I tried the Ezibleed but it was unsuccessful. So I removed the 2 bolts holding the slave cylinder on and opened the bleed ripple until fluid ran out. Now I have the best clutch ever.
Many thanks for this, it's not a method I have ever tried great to see it worked for you. I do find often the MGB clutch can be hard to bleed, I have found that leaving it overnight in the past has helped if they are being difficult.
For a home mechanic working alone I would say it's invaluable for these jobs, it's possibly even quicker than having someone in the car especially if you have to stop and refill the fluid.
Wanted to say thanks as having watched this yesterday, I bled my clutch from empty today using this method with the EeziBleed kit and following the recommendation to push the piston home, I got a firm pedal straight off with none of the aggro experienced in the past with the traditional method of bleeding. Also pleased to note my slave has the circular boss.
My Ezibleed arrived and I have a leak either form the slave or the hose. I'll be checking tomorrow and then ordrering relevent bits and then time to bleed! This video and your channel will be my MG Bible!
Just bought a 1972 mg bgt yesterday, low and behold went in it tonight, no gears, looked underneath soaking wet with dot 4. Just ordered slave cylinder and pipe will do the job over the weekend. Its the old lockheed master cylinder, a bit rusty on the outside but still doing its job. With this video and tips it will be a breeze ,( famous last words). Thanks for the tutorial video, looking forward to watching the rest.
Great Video David. I really like the way present. Really good explanation of the process, tips and tricks without all the hype and BS. Keep them coming. This why yours is one of the few channels that I subscribe to - Your my go to guy!!🙂👍
Many thanks for your kind message, I do prefer to keep things concise, I find it annoying in some videos where there is too much speaking and not enough action!
Another informative video thankyou David! I'll be carrying out a clutch clutch in the next few days following your instructions once again. Cheers Aaron G
@@davidrussellwilks Gday David, clutch flush went extremely well, very clean so good result. I carried out a compression test (exactly same compression all cylinders) and tested the dynamo (mines a 65) and runs strong (over 14.6v @ 1000 RPM). A suggestion for new video/s is what items on the car MGB owners can test, why they should, how and frequency as preventative maintenance.....just suggestions. Cheers
Did it today, 12mm spanner worked on the bleed nipple. I bought a fluid tester per your previous CZcams suggestion and detected greater than 4% water content reading. Surprising was the amount of clutch fluid I needed to bleed before noticable drop in the clutch reservoir....almost filled the jam jar. Looking forward to the next informative CZcams production!
That was a great clear vid,I appreciate your extra info,like maybe why it doesn’t go into gear…,my triumph spitfire 1500 has been having trouble going into 3 rd sometimes lately,I will check this out and hopefully get it sorted. Many thanks from nz.
Thanks for your message, there are a couple of things you can check. How easily does it shift into third when stationary with the engine running? A clutch issue would mean problems when both moving and stationary, if it only happens when the car is moving it may be the synchro on third.
Thank you David. I like how methodical you are and how well you explain things. I don't know if you remember but you had asked me awhile back if I had figured out the problem I was having bleeding the rear brakes. As it turns out, I had a crushed brake line. I had done a visual inspection of the brake lines but, with only a couple of inches between my eyes and the bottom of the car, I missed it. I ended up taking it to a shop at the beginning of the virus outbreak. The mechanics were all sent home shortly after I dropped it off. They recently came back to work and I hope to get my MGB back soon.
Delighted to hear you found the source of the problem Trent, was it the copper line that was crushed or the rubber hose that had failed? Hope you get the car back soon
Good film work (nice clean car:) ) and clear instruction. I'm now happy to go ahead and replace my slave cylinder. Also thanks for the info on the important reason for the "button" on the back of the new cylinder.
To put clip back on, I use channel lock pliers opened up, to grab the edge of ring, and edge of slave, then a quick squeeze, pops it on. That way won’t puncture the rubber seal.
Great video David, that's interesting to know about the original slave cylinder having a dimple on it compared with the aftermarket not having it. If I get any issues with mine, I know I'll be spending the extra cash on an original type. What's the expression, fit cheap fit twice
It's something I picked up from the John Twist video. I bought the aftermarket slave as I needed one urgently; in fairness it seemed to work fine but I went back to the original AP one as soon as they came back into stock.
Great video and always well done. I am curious if bleeding the clutch without an air system to push the fluid would be the same procedure as bleeding brakes? I noticed a reply to another subscriber that just pressing the clutch to push the fluid will work, but do I close off the bleeder screw while having someone press the clutch and I open the bleeder while they hold down the pedal? Thanks for all your videos. Kel
If you have someone to help you it should be no problem to bleed the clutch slave in the conventional way, open the nipple as the pedal is pressed and then closed before the pedal is released. You can use the same technique as shown in the video to burp the system. One tip I have found in the past if the system is being difficult is to leave it overnight and it does seem to expel the air itself sometimes.
Thanks again for this David, you're my go to resource for everything MGB related. Quick question... what heater unit are you using? I've not seen it before.
Many thanks for your message Richard, delighted you are finding the videos useful. The aluminium box where the heater should be is a catch can, they are mandatory for racing the UK to collect the vapour from the crankcase and rocker cover.
Hi David. Love your videos. Very detailed and very well explained. Question: Do you have a video on doing this with two people vs the EZ-bleed System? Learning a lot from your videos. Cheers - KC
Thanks for your message Kevin, I don't have a video covering this. Carrying out the work with two is just as easy, have one in the car pressing the pedal down and one opening the bleed valve. Open the bleed valve as the pedal is pressed down and keep pumping the pedal to push fluid through. Once you are happy keep the pedal pressed down and close the valve.
Hi David, your video is excellent and very detail for beginner. I have a question using the Eezibleed system. Does it not introduce air into the cylinder when you open up the nipple as there is a air in the pipe between the Eezibleed bottle and the cylinder. If it does not introduce air into the clutch system, where does the air go? Hopefully you understand my question?
Thanks for your message Philip, the air inlet for the Eezibleed is at the top, but the outlet for the fluid is at the bottom of the bottle. This means that only fluid is pushed out (until the fluid runs out). You may have a small amount of air already in the Eezibleed but this would be held in the master cylinder above the fluid already in there. Hopefully this explains it.
Hello David, Thank you for the video. You have a beautiful car. A couple of questions. What size spanner are you using on the bleed nipple and what detailing spray do you use? Thanks David
Thanks for your message David, from memory I think it's a 7/16 spanner. Under the car I just use WD40 to clean up, on the bodywork I use the AutoGlym rapid detailer; the trade version is called Fast Shine & Lube I but it in 5L cans, much more cost effective than the small bottles. I've stopped using water to wash this car, there are too many bare metal parts where the water can get trapped and then cause rust
Great as ever. Thanks. Can I ask : if you don't have a compressed air "thingy", is there another way to do this manually? From what I could tell, you filled the kit with new fluid, connected it to an air device, went under the car and opened the bleed valve which I ASSUME has the effect of drawing the new fluid from the bottle as the old pours out? Is that right? If so, then I do have one of those brake bleed kits (not used it yet) but I don't have an air device, so I winder if this is possible for me? b) is it preferable to use DOT4 brake fluid, or is there dedicated clutch fluid to use? c) what is the bottle to the left of the clutch cylinder? Is that the brake fluid bottle?
You won't need the air bleeder but you will need someone in the car to press the pedal for you and push the fluid through the system. Essentially the air kit pressurises the system (only around 15psi). when the bleed nipple is open the air pressure forces the fluid through the system. I think DOT4 is ideal for these cars, there's no need for an expensive racing type brake fluid and you don't dedicated clutch fluid for these cars. The clear bottle is the brake master cylinder, I went with the newer style clear reservoirs to make checking the levels very easy.
Hello David, Sorry to bother you again. My clutch system is empty due to a leaking clutch slave cylinder which I am going to replace and then bleed the system. However I was wondering whether I could bleed the system by drawing the clutch fluid through from the clutch master cylinder using a syringe via the clutch slave cylinder bleed nipple rather than pressurizing the clutch master cylinder? Any thoughts or reasons why this might not work? Regards David
I've never tried it that way. You'll need to make sure the seal for the syringe on the bleed nipple is good and you will need a decent capacity syringe, plus you'll need to make sure the master cylinder does not run dry. I think it might be easier just to bleed in the conventional way with someone pressing the peddle? A good tip is to burp the slave cylinder just to push out the last bit of air when you are finished
David thanks for the educational video on bleeding the MGB clutch. What would be your thoughts on a clutch that seems not to want to engage until the car has warmed up and driven down the road a couple of miles. Very difficult to get into both second and first gears until driven down the road.
Good Afternoon Derek, I'm wondering if the problem you describe might be related to the gearbox rather than the clutch. How is the car at selecting reverse when cold? I had a similar issue on my car and it turned out to be the gearbox synchro/baulk rings rather than the clutch. If you are able to get under the car and see the clutch fork travel are you able to measure what you have?
I can always get into reverse but today I tried pushing in the clutch pedal 2 or 3 times and just letting it fly back while out of gear. Seemed to work better today while driving around. Might be some build up that needs to be loosened up. Drove alright this morning. Going to work with my mechanic this winter and pull the entire engine and drive train Will be changing all the gaskets and will look at it then. Since my MGB is a very clean 1964 model which I just purchased in March I want to keep it in the best running shape possible Just found your first video very helpful so hope to view the remaining videos to get better educated Thanks for the Insight
Hi David and all MG lovers, my problem is the clutch that sometimes travel freely all the way to the floor. Fixed a new master cylinder (Lockheed) all were good until it was grounded for 2 years. Change a new set of MC kit and slave, system bled and has a solid peddle. No leaks anywhere. Moving the pedal up down several times in a short period of times results in the clutch pedal dropping down ever closer to the floor. It will reach a point where the pedal won't move enough to disengage the clutch. If I stop moving the peddle and wait for awhile the pedal comes all the way back up and the process repeat again. Please advise and help me guys. Thank you.
Thanks for your message, if you've not replaced the clutch hose yet it might be worthwhile. The internals of the hoses can break down and upset the flow and return
@@davidrussellwilks @David Russell-Wilks thanks for the prompt reply David. FIY I just blast air through the hose and there was no blockage.. but it never cross my mind of any internal deterioration that might happened. I'll fix a new hose and let you know the outcome. Thanks mate.
@@davidrussellwilks- Hi David, I have fixed a new hose as you suggested and bleed every air there was inside. And as like magic the dang clutch just came back to life. What worries me now is the carbon clutch bearing, it is hoovering very close to the clutch pressure plate. Is it normal? Or can I hook a small spring on the clutch bearing fork to make sure it stay clear of the clutch pressure plate? Any advices from you would be most invaluable? Thanks David. Like I say, you're just awesome.
Sorry for not getting back to you about this, I missed your message. The carbon bearing will wear out over time, it's just a case of checking that there is still plenty of the carbon material on it. The roller release bearings are a good alternative and are widely available now.
When I first built the car I used Dot 4 for the clutch and Dot 5.1 for the brakes, changing now would be difficult. I have heard stories about Dot 5 affecting the rubber seals in the MGB system, I have no first hand experience of this though. I do like a very firm brake pedal in the car, apparently the silicone fluid can feel spongey once it gets warm. Do you use Dot 5 in your car?
David is very careful to use anti-seize product to facilitate future removal of parts. He also is scrupulous about torquing parts to specifications. But I have read that the use of anti-seize products being a lubricant, reduces required torque requirements by up to 30% and torquing to spec can stretch bolts and/or ruin threads. Question: is it ok to use anti-seize AND all torque to indicated “official” torque settings?
This is an interesting question; I have always stuck with the recommended torque for any fittings. The anti seize should work as a thread lubricant when assembling the parts and most likely give a more accurate torque than tightening with dry fittings that may bind up. ARP for example do supply an assembly lube for their parts. The anti-seize does not work as a lubricant long term though, if you remove a fixing after 12 months you will find just a dry film on the threads. So far I've not had any parts fail when torqued but I would be interested to know if others have encountered this problem.
Thanks for your message, I have the Weber carb tuned on a rolling road and then don't touch it. I don't think a static tune is very easy with these carbs as you really need to see what the engine is doing at the upper end of the rev range.
I tried the Ezibleed but it was unsuccessful. So I removed the 2 bolts holding the slave cylinder on and opened the bleed ripple until fluid ran out. Now I have the best clutch ever.
Many thanks for this, it's not a method I have ever tried great to see it worked for you. I do find often the MGB clutch can be hard to bleed, I have found that leaving it overnight in the past has helped if they are being difficult.
Great video, helps me understand a lot regarding the slave clutch on MG Midget 1979 many thanks Riccardo from Italy
Outstanding video. I love my easy bleed unit. It makes bleeding the clutch and brakes an easy one man job.
For a home mechanic working alone I would say it's invaluable for these jobs, it's possibly even quicker than having someone in the car especially if you have to stop and refill the fluid.
Wanted to say thanks as having watched this yesterday, I bled my clutch from empty today using this method with the EeziBleed kit and following the recommendation to push the piston home, I got a firm pedal straight off with none of the aggro experienced in the past with the traditional method of bleeding. Also pleased to note my slave has the circular boss.
Thank you so much for your kind message Martin, delighted to hear that the technique worked well for you.
My Ezibleed arrived and I have a leak either form the slave or the hose. I'll be checking tomorrow and then ordrering relevent bits and then time to bleed! This video and your channel will be my MG Bible!
Many thanks for your kind message, hope all goes well with the repairs. The clutch flexi can be a pain to loosen.
Just bought a 1972 mg bgt yesterday, low and behold went in it tonight, no gears, looked underneath soaking wet with dot 4. Just ordered slave cylinder and pipe will do the job over the weekend. Its the old lockheed master cylinder, a bit rusty on the outside but still doing its job. With this video and tips it will be a breeze ,( famous last words). Thanks for the tutorial video, looking forward to watching the rest.
Many thanks Mike, I hope it all goes well!
I love how clean your car is underneath! Makes the job a lot more pleasant...
Yes, it certainly makes working a lot easier when dirt and rust aren't falling into your eyes!
Thanks for this video, David. I am a new subscriber and I’ll be bleeding my brakes and clutch with confidence now!
Well done, your videos seem to match exactly what I am doing at the time. You do a fantastic job. Thanks
Thanks Jim, delighted to hear you are finding them useful.
Great Video David. I really like the way present. Really good explanation of the process, tips and tricks without all the hype and BS. Keep them coming. This why yours is one of the few channels that I subscribe to - Your my go to guy!!🙂👍
Many thanks for your kind message, I do prefer to keep things concise, I find it annoying in some videos where there is too much speaking and not enough action!
Another informative video thankyou David! I'll be carrying out a clutch clutch in the next few days following your instructions once again. Cheers
Aaron G
Thanks for your message Aaron, hope all goes well with the clutch on your car.
@@davidrussellwilks Gday David, clutch flush went extremely well, very clean so good result. I carried out a compression test (exactly same compression all cylinders) and tested the dynamo (mines a 65) and runs strong (over 14.6v @ 1000 RPM). A suggestion for new video/s is what items on the car MGB owners can test, why they should, how and frequency as preventative maintenance.....just suggestions. Cheers
Did it today, 12mm spanner worked on the bleed nipple. I bought a fluid tester per your previous CZcams suggestion and detected greater than 4% water content reading. Surprising was the amount of clutch fluid I needed to bleed before noticable drop in the clutch reservoir....almost filled the jam jar. Looking forward to the next informative CZcams production!
That was a great clear vid,I appreciate your extra info,like maybe why it doesn’t go into gear…,my triumph spitfire 1500 has been having trouble going into 3 rd sometimes lately,I will check this out and hopefully get it sorted. Many thanks from nz.
Thanks for your message, there are a couple of things you can check. How easily does it shift into third when stationary with the engine running? A clutch issue would mean problems when both moving and stationary, if it only happens when the car is moving it may be the synchro on third.
Thank you David. I like how methodical you are and how well you explain things. I don't know if you remember but you had asked me awhile back if I had figured out the problem I was having bleeding the rear brakes. As it turns out, I had a crushed brake line. I had done a visual inspection of the brake lines but, with only a couple of inches between my eyes and the bottom of the car, I missed it. I ended up taking it to a shop at the beginning of the virus outbreak. The mechanics were all sent home shortly after I dropped it off. They recently came back to work and I hope to get my MGB back soon.
Delighted to hear you found the source of the problem Trent, was it the copper line that was crushed or the rubber hose that had failed? Hope you get the car back soon
David Russell-Wilks - It was the copper line. I’m hopeful that I’ll be driving it again soon. Thank you!
Great video with good information. Thanks David for posting it.
Many thanks! Glad you enjoyed it.
Good film work (nice clean car:) ) and clear instruction. I'm now happy to go ahead and replace my slave cylinder. Also thanks for the info on the important reason for the "button" on the back of the new cylinder.
Many thanks Dave, hope all goes well with the replacement!
Always an Outstanding video and presentation.
Thanks again!
To put clip back on, I use channel lock pliers opened up, to grab the edge of ring, and edge of slave, then a quick squeeze, pops it on. That way won’t puncture the rubber seal.
A proper video well done clear and concise ( as are all of your videos)
Many thanks John, glad you enjoyed it.
love your videos- since your b is a race car- then are there a video about what your engine is made up off? a video off a race your in?
Great video mate Thankyou , I now know what job I’m doing next 😁😎
Glad to help, hope it all goes well!
Great video David, that's interesting to know about the original slave cylinder having a dimple on it compared with the aftermarket not having it. If I get any issues with mine, I know I'll be spending the extra cash on an original type. What's the expression, fit cheap fit twice
It's something I picked up from the John Twist video. I bought the aftermarket slave as I needed one urgently; in fairness it seemed to work fine but I went back to the original AP one as soon as they came back into stock.
Ah yes, John Twist. Legend, what he don’t know about classic MGs ain’t worth knowing
Thanks! 🙏
Great video! I just wish the ez bleed had more fittings, wouldn't fit my brake master cap so i sent it back.
Many thanks David, that's annoying to hear about the cap not fitting.
Beck-Arnley Remans have the button on there.
great thanks
Good video
Many thanks!
I enjoy your videos and find them very helpful. Is it possible to do one about setting the engine valve gaps? Many thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for your message a tappet/valve setting video can be found here czcams.com/video/R9EmjDrsytQ/video.html skip to 34:50
Thanks. Very helpful.
Great video and always well done. I am curious if bleeding the clutch without an air system to push the fluid would be the same procedure as bleeding brakes? I noticed a reply to another subscriber that just pressing the clutch to push the fluid will work, but do I close off the bleeder screw while having someone press the clutch and I open the bleeder while they hold down the pedal?
Thanks for all your videos.
Kel
If you have someone to help you it should be no problem to bleed the clutch slave in the conventional way, open the nipple as the pedal is pressed and then closed before the pedal is released. You can use the same technique as shown in the video to burp the system. One tip I have found in the past if the system is being difficult is to leave it overnight and it does seem to expel the air itself sometimes.
@@davidrussellwilks thank you very much for your response. I appreciate your time.
Thanks again for this David, you're my go to resource for everything MGB related. Quick question... what heater unit are you using? I've not seen it before.
Many thanks for your message Richard, delighted you are finding the videos useful. The aluminium box where the heater should be is a catch can, they are mandatory for racing the UK to collect the vapour from the crankcase and rocker cover.
Hi David. Love your videos. Very detailed and very well explained. Question: Do you have a video on doing this with two people vs the EZ-bleed System? Learning a lot from your videos. Cheers - KC
Thanks for your message Kevin, I don't have a video covering this. Carrying out the work with two is just as easy, have one in the car pressing the pedal down and one opening the bleed valve. Open the bleed valve as the pedal is pressed down and keep pumping the pedal to push fluid through. Once you are happy keep the pedal pressed down and close the valve.
Thank you David. Good information. Keep producing awesome videos! Cheers - Kevin
Hi David, your video is excellent and very detail for beginner. I have a question using the Eezibleed system. Does it not introduce air into the cylinder when you open up the nipple as there is a air in the pipe between the Eezibleed bottle and the cylinder. If it does not introduce air into the clutch system, where does the air go? Hopefully you understand my question?
Thanks for your message Philip, the air inlet for the Eezibleed is at the top, but the outlet for the fluid is at the bottom of the bottle. This means that only fluid is pushed out (until the fluid runs out). You may have a small amount of air already in the Eezibleed but this would be held in the master cylinder above the fluid already in there. Hopefully this explains it.
Hello David, Thank you for the video. You have a beautiful car. A couple of questions. What size spanner are you using on the bleed nipple and what detailing spray do you use? Thanks David
Thanks for your message David, from memory I think it's a 7/16 spanner. Under the car I just use WD40 to clean up, on the bodywork I use the AutoGlym rapid detailer; the trade version is called Fast Shine & Lube I but it in 5L cans, much more cost effective than the small bottles. I've stopped using water to wash this car, there are too many bare metal parts where the water can get trapped and then cause rust
Concerned about the foot? Jbweld a washer there?
Hello David, Thanks for your previous reply. Could you let me know what size of syringe you use? Thank you. Regards David
Thanks for your message, a syringe between 50-100ml is ideal to drain the fluid or perform a top up.
@@davidrussellwilks Thank you
Great as ever. Thanks. Can I ask : if you don't have a compressed air "thingy", is there another way to do this manually? From what I could tell, you filled the kit with new fluid, connected it to an air device, went under the car and opened the bleed valve which I ASSUME has the effect of drawing the new fluid from the bottle as the old pours out? Is that right? If so, then I do have one of those brake bleed kits (not used it yet) but I don't have an air device, so I winder if this is possible for me? b) is it preferable to use DOT4 brake fluid, or is there dedicated clutch fluid to use? c) what is the bottle to the left of the clutch cylinder? Is that the brake fluid bottle?
You won't need the air bleeder but you will need someone in the car to press the pedal for you and push the fluid through the system. Essentially the air kit pressurises the system (only around 15psi). when the bleed nipple is open the air pressure forces the fluid through the system. I think DOT4 is ideal for these cars, there's no need for an expensive racing type brake fluid and you don't dedicated clutch fluid for these cars.
The clear bottle is the brake master cylinder, I went with the newer style clear reservoirs to make checking the levels very easy.
Hello David,
Sorry to bother you again.
My clutch system is empty due to a leaking clutch slave cylinder which I am going to replace and then bleed the system.
However I was wondering whether I could bleed the system by drawing the clutch fluid through from the clutch master cylinder using a syringe via the clutch slave cylinder bleed nipple rather than pressurizing the clutch master cylinder?
Any thoughts or reasons why this might not work?
Regards David
I've never tried it that way. You'll need to make sure the seal for the syringe on the bleed nipple is good and you will need a decent capacity syringe, plus you'll need to make sure the master cylinder does not run dry. I think it might be easier just to bleed in the conventional way with someone pressing the peddle? A good tip is to burp the slave cylinder just to push out the last bit of air when you are finished
@@davidrussellwilks Good morning David, I'll try and I'll let you know. Regards David
What is that heater box? So nice it has a fill on top, but doesn't look like mine (stock)
It's an oil catch tank, the car no longer has a heater.
David thanks for the educational video on bleeding the MGB clutch. What would be your thoughts on a clutch that seems not to want to engage until the car has warmed up and driven down the road a couple of miles. Very difficult to get into both second and first gears until driven down the road.
Good Afternoon Derek, I'm wondering if the problem you describe might be related to the gearbox rather than the clutch. How is the car at selecting reverse when cold? I had a similar issue on my car and it turned out to be the gearbox synchro/baulk rings rather than the clutch. If you are able to get under the car and see the clutch fork travel are you able to measure what you have?
I can always get into reverse but today I tried pushing in the clutch pedal 2 or 3 times and just letting it fly back while out of gear. Seemed to work better today while driving around. Might be some build up that needs to be loosened up. Drove alright this morning. Going to work with my mechanic this winter and pull the entire engine and drive train
Will be changing all the gaskets and will look at it then. Since my MGB is a very clean 1964 model which I just purchased in March I want to keep it in the best running shape possible
Just found your first video very helpful so hope to view the remaining videos to get better educated
Thanks for the Insight
Hi David and all MG lovers, my problem is the clutch that sometimes travel freely all the way to the floor. Fixed a new master cylinder (Lockheed) all were good until it was grounded for 2 years. Change a new set of MC kit and slave, system bled and has a solid peddle. No leaks anywhere.
Moving the pedal up down several times in a short period of times results in the clutch pedal dropping down ever closer to the floor. It will reach a point where the pedal won't move enough to disengage the clutch. If I stop moving the peddle and wait for awhile the pedal comes all the way back up and the process repeat again. Please advise and help me guys. Thank you.
Thanks for your message, if you've not replaced the clutch hose yet it might be worthwhile. The internals of the hoses can break down and upset the flow and return
@@davidrussellwilks @David Russell-Wilks thanks for the prompt reply David. FIY I just blast air through the hose and there was no blockage.. but it never cross my mind of any internal deterioration that might happened. I'll fix a new hose and let you know the outcome. Thanks mate.
@@davidrussellwilks- Hi David, I have fixed a new hose as you suggested and bleed every air there was inside. And as like magic the dang clutch just came back to life. What worries me now is the carbon clutch bearing, it is hoovering very close to the clutch pressure plate. Is it normal? Or can I hook a small spring on the clutch bearing fork to make sure it stay clear of the clutch pressure plate? Any advices from you would be most invaluable? Thanks David. Like I say, you're just awesome.
@@davidrussellwilks hi buddy, I'm taking my darling for a spin and will update you of the experience soon. Thanks mate 😘😘😘
Sorry for not getting back to you about this, I missed your message. The carbon bearing will wear out over time, it's just a case of checking that there is still plenty of the carbon material on it. The roller release bearings are a good alternative and are widely available now.
Hey don‘t U Uwe DOT 5 Fluid for brakes and clutch?
When I first built the car I used Dot 4 for the clutch and Dot 5.1 for the brakes, changing now would be difficult. I have heard stories about Dot 5 affecting the rubber seals in the MGB system, I have no first hand experience of this though. I do like a very firm brake pedal in the car, apparently the silicone fluid can feel spongey once it gets warm.
Do you use Dot 5 in your car?
David is very careful to use anti-seize product to facilitate future removal of parts. He also is scrupulous about torquing parts to specifications. But I have read that the use of anti-seize products being a lubricant, reduces required torque requirements by up to 30% and torquing to spec can stretch bolts and/or ruin threads.
Question: is it ok to use anti-seize AND all torque to indicated “official” torque settings?
This is an interesting question; I have always stuck with the recommended torque for any fittings. The anti seize should work as a thread lubricant when assembling the parts and most likely give a more accurate torque than tightening with dry fittings that may bind up. ARP for example do supply an assembly lube for their parts. The anti-seize does not work as a lubricant long term though, if you remove a fixing after 12 months you will find just a dry film on the threads. So far I've not had any parts fail when torqued but I would be interested to know if others have encountered this problem.
David Russell-Wilks A very helpful takeaway here is tha
t if the part is not to be removed after more than a year anti-seize is a good plan. After that it doesn’t really matter. Love your videos.
I have very little understanding of this URL, but it does go into some depth re anti-seize and its relationship to torque. FWIW!
www.manufacturing.net/home/article/13216826/understanding-the-true-value-of-antiseize
Do you have any videos on tuning your weber carb?
Thanks for your message, I have the Weber carb tuned on a rolling road and then don't touch it. I don't think a static tune is very easy with these carbs as you really need to see what the engine is doing at the upper end of the rev range.