How To Get A Beautiful, Long Lasting Paint Job On Your Engine For One Dollar
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- čas přidán 10. 02. 2022
- Getting paint to stick to your engine and look good for any amount of time is a task easier said than done. Here's a method we've developed over the years that consistently holds up and shines, that involves nothing but simple hardware store goods. Best part, is that the total cost of everything we laid on this Big Block Mopar was around one dollar!
Here's the step by step so you can reproduce these results at home.
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#Rustoleum #HemiOrange #FordBlue - Auta a dopravní prostředky
when it comes to painting anything, its 90% prep and 10% doing the paint
Absolutely correct!
It's both!
You are not going for a paint job, you're giving your engine a clean, "witnessable" appearance which helps you identify leaks and look good doing it. Brush works great 👍
Well said
Exactly, and much easier to clean when you have a sealed, rather than a porous cast iron surface.
☑️ Yeah, that's true, but there's another significant benefit to painting your Mopar or GM engine! Applying a can of Ford blue engine paint is an easy way to pick up an extra 75hp + 70ft/lbs of torque! 😁
@@HighlanderNorth1 The only caution I would give there is, there are many documented cases of organ rejection with that approach.
First of all I'd like to say I love your videos very knowledgeable my one and only question for you you're using Rust-Oleum paint with a brush do you know if safety orange color from Rust-Oleum is almost similar to the Mopar Orange engine color I'm asking because that's the only luck that I found with that color with Rust-Oleum any suggestions would be helpful keep up the good work my friend
Channeling your inner Bob Ross I see. "Happy little casting numbers (trees)...". I love it!
CZcams should give this guy one of the awards for most educational channels. I watch all the videos of his I can. He’s got a certain temperament and way about him that makes it easy to learn what he’s teaching. This video is pretty basic stuff but dude has massive knowledge about engines and how everything works
"Happy little casting numbers". Bob is hiding out at UTG!
More of you old school guys need to be making videos like this. These little trucks that lead to the best and most affordable results are invaluable. Thanks my man. I’m gonna use this 👍
This is stuff we learned from our elders growing up. I'm 58 and I try to pass my knowledge on to whoever is interested.
Ooh man im about to do this soon
Fabulous
Uncle Tony is like the Paul Harrell of engine building. 👍
😂😂😂 thats a great comparison.
I got that reference!
"Today we are using Remington golden Saber 180gr full metal jacket 40.cal ammunition out of a 4th gen glock 22"
Another tip is that some hardware stores can mix enamels to any of the colors that they have for their latex paint. I have done this many times and most people don’t know about this.
Here's trick learned from doing marine engines. Cut your gloss Rustoleum with about 8~10% acetone. And use a better brush.
It'll gloss even better, it'll flow into corners better, and it'll bite into the primer for a better bond 😊
It's hard to paint well with a cheap brush. Those are dollar tree level brushes he's using.
I cut my Rustoleum w/ mineral spirits and had success results. It dries to a satin finish, though. Looks great for the undercarriage and dries very smooth like it was sprayed on.
Last step, Immediately as you get the paint applied, pull all your brushstrokes the same direction.
"I learned that trick from a carpenter"
@@JayMalone26 same
Depending on weather, is what I cut it with, but it seems to always be Acetone because its the winter lol. And a Purdy brush, because I paint houses as well lol. Pretty cool tip he has on that Torch, I'm definitely going to give that a go from now on.
1:28 "... do a video on it!" Well said! It's a challenge to all of the armchair critics who just have to point out how much smarter or more skilled they are than the person who actually is putting out fantastic, useful content.
Cheers from Key West,
Capt. Blackheart Charlie
Last place I was on holidays was Key West…so nice.
Keys are AWESOME! 239 here.
hey bud, you ever run into Kevin from how to sail oceans channel? that dude is pretty hardcore lol
Just followed your instructions to paint my block. Turned out amazingly! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge! It turned out beautiful!! Thank you !!
Never would've thought to use a torch to sweat the engine. Thank you for the great video
I love that you keep your channel focus on home builds. Your knowledge pool is admirable. I hope to be half as knowledgeable
I can’t believe we didn’t get to watch the paint dry 🤣🤣🤣🤣❤️❤️❤️❤️
You are the Bob Ross of engine painting. The the ideas and methods you show help us diy people. Many thanks!
Happy little casting numbers, let them shine. There you go, happy!
This is the best "low budget" how to for the average guy in a very long time. Thanks T!
I love these videos so much thanks for sharing the experience UTG
Built on utg? Never would've guessed
I've used Rustoleum as engine paint for years. I also like to use their "hammered finish" paint on the sheet metal parts like valve covers and oil pans. It leaves a different type of surface that helps hide small imperfections. On top of that, it just looks cool!
Hammertone on engine blocks would actually look pretty cool I reckon. Hammertone grey or Altec Lansing green would make an engine look very no nonsense 'industrial.'
Years ago in high school, we were restoring a pickup and the teacher had us he's black Rust-Oleum brush on paint for the frame.
We laughed.
That was like 1990.
I saw the truck about 10 years ago at a show and it still looked like we just painted it.
I'm a believer.
I used it on one of my builds ,came out great for all the suspension.
I've had great success with a 30$ husky detail gun and real automotive paint for engines ,works 10x better then duplicolor engine paint and is alot glossier and durable, but the Rust-Oleum is the next best.
You can get the same effect from dumping dot3 on it, ask me how I know 🙄
I paint all chassis, roll cages and fabricated components with the black hammertone Rustolium. That stuff is fantastic. Brush or roll on only. The spray cans aren't the same thing. It doesn't separate right. It's like flat black with bubbles.
@@wht240sxka how ? why? and in replace of ? 3 dot will eat ur paint..
Yeees, the Bob Ross of engine paint application!!!
Happy little engine block, The Bob Ross of engine painting!
This video is exactly why I watch UTG. But now I feel like pulling my motor, stripping it down, map gas, acetone, and painting it with a brush. next time... Thanks Uncle Tony. your videos are much appreciated.
50 years ago a professional painter told me Rust Oleum is very good paint. just do it rite and let it dry well. I have done 5 vehicles with it and they all came out fine.
Rust-Oleum has a new paint out called implement paint. We buy it at Tractor Supply, holds up great on frames and blocks. Spray cans aren't what they used to be. VHT used to be the best.......till they sissified it
@@reaper20015 I have always bad bad results with VHT. First tried it around 2005-ish and it held up like crap. It's also expensive. I switched off to spray bombs of Rust-Oleum engine enamel and I'm happy with it so far.
The Bob Ross of engine painters 👨🏼🎨
Happy engines
15:14 Your technique isn't bad at all. And you're really close to it looking absolutely amazing. All you need to do is work on the discipline to do one thing: to a quick light coat. I mean not even cover the block entirely. Let the primer show through so only about 25% of the block is actually covered in the fresh paint. This is called a tack coat, and it significantly expands that "margin of error" for runs.
I love the “nod” to Bob Ross when you mentioned, “happy little casting numbers”. Great videos, keep ‘em coming!
The Bob Ross of engine painting!
Painting happy little engines. Little paint here little paint there. This guy needs a friend. Just like that
The reason that the original SBC became orange is because when Ed Cole first created it, his wife worked at Detroit Public Works, and she brought home some orange traffic enamel paint and Ed Cole wanted a bright color that would stand out in his '54 Chevy Belaire hardtop that he put it in.
Used rust-oleum for decades for lots of things doing just like you showed. We made a sort of kiln over to heat up casings in to paint to get rid of the moisture and oil. Reasonable low temperatures as to not effect the metallurgy of course. We liked using either yellow or white though as it made leaks from hydraulic pumps and motors or engine blocks really obvious.
I was wondering about the effect of heat from the engine would have on rustoleum but if Tony says it holds up I believe it.
Most standard paints are good for 250 degrees....
So if your engine is going to 250, you might wanna check your cooling system 😄
@@MrTheHillfolk Yeah, that makes sense the block shouldn't reach that but the heads might after the water pump stops.
I bake rustoeum onto small parts at 220 Fahrenheit, so I think it should handle the heat just fine
Oh Tony, you’ve been artist all your life.
This is a VERY MUCH NEEDED video to put out on the ol' tube! Thank you for this!
The reason the equipment paint and rustoleum holds up well, is that it's an acrylic enamel (which is oil base, not water - not the same as acrylic paint). A lot of rattle can products, even ones labeled "enamel" are lacquer.
Using the brush is definitely a great idea. It's like this - you drop some sauce on your pants, you can maybe lift it off. Until you push it in and rub it around, then you're not getting it off. Just make sure you don't leave a bristle behind.
This method of painting an engine is super solid and there's no doubt that it'll hold up for many years.
I've been remodeling houses for over 25 years and never used a spray painter. I've always thought a brush did a much better job. Quick tip if you are painting wood, drywall etc with a water based latex and you have a couple spots come through like crayon, grease or water stain. Just shoot those small areas with a little rustoleum spray paint and then paint over after dry. Saves from buying a bigger can of oil base paint or primer.
The Bob Ross of engine block painting!
Uncle Tony, I own a Fiat 500 Abarth, I tuned it and I deliver pizza in it. Knowing that Fiat bought Chrysler, I put a Mopar sticker on my little Fiat and boy I have had the time of my life. Those Mopars of all generations play around when they see that decal. Ilearned that my little car is a lot faster than I realized and some of those Mopars sre absolutely killer. Too much fun.
Before you peeps get your panties in a bunch, I own a proper Mopar. 2006 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 with the Hemi on Fox shocks, DiabloSport and too much to list.
I have learned so much from this channel the last couple years and I have applied things I learned and the way I think to my car, truck and motorcycle. I got bitching rides thanks to you UTG!!
If only I can get out of California to buy a proper older car but until then the disease is raging, manifesting in other ways
I brushed the whole underside of my 58 chevy during a frame off restoration. "Chassis Saver" quart worked great for that application. That stuff hardens with moisture in the air and literally welded a 2x4 to my concrete floor when some spilled. A 3 ft prybar wouldnt remove it. The 2x4 split apart and left a chunk stuck so bad its taken 5 years to wear it away. Ive used acetone and/or rubbing alcohol for cleaning before paint. I painted my 396bbc with "cast iron gray" engine paint.
I'm thinking it might be a cheap way to anchor floor joists to a concrete slab when you need to turn a garage into another room.
Yep I spilled some por 15 on a spot in the shop about 12-14 yrs ago right in a high traffic area.
Haha I bet it would buff up nice still 😄
@@MrTheHillfolk But wont stick on a car! lol
@@terrythomas790 concrete has really deep pores, so it sits in really nicely, for cars you need to really scuff it well
My dad and I spent a few years buying and selling old tractors 40 years ago. We would pick up a gallon of paint for ford, john deere, oliver, IH, MF, Allis Chalmers, you name it. We always used a brush. We also used a fine natural (camel, horse) hair brush. It held paint better and had fewer drips and runs, better coverage and the brush marks disappeared almost instantly. We even painted a 64 GMC dually that way on the body, rims and flatbed. We could get roughly 2 tractors per gallon. My dad wanted to try spraying it to save time. We used 4 times the paint and the results were not nearly as good. There is no such thing as overspray with a brush. Nothing popped like a 2 tone color scheme. I did this to a 235 stovebolt Chevy, chevy orange. Valve cover was aluminum gray with the orange Chevrolet script letters, the intake was the same color. The starter, generator, road draft tube, air cleaner, brackets and bolt heads were gloss black. The motor was my first rebuild and low on power, so when my brother wrecked his 69 Impala with a 327 and 2 speed powerglide, I dropped that into my 56 shortbed stepside pickup. That 327 looked much better under the hood.
Oil based paint is kind of "self-leveling" so the streaks disappear.
Can I ask what color for you used to get close to “ chevy orange”. Thanks
@@bradgarner2795 Its been 40+ years since I did that but if I recall, my local parts store had engine paint in quarts. What brand it was I have no idea. I know they also had ford blue, mopar blue and orange. Could it have been from their paint shop? possibly. I do remember buying the body color for the 56 pickup from a ppg dealer at the time after reading a hot rod magazine article on painting your own car and ppg was what they used on a 69 Z28. It wasn't lacquer though, I remember that.
@@ripvanrevs Painting outside in Texas heat made it a requirement because it set quickly. My dad always bought the cheap brushes and they always left streaks. His idea was use the brush and toss it rather than clean it. His way also required doing it for a second coat. As the one painting the tractor and giving it a single coat was my preference I went with a better brush and reused it. But yes you are right..
Effective, inexpensive, and simple to do. The holy trinity of DIY’ers everywhere.
Uncle Tony just turned into Bob Ross with the happy little coats and happy little engine numbers 👌
1. Love the Bob Ross flashback! Happy little cloud...
2. Acetone rocks! I've even had decent luck using it to melt the top layer of a crappy rattle can job to get a fresh (crappy rattle can) top coat to actually stick for a few years.
3. Has anyone tried POR 15 or Chassis Saver in high heat applications? It's almost indestructible on floor pans, frame rails, bathtubs and kitchen sinks, curious if anyone has tried it on a block.
Haha I was gonna bring up Bob Ross too
I've tried POR's POR-20 product, which is designed for high-heat applications (specifically exhaust manifolds) and it didn't go well. Despite following all of the directions and even having it professionally baked on, It peeled off of everything I tried with it within 2 years. Some years later I used up what I had of it lying around on some chassis stuff just to see what would happen and it all rusted again in about 3-4 years, despite being top coated in color too. My belief is the color layer is what was actually doing the work. All of that was on rust-belt driven daily rigs, so no baby treatment. I wanted to see how it would hold up before using it for anything important. A buddy of mine didn't believe me and did his CJ-7 fender well headers and side pipes with it and it lasted less than a year, also in daily driving. He didn't have it baked, but he heat cycled it and all of that the way the directions suggested.
Anyhow... I'm not a fan of the POR high-temp line based on my experience.
I do like POR, but lately I've had great luck with a 30$ husky detail gun and real automotive paint for an engine.
Lasts better then the trash engine paint spray bombs any day, but the por and Rust-Oleum is a second best.
I did all the suspension on my summer car about 10yrs back with por and Rust-Oleum.
2 coats of por ,2 coats of brush on Rust-Oleum, and 2 coats of spray bomb Rust-Oleum for a nice gloss.
And hopefully if the paint does chip,it'll just chip and still see the brush on paint.
@@TheBrokenLife I used Eastwood's stainless steel paint on some exhaust manifolds when I rebuilt a 302 for a 77 Mercury Cougar. I had shot blasted them & spayed brake clean on them & also used a torch to wick the moisture away before I painted them. I brushed it on as it said, touching up any scuffs and heat cycled it & I was surprised how long they looked good even after a bit of oil spilled on them it just burned away and they still looked good.
@@kcav5374 I've had other bad experiences with Eastwood so I'm not too inclined to try their other products. For exhaust stuff, these days I just buy stainless and call it a day.
Great tips for block painting, especially the heating block with Map gas! Totally makes sense. I never would have thought of this! Great tips for primer and paint as well. I will follow you instructions!
Just like pre baking to 400 when powdercoating.
@@DanEBoyd they bake after the powder is applied via static electric attraction.
Happy little engine block.
The Bob Ross of engines walks among us.
This was the first video I saw of this man, and my word, he is truly the best in CZcams, not only because of his knowledge or his skills, but because he shares his tricks and you are not afraid to follow along with what he says. You have my subscription and my respect mister Tony
You mentioned Tractor Supply. They have a brand of paint called "Majic", it can be thinned, hardener added and shot from a spray gun. If the directions are followed precisely, it gives an amazing finish.
Oh, you missed a spot.
I saw it. It was in the freeze plug
Tony , you’re right on with aerosol paints. They contain a higher percentage of thinner to allow them to spray. Higher solids content equals better performance and adhesion.
Back around 1990 in high school shop we painted a truck frame with brush on Rust-Oleum ,and we kids kind of laughed.
Well the teacher had the last laugh as I saw that truck at a show about 10yrs ago, and the frame still looked mint.
Uncle Tony aka The Bob Ross of engine painters. Happy red engine.
Another fantastic video, very informative. You're the only guy I've seen who shows how to actually prep a block and I never knew to do the torch trick! Rustoleum is a great paint. When you painted your block, I got serious Bob Ross relaxation vibes.
Hey brother , u have a good touch with the brush …. I’m inspired !!! …. Priming is smart , but the heating up tip is gold !!!!
Love the "Bob Ross" innuendo: "happy little engine-block" 😅
Yr HUMILITY IS GENUINELY GOODNESS
Never realized that a brush paint is way better for an engine block.
Thanks UTG for showing me a simple and effective way to do this.
I was involved rebuilding with a early Jaguar engine. She was so smooth and pretty. Come to find out that the Jag factory used body filler on the outside of the blocks to make them look so good.
Didn't know that.
on big castings like lathes and machine tools, a lot of filler is used also.
@@Prowbar yeah I'm pretty sure I see some Bondo on our Bridgeport 😄
@@MrTheHillfolk ya bet some places of the casting have like a 1/2" layer of Bondo haha
Its a sound and vibration deadner also
Here is an extra little tip for ya .If you put your can of paint can into some hot water and let the can get nice and warm it gives a better smoother finish ,less brush marks works on rattle cans too .I paint guitar bodies this way and you can't tell that they are brush painted .cheers from NZ ...
WOW! That simple!! Like watching a Bob Ross video on painting engine blocks, LOL.
In 2010 I had pulled down my old 69 c60. Stripped the cab , frame, engine. I live in Texas but found out I needed to be up in Colorado the following month to pick up a trailer. Short on funds but long on ingenuity I put it back together looking like it came from the factory. All the paint was rustolium equipment paint from local hardware store. It was all brushed on except the final coat. Did a light sand to get rid of brush strokes and runs then thined it a little and sprayed it. The paint is still on it solid if a bit faded from the sun.
The trick with the torch i learned from an old timer restoring old tractors. Have 2 farmalls I was doing at the same time as my truck one I used the torch trick on the was already done.
It has been 11 years and they are both used to pull hay wagons. The first one looks like nothing has ever been done to it and needed restoration after a couple of years. The one I prepped with the torch still has a solid paint job and only a couple of years old.
I build engines professionally and I agree that engine enamel really isn’t that great, comes off very easy unless you apply several cans. I gotta do what my boss wants but when I do my own personal engines I do it this way, cheaper and better.
This Rust-Oleum paint doesn't say it's heat resistant. But it works good?
@@ZERONEINNOVATIONS lmao it’s really house paint tbh
@@ZERONEINNOVATIONS its maximum temperature is within normal operating temperature of the engine (250f). If you are exceeding that temp, chances are your engine is overheating.
This dude knows his shit. I'll watch his videos unlike others wrenching with denny, rainman dude, etc. Oh vgg awesome. Half ass customs is doing a 39 Dodge ground up fu*in fantastic work he's doing on that. I've been in the business for only 27 years. Keep up the great work uncle tony!!!
Tony. Just saw a short video showing the moisture coming out of the block ironically. I would say with this preparation that the paint job would last. It’s not worth the time to paint the block and have it just peel off “looks good for a minute “ .You just saved a DYI person some grief. Nice videoUTG
I never thought about using the torch. Great idea!
OMG I NEEDED THIS, THANK YOU
Uncle Tony is the new Bob Ross. “Happy little engine block”
I’m trying to start wrenching on my 2006 GMC Sierra 5.3 with 307,780 miles. I think will be visiting this channel a lot
Can also use propane. I just tested it on a bare block I got back from machine shop. Incredible.
rustoleum hasn't been killed by the epa because it's a fish oil base. Takes about a month to fully harden. I like to spray it through a cheap harbor freight hvlp gun with Majic enamel hardener. Respirator is an absolute must if you use the enamel hardener. Works great on wheels. I've always wondered if it would hold up to engine heat, now I know! Great content as usual
That's whale oil, and last I checked, whales aren't fish, and Rust-Oleum hasn't had whale oil in it since whales became endangered. Rust-Oleum products no longer contain whale oil, instead using resins derived from alkyds, polyurethanes, epoxies, latex, etc. Evanston. (quote from manufacturer) The term, "fish oil" appears in answers about paint, but by "fish oil" they meant "whale oil".
"Happy little engine block " lol the bob ross of the car world
"I have no skill, I have no patience,,," Baloney, Tony, you have learned all your life lessons with skill and patience. You didn't get this good without those qualities.
Hi Tony, GREAT Video, I am an old automotive Machinist , engine builder and Body N paint/frame man and fully approve your methods, the mapp torch info is priceless.
Loved the video. Spent a few mornings this week in eastern Kentucky pulling the 390 out of my papaw's 67 galaxie and tommorow I'm headed home to Michigan with the top end and covers in my car with the intent to clean em up and come back down in a month with it all repainted and ready to reassemble. Only problem is I already picked up a couple rattle cans of Rust-Oleum engine paint 😅. I'll definitely be using some of these tips and maybe end up stashing the cans and picking up some brush on. Thanks for a wonderful video
What county in Eastern Ky,I am in Pike,got my old Jeep engine out, old paint stripped and cleaned up,was going to use Hi Heat rattle can and wasnt sure to use primer under spray can coat,I have changed my mind on the spray cans after this video and going to use the brush on Rustoleum on my jeep block,never thought about map torch on block,which makes sence,and a brush!
Although the torch trick definitely works, what you're actually seeing is the condensation caused by the torch itself. You'll see that if you hit an area a second time that you've already done which has cooled down a bit, that it will show the same effect once more. You can repeat this indefinitely. That said however, it is a very good indication of where you have burnt away all the residue.
Just beware that you don't burn through 6 canisters of gas because you think that oil keeps coming out. One pass is enough.
I like your focus on low cost and high quality.
I agree with you about Rustoleum - used since I was a kid and it lives up to its rep. Great video and useful advice!
That’s genius to use the torch before painting. I’m gonna try that on the next block or heads I paint. I’ve had good luck with the rattle cans so far. Rustoleum is the go to for me.
I tried it on the drywall I was going to paint and it didn't work out so well.
@@ripvanrevs 🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@ripvanrevs lol
Paintbrushing like Bob Ross on a happy Engineblock. this guy is so cool! Gretings from Germany! Your Videos are marvelous!
"Happy little engine " You're the Bob Ross of car engine painting! Nice tips. Thanks
I will definitely use this method on my next build. Great video!
I've had a rustoliem oil base paint job on a 2.3 for about 8 years. Its still on there still looks great!! I put some m.e.k. and penetrol in with it and get fantastic results with the same methods you used, you really cant beat rustoliem it is a great best kept secret!! The m.e.k. dries it quickly, penetrol helps with rust and helps it flow out.
There’s something satisfying about painting an engine block when you get done with it and it’s in the car you realize it was all worth it.
Marine Corps flag in the back. Semper Fi 🤘🤘🤘
You're channel rocks my man even being a GM guy!! Your knowledge is invaluable and always cross-make compatible! My next engine I do I will experiment with this method! I never even considered using a brush! Good call! Thanks!
About as basic as it gets and I still enjoyed watching it.😎👍
I’m glad I clicked this. The torch trick is really great ! Makes sense and I never would’ve thought of it.
I like it. Never thought to paint it with a brush. I always used a rattle can. I just learned something new. Thanks Tony!
I’m a rust-oleum guy to. I use it exclusively on my metal and other projects. That sunrise red is awesome; I use it on my steel fence posts, it doesn’t chip at all, and I use their primer before the finish coat. I’ve got some fence posts that I painted 22 years ago and it’s still great and it’s exposed to the weather of the Pacific Northwest.
Haha omg I did the complete suspension on my mk2 Jetta coupe in that color about 10yrs ago and it still looks mint.
2 coats of por 15 for a base 2 coats of brush on sunrise red , and 2 top coats from a spray can in that color for the gloss after a little sanding to remove any brush marks.
Shiny and still looks great!
@@MrTheHillfolk awesome
Absolutely love the quality of work you preformed. Brushing on rustoleum/ tremclad isn't that bad. The finish may not look as nice as a spray on but in areas like an engine block where you need durability and you need to push the paint into the pores of the cast iron I think brush on is definitely the way to go. I painted the interior of my gutted civic with a brush took a really long time but I did it that way because I couldn't afford to buy the spray cans up here in Canada it's close to $11 a rattle can. I didn't have a compressor at the time but I eventually bought one and painted the exterior of the car with an harbor freight hvlp spray gun
The Bob Ross of engine painters!
14:58 Tony is the Bob Ross of Engine Block Painting😁👍
I've contemplated using implement paint on my car. It's cheap. And if it can last for years on an old tractor, it should be able to last on my old Buick. Plus, you can wet sand and buff it. Or even put clear coat on it if you want. As long as it's completely cured and all the solvents are evaporated out.
Done this with trail rigs and daily drivers use the harder too for a better shine.
I love single stage paint, been using it since my local parts store only mixes 2-stage paints since the mid 80's.
I painted an old square body GMC in John Deere green and yellow 2 years ago. I used the TSC hardener in it. I keep It waxed and it still looks good. People notice and take pictures of it every where I go. Do the prep work right and you will get a decent looking job
Very nice! I'll have to try that next time. I am a fan of the Pontiac Blue block color myself. Good video Uncle Tony
Haha I did an engine up with the early Pontiac blue ,looked pretty sharp.
It was a lil 4 cylinder though.
Blue pan and block , semi gloss black head ,and blue valve cover and the rest of the accessories in a flat or semi gloss black.
Good times.
You can never be to old to learn new tricks, Old school knowledge is the best thing to learn.
Thank you
"...happy little casting numbers, let them pop and shine...' Great Bob Ross moment! Thanks for the video!
My dad taught me about warming the metal over 40 years ago, when I was a kid rebuilding and selling bicycles. I live in a humid climate near the ocean, so moisture returns very quickly. Spray paint wasn't as good in the 70s, but Rustoleum always gave great results. I'd spray on the primer while the metal was still warm, but not TOO hot. The ceramic engine paint they make now is phenomenal!
Uiyyyyú
@@hoamai2734 huh? English, please.
Nice! I found the Van Sickle (tractor paint) is also really tough (even in rattle can). If you mix that stuff and add the hardener (not required) it adds more gloss.
I used to paint all our little toys like go karts and mini bikes with them. That paint is tough!! Might see if it works good on motors
This dude is a genius.
thank you for sharing all your knowledge uncle tony. youve helped me learn soo much about old engines, and please keep sharing so we can all learn more!
This is why I love your videos man. Practical advice plus your experience. FYI, I have a 2000 Zinc yellow Mustang (it's 22 years old -- original owner here LOL) -- I blew some pretty decent money buying exact - matched caliper paint until by accident one day I discovered Rustoleum John Deere Yellow as simply a darker shade of the same color (pretty hard to match otherwise). On calipers -- it's perfect.
Bonus: Stuff is darn near indestructible. Can't say that about other products. Pennies on the dollar and a better choice. Who da thunk it?
Anyway, I'm going to be using your advice about the rusty metal primer and paint. Thanks again.
Thank you Tony for the great tips. I've been looking for (methods for dummies). And I've thought this would be the simplest method for me. This is for my 53 Ford tractor mostly in pieces. Engine been machined, all back together and rattle can primer. I've often thought of brush painting all the cast iron and I just don't think I can manage a spray gun nor have facilities. And "for dummies", I mean folks with limited experience like me. Thanks again.
Did you brush it own?
Great video and you are the Bob Ross of engine blocks 😃
Thanks Tony! 20 years old and I’m about to paint my first 350 small block. I’ve never had any mentors to show these tricks, so this is a massive help to me and my 79 el Camino project!
Tony, at the end of my Senior year in high school, our Industrial Arts teacher had all of us clean and re-paint all of the machines with a can of paint and by brush. The machines always looked great and the paint always looked thick and rich. With a brush, the bristles give the paint that little extra "nudge" to get into the pores of the cast iron. Thank you for all of your videos.
"nudge" 👍