Thanks Alex! Lots of hard work and prep went into making this build as perfect as possible. No real right or wrong so long as it works the part and looks good on the outside.
your cyclotron lights, I want to do something similar, the only exception is using chrome coated bowls and chrome reflector over the LED to hopefully make it brighter and distort the light so we dont see the LED
Yes this is something I eventually want to do too. A little body filler in the bowl and maybe some chrome paint, or rework the print to house an actual reflector like you mentioned. I don’t feel like the LED is seen per se, but something to defuse the light a bit more to make it look more incandescent rather than the bright LED.
Thanks! Getting close to completed. Need a few more parts from 3 different vendors. Might have to break off and start weathering the pack soon. Hoping to finish it by Halloween but I can see it’s going to be an ongoing project. For instance I want to build a smoke kit for it.
Def had fun punching the subscribe button! was there any chance you might have a link for the board LEDs for the vent light? would love to add to my next build.. and this is by far the most badass set up ive seen yet 🤘
Thanks for the support and happy you’ve enjoyed the video! Took me a min to locate where I purchased those panel lights from. The panel is a 5 volt 2”x 3” panel with 12 LEDs. Originally purchased through EBay though the seller has none listed. These appear to be the exact same ones I’ve used from a similarly named vendor: note this ships from China and took a long time to get here before the supply line issues. 5V LED Licht Panel Board 6/9/12/24 Piranha Night Lights Lamp US www.ebay.com/itm/5V-LED-Licht-Panel-Board-6-9-12-24-Piranha-Night-Lights-Lamp-US-/373740743026?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
I have not but did recall typing it up. Here’s links to the amp, high/low and the 12 to 24v transformer. *non affiliate links* PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out... www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAWS3W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share DROK 12v to 24v DC Converter,... www.amazon.com/dp/B075RQCW7G?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share Yuan-Jing TPA3116 Class D Amplifier Board 50W+50W www.parts-express.com/yuan-jing-tpa3116-class-d-amplifier-board-50w-50w--320-6554
Pretty good idea, it is quite a bit jarring when switching between sound files. Have no real experience with the coding on this board, do you have any sources for this?
Nicely done. Very clean. I’m curious about your power cell mount. What did you use as the base? I saw some kind of gray base underneath the brass legs under the pcb.
You referring to the large plate that all PCBs are mounted to? If so it’s just a sheet of 1/8in ABS cut to size with a few standoffs strategically placed.
@@breaksteel Sorry should’ve been more specific. It’s directly under the blue power cell light board. Looks like 4 stand offs under the board but then those are screwed into some kind of base that’s then mounted to your backboard. It’s that base part I’m curious about because it looks to provide and excellent lift for that board but also looks pretty stable. I’m using just 2 inch stand offs to mount that board to the backboard but it’s not that stable.
Ah, yes that’s a two part bracket I designed and 3D printed. The standoffs allow the power cell board to float above it to allow space for the wire molex. The bracket is two part because I wanted some adjustment to make it perfect height. It does fit so well that it’s kinda forgotten about.
2 years later, is it still kicking? I have a question of my own I have 2 mid speaker 6.5 45 watts RMS 90Peak 4ohm Rockford and 2 tweeter 24 max 120 rms 4 ohms DS18. I have the ninja tune which is about the same as a GBfan chip. Try all of em max volume and would get a bit of distortion on the tweeters. Every thing would work fine until the over heating part of the sound effect plays it'll shut of and I would have to power off the on to get it back up. Also tried with two mids and one tweeter. Everything would work fine still a lil distortion on the super bullet tweeter but no cutting off. Now if I play music especially my personal list parts of the track would get muted at its loudest point, now if I lower the volume I have no problems. Sorry for the long comment, but would this setup would fix my issue!? Plus, would it make it louder as is? And where would I find these add ons? Cause I've looked it up in Google and couldn't quite find it...... P.S. what did you use that you place your boards on. That texture sheet? Looks clean and professional
This setup is still running and still loud AF. Now your setup. This will make it louder but will make your issue worse at louder levels. You need a full range speaker or you need to add a crossover. Right now your sending treble mids and bass to all speakers. Your mids handle it cause they are closer in range to hit highs and lows. The tweeter is too far from the bass tones to play accurately giving you the crunchy distortion. With a crossover you can send bass tones to the mids and high tones to the tweeter. Barring a crossover you can just use full range speakers and be fine as is. There’s both active and passive crossovers. Passive may be better as you don’t need battery power at the slight compromise of sound. Active will sound better but now you may need a second battery in parallel or on its own for the amp and then everything else on the other one. Hope this helps.
uxcell 2pcs 180W High Low 2 Way Crossover Filter for Audio Frequency Divider a.co/d/7vrwTty Try that. I have no experience with that particular one but at $36 for 2 of them it’s worth a shot if your soldering skills are good. They have that proton pack feel to them. Self explanatory when hooking them up. Speaker wire goes to the IN and then bass to the W and highs to the T. If your no good soldering, learn the skill and or try this one: ACEIRMC 2pcs 400W Adjustable Multi Speaker Treble/Bass 2 Unit Audio Frequency Divider 2 Way Crossover Filters Updated Version a.co/d/f9GBOFn It’s way cheaper at $15 per pair and it’s got molex for the wiring. It’s 400w so way overkill but it should still work. Again it’s got that proton pack feel to it. Ether one of those boards should solve your treble issue.
I appreciate it might go for the none solder choice🤣 I know how to solder, but I'm still green on it. The none version I notice it's only trember and bass so being I got mids and high im assuming I'll attach my mids to trember but what about my tweeters?
Where did you get the Cyclotron LED/light holders that you mounted above the speaker? I can’t find them anywhere that actually has a threaded mount and not hot glue.
@@breaksteel Are you willing to sell your design. I love the way you lenses can mount verses others. Everything is going to be mounted to my motherboard where possible, no tape or glueing, They will fail if the pack sees heat. Also do you still have the wiring diagram you used for your amplified signal processing?
Just seeing this now. For those who are following along and want or need the printed items and or wiring diagram you can email me here Breaksteel@gmail.com
For those who have missed this fix, it turned out to be a weak battery. Blue Brick was swapped to a Talent-cell. Not saying Blue Brick is bad but they become weakened when drained of power and no longer have the capacity to drive this setup.
Any recommendations on an alternate power converter? The DROK one is indefinitely gone from Amazon and that appears to be Drok's only distribution method.
You can try something like what’s linked below. This one is fully sealed and is 12 to 24v. It also handles a bit higher amperage than the one I used in the video. It’s not similar looking but it will do the job. If this is not to your liking you can look for any 12v to 24v boost converter that has at least 6amp capacity. DROK 090183 Waterproof DC Synchronous Boost Converter Regulator DC-DC 9-20V 12V to 24V 5A/120W Step-up Power Supply Circuit Module Adapter with Aluminum Shell for Electric Motor www.amazon.com/dp/B00JUHEJJ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_2NSJV9FHNM6F94G24WXN
That's one of the most beautiful interiors of a pack I've seen. Mine looks like a rat's nest compared to this work of art. Great work!!
Thanks Alex! Lots of hard work and prep went into making this build as perfect as possible. No real right or wrong so long as it works the part and looks good on the outside.
Now this is my kind of nuclear accelerator
Thanks for stopping by to check it out. Love this thing!
This is KILLER! Exactly what I was looking to do for my work-in-progress pack!
Thanks!
Let me know if you have any questions or need help getting it all together. Sorry for the late reply and thanks for watching!
This puts a smile on my face
I couldn’t ask for a better reaction. Thanks for watching!
your cyclotron lights, I want to do something similar, the only exception is using chrome coated bowls and chrome reflector over the LED to hopefully make it brighter and distort the light so we dont see the LED
Yes this is something I eventually want to do too. A little body filler in the bowl and maybe some chrome paint, or rework the print to house an actual reflector like you mentioned. I don’t feel like the LED is seen per se, but something to defuse the light a bit more to make it look more incandescent rather than the bright LED.
There is a CA glue made for clear parts that won't fog. It's called Super-Gold.
This I need. Countless clear parts have been mared with glue.
This build looks awesome. 🙏 Any chance you could throw a wiring diagram together?
I have a wiring diagram somewhere, shoot me an email addy and I’ll send it.
Shaping up. Looks sweet
Thanks! Getting close to completed. Need a few more parts from 3 different vendors. Might have to break off and start weathering the pack soon. Hoping to finish it by Halloween but I can see it’s going to be an ongoing project. For instance I want to build a smoke kit for it.
Def had fun punching the subscribe button! was there any chance you might have a link for the board LEDs for the vent light? would love to add to my next build.. and this is by far the most badass set up ive seen yet 🤘
Thanks for the support and happy you’ve enjoyed the video!
Took me a min to locate where I purchased those panel lights from. The panel is a 5 volt 2”x 3” panel with 12 LEDs. Originally purchased through EBay though the seller has none listed. These appear to be the exact same ones I’ve used from a similarly named vendor: note this ships from China and took a long time to get here before the supply line issues.
5V LED Licht Panel Board 6/9/12/24 Piranha Night Lights Lamp US
www.ebay.com/itm/5V-LED-Licht-Panel-Board-6-9-12-24-Piranha-Night-Lights-Lamp-US-/373740743026?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
@@breaksteel mate! in words of the great winston zeddemore "if someboday ask's if you're a god you say YES! 🤣
Point taken, thank you, and YES!
@@breaksteel it literally took almost 3 months but i managed to get some of those LED panels 😁 Thanks again mate
They are so worth the wait. Very bright and nearly perfect size.
Have you shared the parts list for the amplifier and high low?
I have not but did recall typing it up. Here’s links to the amp, high/low and the 12 to 24v transformer. *non affiliate links*
PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out... www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAWS3W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
DROK 12v to 24v DC Converter,... www.amazon.com/dp/B075RQCW7G?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Yuan-Jing TPA3116 Class D Amplifier Board 50W+50W
www.parts-express.com/yuan-jing-tpa3116-class-d-amplifier-board-50w-50w--320-6554
Do you have a wiring diagram?
@@owenkennedy1015 Yes I have one though its not hosted online. Email me at breaksteel@gmail.com and I'll send one over.
You should edit the sound so that it transitions better
Pretty good idea, it is quite a bit jarring when switching between sound files. Have no real experience with the coding on this board, do you have any sources for this?
Does the sd card come with it
If I remember correctly the SD card holds the sound files, so yes it comes with it.
Nicely done. Very clean. I’m curious about your power cell mount. What did you use as the base? I saw some kind of gray base underneath the brass legs under the pcb.
You referring to the large plate that all PCBs are mounted to? If so it’s just a sheet of 1/8in ABS cut to size with a few standoffs strategically placed.
@@breaksteel Sorry should’ve been more specific. It’s directly under the blue power cell light board. Looks like 4 stand offs under the board but then those are screwed into some kind of base that’s then mounted to your backboard. It’s that base part I’m curious about because it looks to provide and excellent lift for that board but also looks pretty stable. I’m using just 2 inch stand offs to mount that board to the backboard but it’s not that stable.
Ah, yes that’s a two part bracket I designed and 3D printed. The standoffs allow the power cell board to float above it to allow space for the wire molex. The bracket is two part because I wanted some adjustment to make it perfect height. It does fit so well that it’s kinda forgotten about.
@@breaksteel I love it. Would the 3d plans be something you are willing to share?
I have sold them a few times in the past. I’ve been thinking of starting a website to do just that. If your interested in them we can switch to email.
2 years later, is it still kicking? I have a question of my own I have 2 mid speaker 6.5 45 watts RMS 90Peak 4ohm Rockford and 2 tweeter 24 max 120 rms 4 ohms DS18. I have the ninja tune which is about the same as a GBfan chip. Try all of em max volume and would get a bit of distortion on the tweeters. Every thing would work fine until the over heating part of the sound effect plays it'll shut of and I would have to power off the on to get it back up. Also tried with two mids and one tweeter. Everything would work fine still a lil distortion on the super bullet tweeter but no cutting off. Now if I play music especially my personal list parts of the track would get muted at its loudest point, now if I lower the volume I have no problems. Sorry for the long comment, but would this setup would fix my issue!? Plus, would it make it louder as is? And where would I find these add ons? Cause I've looked it up in Google and couldn't quite find it...... P.S. what did you use that you place your boards on. That texture sheet? Looks clean and professional
This setup is still running and still loud AF. Now your setup. This will make it louder but will make your issue worse at louder levels. You need a full range speaker or you need to add a crossover. Right now your sending treble mids and bass to all speakers. Your mids handle it cause they are closer in range to hit highs and lows. The tweeter is too far from the bass tones to play accurately giving you the crunchy distortion. With a crossover you can send bass tones to the mids and high tones to the tweeter. Barring a crossover you can just use full range speakers and be fine as is. There’s both active and passive crossovers. Passive may be better as you don’t need battery power at the slight compromise of sound. Active will sound better but now you may need a second battery in parallel or on its own for the amp and then everything else on the other one. Hope this helps.
For the sheet, search “Source One Premium 1/8 Inches Black or White Textured ABS Acrylic Sheet (6 x 12, Black)” on Amazon
So what kind of cross over should I look up? Sorry my knowledge on speakers lack Terribly but im ain't afraid to learn
uxcell 2pcs 180W High Low 2 Way Crossover Filter for Audio Frequency Divider a.co/d/7vrwTty
Try that. I have no experience with that particular one but at $36 for 2 of them it’s worth a shot if your soldering skills are good. They have that proton pack feel to them. Self explanatory when hooking them up. Speaker wire goes to the IN and then bass to the W and highs to the T.
If your no good soldering, learn the skill and or try this one:
ACEIRMC 2pcs 400W Adjustable Multi Speaker Treble/Bass 2 Unit Audio Frequency Divider 2 Way Crossover Filters Updated Version a.co/d/f9GBOFn
It’s way cheaper at $15 per pair and it’s got molex for the wiring. It’s 400w so way overkill but it should still work. Again it’s got that proton pack feel to it. Ether one of those boards should solve your treble issue.
I appreciate it might go for the none solder choice🤣 I know how to solder, but I'm still green on it. The none version I notice it's only trember and bass so being I got mids and high im assuming I'll attach my mids to trember but what about my tweeters?
Where did you get the Cyclotron LED/light holders that you mounted above the speaker? I can’t find them anywhere that actually has a threaded mount and not hot glue.
I designed and printed them. The files never made their way online. I had been meaning to add them to Patreon.
@@breaksteel
Are you willing to sell your design. I love the way you lenses can mount verses others. Everything is going to be mounted to my motherboard where possible, no tape or glueing, They will fail if the pack sees heat. Also do you still have the wiring diagram you used for your amplified signal processing?
Just seeing this now. For those who are following along and want or need the printed items and or wiring diagram you can email me here
Breaksteel@gmail.com
Hey this is awesome! I’m trying this, but I am doing something wrong. Can you share a wiring diagram?
I don’t have it hosted anywhere, send me an email address and I’ll send it over.
Sent! Thanks! I’m doing something wrong when hooking it all up to the battery. Everything shuts down.
For those who have missed this fix, it turned out to be a weak battery. Blue Brick was swapped to a Talent-cell. Not saying Blue Brick is bad but they become weakened when drained of power and no longer have the capacity to drive this setup.
Any recommendations on an alternate power converter? The DROK one is indefinitely gone from Amazon and that appears to be Drok's only distribution method.
You can try something like what’s linked below. This one is fully sealed and is 12 to 24v. It also handles a bit higher amperage than the one I used in the video. It’s not similar looking but it will do the job. If this is not to your liking you can look for any 12v to 24v boost converter that has at least 6amp capacity.
DROK 090183 Waterproof DC Synchronous Boost Converter Regulator DC-DC 9-20V 12V to 24V 5A/120W Step-up Power Supply Circuit Module Adapter with Aluminum Shell for Electric Motor www.amazon.com/dp/B00JUHEJJ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_2NSJV9FHNM6F94G24WXN
@@breaksteel Thanks. I’ll give it a shot
Good luck with it!
Hello, sweet build would you mind sharing the .stl file for those cyclotron led pods?
Shoot me an email address and I’ll send them over.