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Indiana Jones Temple of Doom Arcade PCB repair Atari System 1
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- čas přidán 16. 04. 2017
- This board has a lot to offer: Rusty ic legs fallig off, rusty sockets, missing chips, bad chips, and and a tricky short circuit hidden on the board. Enjoy!
Wanted to thank you for the thorough walk-through on the Indy cartridge PCB. Your detailed description of the chipsets on the board helped be find the loose graphics rom - my game is working back at peak efficiency!
You are a clever clever guy. Love your videos, really inspirational. I wish I had a fraction of your talent.
Cool. I have made custom chip replacements for the VLSI board which use CPLD's. These also work on Gaultlet, so if you have a bad custom chip it can be repaired / replaced. Regards, Colin
Hi Colin! So great to get a response from you :-) At one point at this repair when I considered the slags chip being bad I actually had read all about your effort to reproduce the chip on jammaplus and thought your work was absolutely amazing and was actually half-ready to try to get my hands on one! Thank you very much for your comment!!! I hope to be able to post some more videos you might find interesting soon.
sub number 12. loving the vids mr doktorzett keep up the good work . brilliand explaination and filming of how you do things. dont be shy of doing long videos and getting as much info in as you can . ive been in the hobby for about five years now and im getting more and more in to board repair but still at the dead basics with only my logic probe but im on my way to getting a programmer and maybe one day a oscilloscope so yes please keep up the great work and your looking like a genuine gem to the restoration and preservation of all the poorly arcades out there
Thank you for your comment and for subscribing of course. The logic probe is I guess the basic tool for arcade repair. The oscilloscope only played a minor role in this video but sometimes also turned out to be the crucial instrument to locate the problem in the past. I also have a logic analyzer and a Fluke 9010 µP-troubleshooter which also came into play in some earlier repairs. So if you would like to see more about the tools - in my upcoming vids I will of course be using them when they are helpful and will be trying to explain as much as I can. I hope that my future vids could be in this way helpful to you.
woo hoo sub number 10.
i really like watching video game repair and electronics videos, and you are very good, lots of info and explanation, just need more light for the camera really. keep on making vids and fixing games. i was born in 1971 and have been playing games since 1977, pong and atari vcs, and ofc arcade games at the bowling alley. amazing and fun to see the old hardware still running, with some tender love and care
Thank you very much for your feedback, I really appreciate it. I plan to make more repair videos - I got a stack of non working boards left to fix :-). This vid got reallly dark in the end because the sunlight was gone for the day. I really need to get some more light in the room. :-)
you are welcome. i look forward to seeing more videos by you.
good video thanks for making it cant wait to see more
Thank you! Next pcb repair video should be ready by early next week.
Thanks for your videos! Danke!
I'm glad you found the video helpful! Gern geschehen!
Great informative video I have several carts showing 'software exception error' on a TTL Motherboard however the same carts work fine on a LSI motherboard. Have you any ideas why the cartridge would work on one version of Motherboard and not the other?. BTW have you seen Aaron Lidiment's Multi system 1 Cart over on KLOV?
This was cool to see, since I'm getting ready to fix a Road Blasters soon. Luckily it has the TTL main board as well. Did you have to do anything for the reset circuit? If I remember right, Road Blasters had part of the reset circuit on the audio amp PCB, so the game would not run without it connected.
No, I also have a roadblasters cartridge and it works right on the bench. Just connect power to the motherboard (+5, -5, +12 through the 12 pin molex connector as seen in the vid) and connect it to the rgb monitor. It should run right away.
excellent diagnosis! you definitely gave me some ideas for troubleshooting my boards. You mentioned some signals like chip enable to look for. Is that usually a good starting place when trying to track down logic errors? Is it pretty standard for eproms to have these signals?
The chip enable pin on an eprom is an access-enable switch. "ON" means the device responds to changes on its input pins (address information) and drives the output pins (data lines), while "OFF" tells the device to ignore the outside world for both inputs and outputs.
Checking the pin enable line tells you weather the eprom is really being accessed by anything (for instance a cpu). It is usually an active-low signal meaning if it is stuck high the eprom is not active at all, if it is low all the time then the eprom is active all the time, a toggling signal of course indicates an intermittent activity.
In my Double Dragon board #3 repair when I checked the digital sound eproms I could immediately tell that the eprom was bad when I saw that the chip enable (and output enable) were tied low all the time and the outputs were disconnected (floating as you say).
Hi, this is a very old video but I was curious about your power supply and how you cabled an recent PSU to the weird Atari System 1 voltages? Thanks for the great video!
Well at 6:47 you can kind of see the pinout. I used red +5v, black ground, yellow +12v and white -5v which are available on a regular arcade switching power supply.
@@christophzett Great, wasn't sure about the regular PSU. Thanks for the anwser!
great Video.
Just one question about your eprom „layout“ and your jumper settings. Do can make a closeup to the section?
To my mind the Rom description in Mame and the manual are different. It would be great if you can assign the used mame eprom numbers to the PCB location. So I can bring may PCB with some missing Eproms back to life.
Thanks! I'd really like to help you out but I actually don't own that game any more-... Maybe you should try the klov.com forums.
yepp I will try it there (or in UKVAC).thanks
one thing an this is a bad ideal at near 28 min mark do not remove chips with power on.. good way to fry something..
I have one of these boards. The one chip that I cannot read is the prom 136036.151 The colors go bad when this chip does not work.
why you don’t make a new one?
Not sure how at this point.
He does mention in the video that using the last three numbers you can use MAME library to recover the code, in your case I believe it is 151. Good luck!
Where do you get game roms for the proms you burn?
Try a google on "indiana jones temple of doom arcade roms".
doktorzett okay ya I figured I should of done that before asking. Sorry
No problem... :-)
socalled ttl lol