Making a silicone mould using the brush-on technique
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- čas přidán 15. 12. 2020
- Check our podcast: battleswithbitsofrubber.com/
After you’ve taken a lifecast of a performer, you have a solid copy of their face.
This is presumably an accurate copy which has recorded the surface of their anatomy as true as is possible. Are we to then leap straight to the joyous distraction of making your modifications - making the nose bigger, changing the chin, adding a wound or a scar, or completely remodelling their face to change them entirely?
It is worth taking a moment to recall this original cast you took of the performer is a precious object - it is the only one you have and presumably it was gained at great cost. Drop it and we’ve had it! Now you have this perfect head shape, it is time to make a master mould (usually in silicone) to allow copies to be made.
Now we can produce multiple versions in a harder plaster for sculpts to be floated/separated off at a later date or make lightweight versions for attaching finished appliances to for painting or shipping (air freight is rather expensive, you know!). Three people can sculpt different appliances on the same nose simultaneously. A copy can be sent to the performer as a gift, and we could even test makeups by applying to a copy of the head without the cost of booking the performer to thrash out paint schemes and best approach.
This video takes a look at one way to make a master mould. Obviously, techniques vary and no two moulds get made the exact same way so I present to you here a typical process I would use for a master mould in silicone.
Thanks for watching!
Check our podcast: battleswithbitsofrubber.com/ - Jak na to + styl
I'm self taught with years of practical experience, and I've decided recently to pursue it on a stronger level, and in all the videos I've seen since I've started this, this one is probably the absolute best one. Also that cinematography was excellent so it was easy on the eyes. Thank you so much.
Detail of instructions are superior to anything I have seen before.
Oh, this is awesome! I rarely have patience to go through a full length vid but this one is top! Thank you!
Thank you Stuart, I thoroughly enjoyed watching this tutorial. It was beautifully presented, clear and concise. Thanks again !
This is brilliant. All i wanted to know in one video. I love it.
Excellent tutorial!
Learned many tips and tricks that I've never seen, esp using your hands. Very informative thank you
The most perfect molde i ever saw... wonderful job
Incredibly informative !!
Thank you for this tutorial!
brilliant tutorial sir
Very good video! Thanks!
Amazing as always.
Perfect, thank you!!!
Definitely useful Stuart thank you :)
Nice tutorial ! always cool to compare techniques by different artists , doing the same thing , cause theses ALWAYS bits of this & that from each . :D thanks
Beautiful work! Thank you for sharing. To avoid air bubbles in the first layer of silicone I use to seal the plaster cast with primer, the one used before painting a drywall.
Thanks. Yes indeed, a wise investment of time it would appear.
Amazing video.
Thanks for the level of detail/info and time taken, very helpful and exactly what i was looking for.
Much appreciated,
Awesome. I appreciate you checking it out!
Ooooohhhh I love the mixing with the hands!! ❤
It's the best way!
Great video!
Brilliantly explained, thank you so much. You are my hero. Huge massive hugs.
Wow, thank you!
This was a wonderful showcase and tutorial, thank you so much, this will definitely help me as i will be casting my arm and making a mould =)
Awesome. Thanks for watching and glad it could help. Get in touch if you get stuck
Very comprehensive video.
Your channel is awesome, for sure has been a big part of my learning .
Ah, Thank you so much.
@@stuartbray thank YOU! 😁
The Best one yet
Really interesting and well explained thanks
Thank you
Thanks for the video. Do you do one that would apply to a bust (ie not just a half head, but a two part mould of a full head with a flat base at bottom end of neck)? Most of the techniques, I'm guessing, would be the same? Probably have some others available on CZcams, but I like your presentation - easy to follow, good explanation of why you're doing the things you do, and a pleasant, non-grating accent (not that I've got anything against American accents and style of presenting...).
Amazing video😮
Me encanto, muchas gracias 😮😮😮😮😊
Brilliant Stuff!
Thanks! I will make more soon. It's been a busy year making stuff for shows but things are slowing down so I can make tutorials again. Been making digital moulds too which is helping me in classes, explaining processes etc.
Thank you so much
This is beautiful to watch. 🙂
Thanks, Gina. I really enjoyed making this video too.
спасибо, мастер!
such an amazing video
This is a very satisfying video.
"unfortunately it's called a flange" 😦
You crack me up 🤣
Nice job; I always appreciate a well made mold. A spray-on shellac sealer for the plaster helps eliminate out-gassing bubbles. Still, I'd much prefer to deal with inclusions on a cast than occlusions.
This may be 2 yrs old but I loved this! Please bring more thorough breakdowns of your process. Possibly about the process of making silicone masks?? 😊
Keep up the great work!
I shall do more. The issue is making videos is a side hustle for fun, my main job is working on movies and that industry has gone crazy these last couple of years. I shall do more and I really appreciate your attention and kind words.
@@stuartbray That is wonderful! I hope your career continues to bring you great opportunities! Making SFX movie magic also sounds like a great series of CZcams videos also. Have a good holiday Stuart. I am looking forward to future videos featured on your channel. Notifications activated.
Best tutorial video
regarding your air bubbles issue - it may be due to varying temperatures. One often gets this when varnishing classic yachts' teak, if one starts too early in the morning: you need to wait until it has warmed up and stabilised temperature-wise, with the aim for it to be if anything COOLING after the varnish is applied. This stops the substrate from gassing, as the cooling draws anything into the substrate, rather than pushing it out. So if possible I would try to warm the object up slightly, let it stabalise a bit above the ambient/room temperature, and then the gassing/bubbling will (hopefully) be minimised as the coating sets.
This was fantastic, and I liked the fact that you said you had to add more plaster before the original coat completely dried. Plaster will not stick correctly to completely dried plaster. The odd thing is as a house painter it worked when repairing a wall. However, you had to take a water bottle and saturate the dried plaster before adding a new layer on top..
Indeed. The stresses a mould will endure will test adhesion between layers. I understand using acrylic mediums in addition to water can aid adhesion but for all that, quickly applied layers are the best way to ensure a bond. Having an assistant mixing uo the next layer before the previous has set is sensible to help ensure a swift mould with bonded layers that will remain intact when twitted with levers when opened.
Thank you Stuart for your aesthetically pleasing tutorial, I did learn very much and know now, how to go on with my work. I hope you can answer me one question, please!? How thick are your layers 1, 2, 3 and 4? I just need to know, to be able to calculate how much silicon I'll need for my work...
With the unthickened layers, I allow whatever it naturally sits at. Being the viscosity it is (and the time it takes to set set), it will naturally settle at 1 or 2mm thick. If it took longer to set, then gravity would continue to work its magic and make it thinner.
As I know I'm going to add thicker layers and a scrim reinforced layer, the job of the first few layers is purely to get a good surface without air bubbles.
It's always tricky to truly know how thick the silicone will be because it's opaque and you have to trust the method. Invariably, I make the mould too thick in an attempt to avoid it being too thin.
@@stuartbray Thank you very much! Now I can work reassured... 🙃
satisfying video to watch
I have used part all wax before molding plaster and stone. Have you tried airbrush seal with clear coat?
do the details in the mold degrade after so many uses?
awesome video!
They will eventually, but for most production stuff that point is well beyond the typical demands. If industrial quantities needed then either duplicate moulds or go another route (injection moulded/machined aluminium etc)
👍👍👍👍👍👏👏👏👏👏👏👏 i leaned many things thank you from istanbul..
❤❤❤❤❤I HAVE BEEN LOOKING FOR THIS METHOD FOR ABSOLUTELY AGES ~ FINALLY FOUND IT ~ THANK YOU SO MUCH ~ YOU NOW HAVE A NEW SUBSCRIBER!! SO MUCH APPRECIATED!! JUST ON QUESTION: DO I NEED TO USE ANY FORM OF RELEASE ON THE SILICONE WHEN MAKING MULTIPLE CASTING’S?
QUESTION: DO YOU HAVE A VIDEO ON HOW TO MAKE THE LIVE PLASTER CAST ON SILICONE DOLL PARTS?
I AM TRYING TO MAKE THIS FROM OF MOULD FOR EACH SILICONE DOLL PART SO IN FUTURE I CAN THEN MAKE MY OWN PORCELAIN DOLL PARTS!!
Hi Lisa. Many thanks. For release, I tend to a wax mould release spray. Although not usually necessary for a successful cast, it tends to tax the release qualities of the mould surface less and so extends moulds life.
Do you intend to mould from real dollls? Like a lifecast, but of a doll? If so, I'd use a lifecasting silicone, which will yield plaster copies very nicely.
Hey Stuart, thank you for your amazing video! Is the burlap very important for the stability of the plaster?
Yes, as plaster is brittle and may crack when under stress such as when being levered open or bolted/clamped closed.
@@stuartbray Okay thank you for answering my question!!! So I will buy burlap :)
Thanks for a great video. How many litres of silicone are required for a mould like this ?
That's a great question. Depending on how thick you make it, around 3 to 4 kg probably.
@@stuartbray Thanks Stuart! How many hours would you say it took to make this? Not including waiting for things to dry?
What a great school day!
I would like to do a mold of a old wood sculpture with the original colors. Can i put the silicone directly without damaging the origin colors?
I would imagine you can but it may need a release agent to help remove the mould easily. By colours, do you mean a paint rather than a woodstain. If so, I would suggest doing a small patch test to check it doesn't affect it.
The danger is that old paint which peels off may become damaged during removal - it all depends on the condition of the piece.
If you mean the original natural wood colour, I would be worried that the oils on silicone would stain the wood and modify it.
The safest option is to 3D scan the item and 3d print it.
@@stuartbray thank you very much for your quick answer. It help me a lot
Loved this tutorial! Can I ask what kind of Silicone did you use there? @stuartbray
Sure thing. At one minute in, I say that it's Dow Cornings 3481, a popular tin silicone.
How to mix the silicon mold.
Do you mean the technique of how to actually mix, or do you mean the percentage of catalyst used?
You could get a smooth finish and stronger but adding cornstarch in your silicone. And mixing until it's at a putty like stage. Roll it out and apply like. Fondent. A bit easier !
Never even thought about trying that. I've used Polyfibres with urethane and also resin but will give that a go.
hi. thanks alot. excuse me, how much silicone do you used for this mold? thanks.
About 2kg
I need this silicone to use and make pop design mold, how can I get it ?
From a special effects materials supplier. It all depends on your location as to which supplier is closest. Whereabouts in the world are you based?
CAN YOU USE CEMENT WITH THIS MOLD? I KNOW THIS VIDEO IS OLD BUT HOPEFULLY YOU STILL AVAIL. THANK YOU
As the jacket or to fill it and make a cast? Cement usually comes best from a urethane mould rather than silicone.
Is there a dye that I can get from Walmart that can be used to color the silicone ?
Acrylic Paint will work but I'd try and get silicone pigments for optimal performance.
@@stuartbray I was thinking about trying RIT. I have 12 ozs of red lol
@@REDFOOT79 I'd always suggest trying a small sample and see if it has any deleterious effects in the curing of the silicone.
How long do you wait after every layer of silicone.
Until it has set sufficiently to withstand brushing of the next layer. This silicone has three speeds of catalyst available (slow, fast and very fast). Ambient room temperature will affect the actual speed. Warmer speeds things up, cooler slows it down.
I used the fast, and it took approx an hour for each layer to become stiff enough to withstand the next.
Are you maybe introducing the air bubbles with the AIR gun! 😂😉🤔🧐
No, they have crept out from inside the plaster. I've had it happen when there was no air blasted from the outside.
Is that a Paltinum or Tin cure silicone?
This is Dow Corning 3481, a regular tin moulding silicone.
@@stuartbray Thank you for the reply.
I need a rubber mold for flower jar production
Cool.
👍👍
Isn't it silicon expensive?
Expensive is a relative term. It certainly isn't cheap, but a job is priced up accordingly. There are always cost and benefits to weigh up, so choosing the right materials for a job is important.
Time is also expensive, so sometimes a task is made simpler and more efficient with a more costly material, which may save time and stress in the longer run.
Putting a dollar value on the benefits offsets the cost of material.
Why don't you use a paint stick to mix the silicone? Not judging, just curious. I imagine you lose so much material, and people might use latex gloves to mix, and that's never a good outcome lol
With larger amounts I apply with hands so they are getting messy, but surprisingly little waste. If the few extra grams are an issue, I'll hope that economy of using a stick will occur to them.
@@stuartbray I meant when mixing the base and catalyst. I'd be afraid of someone using latex gloves or not getting an even enough mix. I like to use my hands to "brush on" as well, but I always mix with a paint stick just so I can get a good fast, but thorough mix with as little waste as possible. I always just use my hands for plaster or a drill mixer. Then after I pour the silicone the stick helps with bucket clean up (instant pull plug! If I'm making multiple batches) while letting me know if it's set or not. Again not bashing or anything. I was just curious to your thought process.
Correct volume...2low!!
That is a LOT of layering procedure, surely it could have been done more simplistically
Certainly it could
Did you say “unfortunately it’s called a flange”? 😂😂
If so, why???
In the UK, 'Flange' is urban dictionary language which can refer to a lady's undercarriage.
And if you want to use a human to make a silicone mould mould make sure you use skin safe. Also make sure you stuff straws up his nostrils and one in the humans mouth as you want your human to still be breathing after an hour or two.
I would never advise straws in the nose, as knocking that and carving a groove into the nasal cavity isn't great. It also distorts the nose and lays flat over the lips and gets in the way of business.
I 3D scan nowadays instead life cast in the main. So much more accurate and comfortable.
@@BattlesWithBitsofRubber no computer in my day. No videos in my day. And no books just pamphlets with silly drawings on them so I learned the hard way with all the other oldys but knowledge was handed down and nice to see we where able to hand it over to the more advanced technology of today. But I see your point with the nostrils but still think it's a great idea to use skin safe on the human skin and pop a straw in the mouth if you choose the old fashioned way of the old school mould maker.
Naturally you'd use a skin safe silicone for life casting. This video is about making a master mould from a plaster, so this video isn't about skin safe materials. I have done life casting videos where this is the subject.
I too grew up learning from old school techniques and masters. It amazing actually how much you appreciate the new tech having spent 30 years never having it.
I worry that mould makers who only use digital won't have the hands one experience to appreciate the benefits of being able to print up moulds and mould jackets.
There's nothing like hands on experience.
@@BattlesWithBitsofRubber I'm sorry if I come across telling you how to make a mould that's not my intention im saying this for new mould makers watching your video. I seen some on on you tube make a two part plaster mould of some ones hand then try to open it with a Stanley knife on the person's hand. I also seen a guy taking a fibreglass mould half from another man's torso and struggling for a while you heard him taring it of. I could not believe it. So it's just in case some one gets ideas from your video. It's obvious to you and me but not to others
@@michaelpearson1272 yow! That madness. You seen the lifecast video of a woman who has her head thru a hole in the table and a box built around it?
They filled the box with alginate and it pushed away the straw up her nose and basically she started to panic and nearly drowned. Gave me the heebee jeebees.
Honey it's just your duplicate...
As a child, I hated my mom and dads death mask...I still dont like them . just a heads up if you have children.........