Assembling A Short Block For The Home Engine Builder
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- čas přidán 8. 05. 2022
- We've covered all of the sub- assemblies for our 383 Mopar Slaghammer build, and now it's time to turn this pile of parts into an engine.
Here we cover bearings, assembly lube, setting the thrust bearing and installing pistons and rods.
#383 #MoparBigBlock #EngineAssembly #bearings #Mopar #NoNameNationals #gasser
#crankshaft #EngineRebuild #EngineOverhaul #EngineHowTo #shortblock #classiccar #musclecar #vintagecar #racecar
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So...listen,I love the fact that you're not jamming home security systems and hair care products down our throats.that being said I would like to see Uncle Tony have some kind of sponsorship from day O'Reilly's or something like that.I just think Tony deserves more income,also part of the deal would have to be honest about their products.
I appreciate the thought, but we get sponsorship offers literally every single day. We turn them down because we have far too much respect for our viewers time.
They have to endure the normal commercials (Which pay our bills) and we feel that it's just wrong to add paid endorsements on top of that.
You came here for information and possibly entertainment, and that is the only thing you will ever get from us.
@@UncleTonysGarage I don't know Tony, you made a hell of a pitch for Mary's Man Cream. Hell, I went to the store looking for it to cure a burning itch I didn't realize I had!
@@UncleTonysGarage And you guys don't push the merch hard at all. I'd have a retail store at the shop and sell anything that I could put a UTG logo on and every color too.
Tony's no schill lets keep it that way!
@@jasonfalk7696 Glad I wasn't the only one 😂
Om 49 years old ive ben building engines since i was 16 .. i help ppl out when i can and show them how to do different things … when i explain something to ppl i also tell them why and the reasoning behind it .. i notice you do the same thing … its a big help .. probably more than mst ppl realize !!!! Keep it up !!!
“It’s a happy little crankshaft.” The Bob Ross of engine building 😊
Where was CZcams 44 years ago when I needed them. This is the stuff of champions! 😁
Hi Tony, thanks for another great video! As an engineer, I can tell you that the majority of torque applied to fasteners is consumed overcoming friction between the threads and under the bolt head. If we can lower the friction, the clamp load to hold parts together will increase. Clamp load is the force that will keep the mains and rods in place. We never want the caps to separate during operation from a clamp load that is too low. The best practice is to use a 30 weight oil on the main and rod bolt threads, AND, the same oil or assembly lube under the screw head. The majoity of friction is under the bolt head. This approach will sigificantly increase clamp load to prevent gapping. Measure the stretch on a connecting rod bolt with dry threads versus lubricated, and you'll find the stretch will longer with lubed threads indicating more clamp load. To illustrate the opposite, let's say one of the bolts was partially cross-threaded which is the same as high thread friction. If the majority of torque is used to overcome the crossed threads, then there's going to be minimal clamp load. The torque wrench will click off, but there's hardly any clamp load holding the parts together, which is bad! Always use an oil on bolt threads and under bolt heads for more consistent and higher resultant clamp loads. This is particularly important on head bolts too!
I use APR bolt install lube
@@randyoehlert5045 That’s even better, especially for head bolts. The oil on the bolt threads may wick into the head gasket.
Great comment. I've never thought of bolt head friction consuming torque.
Tony is frikkin awesome....if he taught shop in high school we would have a nation of hot rodders...thank you Tony, for sharing!
I work in a machine shop and just found this channel this morning, great stuff.
Warning: If you use a Moly based high pressure assembly lube DO NOT freak out your engine oil will be full of gray clouds of Moly but it’s normal. It may take 3-4 oil changes to flush all the Moly out. Don’t freak out! 👍
I cote that on everything and get it nice and hot then change the oil a few times.
Major heart attack vibes from 40 years ago.
If you have a magnetic drain plug you will even find out that it is slightly magnetic and will have a glob of moly sludge on the magnet as well for a few oil changes.
I have always used motor oil in an old fashioned squirt can. Then pre-crank it with no plugs to pump oil through it. Never have used pre-lube junk.
@@markjohnson9495 I used the moly lube on flat tappet cams and lifters, not much else. Bearings always get 20w50 out of a squirt can.
Tony,
Tim here, SO glad your using ALL the methods i was whining about on the Jet assembly.......i dunno what all happened there, all i know is your doing ALL the attention to detail things i do when i assemble a bottom end......GREAT stuff for the novice, or intermediate engine guy, BOTH me and you have been doin this a long time, but THIS vid speaks of the things that ALL engine builders need to do!!....TY SIR!!......another super high quality tech vid from the UTG camp.....LOVE IT BROTHER!!...God Speed on the fire up, when u get there.....
Hey I watched this today
And I could hear things clang and click and even hear everything you were trying to teach
( with out a Screaming, Screeching,howling Guitar or banging drums )
Believe me I like music
But I am not a 12 year old who needs a band to help me stay my attention for more tan 15 seconds at a whack
YOU ARE A GREAT TEACHER and a breathe of fresh air
Thanks much uncle Tony
So glad I recently found your channel on CZcams
Appreciate all your videos Uncle Tony
amen
👍👍👍
Tony, your ability to talk and explain what you are doing while you are doing it has improved immensely since the Stunt Carb days! Well Done, Grasshopper!
I miss the days when he squirted everything with gas and smoked a cigarette.
I have not seen anyone using a speed wrench in ages. Nice, you can feel any resistance in the bolt threads going in like Tony said. When I was 16 in 1973, I got an inexpensive tool set from my parents for my birthday. It had a speed wrench in it. Old gearhead in the neighborhood taught me how to repair my own junk. I`m 65 now, tool kit is long gone, but I STILL have that speed wrench. Socket lock ball is gone but I still use it. Piece of electric tape on end holds sockets.
I've always used them since my first engine too, precisely for the reason Uncle Tony explained.
That's an old friend cause that was the year I was born 😁
I love doing assembly with a speed wrench. It just seems right.
@@grumpycarlsworld same age and also use the speed wrench I received in a socket set from my parents when I was 16. Good parents we had.
Brilliant ,you take me back 50yrs to my apprenticeship my tutor worked exactly like you except he was always singing.
i prefer motor oil because you can feel it more if stuff is binding, a lot of assembly lubes are ultra thick and makes it hard to turn the crank by hand
In school the teacher taught us with using a trigger type oil can. Thats the first thing I bough for working on motorcycles and doing top ends. No assembly lube, oil the cylinder / cylinders, wipe them down, give the rings on the piston a shot before installing them.
Those blue ring compressors, decades ago I got one of the worst cuts on my finger from one. I don't even know how it happened but it was deep and a clean slice. Blood didn't make good assembly lube.
Visiting the pit area of top fuel after a run is just as much a show as the cars making their run. Quite amazing to watch how the crew works around one another.
Great job Uncle Tony, your videos refresh my attention. Wrench for a living 40+ yrs, Helps me regain confidence on classic stuff that learned as a kid yrs.before I could legally drive.
These are great tips for a home engine builder. Thanks for sharing the tips and tricks. It really is helpful hearing from someone as experienced as you!
Great video. instructional with commentary. great balance.. some people talk too much. Perfect Tony!
Loved this video!!
Feels good to watch this channel. Just like shop class, about 50 years ago
Your experience in all these years is a great gift to us home assembly rookies
.
another tip might be to put the cam in first so you can reach in there without the crank in your way but obviously it can be done after the crank is in it's just easier to do it first!
This is the way I do it!
So easy to put in the cam when the back of the engine is sitting on some 2x4s and then it goes down smoothly without nicking the bearings. But I never see anyone else doing it that way. I made a install tool from 3 long bolts and about 3 inches of PVC pipe. Screw 2 bolts in and set the pipe in, then add the 3rd bolt. Cheap and EZ.
I was going to post the same thing--like if you have a Buick 350, you basically have to put the cam in first since there's so little room in the crankcase.
@@knutbjornlarsen4435 Jesus Christ! it's not that hard to install a cam after the crank! all I was just saying it's easier to put it in before the crank but it definitely doesn't require an entire fixture and stand made out of PVC and 2x4s and all sorts of other material! if you put the crank in first all you got to do is thread a bolt into the end of the cam and slide it in people get all worried damaging cam bearings but unless you're smacking it in with a hammer you're not going to cause any damage just go slow!
Great stuff. Thank you! My nephews get upset with me because I never use the air gun. I tell them, "Air,breaks things." They recently learned that when they broke a hard-to-find part inside a transmission they were working on. Bummer.
Passing on your life’s knowledge to so many people. Can’t get this stuff anywhere else. Thanks Tony.
He is a true master at his craft. Such wisdom. Flip those pistons and move them over. Motor Trend can suck it
On hot exhaust pipe
Yeah, let's believe a guy working out of a storage shed over a guy who's been running dynos for 50 years.
Been looking forward to this build. It's great you're going to show it step by step
Same here!
Set them bolts on a paper towel or pan to spray em, keep the floor from getting slick. 😉 Never thought I'd ever see Tony do something that I could make a recommendation to improve. 🤣
Dipping cups work best to cut down on the messy floor.
I know. I spray stuff into the trash can. I keep the floor super clean.
using a dipping cup is a good idea, along with a tray mounted on the legs of the engine stand to catch things. Check out coffee travel mug mounts, you can probably find a cheap "beer holder" that lets you clamp a dip cup to the engine block bolt holes or the engine stand so you aren't walking back and forth from the table.
Thank you for refreshing my memory. The only complete rebuild that I've ever did was a 304 AMC. That was 30 years ago. All the knowledge to do this I got from the factory's repair manual. Did not only teach me to get it right but also thought me more English than my whole school time. Now I have to do a Japanese V8 and I hope I can rescue it.
This could be an asmr video. Nice relaxing big block mopar build.
The best thing i did when i started building more engines (subarus) was to buy a piston ring compressor that was specifically designed for the size bores used. its got a super thick bottom so you can't score the deck of the block. Not as much of an issue when you're using cast iron, but when you're working with aluminum you can save yourself a lot of heartache
Geez, nothing more beautiful than a nice old-school rebuild. Makes me hungry.
Thank you so much for this video I'm 59 and I want to build my first engine!!!
Learning a ton from this series 👍🏼👍🏼. Thanks Tony
I use a speed wrench especially to assemble engines. If you don't know how to use one, get better at it. Do not use air or power tools.
power for disassembly hand for assembly
I’ll use whatever I want…
power/air tools are for the young, "instant gratification" crowd
@@Videoswithsoarin Yea, don't do that on the heads of an aluminum block V-8 Benz engine, they have Helicoils in them from the factory so if you ever have to take the headbolts loose/out use a breaker bar to loosen them first then you can use an electric drill, if you do it with an impact, neumatic or electric, it will rip out those helicoils and possibly ruin the block. Not worth the risk.
@@albertgaspar627 hey, I am young and I like wrenches... I don't do a ton of wrenching because I am a carpenter but...
Wish you where my auto shop teacher back in the days of high school tech.
You do things exactly how my dad taught me! You know your shit
Great video Tony. I've been building engines for over 50 years and there's one step I do that's different from your assembly instructions. I install the cam first, or at least put it in the block and remove it to make sure it can be installed. More than once I had a camm that didn't want to fit into the cam bearing. Sometimes it's just a burr on the edge of the bearing that can easily be cleaned up. This can be a real pain in the ass if you encounter this after crank is in. Just what I do, not criticizing your approach to assembly.
That’s a great idea, thanks 🙏
This guy is a bad ass…love his teaching..!
I love your perfect teaching. You have helped me a lot.
Thanks for sharing this
The LT1 in my 1996 Buick Roadmaster sedan is about to turn over 170k miles. And although it still seems to be running strong. I think I'm gonna have to tear it down and give it a cheap as possible refresh. Unfortunately for the LT1 nothing is cheap. But I want to make sure that it continues to run for another 170k miles. So I'm gonna have to bite the bullet and do it. Definitely not gonna buy anything unless it's necessary. Not trying to build a race engine. But I'll probably do some home porting and anything else free to gain any performance. But I can't afford to do anything more than I absolutely have to. I'll definitely be using all the tricks I've learned from your channel. Thanks Uncle Tony
Rings, bearings, seals and a valve job? I think roadmaster, I think 1939: you could build one for grandma or a gangster - didn't matter.
I did just that, even though the L67 (Series II 3800 supercharged) in my 2000 GTP was running just fine at 195k miles, (No strange noises, no leaks, and had great power) I decided to do a stock rebuild. Even though I thought it was running just fine, I found that all was not fine, as every exhaust valve was leaking compression, not a lot, but they still leaked when I filled the combustion chamber with mineral spirits, the intakes valves where just fine, no leaks, but every exhaust valve leaked a little. I also had four pushrods wearing where they contact the rocker arm, and the connecting rod bearings had evidence of spark knock. Everything else was in great shape inside the engine. I had a machine shop clean the block, install cam bearings, and hone the cylinders for new rings, and also had them do a minor valve job using my original valves and springs, they did have to machine the heads flat however. I installed new timing chain, oil pump gears, new pushrods, and new rocker arms from ZZP, I reused the original camshaft and roller lifters as they had NO wear on them and were still in great shape. Now the engine runs better than ever!
Nothing is cheap anymore. Everything is becoming crazy expensive from parts to lubes…
Dude great work man. Before there was the interweb their was you. You are legend. The info you give is amazing. Thank you for sharing the info. Cause now people are paying millions for your info. You are my friend a legend
I wish I could work with these guy for some time.
Ive put the thrust bearings in first, but yeah every time you tighten the main cap bolts , turn the crank over same deal with the rod bolts, mocking up the big ends on the rods with the crank out is a good idea too
Would u leave thrust bearing lose to seat on newer hemi engine as well ?
@@moparlif3528 im a ford guy, the deal is to keep crank end play under 6 thou
Very cool Tony. I'm not the handiest tool in the shed & having never built an engine at 66 I know I know I never will, but if I was 20 years younger, I wouldn't be as afraid to try by watching you explain everything so well. Can't wait to see the upcoming episodes. Be well.
UTG, broke that down that A kid could understand ..Awesome
"I'll get to that in a second." When it comes to building suspense you could give Alfred Hitchcock a run for the money!
On assembly I use the thick Vaseline.
Be using it since 1977-78. Never had any problems.
Pistons reversed... said to do it in the old Direct Connection books, so I did it. Did I hear any more piston slap? Nope. Not over the cam lope, exhaust, etc.
Time to get my 351w to the machine shop.. good stuff Tony..
Great video. I was surprised you didn't torque the mains and check the crankshaft end play. I take it that it's never been an issue. I like the way you squared up the thrust bearing and the other little tips in this video. Thanks for sharing.
Before assembly,I like to spray everything with Pledge. It makes everything lemony fresh.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge, i'm glad that i'm learning from a master.
I've worked in race engine shops & while I saw differences in what Tony does I saw nothing that scared me.
Right.
Overall ,it'll be fine.
I made a preluber from a bug sprayer and it works great, just get the oil warm in the nuker first and it flows faster.
Chunk the pressure sender back in and hit the key.
Better then doing the old oil pump spinny thing with a drill and fiddlef**king around re-timing the distributor wasting time while oil runs off. 😁
I will name names! that guy from REAL STREET PERFORMANCE made a video about putting oil underneath the main bearings! never have I heard of doing that and I've never done that, it makes no sense! it just seems as Tony would say "counterintuitive" I would call it counterproductive but Ive taking engines apart with 200,000+ miles on them and seen absolutely no oil under the bearings and sometimes have a hard time removing them because there's no oil under them which is a good thing!
I always thought that it could possibly contribute to a spun bearing, so I always made sure they were cleaned with alcohol or brakeclean. And I'm probably overly anal, but always used a lead mallet to seat thrust bearing. Excellent video, UTG rocks.
Lol oils surface tension is why they’re stuck, are you riterded? When you put oil behind them and then tighten them down they aren’t sitting right tight to the block iron initially and will cause your allowance to be too tight. You can also end up with junk under there. Oil definitely gets behind them in the honing cross hatches.
Jay builds 2000+hp 6 cylinders so I wouldn’t argue with his proven results. But everyone has there own preferences.
10:33 you can see small metal shavings come out of the bolt on the right... lol
Your the man UTG ! This will help alot of ppl including myself thank you
One of the best parts of CZcams, thanks UT.
Preluber from a 15$ bug sprayer and some hose and fittings to go in the oil pressure sender hole and you're good to go,no distributor futzing around required.
Now look what you've gone and done Tony...now I want to try building an engine...
You've made home garage mechanics very interesting and within reach. 👍 👍
Federal Mogul 2 piece seals say to offset the seal in their installation instructions, David Vizards chevy book has it in it also..either way I think it is more important to dab the ends with silicone when fitting them.
i use super glue on the ends works great
Think of it this way, do you offset the main and rod bearings so the two bearing halves aren't meeting at the cap joint? I think the purpose of the offset dates back to the rope wick main seal. It provided an avenue for oil to follow since it was not an engineered fit. It relied on the assembler/mechanic to cut the seal to fit. If it was just a bit loose it would leak. By rotating the seal it minimized the opportunity to follow that joint. With an actual oil seal, Tony's right, they will fit tight and better in the seal cap flush with the block. That element of lack off seal integrity, is no longer a factor.
I like this man..very cool
Tony, when you lifted that crank, even my old knees creaked and groaned.
One of my favorite channels!!!
This video and every one I have seen are practical down to earth and no BS videos. They are very informative and in practical terms . KEEP making those videos I enjoy watching
AWESOME UT....MOPAR 4 EVER.
A couple things: I will always torque my crank before pistons, so you can check ease of spin. AND - You should have mentioned the BB Dodge has the little hole to give some oil to the opposite piston, whereas Chevy doesn't. Dodge you'd have to turn the pistons on the rods to install backwards, but Chevy doesn't matter.
8:20 "Do it the way God intended..." I use that line a lot myself, LOL.
Dude, got into your stuff when I was working on 70s, 80s Mopar 225s, 318s and 360s. Now I'm still hooked and only working on old Chevrolets.
I like to do a final cleaning / wipe down of cylinder bores or any critical surface with regular ole bleached coffee filters with a dose of ATF on them. seems like the coffee filters are cheap, leave behind zero lint etc and high detergent ATF will remove or pull out the smallest of honing grit or any minute particles. When the coffee filter comes out clean and white you can see just how clean the bores are. If you don't want any ATF left behind the coffee filters will get that last bit out.
Pissed in pants=piston pants. I like it
I enjoy putting engines together. I haven't gotten to do it for over a decade now because I just haven't needed too. This makes me want to rip one out and tear it apart just to have fun putting it back together again! I always have problems with the rings popping out of those compressors just as it is going into the block.
Yeah I haven't been in a car engine for a few years myself ,but futzed with a few smaller air cooled ones like a Briggs 20hp v twin.
Kinda funny how much they sound like a Harley with open pipes for a test run.
And it's smaller ,the whole thing fits in a 5 gallon pail almost 😂
You should send a Speed Handel to Nicks Garage because I never saw him use one it drove me nuts seeing him struggle with a ratchet and extension when he could be using a Speed Handle. You are almost assembling that engine exactly as I was taught many many years ago and it always worked for me.I could sort out missed matched caps with my finger nail and have done it for customers several times because your finger nail will always tell you that the parting lines don't match up or they do match. It always works. Reverse offset pins seem to rev up easier if you don't mind pistons clacking. Racing pistons are centered and not offset for a reason, Power! .
When I was in school for my apprenticeship I had the opportunity to purchace a set of alluminum rod guides built in the schools machine shop for 10 bucks. Best money spent on tools.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Great builders have attention to DETAIL!
I love ya Tony, I really do. And like 99.99% of the stuff ya do I'm all on board. I dont care what ya do in your own engines, but im definitely calling massive bullshit on the piston flipping deal making any power. Say what you want about the TV guys, but until one of the others does a flip and does a back to back dyno test and shows power, nobody on the planet should just believe it, regardless of whose mouth the info came out of.
Good job ones again by showing telling, learning I am thanks again keep up the good work see ya next time see ya bye.
Speed handle, yeah! Recently, guys at work were laughing at my speed handle. They said it was an outdated tool. No, it's a very useful tool!
Thanks for the info, 1st I have heard about backwards pistons.
I have never turned a seal for that exact reason and I’m glad someone has said it
old guy taught me a trick, use Lucas oil for assembly lube. Wayyyy cheaper than the special stuff and it sticks just as good if not better!
I was told not to do that because it's too thick and could possibly cause a bearing to spin on the first startup
I just fired up my Pontiac 400 that I converted to a 461 Stroker. I followed so many of your tips from other videos that I felt comfortable tackling a rebuild. I may have watched some other channels too :) I used the assembly lube and then primed the engine with a primer tool because the engine had sat several months since assembly. I upgraded to hydraulic roller lifters, so thought it best to make sure they had some oil as well as up through the rods to the top. Novice builder, so I did tons of double-checking as I went just to make sure I didn't miss anything. Thanks for all the tips and encouragement you provide in every video!
I use a hose clamp around the bottom of the ring compressor flush (as near as) with the deck to keep the coil tight, prevents any chance of it getting loose and a ring getting upward force if it gets squeezed. Love this channel !
My first time here...first video....amazing.....I have watched a few assembly videos now but this one gives me the confidence to do it.....
Heard about you from peg..wish i picked you up sooner...good job explaining the work Tony. Thankyou.
I could watch Tony talk and build engines all day long.
Luecus makes the best assembly lube thats easy to find!
Hey Tony, they say timing is everything just got the last of my parts to build my desoto 330 short block and now I see your video. I've built chevys and fords but this will be my first early hemi. Watching you makes me wish you were a little closer to me. I'm in thorn hill tn. But it's all good! Thanks for the refresher course.
Thank you for the rear main seal crush talk. I have never offset a seal. Never had an issue.
Got a lot out of that ! Every step and every point you made makes total sense ! Very nice job on Explaining the process and your reasons for doing it your way works Great !! Bean to many years for me But you made it seam like it was just yesterday! Thank you
This content is Golden...
Wish you were Australian and working on our Aussie GM motors 253/304/308😎🤣Love You Work Mate🇦🇺👍
You are an artist! Thank you Tony, this helps me a lot during my first V8 rebuild.
I offset the pistons in my 273 HighPo back in 1970. It ran like a raped ape! It was in a 65 Dart and the 383 Roadrunners I raced/beat thought is was a 340! I told them to check the casting. I was 18 and very proud of my first rebuild. Raced 340's in Super Stock for many years after that.
You remind me so much my uncle Paul.
When the glasses were on, shit was getting serious
Your so right about the rear seal...drives me insane when ppl say to offset it lol
Ah man I’m 34 I must be a old guy now love my speed wrench haha
Wow ! I did that job on a Lincoln 430 back in '67...that was 55 YEARS AGO ! Brought back memories as if it was yesterday...thanks Tony and I agree with your build methods.
I’m going to have to research this more and watch more videos that cover this to figure out what’s going on. I know you can check the cam grind to make sure it matches up with what’s ordered. I’m not sure which cam I’d need in the first place before ever checking the installation.
Guess I call the cam company and tell them what I’m going to use the car for and then they will give me an idea of a combination grind which will be best.
I understand the degree of cam needs to be set at the right place. Just don’t know how anyone would do that with a regular timing chain assembly. Seems like you would need an adjustable system. Thanks again for the info. Great and knowledgeable.