My MSafe (I got after viewing your recommendation vid) lets me sleep at night or leave the house while having firearms in the house with kids. Handgun and bolt from my lever action live in the safe. It's perfect for my threat model; teenagers.
I don't like background music in videos. It's annoying. It's frequently way too loud. It's added amateurishly. It makes me click out. Thank you for not including it. Thank you for your helpful videos. Glad I found your channel.
I definitely like the overall features of msafe. I leaning more towards the 300 model because its has a little more depth versus the 350 which is slightly taller.
Nice to see a fellow Syntech user. Those lead free primers are great for keeping, well, lead of your body and that of your family. I will say that I wouldn't waste safe space with ear, eye protection, rather stock up several handguns and mags at the top, and use the bottom shelf for ammo. The other safe you approved two weeks ago is less than half the price but also holds less volume.
Yep, I like minimizing lead exposure. I've also switched to using polycarbonate coated cowboy cartridges in my revolvers. About the ear and eye protection: Those ears cost me about $280 (retail cost and shipping), and glasses about $200. I don't feel right leaving them out.
@@HandgunSafe *Cries in $20 ear pro and $18 eye pro from Amazon* (Didn't even know that stuff could get so expensive.) A slightly cheaper alternative to Syntech is Federal's IRT ammo (indoor range training). It uses the same Catalyst non toxic primers, but with a standard copper plated fmj bullet instead of polymer coated. I guess you could alternatively. dump the ammo in a small box and have more in there than if you keep the factory cardboard box with plastic insert.
Please tell me more. I was attracted to the idea of plastic coated bullets (disliked the price premium though,) but I never realized Syntech has lead free primer. Could you share you experience? Do they ignite well is various conditions (heat, cold, humidity?) or do you just use the at indoor ranges?
@@HandgunSafe It reminds me of a saying I heard _somewhere:_ if you've got the money to purchase dozen of firearms that are worth thousands of dollars each, you can afford to purchase a decent safe.
Thank you for explaining the uncovered margin/area for the bolt work. This video is now the latest feature in my (disconcertingly long?) "I told you so" playlist. Years ago I was coerced to help a 'family friend' participate in a workshop run by a jackass/expert-scammer who didn't see (or care to acknowledge) that the "friend's" safe didn't have a step separating that area from the bottom shelf. And while I was told to keep that area clear, I apparently was supposed to cover the entire surface, 'holes' included. After the much yelling and screaming about how now 'my(!?) friend' would have to pay an obscene amount of money to get materials to complete the task without the instructor; (after said instructor tore up the material which I measured to be more than enough to remake the disputed piece.) I maliciously agreed to "follow 'implied' instructions" using scraps of commercial carpeting in the mean time 'to use as a template' After (easily) doing so in the time it took said 'expert' to finish their tantrum with the rest of the workshop, I said: "Done. Exactly as you've demanded; But even if the door could close, you won't be able to lock safe with the bolt hole covered." After being shoved away so that I wouldn't "[continue] fight[ing] them turning the handle" they violently proved I was wrong; -- Friends of 'family friend' have brought it other times I've visited the area, not believing that a safe would have a bolt that goes into the same surface as the safe because it [the bolt] would pinch documents [without an offset to push them out of the way]. 'Family friend' kept the safe (the 'expert' threw their tools in it), but understandably has been unable to show anyone [of them] inside of it. -- It was opening the safe afterwards that was the problem. 😺
About using glue inside the safe, it's good to know that some people believe some glues might release formaldehyde into the air over time, which can cause rust, just like the ammo powder reacting with the air or humidity. Just in case, I'm opening the safe from time to time so that the air can circulate (although that could also be a bad idea if you live in a very damp area, I guess).
Interesting. Nearly all the full-sized safes made and sold in the U.S. have carpet lining the interior. I suppose one could contact these manufacturers to get tips on the best glue to use. I haven't had the time to look into that.
I approved it for my recommendations list. And I approved it because no one is getting into it by lock picking or prying off the keypad fitting or bouncing a solenoid (it doesn't have one) or exploiting any other common weakness I find in small safes.
Probably not, though I don't like the idea of somebody walking off with $275 hearing protection, or $200 glasses that just look like sun glasses to regular folks.
My MSafe (I got after viewing your recommendation vid) lets me sleep at night or leave the house while having firearms in the house with kids. Handgun and bolt from my lever action live in the safe. It's perfect for my threat model; teenagers.
Well said. I have already determined the recipients of this safe. I'm donating it to a family with a lot of guns and a lot of kids, including teens.
I don't like background music in videos. It's annoying. It's frequently way too loud. It's added amateurishly. It makes me click out. Thank you for not including it. Thank you for your helpful videos. Glad I found your channel.
I definitely like the overall features of msafe. I leaning more towards the 300 model because its has a little more depth versus the 350 which is slightly taller.
Nice to see a fellow Syntech user.
Those lead free primers are great for keeping, well, lead of your body and that of your family.
I will say that I wouldn't waste safe space with ear, eye protection, rather stock up several handguns and mags at the top, and use the bottom shelf for ammo.
The other safe you approved two weeks ago is less than half the price but also holds less volume.
Yep, I like minimizing lead exposure. I've also switched to using polycarbonate coated cowboy cartridges in my revolvers. About the ear and eye protection: Those ears cost me about $280 (retail cost and shipping), and glasses about $200. I don't feel right leaving them out.
@@HandgunSafe *Cries in $20 ear pro and $18 eye pro from Amazon* (Didn't even know that stuff could get so expensive.)
A slightly cheaper alternative to Syntech is Federal's IRT ammo (indoor range training). It uses the same Catalyst non toxic primers, but with a standard copper plated fmj bullet instead of polymer coated.
I guess you could alternatively. dump the ammo in a small box and have more in there than if you keep the factory cardboard box with plastic insert.
Please tell me more. I was attracted to the idea of plastic coated bullets (disliked the price premium though,) but I never realized Syntech has lead free primer. Could you share you experience? Do they ignite well is various conditions (heat, cold, humidity?) or do you just use the at indoor ranges?
@@steveturners1258 only tried at indoor range, worked fine. You can order a small case first to test, but I've never heard of issues with this ammo
awesome, glad to see more recommendations!
Thanks. Unfortunately, this video is not destined to be viewed much. People want recommendations, but they also don't want to spend more than $150.
@@HandgunSafe It reminds me of a saying I heard _somewhere:_ if you've got the money to purchase dozen of firearms that are worth thousands of dollars each, you can afford to purchase a decent safe.
Thank you for explaining the uncovered margin/area for the bolt work.
This video is now the latest feature in my (disconcertingly long?) "I told you so" playlist.
Years ago I was coerced to help a 'family friend' participate in a workshop run by a jackass/expert-scammer who didn't see (or care to acknowledge) that the "friend's" safe didn't have a step separating that area from the bottom shelf. And while I was told to keep that area clear, I apparently was supposed to cover the entire surface, 'holes' included.
After the much yelling and screaming about how now 'my(!?) friend' would have to pay an obscene amount of money to get materials to complete the task without the instructor; (after said instructor tore up the material which I measured to be more than enough to remake the disputed piece.) I maliciously agreed to "follow 'implied' instructions" using scraps of commercial carpeting in the mean time 'to use as a template'
After (easily) doing so in the time it took said 'expert' to finish their tantrum with the rest of the workshop, I said:
"Done. Exactly as you've demanded; But even if the door could close, you won't be able to lock safe with the bolt hole covered."
After being shoved away so that I wouldn't "[continue] fight[ing] them turning the handle" they violently proved I was wrong; --
Friends of 'family friend' have brought it other times I've visited the area, not believing that a safe would have a bolt that goes into the same surface as the safe because it [the bolt] would pinch documents [without an offset to push them out of the way]. 'Family friend' kept the safe (the 'expert' threw their tools in it), but understandably has been unable to show anyone [of them] inside of it.
-- It was opening the safe afterwards that was the problem. 😺
Excellent review. I mean excellent tactical review.
That's right. I didn't dress up that safe in camo for nothing.
About using glue inside the safe, it's good to know that some people believe some glues might release formaldehyde into the air over time, which can cause rust, just like the ammo powder reacting with the air or humidity.
Just in case, I'm opening the safe from time to time so that the air can circulate (although that could also be a bad idea if you live in a very damp area, I guess).
Interesting. Nearly all the full-sized safes made and sold in the U.S. have carpet lining the interior. I suppose one could contact these manufacturers to get tips on the best glue to use. I haven't had the time to look into that.
Dang! That thing is nice! Nice tip about adding the carpet. 😉 ...But why exactly is it "approved"?
I approved it for my recommendations list. And I approved it because no one is getting into it by lock picking or prying off the keypad fitting or bouncing a solenoid (it doesn't have one) or exploiting any other common weakness I find in small safes.
Where did you bought that specific professional tactical mil-spec duty grade wrapping paper again?
Hobby Lobby.
That safe looks familiar. I guess it's the extra large size?
Yes, different capacity.
Nice video, except no one keeps ear and eye protection in a safe.😊
Probably not, though I don't like the idea of somebody walking off with $275 hearing protection, or $200 glasses that just look like sun glasses to regular folks.
@@HandgunSafe I am sure you didn't cheap out on the cleaning supplies either. 😆