I think that I would have done a print coat before going onto the pouring of the silicone. But other than that I did pick up a few things to do with my next project. Thanks for sharing
I have never done a print coat for a matrix mold. The only thing like that is to prep our any areas that may trap air. My issue with print coats is that it is one more area where you can run into issues if for some reason the silicone does not bond and causes delamination. With something as smooth and even as this I don’t think a print coat is really needed.
@@toxicimagestudios9547 I have only had delamination issues with urathane rubber but I can see your point. Also I would personally like some kind of a location method for the shell after the clay is removed before sealing it down. Perhaps simply drilling just two locations on opposite sides into the plaster shell and into the base board that would remain even after trimming.
@@toxicimagestudios9547 ultracal. How did you dispose of it? (The water waste) I wanted to be environmental safe and not mess up pipes. Just curious as no one talks about it.
@@shellumus What I do is usually have a 5 gallon bucket filled with water on hand for a slop bucket. I use this to rinse out any wet waste and for the buckets where the UC30 has set up it just cracks out and can go into the rubbish bin. This 5 gallon bucket will have any heavy particles gradually settle on the bottom and solidify. Over time (depending on how much you use UC30) it will get a sedimentary like build up in the bottom of the bucket until it is almost full. At this point you can tip out the water on top and then turn the bucket upside down and all the solid waste will fall out. This can then go into the dumpster. Hope this helps. The other option is to get a plaster trap on your shop sink which filters and catches all the heavy particles.
The reason I l Ike WED is because it is very soft. If you use a hard clay then it can jack up your sculpt (if you are molding a sculpt). If you are molding something hard then you could absolutely use plastalina but it will be a pain to work with and finish down. You don’t need any detail and water clay is easy to clean out of the jacket. You can throw it fast also. If all you have is plastalina then you could in theory use it., but I think it would be better to get some water clay.
@@toxicimagestudios9547 the final piece inside the mold..i am working on a full head bust piece and thought to make a core in resin or foam with a silicone "skin" over it...or..possibly making a silicone mask of it
So you are not wanting to produce a “core” then per se, but an actual replica of the head in resin or silicone? You could absolutely use this silicone mold to cast a resin or fibreglass piece. If you were wanting to do the foam filled silicone (or latex skin with polyfoam fill) you are better having a hard mold.the general rule is that a hard piece needs a soft mold and a soft piece needs a hard mold. If you are using silicone you could use any number of products for the rigid mold. Fibreglass, cement, urethane, epoxy.... they will all work (there are some some specific guidelines with platinum silicones and cure inhibition caused by some molding products, so do your homework on that) but latex is always best run in a porous mold like plaster or cement.
That depends on what you want the suit made out of. There are several methods you could use that will give you different results. Factors include budget, skill/knowledge, time frame and desired flexibility.
Badass Bodypaint THANK YOU!! So much for the reply back. I wish I could afford Jim Hudson’s material what he and his team did for TMNT was amazing! I want Something that looks great for I decent price I’m not rich by any means. I want close to the 1990s costume. And it can last A long time. I work with mentally disabled kids And I’m also an actor. I wanna wear the costume for their birthdays ETC.. They love ninja turtles. Is Latex foam expensive?
What is “Expensive” is all relative to who is answering. To me, who buys around 40-50 gallons of it per year, it is not very expensive. I work with these types of materials every day in my job. To the average person it may however seem very expensive. There is no single product that will give you everything you want out of a suit. Foam latex is extremely light and flexible but not very strong. It breathes and absorbs sweat (as it is a sponge). Silicone is expensive ad extremely heavy, but moves well and is very strong. It does not breathe or absorb sweat. It can easily lead to the actor overheating. Using couch foam and fabricating the suit is cheapest, is light and is absorbent, but may not look as nice as you are hoping. With any suit you will need to weigh up the pros and cons. None of these options could really be described as “affordable” as creature suits can run into the thousands of dollars just in materials. Good luck :)
לכלל הציבור אני מעריך ומוקיר את העבודה בסיליקון ש- MR. BADASS עושה ומבקש ממנו לתרגם לכל שפה שיבין את הברכות שנתתי לו . כולם משתמשים ב- DICTIONER להבין מה כתוב לכל העולם בברכה תודה
Toxic Image Studios come on... 2020... If I could come up with a machine, anyone can... and no.. I meant machines that make numerous molds out of one master
Toxic Image Studios true... I’m talking about a machine which can created a mask for an individual user. Ie, one created from a negative and positive. For the purpose of creating 10- 20 masks in a matter of hours for the purpose of giving an actor a set he or she can transport to the set, no matter the location
Thanks for the useful tips. Would it not be better to smooth out the square edges on the clay so that the silicone falls easily into the mothermold, you’d still have keys but it’d be easier to seat it
I have certainly seen that done before and have, myself, done it at times.if it is rounded it does go in more easily, for sure. The problem is that it also comes out more easily, so you need to weigh up how well you want it to stay in the mother mold. End of the day it is up to you which way you want to go. Both are valid and are widely done
@@toxicimagestudios9547 p.s If you add Fillite to silicone you can get twice the volume for the same price( Fillite is cheap). I wouldn’t do that until I’d done a couple of coats of neat silicone, but for incorporating bulk for undercut sections etc it works well
@@toxicimagestudios9547 I was asking about the clay cutter and the clay u use and the silicone any links to there I can get this is something new for me
I got the clay cutter 15 years ago from a local ceramics shop in Orlando Florida. I have no idea where they got it from. I am sure if you google adjustable clay cutter you will probably find something similar.
BUT... if you wanted you could use pretty much any clay, unless you are using a platinum silicone for the mold and then it would need to have zero sulphur in it to avoid cure inhibition.
You are THE BEST at explaing! Please do snaps.
as in section molds? Smaller more specific areas of the lifecast used to create the core of smaller molds?
@@toxicimagestudios9547 yes please, like if I just wanted to make a nose for example or just the mouth.
26:39 What is the name of the orange thing in your hand?
Fantastico tutorial. Excelente
Thanks for such an in depth interview.
Thank you so much
Hi I would like to see videos on what type tools you have and how to make them if you still going to do some your awesome
What kind of tools exactly?
Thank you so much sir For helping us you are so amazing.
you are welcome :)
26:39 What is the name of the orange thing in your hand?
thank you,. that video was useful!
you're welcome
So perfectionist. Bravo
26:39What is the name of the orange thing in your hand?
I think that I would have done a print coat before going onto the pouring of the silicone. But other than that I did pick up a few things to do with my next project.
Thanks for sharing
I have never done a print coat for a matrix mold. The only thing like that is to prep our any areas that may trap air. My issue with print coats is that it is one more area where you can run into issues if for some reason the silicone does not bond and causes delamination. With something as smooth and even as this I don’t think a print coat is really needed.
@@toxicimagestudios9547 I have only had delamination issues with urathane rubber but I can see your point.
Also I would personally like some kind of a location method for the shell after the clay is removed before sealing it down. Perhaps simply drilling just two locations on opposite sides into the plaster shell and into the base board that would remain even after trimming.
God bless you
Awesome video!!! One question I have is where do you put the hydrocal water?
what do you mean by "hydrocal water"? I did not use hydrocal in this video.
@@toxicimagestudios9547 ultracal. How did you dispose of it? (The water waste) I wanted to be environmental safe and not mess up pipes. Just curious as no one talks about it.
@@shellumus What I do is usually have a 5 gallon bucket filled with water on hand for a slop bucket. I use this to rinse out any wet waste and for the buckets where the UC30 has set up it just cracks out and can go into the rubbish bin. This 5 gallon bucket will have any heavy particles gradually settle on the bottom and solidify. Over time (depending on how much you use UC30) it will get a sedimentary like build up in the bottom of the bucket until it is almost full.
At this point you can tip out the water on top and then turn the bucket upside down and all the solid waste will fall out. This can then go into the dumpster. Hope this helps.
The other option is to get a plaster trap on your shop sink which filters and catches all the heavy particles.
Would you recommend only to use WED clay for the matrix mold jacket, or could you use plastalina clay?
The reason I l Ike WED is because it is very soft. If you use a hard clay then it can jack up your sculpt (if you are molding a sculpt). If you are molding something hard then you could absolutely use plastalina but it will be a pain to work with and finish down. You don’t need any detail and water clay is easy to clean out of the jacket. You can throw it fast also. If all you have is plastalina then you could in theory use it., but I think it would be better to get some water clay.
Sorry for my late response I appreciate your response
Is there a way to make a lightweight core for this process? Something aside from the sculpting itself?
I am not sure what you are asking. You mean the original piece you are going to be molding or the final piece you will be laying up inside the mold?
I mean, the answer is yes to both options, but each can have different methods and materials
@@toxicimagestudios9547 the final piece inside the mold..i am working on a full head bust piece and thought to make a core in resin or foam with a silicone "skin" over it...or..possibly making a silicone mask of it
So you are not wanting to produce a “core” then per se, but an actual replica of the head in resin or silicone? You could absolutely use this silicone mold to cast a resin or fibreglass piece. If you were wanting to do the foam filled silicone (or latex skin with polyfoam fill) you are better having a hard mold.the general rule is that a hard piece needs a soft mold and a soft piece needs a hard mold. If you are using silicone you could use any number of products for the rigid mold. Fibreglass, cement, urethane, epoxy.... they will all work (there are some some specific guidelines with platinum silicones and cure inhibition caused by some molding products, so do your homework on that) but latex is always best run in a porous mold like plaster or cement.
What material do I buy to make a Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles 1990s suit I already bought head piece.
That depends on what you want the suit made out of. There are several methods you could use that will give you different results. Factors include budget, skill/knowledge, time frame and desired flexibility.
Badass Bodypaint THANK YOU!! So much for the reply back. I wish I could afford Jim Hudson’s material what he and his team did for TMNT was amazing! I want Something that looks great for I decent price I’m not rich by any means. I want close to the 1990s costume. And it can last A long time.
I work with mentally disabled kids And I’m also an actor. I wanna wear the costume for their birthdays ETC.. They love ninja turtles. Is Latex foam expensive?
What is “Expensive” is all relative to who is answering. To me, who buys around 40-50 gallons of it per year, it is not very expensive. I work with these types of materials every day in my job. To the average person it may however seem very expensive. There is no single product that will give you everything you want out of a suit. Foam latex is extremely light and flexible but not very strong. It breathes and absorbs sweat (as it is a sponge). Silicone is expensive ad extremely heavy, but moves well and is very strong. It does not breathe or absorb sweat. It can easily lead to the actor overheating. Using couch foam and fabricating the suit is cheapest, is light and is absorbent, but may not look as nice as you are hoping. With any suit you will need to weigh up the pros and cons. None of these options could really be described as “affordable” as creature suits can run into the thousands of dollars just in materials. Good luck :)
Badass Bodypaint Thanks man I appreciate your feedback. Yes I was thinking $400 500
טוב מאוד זה מרשים עלי ותצליח לכל אשר תפנה ולכל מעשה ידך תהיה ברכה ארמונד ביטון ישראל
I have no idea what that says
לכלל הציבור אני מעריך ומוקיר את העבודה בסיליקון ש- MR. BADASS עושה ומבקש ממנו לתרגם לכל שפה שיבין את הברכות שנתתי לו . כולם משתמשים ב- DICTIONER להבין מה כתוב לכל העולם בברכה תודה
Ancient pizza recipe!
Aren't there sophisticated machines mass producing these things?
mass producing what exactly? Faces to sculpt onto?
Toxic Image Studios come on... 2020... If I could come up with a machine, anyone can... and no.. I meant machines that make numerous molds out of one master
@@wtbofnc7880 I know some people have 3d printed some molds, but I am yet to see a machine that makes them out of cement or epoxy.
Toxic Image Studios true... I’m talking about a machine which can created a mask for an individual user. Ie, one created from a negative and positive. For the purpose of creating 10- 20 masks in a matter of hours for the purpose of giving an actor a set he or she can transport to the set, no matter the location
Thanks for the useful tips. Would it not be better to smooth out the square edges on the clay so that the silicone falls easily into the mothermold, you’d still have keys but it’d be easier to seat it
I have certainly seen that done before and have, myself, done it at times.if it is rounded it does go in more easily, for sure. The problem is that it also comes out more easily, so you need to weigh up how well you want it to stay in the mother mold. End of the day it is up to you which way you want to go. Both are valid and are widely done
@@toxicimagestudios9547 thanks for the reply and good point. Your molds are very neat and well constructed, keep up the great work!
@@toxicimagestudios9547 p.s If you add Fillite to silicone you can get twice the volume for the same price( Fillite is cheap). I wouldn’t do that until I’d done a couple of coats of neat silicone, but for incorporating bulk for undercut sections etc it works well
I am not familiar with that specific material. I would assume though that it would reduce the tear strength considerably.
26:39 What is the name of the orange thing in your hand?
Finished mold looks like a cool wall bust of Hannibal Lecter surrounded by buzz-saw blades.
Hello Great job you are the best I have seen so far can you please see me I link for the tools clay and silicone ect that’s a lot of information
I dont understand what you are asking for.
@@toxicimagestudios9547 I was asking about the clay cutter and the clay u use and the silicone any links to there I can get this is something new for me
I got the clay cutter 15 years ago from a local ceramics shop in Orlando Florida. I have no idea where they got it from. I am sure if you google adjustable clay cutter you will probably find something similar.
26:39 What is the name of the orange thing in your hand?
You didn't explain - I don't think - what that clay is...silicone clay of some sort?
The clay I used here is WED clay.
BUT... if you wanted you could use pretty much any clay, unless you are using a platinum silicone for the mold and then it would need to have zero sulphur in it to avoid cure inhibition.
@@toxicimagestudios9547 Thank you
@@toxicimagestudios9547 26:39 What is the name of the orange thing in your hand?
@@serdal6173 It is an adjustable clay cutter
I dont remember the brand
dude your mold is a sculpture , stop it