a few different vids on the same thing so I can learn more then one method cus some are better easier ways and this dude covers everything 👌I appreciate your knowledge 💯
Last summer my clutch cylinder went out on a trail at the bottom of a hill 3hr from home. That was a fun few days having to revmatch to shift.
Very Nice fluid extractor Eric @EricTheCarGuy
Had that problem many times with my RSX type s. Actually had one fail while bleeding it at the triangle diaphram piece. Switched to the civic EM1 clutch master (Oem) and never had that issue again. The em1 doesn't have that stupid triangle piece.
Helpful information, thank you for sharing sir !
Hey Eric! Love the vids!
Thanks for another video tips sir Eric, this video are very useful information.👍
Genuinely, thank you Eric for the tip on adjusting the clutch pedal. I will definitely check that when I get back into working on my Mazda B2000. Btw, the clutch master is really for a 1989 International S1700 dump truck and the slave is for a 1986 Toyota Supra. Did you ever think that would work? 😆 lol
Beautiful. Thanks. Gettin ready to do that
Hey thanks for the video. Definitely some good info there. I actually had the spring come off of mine just as you had suspected here.
Great video mister Eric.
Always helpful , always learn somethin. Muchas gracias
I really like the video, I’m automobile student 💚
my 1980 Celica clutch used to stick... had to take the gear box apart twice to find the problem... in the end figured out the clutch plate the shop sold me was from a toyota corona, which is identical in all respects except the celica one has tiny grooves in it to release air locks. Replaced with the proper one, all came good...
I had a similar problem with the clutch not disengaging. The shop I originally used to replace the clutch used a jobber throw of bearing and clutch and pressure plate of which the throw off bearing was a few mm's thinner than the British Leyland model, Cost $800 parts and labor and that was a lotta molla back then in the 70's. I removed that clutch 3 times myself after that ( MGB complete engine and gearbox out of car to do the clutch) and bought all new parts from Leyland to figure out what the problem was. After using all Leyland parts it worked just fine from there on.
Thank you, Etcg.
Very clean, I love my element 07 lx 5 speed I put 20mm hub spacers on it and 235 70`s on it. Looks great. The tires are flush with the fender
You saved me a tow bill with that lil trick, thank you🎉
i've got one of the like, 1.5L fluid extractors. truly, it simplifies one person fluid changing with bleeder valves. hook it up, loosen valve, gooooo. even for home gamers, these pneumatic fluid extractor/bleeders are just so handy.
Good video Eric @EricTheCarGuy
Glad your in your element ⛅great tip as usual 🤷♂️🤔
“Caution, very small writing..”
Ha!!! Love it!
Merci infiniment Eric,vraiment merveilleux -belle annee 2023.
Had this happen to me a few years ago. Did the same thing. Drove for a km to a workshop. Don't ever want that experience again. Didn't have the tools or the courage or knowledge to fix it myself.
Great job
Thanks eric for the new videos.
Thanks for the comment.
Next time, ETCG gives us some barely legal clutch action! I am SOOOO buying that bleeder!
We know where you can find it ;)
IF it was a broken clutch disc torsion damper spring when you selected 1st or REV with the wheels on the ground that metal to metal contact makes noise. Screeching, rubbing and even a ticking sound. When you use vacuum to bleed to make it more effective wrap the threads of the bleed screw with Teflon tape, several turns. But no tape on the taper seat. The tape just creates a much better seal rather than air being pulled past the threads bypassing it's job. MC push rod adjustment is a critical part of setting these up. You want the piston seal just behind the port that feeds it fluid. If it's in front then it holds pressure and fluid cannot freely flow back and forth from MC to reservoir. Also the adjustment must allow the clutch pedal UP bump stop to be the pedal stop not the pushrod/piston/retaining clip of the MC. One easy way to check if the port is closed, remove reservoir cap, compress the pushrod of the SC and watch for the fluid level to rise in the reservoir. Fluid comes up, good. Doesn't come up, pushrod is adj too long.
I used excedy steel lines and master/slave. It's been great!
They make great stuff.
+1 for those excedy parts. They’ve been great in my ep3
No petle
Will u have to move treans?
Thanks a lot. Learned alot.
Always great to see u man, gray hairs but rocking
Hey Eric, love your videos. Just to add my Chevy Sonic F17 gearbox pedal went to the floor. Initially I thought i lost hydraulic but it was the two sheet metal screws that held the pedal to the assembly sheared off. Luckily I placed a crescent wrench behind the pedal body and worked until I was able to fix it. Pain in the neck to repair.
WTF! Damn that’s some Bean counter’s doing right there!
Happy Friday!!!
Happy Friday!
Great video tyvm!
9:30 "I recommend cleaning it up before insertion, it should go in a lot easier"
That fluid extractor is kickass in a shop environment where you need to do that stuff alot and have shop air. There are cheap ($20-30) manual handheld ones on Amazon or at harbor freight that work just as well for quicker jobs and/or DIYers
Our fluid extractors are pretty awesome!
I replaced my slave, but I injected fluid in to its bleeder, had someone work the clutch pedal, until the reservoir was full.
I used a new 2 qt old fashioned oil can. No air issues.
good video, Honda products are friendly to the mechanics...
I still love the popping/cracking sound of a bilt being broken free but not completely breaking lol.
An Odessey with a clutch? No wonder it’s an “Oddity” thanks for posting. I had no idea a stick shift transmission was available for US purchase.
That is a element
There should be a spec on the clutch slave cylinder travel. You might check that you are getting full slave travel before going to the trouble of pulling the trans....
I'm pretty sure I'm getting full travel based on the feedback I'm getting from the clutch action. I've seen this before with Honda clutches, spring failure. I'll find out for sure when I take the transmission out. Thanks for the comment.
Dude I changed master and slave on my wife's 2005 Civic, and it's almost impossible to get all the air out of the line without removing the slave and line from the engine bay and hanging them up so all the air goes to the slave to bleed it. I spent 2 days with a vacuum assisted bleeder and it simply would not come out until I did this. Just hanging the slave up as high as possible, cracking the bleeder open, and applying some vacuum and the air literally came rushing out, reinstalled everything and I finally had a solid pedal. Just a heads up.
If they were aftermarket parts I'm not surprised. I have more issues bleeding aftermarket parts than OE parts.
Actually it was the way the line is ran, the parts are Exedy parts, and I have never had any problems with them before. The convoluted way they ran the clutch hardline from the factory makes it a royal bitch
Youre the best Eric.. learn new crap everytime
That was supposed to say gee whiz anyway glad to see you back on here
Thanks for that. However, I never left. You're just not getting notifications unfortunately. Me and the algorithm don't get along.
I have an issue with the actuators but my vw mk3 is very different. I can't seem to find videos that cover my car since it's very old but I take in all the tips and tricks as I can.
Check out my friend HumbleMechanic. czcams.com/users/HumbleMechanic
Eric, that’s funny you are worried with the DOT3 fluid not to be spilled on the paint cause it will “eat it” while covering the holes of the pump containing fluid with your fingers without gloves! (no criticism… I often do the same while bleeding my bike’s brakes 😊). I love your videos!
A lot of clutch slaves have the bleeder below the line. I've had some luck unbolting the slave, getting the bleeder above the line, and pushing the piston in manually with the bleeder open. Sometimes just cracking the bleeder and pushing the piston in will do the trick as well.
If you guys and gals need a quality fluid extractor, we have plenty of the one Eric uses, as well as two other sizes! #StayDirty
I do need one.
Cant work on it font kno what im doin on a 96 ford explore
Anytime I have tried bleeding a brake or clutch system with a fluid extractor I have found that it will pull air from the threads around the bleeder screw itself. This will make it impossible to evacuate all the air out of the system as it is picking up air from the least restrictive place. To correct this, I remove the bleeder screw completely and apply a heavy coating of thick grease to the threads and then thread it back in. the grease act as a temporary sealant which allows the suction tool to apply full suction to the system
That's a great tip. Thanks.
What about contamination from the grease?
@@mdarguschuse silicon paste instead
So when this video came out I opened it up but didn't watch it. Little did I know but the day after this video came out my slave cylinder would die on the parkway leaving me stuck on the shoulder (After floating gears down the highway for a few miles trying to get off to local roads).
I wound up changing it on the shoulder (Had the part on me as I was on the way to change it). I bled it well enough on my own that I was able to at least get off the highway.
Thank you Eric I only have one question for the most of the time you never had on gloves thank you for your wonderful videos I am from South Africa please do a fellow up video getting the Honda fixed I am from South Africa
Hello South Africa. My plan is to do the clutch and make a video of what I find. Thanks for the comment.
I had this issue on my Subaru a few years ago and I replaced the slave myself and it also wasn't the issue. Replacing that was relatively easy on a Subaru, but once I removed it, it was pretty obvious that the lever it pushed against that went into the transmission had no spring retention. I ended up having the clutch replaced which cost me $1,600 but I don't particularly know if I needed that to be done or what the actual issue was.
I’m having this same issue right now with my Subaru, the clutch fork has a lot of play and isn’t tight against the slave. Pulling the tranny out this weekend and hoping it’s just the bearing I need to fix or re-align it instead of replacing the clutch… wish me luck
You should try this on a civic there is even less access. The original Honda part failed the same way. The replacement lasted a week then did the same thing. We ended up replacing master, slave, and flex line.
That pin on the fitting looks like a construction staple @EricTheCarGuy
Thanks eric💯💯💯
You might also have too much air in the master cylinder. If you leave the vehicle tipped upward overnight the air bubbles should come to the breather valve.
I don't think that's the issue, especially after bleeding a second time. I'm almost positive there is an issue with the clutch that I hope to cover in a future video. Thanks for the comment.
"How to fix a dead ...." perfect intro while I'm making dinner.
I've had 3 clutch mc's fail in my Element within 3 years, all from NAPA. Makes me wonder if these things were made in England. lol.I wish it had a cable operated couch like my CR-X, a so much better design as its an easy fix when a cable lets fly , plus you can adjust the pedal height low, making it easier to shift in bumper to bumper traffic.
Helps to warm it up first!!!!
No b******* and straight to the point. This is what makes good clips......nice shop also
My '97 s10 5 speed had a little plastic connector/bearing that linked the clutch pedal to the master(slave?) and fell to the floor. took a while to diagnose it, but ultimately was a $2 fix.
Notification squad!!! FIRST!!
Had a Honda clutch, break a damper spring at about 146,000 miles. Still had over 70% of the friction material on the disk.
Right, I was wondering.
I like to push the pedal a few times while flushing, to make sure I get all the air out of the system.
And I don't bother with that bleeder valve fitting, as they tend to not work very well with most vacuum bleeders. I prefer to use a silicon hose, as it fits much better, and I'm able to use the round end of the wrench.
yup ive done that direct gear start and i find its hard to shift into 2nd but easier to shift ro 3rd esp if we need to get to about 5 km or more to my mechanic
Gotta do this to my 96 Tacoma as well as a clutch replacement. I have a small hand pumped extractor that I've used on brake jobs, but it's always been awkward to use. I might have to invest in one of those big ones. Thanks, Eric.
You can get cheap smaller ones on Amazon
We have three sizes! There are always cheap options out there, but there aren't any that are better :)
Eric one thing I hate with vacuum bleeding is all those air bubbles if you undo the bleeder too much!