Sorry but I have quite a few questions. Do you mind giving us a list of all the electronics components that aren't included with the wand? I recently did your twist barrel grip mod, and everything was going fine until I noticed that the mode select hat button wasn't working. I looked in the inside and the white wire coming from the barrel to the gun was straight cut/stripped. So now I think I'll have to remove the white wire and just run my own wires from an actual push button to the body instead. Do you think this would work? And lastly, are you gonna have another video with your pack open? Thanks!
How deep do you have to drill to get to the screws on the gun track? Been wondering for a few days now... Just don't want to drill too deep and destroy the screw heads and never be able to access the inside of my wand. Thanks in advance for any help.
Sounds like the white wire got caught on something. To fix just bridge the wires with new wires and make sure that everything is tucked in and the barrel moves freely without get caught on anything. Or you can replace the wires completely and wire to a push button .
Domenic Dalcourt actually, what I did to remove the plastic covers over the screws was I dug a tiny hole in them with a pocket knife, then I took a screwdriver and turned it a while to burrow a bigger hole, then just popped them out with the screwdriver and/or tweezers. They came out pretty easily for me. I could show you pictures tomorrow (Monday the 5th of October) if you’d like.
@@seanschops3172 did you use shielded cabling? And it’s only when the motor is on. The sounds are clean sounding except when motor is on. It’s so strange. All connections are good and positive and negative are correct
Are you saying that when you turn the nob to increase the vibration you're getting the buzzing ? All of my wires are shielded and nothing is touching, could it be possible that when soldering a fleck of soldering made its way somewhere causing the issue?
@@seanschops3172 when I turn on the first 2 switches the sound is clean but when I turn on third switch and the vibration motor turns on I get a buzz. I think I figured it out. I’m using Ethernet wire to do audio and power through the hose. That’s not shielded. I’m changing it to shielded wire
What did you do to work around the auto shut down 'feature'? I, trying to tie my pack lights into the gun switches and I have everything on the same external power
It's still there currently. As long as the switch on the wand is in the ON position, the pack lights should still stay on. I believe I saw on ebay or etsy a very inexpensive ($20) module that someone created to keep the wand from shutting down. I considered purchasing it.
I'm asking myself why haslab miss stuff like this. It's like they do half (blank) work. The reason I criticize is because you have a after market for these things in the 4 figure range. Why not make this thing right to point people don't need to any serious mod's? Cosmetic is one thing,....but to many are having to do what this guy did....rewired, swap out the whole electrical/computer system, or add stuff that should have been there, but was forgotten/left out for some reason.
Your giving me lots of ideas thank you for this
Will you be doing any tutorials on this?
How do you change the batteries in the wand with it all hooked up?
What power supply did you use to power the amp?
Sorry but I have quite a few questions. Do you mind giving us a list of all the electronics components that aren't included with the wand? I recently did your twist barrel grip mod, and everything was going fine until I noticed that the mode select hat button wasn't working. I looked in the inside and the white wire coming from the barrel to the gun was straight cut/stripped. So now I think I'll have to remove the white wire and just run my own wires from an actual push button to the body instead. Do you think this would work? And lastly, are you gonna have another video with your pack open? Thanks!
How deep do you have to drill to get to the screws on the gun track? Been wondering for a few days now... Just don't want to drill too deep and destroy the screw heads and never be able to access the inside of my wand. Thanks in advance for any help.
Sounds like the white wire got caught on something. To fix just bridge the wires with new wires and make sure that everything is tucked in and the barrel moves freely without get caught on anything. Or you can replace the wires completely and wire to a push button .
I'll do a video on the inside of my pack soon when I open it back up.
New video is up, walk through of my electronics.
Domenic Dalcourt actually, what I did to remove the plastic covers over the screws was I dug a tiny hole in them with a pocket knife, then I took a screwdriver and turned it a while to burrow a bigger hole, then just popped them out with the screwdriver and/or tweezers. They came out pretty easily for me. I could show you pictures tomorrow (Monday the 5th of October) if you’d like.
I’m getting a buzzing noise when I do this and the motor is on. Any idea what could be causing this or how to fix it?
Make sure you made solid connections and that the positive is positive and negative to negative.
@@seanschops3172 did you use shielded cabling? And it’s only when the motor is on. The sounds are clean sounding except when motor is on. It’s so strange. All connections are good and positive and negative are correct
Are you saying that when you turn the nob to increase the vibration you're getting the buzzing ? All of my wires are shielded and nothing is touching, could it be possible that when soldering a fleck of soldering made its way somewhere causing the issue?
@@seanschops3172 when I turn on the first 2 switches the sound is clean but when I turn on third switch and the vibration motor turns on I get a buzz. I think I figured it out. I’m using Ethernet wire to do audio and power through the hose. That’s not shielded. I’m changing it to shielded wire
What did you do to work around the auto shut down 'feature'? I, trying to tie my pack lights into the gun switches and I have everything on the same external power
It's still there currently. As long as the switch on the wand is in the ON position, the pack lights should still stay on. I believe I saw on ebay or etsy a very inexpensive ($20) module that someone created to keep the wand from shutting down. I considered purchasing it.
What powers the amp and speakers?
@redshepherd the blue thing next to the amp is the battery
I'm asking myself why haslab miss stuff like this.
It's like they do half (blank) work.
The reason I criticize is because you have a after market for these things in the 4 figure range.
Why not make this thing right to point people don't need to any serious mod's?
Cosmetic is one thing,....but to many are having to do what this guy did....rewired, swap out the whole electrical/computer system, or add stuff that should have been there, but was forgotten/left out for some reason.
What speaker did you use inside the pack and what amplifier did you use?
Kinter K2020A+ Limited Edition Original Tripath TA2020-020 Class-T Hi-Fi Audio Mini Amplifier with 12V 5A Power Supply Black
That's the amp I believe
@@stewartmcminn7773 Thank you for your help!
After 2 years how is this mod holding up?
Great, haven't had a single issue.