Silicone Mold Making: JEWELERS CUT
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- čas přidán 21. 08. 2024
- This silicone mold making tutorial explains how to cut open a silicone mold using a jewelers cut - mold making for resin, mold making silicone rubber, mold making techniques. Here are some links to some of the materials and tools in the video:
Mold Star 15 Silicone (pint kit): amzn.to/2NhaahA
Scapel with Blades: amzn.to/2xbMfFv
6.5 inch G.S. Weitlaner Retractor: amzn.to/2GuIPCT
4.5 inch G.S. Weitlaner Retractor: amzn.to/2YwtEmW
Smooth-Cast 300, Casting Resin (pint kit): amzn.to/2ITXHME
Smooth-Cast 300, Casting Resin (gallon kit): amzn.to/2RECY2c
*as an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases :)
And links to the companion videos in this series “How to Make a One Piece Silicone Block Mold and Cast Resin”
Making the Mold Box: • How to Make a Mold Box...
steveferrera.com/
/ steveferrera - Jak na to + styl
This is one of the hardest confusing way to do a casting thanks for the video tho
Thank you so much for such a clear and concise demonstration, I've tried a few times to try this technique but could never get a decent result... I really think what I've learnt here is really going to help!
awesome! It takes a bit of practice
@@SteveFerrera it seems silly now but I was cutting into the mold instead of starting in the center and cutting out. The "stab in and cut up" thing blew my little mind 😅
The tip on using the retractors to open the mold has changed my life lol
right on !
Glad to see those razor blades being put to good use! Always good to see what's become of all the bicycles and barbecues I've sold for scrap at the metal yards over the years.
first demolding vid ive seen that actually shows the retractor.
:)
Where was this video before I totally torn up my mold....this is really helpful!!!
:)
This was super helpful! Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you so much!! Very useful video!!
I notice that you are using a number 11 scalpel blade, it is somewhat difficult to push a straight blade through a mold rubber with that hardness and thickness . The next time you are cutting a mold that is that thick, try using a number 12 scalpel blade. It seems to be easier to pull a curved blade through the rubber and gives you a little better control. You can also make the “jewelers cut” easier by rocking the knife handle in your hand. Then use the straight blades for reaching in and making fine cuts in the hard to reach spots.
I like these tips :) thanks!
This is an awesome super helpful video! Thank you!
Thanks for watching :)
Awesome. Thanks so much
Thanks for watching :)
Awesome - thanks so much - very helpful
Which do you find is easier to work with, this style or a two part mold? I’m making a super simple 5 inch figure, no details. I’ll add details with magic sculpt.
depends on the figure. About 75% of my molds are two part- usually they have arms or legs or a bit more detail, so a two part gives me more control over the parting line. But if it's a really simple shape, I'll do a one piece and cut it. Working on a video now that does a deep dive into how I made this mold. Sat tuned.... :) And then will eventually do a two part deep dive.
@@SteveFerrera thank you! That helps me BIG time🤗
Thanks for this i’m recasting my 3d prints into concrete!
How about using your foam in board mold box to hold the mold as you put the rubber bands around?
prob a good idea. I always use a bunch of bands with little tension- so it's pretty safe.
Can you dye the resin before you pour it into the mold?
You can dye resin before hand, depending on the brand there are different steps. I use Smooth On products and my local rep advised me to dye my part B, usually I will put in 20 to 25 drops of black in the gallon jug, this gets me solid grey parts instead of white.
@@Thegoodneighbor_ thank you!
@@FlummoxTheMagnificent of course, happy crafting!
This was very helpful. Thank you. I'm curious to know why you chose a 15 hardness. I thought for cut block molds, harder is better.
sometimes if there's a ton of detail and weird undercuts the softer will pull out easier :)
Why would i still be getting an ugly seam line on my pours after cutting the silicone?
sometimes the halves can shift around- especially if it's not a thick mold. I often get subtle lines even on super clean molds
does thickness of the molder matters? i mean is there any rule of thumb from the figure from the walls? im thinking of having a thin wall probably 1.5 inch, eniugh not to wiggle? and easy enough to cut and save resources?
That's about what i do for my small to small-medium pieces- sometimes I go bigger for the bigger stuff- especially if there's a large solid volume in there.
Maybe put a glue gun line on the wall of the mold that follows the cut line you plan to use.
:) yep- I just draw one on with a sharpie -
Where did you get the retractors? They are ideal for a molder without a friend available.
Do a web search on the term "surgical retractors." You'll see tons of them. They come in all sizes from tiny (think "inside the eyeball") to gigantic (think "large animal veterinary medicine"). And all different shapes. You probably don't need ultra-high grade instruments. These go for $10 on Amazon, and look like the ones in the video: DDP WEITLANER Retractor New SURGI Instrument 6½" Blunt. Sure wish I had watched this video a week ago - before I did my first mold. Oh well.
I put a link in on the video's description :)
Does anyone know what type of silicone mold I should use for a sunglasses mold?
this would work- but for small thin stuff- injection molds work best
Is there a reason you don't use a clay dam or other flange type with keys & a mother mold?
do you mean like a two part mold? The block of silicone is solid enough where it doesn't need a mother mold. I'm working on a video now that shows how I made the mold. Maybe that will answer some questions. If the piece is a simple one, a one piece mold is pretty easy, and will always create a tight seal because it was all one piece before I cut it- so faster to make and less clean up than a two part I'd say.
@@SteveFerrera ... yes that's what I was thinking. Please don't misunderstand me, I'm not finding fault I am just curious! I'm often required to mold original art for bronze investment and your process is considerably different than ours. I'm super happy I found your work! It's amazing.
@@sbalger I used to work at a foundry :) Yes, it's a bit different. You might be using polyurethane rubber - a thin layer with a mother mold. The pieces I'm doing are much smaller, so I can get away with a smaller solid mold. And pouring resin in them is a bit easier than wax. I just pour and let it set up- no need to slosh the wax around to get a hollow wax. Definitely watch my next video. I get into all the little details of making this mold. Cheers!
Weitlaner retractors are still used in human surgery. I’d get knock offs, if I were buying new.
im a tool nerd- need the real thing :)
@@SteveFerrera or get the 'slightly used' versions that we toss from the OR. BTW, there are two styles - the one's you have are blunt but there are also sharp (ie pointed) that will grab into the rubber more aggresively.
are you tryina be that crafsman or is he tryina be you?
Crafsman was the inspiration for the homeless wizard
@@SteveFerrera very good