Video

Yes this is something I eventually want to do too. A little body filler in the bowl and maybe some chrome paint, or rework the print to house an actual reflector like you mentioned. I don’t feel like the LED is seen per se, but something to defuse the light a bit more to make it look more incandescent rather than the bright LED.

Trace the power through the board. Sounds like you have a component somewhere thats ether backwards or burned out.

The Microview may be the problem. When flashing these things I’ve come across a large percentage that burn up.

It’s NO. www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/panasonic-electronic-components/ESE-11HS1/286383?s=N4IgTCBcDaIAoEYAMAOAbAFgMoFoByAIiALoC%2BQA

@@breaksteel Thank you. I'm making a remix because this switch is not available in my region ;]

Go here: github.com/projectfdl/FDL-3-Blaster/tree/master/PCB Then grab the board file for the one you want. Import that into a program like Eagle to create your own Gerber file.

@@breaksteel Thank you for your time, but I meant the gerber file itself. It's good that I made the ready-made gerber files's available on my own github for others who are not familiar with it. I think this will make the project more popular.

If I remember correctly the SD card holds the sound files, so yes it comes with it.

Outside of tightening the ring they may be worn out or the tolerances were off from factory. The ones I use are too tight but never have to worry about accidental uncoupling.

Stoked this worked for you! Nothing like that sinking feeling you may have to sit out the game you looked forward to. It’s also easy to think it’s something more complicated than it sometimes is. This pin issue is easily overlooked. Happy you found the vid and got back into it. Thanks for watching!

I’ll take a look at my base when I get a chance and get back you with the magnets proper location.

When did you order it?

@@breaksteel Not sure , at least 3 years or better, just not sure.

There was never a notice. It was something I noticed when doing bench tests. Not sure what was the underlying cause but TBS was quick with the fix.

Ouch, tragedy for sure. Good news is out of everything that can go wrong with scuba, a lost GoPro is very low on the list. Don’t let it ruin your adventure.

I still go to this VTX for my larger builds. Still can’t get over how hot they get. That heat sink is a huge upgrade.

@@breaksteel you have a link for an example of the heatsink, i actually just got one of these vtx's and found your video and yeah it gets hot lol..

You need the Runcam remote and then watch this video but turn the OSD on instead of off.

Thank you, love this thing. Still working as good as the day it was built.

Sounds like it’s time for a new FC. This is why I’ve never been a fan of the all in one boards. One component goes and everything else becomes scrap. If it’s new I’d see if you can return it or exchange it. Could also look to repair it

I bought it on offer up for $40 but everything on it is super old. Im pretty sure each motor has its own ecs and a pdb instead of a fc ecs stack. But it's a 6 or 7 inch frame fully built. But now a project

Definitely sounds like a project quad. New FC is a good place to start. Might fly way better with the newer tech on it anyways.

O yeah I'm getting the speedybee f7 stack for it. I'm pretty sure the fc is still good but still super old they don't even make it anymore

One of those I’m bad at multitasking videos.

Completely.

Yeah it’s pretty amazing stuff when compared to random off the shelf stuff. Thanks for watching!

There was an update that fixed it. Never really found out exactly what happened but it was one firmware build that was giving the issue.

@@breaksteel thanks.

This setup is still running and still loud AF. Now your setup. This will make it louder but will make your issue worse at louder levels. You need a full range speaker or you need to add a crossover. Right now your sending treble mids and bass to all speakers. Your mids handle it cause they are closer in range to hit highs and lows. The tweeter is too far from the bass tones to play accurately giving you the crunchy distortion. With a crossover you can send bass tones to the mids and high tones to the tweeter. Barring a crossover you can just use full range speakers and be fine as is. There’s both active and passive crossovers. Passive may be better as you don’t need battery power at the slight compromise of sound. Active will sound better but now you may need a second battery in parallel or on its own for the amp and then everything else on the other one. Hope this helps.

For the sheet, search “Source One Premium 1/8 Inches Black or White Textured ABS Acrylic Sheet (6 x 12, Black)” on Amazon

So what kind of cross over should I look up? Sorry my knowledge on speakers lack Terribly but im ain't afraid to learn

uxcell 2pcs 180W High Low 2 Way Crossover Filter for Audio Frequency Divider a.co/d/7vrwTty Try that. I have no experience with that particular one but at $36 for 2 of them it’s worth a shot if your soldering skills are good. They have that proton pack feel to them. Self explanatory when hooking them up. Speaker wire goes to the IN and then bass to the W and highs to the T. If your no good soldering, learn the skill and or try this one: ACEIRMC 2pcs 400W Adjustable Multi Speaker Treble/Bass 2 Unit Audio Frequency Divider 2 Way Crossover Filters Updated Version a.co/d/f9GBOFn It’s way cheaper at $15 per pair and it’s got molex for the wiring. It’s 400w so way overkill but it should still work. Again it’s got that proton pack feel to it. Ether one of those boards should solve your treble issue.

I appreciate it might go for the none solder choice🤣 I know how to solder, but I'm still green on it. The none version I notice it's only trember and bass so being I got mids and high im assuming I'll attach my mids to trember but what about my tweeters?

This I need. Countless clear parts have been mared with glue.

It can be soldered direct if you remove the moles connector. Not sure it would be any more secure relying on those traces though. You may also need thermal paste for reassembly, they may be using the case as a heat sync. Best bet would be to lift the pins slightly to get a better connection and then use a dab of hot glue (or other removable glue) to hold the molex in place.

They are close but not the same thing. 0027 is a 60/40 blend and the other is the 63/37 blend. They may also have different flux.

Pretty sure the ones that don’t grow wings.

I’ve thought about putting cameras and screens in these to give them that working feel. This is a whole different level.

Do you know if flux has the same corrosion properties in space as it does here on land? I know Kester uses a lower acid flux but my guess is you the thoroughly wash soldered joints before sending them into orbit.

@@breaksteel I am not sure. But I can tell you the boards have to be absolutely spotless (the flux is removed with Axarel 2200 and vacuumed off), then washed in high purity IPA. No contamination is allowed or the boards are rejected.

Makes sense. Better to not have to answer that question by having components fail while in orbit by removing any chance of corrosion. Not even sure they could test it without having to then retrieve test object from orbit.

I’m not sure exactly how this works on a board level. If I had to guess I’d say it’s bridging the pads but only briefly similar to a PWM signal. Board sees the pulses and reacts accordingly. Two different brands use two different signals? My guess is as good as yours.

@@breaksteel I see what happened. I am used to foxeer and I bought this JB runcam that ships out of the box in "uart control" I didn't realize you had to start the camera with the pins shorted and then re start kinda like in your video to get the pad to work. I thought that was just for removing the OSD! The pad does work from foxeer

Ah I forgot you can control those remotely using a uart. Usually just set them after a build and then never adjust them after. That and uarts always being in short supply. Happy it’s working for you now. Enjoy it!

I couldn’t ask for a better reaction. Thanks for watching!

I think this trap cost between $500 and $700 to build. With all the real little parts, smoke, and electronics it adds up. I could imagine it costing much more now with some of the electronics being in short supply. All in all worth it cause there’s nothing close to its functions available otherwise.

Can totally see the pull for running them this way. Especially true if your using them for camera rigs or other heavily used professions. The speed of battery changes begins to outweigh the risks.

Hope you can find some cheaper, it’s expensive here too. Amazon seems to have the best price if that’s available in Germany?

@@breaksteel I found a very good substitute for Kester, it's called Cynel 60/40 it's made in Poland and the wetting action of it is almost the same as Kester but with -50% the price! You should check it out and see what you think about it!

Looks like most is sold in Poland and none available in the states. I’ll check EBay, maybe some sellers have it available.

@@breaksteel Fair enaugh! Stay safe 👍 +1 𝗦𝘂𝗯𝘀𝗰𝗿𝗶𝗯𝗲𝗿

Este VTX é mais poderoso que o Pro 5G8 e o 5.8. Eu sugiro certificar-se de que sua antena e rabo de porco não são os culpados antes de colocar mais energia em sua configuração. Este VTX possui proteções para RF refratada, mas é melhor ter uma configuração sólida em primeiro lugar. This VTX is more powerful than the Pro 5G8 and the 5.8. I'd suggest making certain your antenna and pigtail is not to blame before throwing more power at your setup. This VTX has protections for refracted RF but its better to have a solid setup in the first place.

This is also a scratch build and not a kit.

The switch is mounted to a 3D printed bracket that mounts to another doughnut shaped 3D printed part. The first bracket acts as a stopper to keep your foot from crushing the switch too much. The doughnut shaped base is just large enough to go inside the bellows and keep a tight friction mount. You can also use some super glue. There’s a top doughnut shaped piece that glues to the foot pedal for the top of the bellows. It’s pretty secure and the switch is protected but no easily replaced.

Something is wrong, this process should also work in reverse.

@@breaksteel i have two of these cams and both are in the same state. Oh well, at least i have video

That’s good, it tells me the cameras are fine. Something is wrong with your remote or the wiring with it.

Full auto tail allows for 13 rounds a second while holding the trigger. Semi auto is slightly less costly and requires a trigger pull for each shot. Full auto tail is way more fun. Semi auto is for those who have field restrictions.

@@breaksteel But cant you change the settings on burst mode?

Totally different hardware. It’s designed so a semi auto can not fire auto or burst regardless of the software settings.

I would love to do a step by step but that would be an intensive set of videos. I have been meaning to record a “where I sourced parts” video. Only trouble is 6months later and those sources run dry. I suppose a few videos explaining some of the processes would be helpful. Some good ideas here for sure. In the mean time if you have any questions I’m always willing to lend some help. Yes this project is intimidating. Best to break it down into smaller parts or projects. Becomes more rewarding as you see many small projects completed and the pack starts to look as one. Most of all take your time. A rushed pack always looks like a rushed pack.

@@breaksteel I think it would be a lot of videos, but it would make for great content, increase subscribers and help many people! I'd be happy to help in any capacity. I'm not sure how to send messages on this platform but feel free to contact me if you need help, ideas or some camera gear suggestions. The cosplay thing is huge where I live. I'm sure you can do it! Thanks for the comment and looking forward to more great content!

It’s actually a little less amp draw than that. 500mw = .5w. .5w / 12v = 0.0416 amps Powerful little bugger that is easy on batteries.

@@breaksteel Ok . Trouble shooting .Its just I have 2 quads . One has a tank and other zeus vtx. Both mamba FC's . F405 and F722 with onboard 2amp 5v bec to feed vtx. both birds when switch from 200 to 500 in few minutes in air break up starts and then white out! Thought vts's was sucking to many amps at 500. I.m thinks not after viewing your great video . I thank you. yeah I'm fishing you ! lol

I never like putting VTX on a 5v pad. Most VTXs will take 5v to 12v, feed it the higher voltage and if there is any sag your still in operating range. When you feed it 5v and there is any sag you dip below operating range and get zero video feed or worse a VTX reboot giving you no video at all for a few seconds. Try swapping out the pad and see if the result is the same.

@@breaksteel Thanks you ! bet your right ! I get scared ! VTX manual states input 5v max. VTX specs state 5-36 v inputs so I get scared. I will up the power ! Your a good man !

Tank says 7 to 36v DC in right on its case. This is likely your issue . 5v just isn’t enough. Hit it with 12v pad and you’ll be flying much more confidently.

I’ve given some thought to this as well. Two separate ideas come into mind. Both involve putting the goggle guts into a printed Ecto Goggle frame which would continue to act as FPV goggles. The other idea was to do the same as above but add cameras into each of the lenses to give a detached from reality look into reality. Then you could use real time OSD and other overlays to give a sense of them actually being Ecto Goggles. I’d love to see some built. May make my own eventually.