Matchfit Microjig Dovetail Clamps [**Gifted/Ad] [video 499]
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- čas přidán 20. 08. 2024
- In this video I turn my Workshop MFT into a hybrid #Matchfit #MFT, and take a tour around the Matchfit Dovetail clamp system from #MicroJig. Enjoy!
** The Matchfit Dovetail clamp system from MicroJig was supplied for review by Wood Workers Workshop. I have not been paid to make this video or say nice things about the product. As a WWW Affiliate, I may earn from qualifying sales; use the offer code “10minuteworkshop” at checkout for a 5% discount off all MicroJig products from Wood Workers Workshop, discount code valid for 30 days.
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Featured/mentioned in this video:-
MicroJig Matchfit Dovetail clamp Pro kit - woodworkerswor...
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Festool lever clamp - amzn.to/2pOohLD (US: amzn.to/2pnFZIM)
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Festool Midi extractor - amzn.to/2tCIN3Q (US: amzn.to/2rKNIOx)
Festool PDC 18/4 - amzn.to/2s3J0eq (US: amzn.to/2tWUHEL)
Hultafors Talmeter tape measure - amzn.to/2pHwnbH (US: amzn.to/2oqLQc9)
Bessey DuoKlamp - amzn.to/3eDz1Ig (US: amzn.to/3w1s1dM)
Hultafors Talmeter tape measure - amzn.to/2pHwnbH (US: amzn.to/2oqLQc9)
Moldex 6810 in-ear defenders - amzn.to/2P2c5nP (US:amzn.to/2LgIsye)
Bahco 6” combi square - amzn.to/2oumhX4 (US: amzn.to/2ouSg9k)
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MFT, MFT top, Festool MFT, Festool MFT Table, woodwork, tracksaw, plungesaw, track saw, plunge saw, MFT Bench, router, Clamps, clamping - Jak na to + styl
The clamp trick for setting the router depth is genius!! I’ll be using that from now on!
I see all the comments bemoaning the fact its not metric. Dont worry a jot.
If you have a table saw the sleds you can build are limitless, drill press table brilliant, band saw etc. Forget the hardware it is the clamps that are so good.
I brought two clamps and their dovetail bit as the profile is unique. The rest of it I made in a couple of hours. I cut a few metres of dovetail keys from hardwood that I cut to whatever length I need and simple metric hardware is all you need to complete. Bolts washers nuts and some shop built knobs.
Guys just think about it, how much would it have cost to buy that much tee track and then the cross overs.? Put simply think of it as a substitute for tee track.
Completely understand somebody like Peter who's not a table saw guy might not sell his soul for it but simply the money I saved on buying tee track paid for the 6 clamps I now own. Take a look around youtube and you will see how many jigs and fixtures you can make cheaply with a router bit and two clamps.
Personally I think his top will be fine as all his clamping is pinch fit or locating stops for his rails.
I love jigs and I hate gimmicks. The clamps are brilliant, the hardware is an expensive and limited gimmick.
Sorry the green pads that you add to the clamps are also very very interesting. They allow you to clamp down and apply side pressure.
Just had a mini-revelation thanks to this video. I noticed you turning the router as you pushed it along the straight edge and the penny dropped that I dont need to keep the router in exactly the same rotation or on the straight edge because the bit is always the same distance from the curve of the base.. obvious now I think about it but thanks - a little unintentional lesson in this video too.
Big fan of the Matchfit dovetail clamps but not of the associated hardware - too expensive for what it is and limited availability/range. Problem solved with 3D printed components utilising either M4 or M6 bolts and threaded inserts. Best use so far was on an complex shape that needed to be template routed around the full perimeter without putting any visible fixation marks on it. Just put four dovetail grooves in the template. Use 2 clamps to route around 190 degrees, place 2 more clamps on the side you have just routed to keep the template in place before removing the first 2 clamps and finish off the routing. Much quicker and easier than hot glue or double sided tape, especially if you have several to do
Your table top looks like the underside of the space shuttle 😂
Great video as always and a superb tip on setting the router depth with a squeeze clamp!
Thanks! Designed to burn up on re-entry! 😂😂
Squeeze clamp for router height adjustment. Genius!
👌👍
Great video. Loving the answering all of the standard naysayer comments up front. Here in Maine, USA we have the "Dictionary of conversational Mainer" and that is defined as one word, the classic yeahwellwhatabout. :-) Well, I have to go because I have (another Maine word) shidadoo. Have a great week
Thank you! 👍
Not fitting into the track is a limit of the bend, not the dove tail profile. a tiny amount of filing and they will fit all tracks I filed off the edge in the bend ever so slightly with a Dremel it took just a few seconds and now they fit all my tracks I even sentt an email to the company saying they should do this at the factory. I just wish they made a ratcheting version too!
So if that’s all it takes, why didn’t microjig do it?? 🤷♂️
@@10MinuteWorkshop Totally! Hold it next to a rail clamp you will see that is exactly what Festool did
Yes, please make a jig for the little drill press. I have one and it rarely quite works how I would like it to with the bits and pieces I have. Thanks for asking.
FYI: The Matchfit clamps fit in Makita track. I have also seen people take a file to the clamps to make them fit in T-Track. I've also found the ability to take the clamp apart means you can use them on bench tops thicker than 18mm.
If you have some Veiko Ratchet Track Saw Guide Rail Clamp from Banggood, you can take them and the Microjig clamps apart and use the Ratchet System from the Veiko Clamps on the Microjig clamps.
Small file does get them into incra t track and festool rails.
@@gustavgans6013 - that's good to know, thanks
I've been using Microjig for years. One use you also might want to consider is a clamping jig for glue ups ... It is really, really useful for that.
I have a handful of those dovetail clamps and like them a lot. I'll be doing something similar with my MFT as well, just not as many tracks. I plan to add some bracing underneath to eliminate any potential for sag due to the routed tracks.
Thanks for the demo Peter!
Now you have the best of both worlds. The Matchfit system is great for beginners since no need to purchase metal rails. These clamps are designed to hold firm without tearing out the dovetail since the clamped material is holding it firmly in place from the top. Nifty idea.
All the gear and no idea ! 🤦🤦 😂😂😂 , Thanks for taking one for the team by finding out and letting us know mate 👍👍👍👍
Me: But, but, but, they might not be not CENTERED. Peter: "you'll have to excuse my lack of OCD." ROTFL!!! Thanks!!!
I've had the Matchfit clamps, jig parts and router bits for several years and I think they're awesome. Matchfit has a bunch of videos on CZcams about building jigs that are great. A few other CZcamsrs have made some really good videos too.
You really should use two routers like here to make the grooves so you get centered.
As for the markings on the it's, most US market router bits, jigs and parts were designed around Porter Cable routers. I have no idea if this is the case with the Matchfit bits but it certainly is with most others. Pretty much all router guide bushings are clones of the Porter Cable bushings, even Bosch did this.
Worth noting that the usual non-dovetail variants of those clamps (at least whatever brand I have down in the shop) ALSO work in dovetailled slots like that. The thin top section and wider base section fits well into a dovetail, though you might need to make another pass with the fence moved over a few mm to widen the slot. Won't be quite as robust as you won't get the same even force transfer to the slot walls, so might be more prone to breaking chunks off the top, but as long as you're clamping a flat bit of wood above them then the top of the clamp basically forces the workpiece to press down and reinforce the top of the dovetail slot against breaking off.
Thanks! The regular rail clamps of all types that I have won’t fit in the dovetail slot, but as you say, widening them a little may work. 👍
matchfit has been in my shop for several years now-----quite frankly, i like them better than the "mft" system for assy----
keep up the great vids-----rick
I added these dovetail tracks to my homegrown MFT style (regrettably 3/4") benchtop a few years ago and they are extremely useful. I find I use them more than the dogholes. Speaking of dogholes and the dovetail clamps, you can thread the microjig clamp pointed end up from underneath your benchtop and slide it through a dovetailed piece, for any number of uses that get the clamps out of the way. For example, I made dovetail tracks on the edges of small blocks of 2 x 4s and clamped them from underneath through the dogholes to create an elevated platform for jigsawing. Extremely stable especially with sandpaper glued to the tops of the 2 x 4s. I also added vertical side panels of dovetail tracks to the benchtop which allows vice-like clamping. As for stability I added aluminum angle bars underneath the top just in case.
All things considered a versatile and inexpensive addition.
PS: They fit Makita guide rails.
If you cut your slots with a 10 degree dovetail bit, the other clamps will work fine, though the Festool clamp has to be "finagled" in the first time.
Interesting idea Peter I look forward to see what you find out.
Nice Peter, appreciate the quality of your videos and love the talking to the camera comments . I found that placing T/track grooved on MFT did make it sag, specially in winter where I get more humidity… I cut a groove to add a metal track, has been flat for the last 2 years… * COVID PROJECT. Cheers!
Interesting, thanks! Yes, I’ll be monitoring the flatness closely! 👍
“ if it sags I will replace it” nearly spat my coffee out with that comment lol
I can see people grinding various T bolts to fit the dove tail slot and welding on the right profile onto a clamp!
Peter. You are a great teacher for me 😊.
Thank you so much for your efforts and honesty.
Good Video. I’ll be watching for your comments on the jigs usefulness. Thanks 👍
Interesting system that has lots of possibilities. I do think using aluminum t-slot channels and accessories would accomplish the same thing with the benefit of being able to use all the Festool & compatible clamps. I personally wouldn't use the dovetail system because of the proprietary nature of the clamps/accessories, not really future proof. Whereas a huge variety of metric t-slots and clamps will always be available.
While I agree, it's possible that a 20-year-old company closes up and you're stuck with not being able to buy new clamps it's unlikely and the savings over the years of not buying t-track really adds up so it would be easy to swap systems if need be. Before I would add very little t-track or only add it in places that I really needed it but since switching to this system I can route a new grove and it gives me the same functionality (more in fact) so I find myself adding dovetails on everything now.
Peter,brilliant content video again,I'll give this Matchfit set a go.Looks like a great box set cheers Peter 👍👍
I have been using matchfit for some time. There are so many applications that they are useful for. It is only limited by your imagination. People with a table saw will find them useful for all sorts of table saw jigs. I have grooves running down and across the face of my bench to use with matchfit. I no longer need a conventional bench vise because I can clamp almost anything in any position I choose. Good review! Thanks Peter.
I have a groove running down the front edge of my bench. I still find my quick release vise faster to setup, but I'll use the match fit clamp to help with a longer board.
Instant like for "I don't know, I'll find out"
I see so much potential for this layout now that I see that you have this grid on your table - I think it's a great idea Peter. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you!
You should not have to worry about the strength of the slots. As you apply pressure, you are pinching the sloped grooves between the workpiece and the clamp head. My slots are mostly routed in BCX plywood, and I can put a visible bend in the clamp bar without fear of a slot blowing out.
I make extensive use of these in my shop. My table saw outfeed table is grid routed for them. Most any holding fixture I make is routed for these - so much more versatile than toggle clamps.
I use them to hold stop blocks to fences and to hold my 8" tall resaw fence to the miniscule oem one on my Harvey bandsaw.
Hi I am building an outfeed table and will use mdf top. My old table has dog holes and I find dropping a clamp in is quicker and easier and the clamp can bring more pressure. How thick should the mdf be to support both systems?
A little hack..you can use a 9/16 14 degree dovetail bit and this slot will work with all brands of track saw clamps.
Good to know, thanks Mike!
I saw this system & liked the idea, in combination with T-Tracks & MFT dog holes. I've needed some clamps for the dogholes for a while & purchased some Bessey clamps.
Decided to try this system on a mobile workbench I have. Jut the grooves with a dovetail bit I had (two passes to widen the slot a little) and the Bessey clamps do the same job, as far as I can tell. I've not tried yet but I suspect I have plenty of bolts lying around that would fit the slots too, so I can make my own jigs.
I'm sure the Matchfit stuff is great but with a little ingenuity it's possible to replicate it at a fraction of the price!
Gorgeous close up panning shot of the dovetail in the birch ply at about 3:22 Peter - I expected to see Luke Skywalker fly in from the side in his X-Wing!! .. I foresee a lot of 3D printing going on for the little dovetail clamping elements, they'll be just a couple of minutes in CAD for those with the know-how.
Thanks! Yes, it was one of my firth thoughts for a 3D printing project - little dovetail-shaped lozenges with an M5/M6 thread in it. 👍👍
Makes a very versatile table Peter.👍👍
Thanks Peter, I've been thinking of using the Matchfit system.
Hi Peter. The weekend has started fine again with a cappuccino and your video. Yes, would love to see videos on jigs. Regards from the Netherlands 🇳🇱
Cheers Bill! 👍
But … but … but! 😄 I already have those for some years now 😄.
I find them quite useful for (makeshift) router and saw jigs. Downside that I came across is that when you use them in multiplex / plywood, there is a chance that you rip the layers apart. In solid wood though - all perfectly fine.
I saw a video on CZcams the other week on the match fit clamps, had a quick look and I don't think anybody has said. the screw on the bottom is so you can remove the clamp head and turn it around on the frame for working with small pieces near the edge so the dovetail part of the clamp does not stick out
I am kinda stunned at your dust collection. I still consider myself a woodworking newbie, and dust collection is something I don't have. I just blow out my garage every few days. When I was recently cutting my dovetails for my workbench, I was covered head to toe in MDF dust. I was amazed at how much dust it makes, even with a respirator and safety glasses on it was hard not to breathe it and have it get into my eyes. Of course, the dovetail tracks had to be cleaned out each time just to get the clamps in. Your routers having the dust extraction hook up makes a MASSIVE difference.
Makes a huge difference. 👍👍
You can set up a DIY dust collection system with a basic shop vac, a sealed bucket & a cheap e-bay/amazon cyclone. You just need to find a few old hoover hoses to extend the system for ease of use. There's some great tutorials on CZcams for inspiration.
I have a Stanley shop vac which has a plug on the front which automatically turns the vac on when you have a tool running. I have a eight plug socket plugged into the shop vac & all my large tools are plugged in to that (only one ever runs at any time!).
The shop vac hose attaches to the cyclone, which is attached to the bucket (via a hole cut in the lid) and the hose from the other end of the cyclone can either go to the tool you're using or to some kind of 'changer' where you can have multiple tools hooked up to a central point & some kind of mechanism to swap between tools. I have a system of DIY blast gates on one central hub, with recycled hoses running to all my big tools.
The good thing about a cyclone & bucket is that most of the dust drops into the bucket to be emptied periodically, rather than filling up the vac itself.
You can make such a system as simple or complex as you like but it's an economical way to get dust collection in a small shop (under £100). Tidier shop & healthier lungs :)
@@McMonkeyful Thank you for such a helpful response. The cost of dust collection has definitely been a deterrent to me. Esp given I am new and just trying to learn.
I am a little claustrophobic so wearing a respirator is challenging to me, but I do any way as I am also one who has occasional asthma. So that doesn't mix well with the dust, ESPECIALLY MDF dust. I appreciate the advice. I need to get a proper shop vac, I have a tiny one I kinda hate. That is why I have usually use the compressor to blow out the garage.
I could potentially get old vac hoses at the thrift store.
@@radicallyforjesus You're welcome. Another option for the dust in the air I've seen a lot from US CZcamsrs is a cheap box fan with a furnace filter attached. Quite efficient, despite the DIY nature of it. MDF dust in particular (pardon the pun) can be quite bad for you, so you're right to wear the mask.
We don't really have box fans in the UK, so I had to build my own version, as importing quadroupled the cost. The one I managed to put together cost only the price of a HEPA filter as I had an old floor fan motor & some MDF offcuts. I can see the air clear after a minute or two but still wear a dust mask for cutting MDF.
I always think that part of the fun is working out innovative ways to tackle issues like these with what we have to hand. CZcams is great for ideas. Sometimes I have no choice but to pay but if I can repurpose an item it really feels like I'm winning at life :)
This is exactly what I’ve been planning to make for my first quasi MFT style workbench. Can’t wait to hear what you have to say in a few months. Thank you for your efforts.
Thanks! 👍
Intersting video Peter, I have routed a couple of Dovetail Clamp slots in the side skirt of my work bench which also has a matrix of Dog Holes.
These are great for holding larger panel's vertically with the edge flush with the top for glue ups etc.
If all you need is an assembly table with a Dovetail slot matrix and worried about the strength of the remaining table, then the best idea is to make the double thickness top.
One fom birch ply and one from Fibracolour but this becomes too thick to get guide rail or microfit clamp through any dog holes if you put them in.
However with the cost of sheet goods these days, one thickness is probably enough to spend anyway 😁.
Great tip for setting the plunge depth with a squeeze clamp by the way, will be using that all the time now.
Have a great weekend.
For reinforcement of the top one could screw and glue 3/4" strips to clear the dog holes.
@@richardmccann4815 I did something similar to fit T-Track for my router fence. T-Track requires an even deeper slot than Dovetail slots 😁
Scott Walsh has a video where he builds a double ply workbench with dogholes. He solves the problem by hogging out huge chamfers on them underneath. Not sure how well it works, I think he needs a follow up video, but it is creative.
@@DavidLee-cw6ci Sounds like a good idea, will need to look up his video.
I love the idea of a multi-multi function table
That makes a lot of sense 🥹
Good tip with the squeeze clamp
I have two side by side MFTs and I have routed the match fit slots into them both.. Love it!
Pretty interesting system indeed, Peter! 😃
Thanks for the review! I'm definitely looking forward to see what you think about it about using it for a few days! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I’ve been using the Matchfit dovetail clamp and fixture systems for several years now. I’ve incorporated them into just about every surface and jig I use on the table saw, drill press, Ron Paulk style workbench that has 20 mm dog holes laid out either the UJK Technology guide system along with the 14 degree dovetail slots, router table, router table fence and right angle jig, and miter station.
Sounds good! 👍👌
fb.watch/ehuQlaH6BN/ good sampling of ideas from the 2021 Matchfit contest. The 2020 contest video also is good.
If it sags, I’ll replace it. 😂
I don’t know why but I had a wee chuckle at that. 😂👍
I have these. Like many things you have to buy into the ecosystem. I still think its all a bit pricey, but theyre my go to bench and jig clamps. For relief cuts, i use the table saw or track saw depending on the situation.
Im a big fan of matchfit but I'm not a fan of twist clamps. I've taken ratchet clamps and filed down the foot to match the dovetail profile and it works great for quick setup and take down.
Good review Peter, wow, those router bits cut so cleanly 👌👍
Thanks! Yes, very impressed with the bits. 👌👍
The tracks look so nice I'm less scared of routing them into my new pine workbench top... still a bit scared.. but less so.
Great video.Ive been using Google the Micro Jig system now for some time.Great tip about squeeze clamp, router setting.As always,can't wait for the next video.Yes for the drill press micro jig table.
It would be really terrible if someone made .stl files to 3D print those little dovetail runners to go with the knobs and put them on Thingyverse or Prusa's library for free. In 6mm as well as 6.35mm(1/4 inch) so you just epoxy the common bolts and nuts in. Just saying.
That was going to be my first 3D printing project! But now you’ve given away the plot… 🤷♂️😂
Sure, but there's a lot of people without access to a 3d printer or just want the convenience of buying the thing
It would be even more terrible if someone printed them and delivered them for free to your doorstep before your alarm clock rings and wakes you up from your sweetest dreams! 😂
My 3D printer is not that fast.
Heh Peter not sure about all this. All my Makita rail, track saw and clamps work wonderfully on my multiple MFT3 benches and like you as you know I designed and built them myself so Matchfit kit doesn’t really light my fire. What I have been using as a riser and potentially sacrificial surface is a yoga mat from Lidl which on a standard MFT3 top works elegantly and for the princely sum of £5.99 is a bargain and as well the new Dave Stanton rail clamp system I’m in heaven so sorry no sale this time but a brilliantly edited and professionally produced video,
Thanks David! Yes, that was what the video was about really, to explore the scope of the system. As I say in the vid I’m completely neutral on it, but will learn more as I use it and will post my findings in a few weeks/couple of months. 👍👍
Great setup. Interested to see how it works out for you. Thanks a million for sharing.
Been looking at this system for a good few years now, just never got round to buying it. When I first became aware of it it was import only from the states and the postage was ridicules, more than the item it's self. Much better pricing with the postage not being the big issue now it has UK stockists. May have to get a set in the near future.
I have been using the clamps for some time in a table-leg tapering jig, where it holds both the leg guide and the leg. Works well in 18 mm ply. I have also used it for a higher fence in the bandsaw, as shown by Peter.
The small green dovetaily bits come with a weird American thread, but I have found out that they will also take an M5 bolt or stud without re-tapping. I do not know if it will take the original bolts again afterwards, but I can not be bothered about that. In fact, I would not be amazed if the would, because the M5 does not need a lot of force to screw in.
I guess I would use the system mainly for temporary fixtures, where it will save a lot of T-trac. For a permanent setup I would use a T-trac and normal Festool or Bessey clamps.
Sierk
Just a quick +1 for a drill press table and fence video please Peter!
Always a hat teacher. 👍👍
Interesting and promising idea.
I’m sold on the system, very useful! Check out some other videos on this system.
Thanks; I've watched a fair few, and they're all using them to do things that I don't do! 🤷♂️
Nice job, I have them, and have not used them yet, very helpful video
I've found the Matchfit system great for trying out jigs as there is no expense or delay buying T track. On the downside, it is a pain finding UK suppliers of the Microjig kit.
Wood Workers Workshop are the folks to see. Links in description, discount code valid on all microjig products for another 27 days or so. 👍👍
But, but, but.... I'm sure there was a comedian who did a skit on the "What if..." scenario silliness. This looks like a great improvement to an MFT. The relief bit and dovetail bit made very clean cuts.
It does - very impressed with the quality of the bits. 👌👍
I missed the notification for this video. Interesting. Also interesting how good that MDF looks when it's being machined. Often the innards of MDF do not look good.
I’ve been interested in this system, and your video and opinions were excellent as usual. Hope you’ll do a quick follow up when you’ve formed more of an opinion. Would love to see that drill press table too if you get the chance.
😁 Great video as always Peter. Looks like a nice solution to those "aquard" clamping situations... that we all fall foul of. Thanks again, keep up the great content 😁👍
Thanks Frank! 👍
Hi Peter, banging video as always. I picked up a couple of these clamps when I was in Vegas in April (yep, tourist trip to Woodcraft!) They were a mere £25 for a pair over there. Importantly though, they do fit into Scheppach/Einhell/Aldi/Lidl guide rails 👍
Interesting, thanks! Yes, UK vs US pricing is always a bit of a choker! 🤷♂️👍
Hi Peter, great video as always.
I know you have done various "cheap vs Festool" videos. I wonder if it would be possible to do something that might be a bit more ambitious on how you would spend a total budget (e.g. £500) that would be the most effective use of the money (in your opinion) when starting from scratch.
I am guessing that it would be a real compromise. For example, it might be a cheap track saw and rails, a DIY MFT and portable bench (using your cheap saw) allowing you to work outside so negating the need for a shop vac and extraction, and plenty of budget set aside for clamps and other ancillaries like set squares, measures etc.
The chamfer on the top of that dovetail is very satisfying.
I wonder if getting some finish down in the grove might help prevent it from splitting.
that is a brilliant system maybe instead of holes hmm worth thinking about atb pete
You can make T-track the same way as this using a slot cutting bit, it would be interesting to compare the strength between that and the dovetail system since the strength is one of their claimed benefits.
That’s a video I have planned as well. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop very interested in that. I have lots of t track accessories, and like it for what it's good for, but don't always want to use it, as track cost adds up... If the t slot is as strong as the dovetail slot, or even reasonably close to it, I wouldn't see much reason to get the matchfit system. Use track when necessary, router for simple jigs etc, and have far more versatility...
But I suspect the dovetail will be significantly stronger than the routed t slot.
Love your work 👍
Very interesting and thank you for sharing what you do, Cheers !👏👍😀
I love the match fit system , the clamps and accessories aren't cheep ... But they are a absolute bargain compared to t track
How about compared to a routed t-slot?
I grabbed myself some of these a couple of months ago. They're a revelation (if a bit expensive) for jig making. Endless possibilities. Really useful for the drill press and table saw (tapering or cutting a straight edge with no jointer). Great plan, will allow you to place clamps anywhere along the length. I've only done mine in Medite 18mm MRMDF and had absolutely no issues at all. Great video as always Peter. I noticed you didn't use the depth gauge on the initial runs, I've found it invaluable vs trying to get the depth right by eye. It's like your loose tenon jug depth setting cutout in use.
Also noticed you did the smart thing and removed your strip where the TS blade goes, before cutting the grooves - not after like I managed to do. :)
Thanks! So serious question; are you doing anything with them that you couldn’t also do with a t-slot and regular rail clamps? I’m trying - and failing - to come up with scenarios where the dovetail section really helps. Thanks! 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop I suspect there's a lot of crossover but I use them a lot on the table saw where I don't really want metal near the blade. They work well when to attach my high, sacrificial table saw fence or as a tapering jig. For the drill press I have the groves a couple of inches apart going horizontally and vertially on the face of the table, that'd be a lot of fiddly t-track cutting to get the same.
Huge advantage when gluing stuff up where you can clamp where it's convenient and not have to move the whole project 4 inches over to the left so you can get a rail clamp though a dog hole. I have some aluminium corner jigs for 90 degree angles that I can just clamp pretty much anywhere with these, same issue with the dogholes never bing in the right place I suppose.
I've been making a set of jigs for angled joints (not 90) where the clamps ride in the groove pulling the faces at the correct angle - difficult to explaiin, but I'll try. I'm making some legs for a table, the angle is 5 degrees at the join of the two parts. I have a jig that surrounds the joint and clamps it all together. one part on the inside, one on the outside. Ok, you could do it with t-track, but if it's a one off I'm not sure how much time you'd have to spend recovering the t-track after doing it. I'll also need to use them support the legs while I cut the spline slots (it's an endgrain to endgrain joint) on the table saw - oh for a domino ;)
Another big advantage for me is being able to make a jig without thinking 'have I got any t-track' . It's just 2 minutes setup with the router bit and away you go.
A lot of for me is ongoing costs. I know you did some videos on cheap t-track, but this essentially gives me infinite t-track that's always "in stock" - there's not fixing the track required, no epoxy or screws - and no waiting, even if it is 5 minute epoxy.
That’s great info, and perfectly explained, thanks! My question was really about the dovetail tracks vs a t-slot cutter in a router. So a matchfit-style approach of routing the slots wherever you want them, but without the proprietary-ness of the dovetail cutters, clamps and fittings?
@@10MinuteWorkshop Sorry Peter. I think the main difference between the two is the strength of the resultant track - There's an idea for a video ;) and how much force you can put on ply or mdf and how the layers might separate as more force is applied on the t vs the dovetail .
Thanks Andy. Yes, it crossed my mind for a future little test video. Though given that I’m mostly clamping things down onto the bench top, I suspect there isn’t that much between them. Thanks again for your replies. Much appreciated. 👍👍
the microjig drill table clamp would be a good video please
Great review Peter.. I’ve been looking at mft clamps recently, however I haven’t thought of dovecut clamps.. certainly something I will try, especially in a cross grid , I like the relief bit first operation, cheers rob
Hi Peter
Got a set of them 2 years ago and cut dovetails in my bench and use them for clamping on bench top, only downside is dust build up in the dovetail grooves
Yes, that was a concern of mine too - we’ll see. Though it would be an issue for t-track or slots too. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop have the same mft top with the dovetails that you just made as well, made with hardwood plywood 18 months ago and still holding up well
Dust in the tracks and screws falling through the holes. If we could get a woodworker from 100 years back and transported them to the present we'd probably get some very quizzical looks.
Great job, we are looking forward to hearing your thoughts long term! The actual Festool MFT table was one of our first experiments with a Dovetail clamping grid. The dogs with the straight edge spacer is brilliant. I always used an indexing base. Keep up the good work.
Thanks! Great system - looking forwards to using it more! 🙌👍
Great, can you do the filing on the bend, so they fit saw tracks too?
@@PeterEller The width of the bend is determined by the steel deforming during the bend and forging of the head into the dovetail. Having that ground down in the factory would just add cost, and fitting the Festool track was never our goal.
We wanted a simple system that removes the need to buy expensive T-Track, and allows clamps and hardware to be used anywhere you can cut the dovetail groove.
@@Microjig I understand why they don't fit in the track but not your reason for not fixing it. intentionally limiting the functionality of your clamp is poor design
@@PeterEller I get your thoughts, but to rework the clamps to fit all the track profiles out there would ruin it as the Dovetail Clamp we designed and add cost that we do not need to add for our purpose.
Imperial threads in the UK/EU, about as much use as an ashtray on a motorbike 😜 Let's hope Boris and friends don't have their evil way and bring this system back to haunt us !
All I hope is that they allow Imperial to work alongside Metric - when imperial should die out naturally. The more I use Metric the easier it gets but there are times when imperial works better for me (a child of the sixties and never used metric until in my late 20's!).
@@wilf.tanser9961 lol, I'm a child of the 50's and thankfully stopped using imperial at primary school!
YESSSSS! I’ve really been looking forward to this. I was actually in a store looking at Bessey rail clamps and wondering if I could make a similar thing with those and a different shape hole.
Because the microjig stuff comes from the states it does seem crazy expensive here.
I honestly think the system looks fantastic though, especially if you have dodgy hands like I do and don’t want to keep losing stuff through dog holes.
Thanks! Yes, I do wonder about getting stuff stuck in the grooves though! 😂👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop having a magnet and shop vac will sort most things I’m sure 😊
@@WoodworkJourney Yes you can do a similar thing with the Bessey rail clamps: czcams.com/video/PFhF4oMCa9A/video.html
@@10MinuteWorkshop If you make the dovetail grooves a little bit wider, the Bessey rail clamps might fit as well.
Axminster sell a router bit for standard rail clamps and t bolts it’s pretty awesome I’ve used it loads 👍🏻
I think the top looks quite good with all the channels and holes in it.
Thanks, yes, we’ll see how it works. 👍👍
I just keep thinking, so much material has been removed from an 18mm top. Would like to see how this holds up over time.
Interesting video. Bet you wish you had your shop decked out like this when you were actually building your fitted cabinetry!
Thanks! And yes, always the way, right? 🤷♂️👍
Interesting video. I suspect you could make them fit the Festooltrack by grinding off a little at the shoulder. Also, with a slightly different slot shape/size couldn't you make slots that would fit your existing rail clamps?
I’m sure you could - same with altering the slots to take regular clamps - but why should you? That was the question I aimed to answer really, is the benefit of the overall system worth messing about with it all, or does it just make more sense to buy something else? 🤷♂️👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Understood Peter but if you already have quite a few rail clamps it would save you quite a lot to make a slot that would fit them and also you could pick up any rail clamp which would fit the slot. Mike
I’m with Michael on this one. Maybe not so much on grinding down clamps, but I’ve seen several videos on this system, and while I don’t doubt its effectiveness, I think that microjig took a universal concept of creating t-slots and made it proprietary. I’d rather use a t-slot cutter or t-track that would be compatible with all my existing rail clamps. I do suppose that the dovetails would hold better on MDF than a t-slot, but I typically use plywood for all of my work tops. I just like a solution that doesn’t pigeonhole you into buying only their stuff.
Given the dovetail profile I would be cautious to use these in a guide rail or T track…
Looks good. I do wonder if you needed so many? BTW: the Rail Hinge is ace.
Thanks! I think it’s a bit like dog holes - if you leave them out, you’ll always need one in exactly that spot! 🤷♂️👍
I am amazed that an old Festool guy like you would even consider these things if they didn't fit your Festool equipment. What happened to your gloriously expensive Festool Routers that you have at least two of if not more? I like the idea of tracks and holes however I am on my third year of my custom MFT top with just holes, and I am not sure this would really help anything. Instead I wonder if I need this many holes. Finally, I have switched primarily to metric in my shop because of the lathe work I do. The more metric I do, the less inclined I am to buy anything that is just imperial. Fortunately for us you always mention both measurements which I thank you for. Regards, and stay safe.
Thanks! I only have one half-inch Festool router - the bits supplied were half-inch shank - and it was much easier to use two routers with the same base to make the relief cuts & dovetail grooves. As I say, I’m completely neutral on the system, but I’ll give it a fair shake over the next few weeks. 🤷♂️👍
Another idea: If you want to use the clamps in the guide rail slot why not file away what's in the way? It is not that much of material that has to go.
You could, but why should you have to? If it's not that much material, why not make the clamps compatible by design? 🤷♂️
@@10MinuteWorkshop Totally agree. But if I had already bought them that's what I woul do. I don't see this a permanent fix looking at the manufacturer of course.
Like you it's good for drill stand top and jigs
Hi Peter,
Nice video!
I use a lot of 3d printed hardware and jigs for this system (with metric nuts).
Thanks Franz-Robert! That was going to be my first 3D printed project! 😬
@@10MinuteWorkshop ah, nice! If you ever need some design help let me know :)
I though these looked really good and very useful for me. Until I looked at the price. Discarded that idea straight away.
I’ve considered doing the same thing. It seems to me that once you rout the slots you no longer need to use the dog holes for clamping. If that’s the case, and the holes are only used for dogs, you could make the bench any thickness you want as long as you drill out any dog holes used for longer dogs. What do you think? Any reason to not double up (or more) on the thickness of the top?
Having had both for a couple of months, I’d say that having just the slots for clamping would drive me nuts in a bench like mine. But if you can live with them, then yes, having a thicker top would work if the holes were just for dogs. 👍
The length of your guide rail clamps 2:53 is not the problem it is there shape. The spigot could in theory be infinitely long, if it was made of metal coat hanger wire! you could get it to turn in the dog hole no problem.
What matters is the width of the spigot, which shortens the usable width of the dog hole.
The depth of the spigot which steepens the clamp in the dog hole.
The width and the curve at the "heel" of the clamp, so that it does not hit the otherside of the top of the dog hole and can rotate.
You can calculate the reduction in usable width reduction with pythagoras and then cut up some card and see if a cross section of the clamp will fit a 10 to 1 drawing.
The length of the spigot will only cause problems with things below the MFT.
It’s the length of the top F that’s the issue on the Makita rail clamps. All other rail clamps are slightly shorter there, so it’s like Makita have decided ‘well, we don’t make an MFT style bench, so it’s just a rail clamp…’ 🤷♂️
@@10MinuteWorkshop You are mistaken in this instance. Look at 2:53 on your video you have no problem inserting the spigot through the dog hole the problem is getting past the heel and turning it. Once the "toe" is through the dog hole the distance to the "heel" does not effect the turn. If the spigot was only about 40mm long it most likely would not be able to turn.
I have just purchased my first track saw after watching your excellent videos. A Erbauer, where the supplied rail clamps will not go through a dog hole.
It would not be good if if people bought a shorter spigot clamp on the assumption that they will be able to pass it through dog holes when it is the spigot cross section and the dimensions of the heel that matter.
That's a good tool but I'd prefer the anchoring part of the clamp to be made out of a medium-hard plastic instead of metal to prevent it from gradually taking the dovetail rut out of shape. Time will tell.
Too bad these do not use metric hardware. It is a massive PITA to find imperial hardware here, it's uncommon, more expensive, and even on sites that sell some there is usually very little choice outside of simple nuts and bolts. I'm pretty sure most woodworkers in Europe already have a whole bunch of M6 hardware because it's the perfect size for this type of application, there's no way I'm going to pay 100€+ for the set and have to get new hardware too :(
Your points resonate with me as well. Metric is a must on this side of the world
you can make your own dovetail pieces (hardwood or plastic) for the slot pieces. Shouldn’t be too hard, right?
@@jerryeykholt8218 Of course, I already do that, but then what's the point of buying into their system ? At the end of the day their system is not really useful for europeans if the hardware is going to be impossible to find and you just end up making your own
If you have a table saw the sleds you can build are limitless, drill press table brilliant, band saw etc. Forget the hardware it is the clamps that are so good.
I brought two clamps and their dovetail bit as the profile is unique. The rest of it I made in a couple of hours. I cut a few metres of dovetail keys from hardwood that I cut to whatever length I need and simple metric hardware is all you need to complete. Bolts washers nuts and some shop built.
Completely understand somebody like Peter who's not a table saw guy might not sell his soul for it buy simply the money I saved on buying tee track paid for the 6 clamps I now own. Take a look around youtube and you will see many things you can make cheaply with a router bit and two clamps.
Personally I think his neck will be fine as all his clamping is pinch fit or locating stops for his rails.
I love jigs and I hate gimmicks. The clamps are brilliant, the hardware is an expensive and limited gimmick.
Sorry the green pads that you add to the clamps are also very very interesting. They allow you to clamp down and apply side pressure.
@@Dickie2702 Using simple hardwood keys with regular metric hardware does sound awesome, thank you.