Quarq DFour/Dzero - Power Meter review after 6 years
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- čas přidán 20. 05. 2024
- tidd.ly/46Xjkot - Quarq PMs
tidd.ly/3K9Rtr2 - Shimano 5800 rings (cheapest i could find)
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Control tyre (GP5000) - tidd.ly/3GEF512
Powermeter (Assioma) - tidd.ly/3Z98OXb
Reference powermeter (quarq) - tidd.ly/3WJx9Bn
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105 Rim brake holy grail groupset bargain - tidd.ly/3BNlkSb - Věda a technologie
I have had mine for 4 years now, and it has been the most durable bike component I have ever owned. Currently running 12 speed with the Shimano R8100 chainring attached.
Can you post a photo of how the 5800 chainrings look with your dfour?
I've put loads of miles on Quarq PM's and they've remained solid, with zero problems. Best PM out there IMO.
My favorite product is my 2015 power2max Model S powermeter. 8 years in service and still going strong. Only problem I ever had was when the battery ran out on one my rides. Love it.
I bought a Quarq Dfour on Amazon (new) for 250€ a couple of years ago. I bought a SRAM Force crankset (DUB unfortunately) and sold the chainrings, replacing them with 105 R7000 ones (I run Shimano 11s). The total cost was 420€. Needless to say, I am going to keep it for a long long time 🙂
100% agree on the Quarq. Had mine on a SRAM Red crank, also for 6 years. Zero problems. And amazingly, battery lasts for well over 10k km.
I am totally with you. Have it so since the old gxp 11s Red Cranks and recently updated with the current Red AxS Cranks still great!
Thank you for sharing your experience on power meter. I hardly used on other power meters but I have been using force axs power meter from quarq which I assume it would be identical as what you have. accurate, no change of q factor, I can run any cleat system that I want to. I am looking at changing bike and groupset to shimano di2 12 speed which isnt with great power meter. Do you have any recommendation for shimano 12speed power meter?
I've got one of these on my allroad CX bike, the older 3 bolt version on a sram force pf30 crank. Done 5 years all over the US incl a 1 year stint in hawaii, and the only thing I've had to replace is the NDS sram crankarm & spindle because the anodizing on the PF30 spindle wore enough to cause creaking. PM has been flawless.
I had the same power meter for around 5-6 years and as you say flawless. GXP BB lasted the whole time as well on my Canyon endurace. I ended up recently selling the powermeter with the bike. Sad to see it go as it was great. Currently on Power2Max rotor cranks and have found them to be just as good.
Have the exact same PM but in the 30mm axle version and agree with everything in your video. How do the black 5800 rings look cosmetically on it since the spider has those silver tips to match 9000 rigs? I have had nightmares about the day I have to replace rings and not being able to find 9000 rings
Do you think it's possible for any of the pedal power meters to last this long? They must have a ring of strain gauges right around the axle, so there's a lot to fail!
I have that same crank, and the older Elsa 2 sided model. Same result. It's still going and I have moved it from bike to bike, currently lives on my cross bike which we all know, is basically a graveyard for anything. Solid products.
hey PT, great pointers. intrigued with 52/34, mostly because i’d been steered clear of the idea despite my desire. can you explain how to perfect the chain length to achieve this setup??
1. Medium or long cage mech
2. Size the chain in big to big with the derailleur in place so there is slight bit of spring travel left in the spring. Don't do the big/big method without the derailleur that will not work.
Then you know the chain wont snap! Avoid using small/small anyway, this is blocked by default when using di2.
Got the same PM, looks great and solid software.
Best cycling product I own (and perhaps ever made). I have one with 30K Miles + plus and it works like normal, and own a total of 4. All flawless. Each one reads within a few watts of my tacx neo.
I just bought it second hand as my first power meter--has been working flawlessly and was wondering if yall have any tips and tricks? I'm new-ish to cycling and definitely to power meters
I do think these are amazing. I've also had them operate flawlessly for a long time reliably. However I have killed 2 of them with dropped chains. The first one was a real crunch, but the second one was the softest touch, didn't even leave a mark on the inside, but the 3000W/0W random swing and insane changing offset numbers were evident. I've put it down to an unfortunate combo of BB shape lining up directly on stain gauges. 2 dropped chains in 5 years, 2 dead quarqs. Google it, it's a thing for some people
I don't understand why you rate these so highly if they brake after a dropped chain? This is very common with front derailleurs ...
this or Sigeyi/Xcadey?
To squeeze out a few more KS from the rings, perhaps rotate them 180 degrees periodically? The 4 arm spider prevents getting the ramps out of step with the lower torque portion of the pedal stroke either way. Nobody pedals with symmetrical power output.
GXP has been renamed D1-24 (they are still available) because they wanted customers to know that D1/D2/D1-24 dub products were interchangeable between that range so any road DUB spider would fit any of those cranks. They moved the 8 bolt interface 0.9mm between the BB30/GXP cranks and DUB/D1-24 so SRAM say you should not mix and match them together because it will move the chainline in or out depending on how you mixed them (new cranks/old spider vs old cranks/new spider). That said the SRAM chainline is 1.5 - 2mm further out than Shimano's and they seem to mix at match just fine.
Now then PT. Question for you. I was switching my gravel inner chain ring to a smaller size 32t with my same power meter and found the outer ring to rub with the mounting plate due to the smaller diameter. Looking at the same PM for SRAM though the spider is not completely circular like this. Soooo, I was thinking about cutting/grinding the spider down to match just the bolt pattern, creating clearance for the new chain ring. I think there is a level of risk here of course but with ample margin between the holes I believe it could be done. What say you?
FYI, I am on my third one in 3 years just riding gravel on it..
I couldn't say without looking at the spider! Which PM is it?
I had one for 2 years. It actually broke on the mounting point of the non drive side crankarm when I was accelerating
52/34. Thanks for the info.
Curious how the Rotor Aldhu 24mm crankset plus power meter has held up if you kept it in use.
Still using it! With sigeyi.
Can you elaborate on the issue with the DUB version? Does it mean the BB bearings need to be replaced more frequently? Curious as I recently purchased the Dfour DUB version of this.
Dynamic load rating of those thin section bearing bottom brackets (to fit in a pf86 shell) is about 1/3rd that of a Shimano BB with 24mm axle.
@@PeakTorqueSo using the DUB version with a Shimano BB avoids the problem?
Yeah those are nice. If you get a dub crank, you can still use the power meter because it has the 8 bolt pattern. Also Sram still makes gxp cranks in the AXS series but mainly for red. I have seen force ones but they are super rare
Is the 8 bolt pattern the same though? I didn't think it would fit...
@@PeakTorque yup, it fits! The only thing to watch out for is that older sram cranks has a larger radius arm at the spindle than AXS cranks. The carbon has a square-ish shoulder. So the quarq crank you have wouldn't fit on an AXS spider power meter but an AXS crank will fit on any older quarqs, AXS and sigeyi/xcadey power meters
What options do I have for the 5 bolt version to work with shimano 12 speed? No one seems to make 12 speed rings in 5x110 and the chainline is slightly different
chainline should not be a problem. i use an 11sp crank and there is plenty movemnet of the FD left. The chainline could be much smaller and it would still work. 11sp chainrings should work. The 12sp chain can be used with 11sp drivetrains so this should not be a problem.
Praxis make 5/110 rings that are 12 speed, but yeah the 11 speed rings work perfectly fine too
Thanks. Rotor and absolute black were adamant my chainrings and crank would be suboptimal and that I should use shimano chainrings or at least their new chainrings for 4 bolt shimano. I'll try it before I sell off my stuff.
You can buy the gxp crank arms btw bikeinn and some others sell them
You only strip down and clean once every 6 y?
These old GXP cranks are probably the best you can get for frames that don't fit proper sized bearings for 29mm+ axles. They're lighter and way more reliable than Shimano. Most likely stiffer, too. It's a shame they're getting harder to find.
So you don’t have any issues with the idea of using wave washers instead of a adjustable pre-load screw? Engineering approved by Peak Torque?
I have been avoiding GXP based on Hambinis reaming of GXP… 🤷🏼♂️
If you cannot get these and you need something that will last in bb86 brackets. Buy a power2max for rotor and fit it on a rotor 24mm steel axle. The downside is you cannot get carbon cranks to fit that axle. But the aldhu aluminium versions will do just fine.
I've got the same in an alloy version and they have only let me down once in 5 years - Annoyingly during a TT...Wiggle currently have the carbon DFour for £400, which is an excellent price!
Oh! You’re using 52/34! I live and ride in the mountains, and the 50/34 compact 105 I have is fine, but I spin out the fears easily on the way down. I do descents they are up to 20min at a constant 30-45mph. I’ve wondered whether a 52 would work.
How did you ‘get the chain length right?’
Long cage mech. Works fine. Chain length needs to be pretty spot on.
@@PeakTorque I would also be interested in how you got it that tuned. (I'm rocking SRAM AXS and the FD is picky about chain length.) Was it trial and error?
@@tobiasbouma4071 no. I've been running it on both my road bikes for about 6 yrs. Just need a medium or long cage mech.
Witj a new chain, place over big ring front and back, pull two ends together, then from where the chain meets add 2 links and bob is you aunty.
Croder SWD 6 review
How was the trip to France? And when you going on the Niro show?
Good but hot! Northern italy was better. Managed 19h in 5/6 days!
Decent that 👍👍
I had one Quarq DFour that worked for abouth 1year and a half, it just stopped working after riding trough heavy rain, for me is not the best power meter I had
GXP still available for Red AXS cranks
@
can't tell if sram already bought quark
@
sram is written on the crank and present in the shot
But the real question, did they put their hands into design at that point or was it only a badge yet.
SRAM bought Quarq in 2011. We are looking at a meter from 2016. Dzero/four was a brand new design by SRAM.
@@auricschiller ok, so the answer is somewhere in between: sram did not redesign the PW fully. Main technical addition were gauge replacement and auto zero. The rest are bells and whistles.
Killed 2 of those PMs in 3 years. First died within 6 month of use, warranty replacement also was dead after 26 months, no mechanical issues though...
😊
Mindblowing that GXP BB lasted that long - what's the secret? I was blowing through 2 or 3 a year before I binned it off for a Shimano system.
The secret is probably a round bottom bracket and name brand bearings.
A round, aligned BB shell I guess. Nothing fancy.
SRAM still makes GXP cranks in Force and Red level.
Quarq4lyf.
I stayed away from gxp after Hambinis video saying it’s the worst. Now you tell me it’s the best crank ever. How’s that possible? Just real life vs theory?
IM talking about the power meter and electronics.The gxp is just an axle standard. If everything is in tolerance, and you don't mess up the install of the wave spacer etc, it shouldn't give you any problems.
Hambini went on and on about how much friction it has, but he just barely mentioned that if you use it with a Shimano bb and a spacer it behaves just like Shimano crankset and all additional friction is gone. Also, these are way more reliable overall. Shimano cranks (especially the high end ones) are known for falling apart and their pinch bolts are super sensitive to torque, too much and you strip the screw, too little and the crank falls off and eats that fine spline. GXP doesn't suffer from any of these issues.
Yes, i know it’s just the axle but I had the impression zu were talking about the whole crankset and not needing to change bearings means the axle standard worked fine.
I didn’t know/think about just putting a spacer in there and use it with a Shimano bb. Pretty cool. Thanks. Do you need the wavy washer in that case?
This is why Sram is good
I thought a lot of people had concluded that GXP is the worst thing ever based on what a certain 5-year-old said...
Awesome.. 6 years use - big guy - going strong. I'm a GXP fan too. The big ring teeth always wear quick somehow.