How To Stop Disc Brakes Rubbing On Your Road Bike - Bike Maintenance
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- čas přidán 2. 06. 2024
- There is nothing more annoying than rubbing disc brakes. In this video, I show you how quick and easy it is to fix this problem on the vast majority of bikes using some basic tools.
Most disc rub issues are caused by one of three things:
Calliper Alignment
Warped Rotors
Sticky Pistons
*Here are the things I used in this video:
Maintenance Stand
amzn.to/49YAUtz
Brake Pad Adjustment Tool:
eBay: ebay.us/qDK4n5
Amazon: amzn.to/3sL68mW
Magnetic Parts Tray:
amzn.to/3Q6LBRM
Rotor Alignment Truing Fork
amzn.to/3QOuFRR
Crankalicious Brake Disc Cleaner
amzn.to/3PapjPS
Copper Grease:
amzn.to/3EaE1js
10 ml, 20 ml and 50 ml Syringe with 14G Green Mixing Kit
amzn.to/3stfCTO
*Chapters:
00:00 - Intro
010:04 - Calliper Alignment
03:12 - Warped Rotors
07:12 - Sticky Pistons
Oh, and you can check out Chris' whole video here:
• Entertaining Disc Brak...
About Ribble Valley Cyclist:
I am a regular road cyclist based in the North West of England. I have been a cyclist my whole life, and try to get out every day. The purpose of my CZcams channel is to share the knowledge I’ve built up in my 40 years as a cyclist.
Follow me on Facebook:
/ ribblevalleycyclist
Follow me on Instagram:
/ ribblevalley_cyclist
See my routes on Komoot:
www.komoot.com/user/184990942...
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/ @ribblevalleycyclist
Email me:
ribblevalleycyclist@gmail.com
#bikerepair #bikemaintenance #discbrakes #brakepads #roadbike #workshop #bikecare #wintercycling #review #cycling #cyclinglife #ribblevalleycyclist #roadcycling #crankalicious #bikeclean #bikewash - Sport
![[柴犬ASMR]曼玉Manyu&小白Bai 毛发护理Spa asmr](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/0TsXQ7z2Dh4/mqdefault.jpg)
Any time a bike mechanic on youtube gives you advice.. if he’s wearing an apron.. pay close attention. You’re about to learn stuff worth learning.
yep, apron and Park tools - definitely paying attention, liking & subscribing;
Absolute lifesaver. Informative, concise and giving alternatives to specialized tools. Thank you!
Brilliant video! Thank you for taking the time to explain. The first demonstration shown solved my brake problem. Thank you!
1st method totally worked. Thank you!
Glad to hear you got it sorted.
I watched 10s of videos about this problem but this video is the best, easiest and most accurate. ❤
Wow, thanks Faris!
Got one coming up on stopping squealing disc brakes...... watch this space!!
Jon
The best video! it was the spacer and the cleaning and pushing the pistons with a toothbrush for me 🏁
A pair of Chorus rim brakes with Swisstop pads no problems, easy to maintain and work a treat.
I would agree with you, in some applications, Chorus rim brakes with Swisstop pads is a better solution, easier to maintain too. However, when running carbon rims in the rain whilst descending a Lake District pass would be suicidal. Both have their advantages and disadvantages.
Thanks for watching.
Jon
@@ribblevalleycyclist I would agree with you horses for courses. Depends on the type of cycling you do.
Cheers Jon….As always you’ve done another quality video with really useful information, explained in an easy to understand manner. 👍🏼
Glad you found it useful, Adam 👍
Great video! Followed your instructions and you were right it took about 5 times by just squeezing the hand brake and then a little tweak but I got it. I also bought some spacers just in case! 😉
Unbelievable - this just worked! They never ‘just work’!
Thanks!
Haha 😂😂. Glad it sorted it for you 👍
Great tip on fixing warped rotors… thank you so much. Yes, they’re called crescent wrenches here in Canada as well. I have heard my parents call them spanners though.
Hi Peter,
Thanks for confirming, and glad you found it useful.
Jon
Excellent instructions, thank you very much!
Glad you found it useful
really good detailed video that helped me a lot, thanks for your effort and clear explaination of everything!
Hi Stewart, Thanks for the feedback, really appreciate it. I'm always pleased when I hear someone has found one of my video's useful.
I had the same issue of a small rotor adjustment needed. I used the location method you mentioned, found the spot, was minimal. But I used the back end of a lg screwdriver, slowly tapped in the direction and amazingly it worked as I didn't want to overdo it with a crescent wrench or such. Awesome vid my friend. Thank you from N. California
Hi Michael. Glad you got it sorted. The screwdriver idea is brilliant 👍. Greetings from a slightly damp England 😂
Que bien explicado, muy didactico. Gran descubrimiento éste canal.
Mis respetos
Really pleased to hear you found it useful, Steve 👍
This guy is good! Very good at explaining.
Glad you enjoyed it, Dom 👍
Best video on CZcams on this topic!
WOW, thanks Kubilay, that's some praise indeed!
Bought a spacer shim after watching this vlog. Work's a treat....... thank you 👏
Glad you found it useful, Andrew. Thanks for watching. 👍
Where to buy the thin shim ?? Thks and how thickness the shim ?? Thks
@cheachyang3502
Hi Chea,
Here is the link. A couple of options for you, they both do the same job:
amzn.to/3sL68mW
amzn.to/3ORLp8s
Thanks,
Jon
Great video. I use a pointed cotton tip soaked in isopropyl alcohol to clean the exposed piston sides.
Thanks Blair, glad you liked it.
That is a Top Tip! If you're going to town on it, then a cotton tip soaked in isopropyl alcohol is the correct way to do it. Following up with a cotton tip and brake fluid is also a good idea. I was considering doing 3 separate videos, and showing more detail, like you've suggested. But in the end, I went with the condensed version in one video.
Nice video and some good instruction mate 🤙
Thanks 👍
That was a well put together video to help the home mechanic with some common problems . I can't tell you how many hours I have spent in the workshop over the years doing this 👍
Thanks, Daz, glad you liked it.
This issue is a nightmare, especially on the older gruppo... improved on the 12 speed. To be honest, it's sometimes easer to say Balls to it, and just let it rub 😂
Oh, btw, did I see one of your comments pop up on the last Mapdec Cycle Works video?
@@ribblevalleycyclist yes, I have recently found his channel. He's a pretty honest mechanic
great video mate!
Glad you enjoyed it
Thank you sir! Shims did the trick for me. Used spark plug feeler gauge leaves, #26 & #25.
Spark plug feeler gauge, great idea 👍
You saved my brakes. Great video, thank you!!
Hi Maciek, Saved your brakes.... Result!!!! I'm always pleased when I hear someone has found one of my video's useful.
Excellent video, thank you very much, I was able to fix it using the wrench I had
Glad it helped 👍
Wonderful useful Video ❤
Glad it was helpful!
Great video. I have now sorted my front disc brake. I had to use the business card method.👍
Glad you found it useful, and got it sorted 👍
Great, so useful. Just bought a brand new bike and the discs are rubbing as the disc is slightly warped. Just ordered the tool you recommended and look forward to sorting it! Thanks 🙏
Glad it helped. Let me know how you get on 👍
thank you. work perfectly
Nice explained well
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for watching,
Jon
Hey! Great video, thanks! And for info, we call it an "English wrench" in Portugal 🙂
That’s funny. In German, we call it „Englishman“ 😂
Thanks, Fábio, interesting. If I'm honest, I hate the things, they're the best way to round off a nut.
Crescent wrench... yes. I'm impressed you know this 😀👍
And I'd be impressed if I knew how I know that 🤣
Thanks for watching 👍
You make really useful vids. In my experience though, bent rotor because of overheating will sadly bend again. Getting a 140mm high quality one will solve the issue.
Thanks, Pirmin, appreciate it.
Agreed. If you have a close look at the bike in this video, I'm using floating discs from Hope. This type of disc is amazing at resolving warping caused by overheating. I will never buy any other disc again. Well worth checking them out, but depending on your location, they can get expensive.
Thanks for watching.
Jon
Hi Jon, I use to use mineral oil or DOT to lube the outside edge of the pistons when putting them back to make cooperative.
Hi Tadej,
Yes, agreed, that is the best way. Great tip that👍
Jon
Great comment on copper slip to prevent galvanic corrosion on retaining pins, would be a nightmare on such a thin bolt (snap in half city :))......
Hi Sean, Oh, it is. And they're made from really soft steel, and have a flat screwdriver head, so they round off really easily. You can get titanium versions, but they're silly money. Best just use a bit of copper slip, and don't do them too tight!!
Thanks for watching,
Jon
I had a fourth reason pop up on a brand new bike. It was rubbing, not too badly, but rubbing right from the get go. Drove the shop mechanics crazy trying to figure it out. Finally I ended up pulling the rotor off and remounting it on the wheel. Voila, no more rubbing. Weird because it wasn’t loose or anything, properly torqued, but it somehow managed to get a little cockeyed to create rub. I’m finding I have to remove and remount it every once in awhile as it gets out of alignment over time with use.
Good point, viffer94. This is more of a problem for the older skewer style quick release bikes, thru-axle does a better job. I always recommend putting the bike on the floor with the wheel loose, leaning on the bike to add weight, and then doing the wheel up. You then align the caliper to that. Then, in the future, if you take the wheel off, you just need to lean on it when doing it up for perfect alignment.
Thanks for your thoughts.
Jon
thank you - excellent
Glad you found it useful 👍
Great video!
I'd rather see the pistons of the brakes bottom out in their original set position. Using the spacer and loosening the housing might only be reading a warped rotor.
On a side note: Shouldn't you check to see if the rotor is true first? What if you try correcting it by loosing off the piston housing and it reads where the warp is? I know this is likely not going to be the case because of the low chances but it would be as simple to check for the warped rotor first.
Hi Hexus,
Glad you enjoyed it.
The idea of the video is to show you the 3 main problems you may have, and how to overcome each one. You wouldn't necessarily do each one in the order I did them!!
Thanks for watching.
Jon
Thanks so much for this video. I recently washed my road bike after a day in the rain, I took my brake pads out, cleaned them with isopropyl alcohol and so did with the rotors. Unfortunately, I did not note the position of the pads (left/right, forth/back) and so in my next ride I got a back/forth wobble in the front wheel when braking hard in a decent. Can the wrong repositioning of brake pads cause such wobbles and if so what would be the best remedy?
Hi Dimitris, Mixing the pads up can result in differing pad thickness within a single calliper, and therefore may cause pad/disc rub or a knocking feeling when breaking. My suggestion is to put pads together that look to be of similar thickness.
Also, it's worth giving the pads a bit of a clean, check this video out:
czcams.com/video/DLFQAuv9fCg/video.html
Hello from across the pond… many call it a Crescent wrench because of the giant tool company that produced them and still does- Crescent Tools. It’s like how people call nearly any carbonated soft drink a Coke out here too.
Great video! I really enjoy your style and presentation. Are you a full time bike mechanic ? I’d use use for maintenance any day of the week, but I can’t swim. :)
That would be one heck of a swim!! Used to work in the industry, and have always been a keen cyclist. Also, was pro BMX as a child/teenager. Trouble is, repairing bikes doesn't pay the mortgage 😟.
Great video, but one of my pistons does not move back at all. I have been cleaning/ pumping/ cleaning/ greasing. But it won’t move back. What to do?
First of all, should it move? Some very cheap brakes only have one moving piston. If you’re sure it should move, then hold the apposing piston back, and pull the brake, that should get it moving. Careful though, it may end up moving too far!
Very detailed video! Just come across your channel when I have this problem today. However, my disc still rubs after these three methods. At this point, would you say I should check if the brake mount is perfectly faced or anything else? (New bike, new components, bleeding just done today)
Hi,
That sounds very annoying, especially with new kit! The question here is to work out what is causing the rubbing, is it misalignment, or is it sticking pistons? If it's new components, then the chances are, it'll be a bleed issue. Also, facing is rarely something you need to do on a used bike. Facing is usually needed post-production of the frame, to tidy and straighten the mounting points. If I were a betting man, with the information I have, I'd say the pistons were not returning in. It may be worth double-checking the hoses for air. I did a video on brake bleed, it's here:
czcams.com/video/eGclavtkoIg/video.html
Love the video! It blew my mind when you grabbed the right lever for your front brake! 😳 I guess my Canadian mind isn’t wired that way. Is it normal for all UK bikes to control the front brake with the right lever? If so, I would have to be careful renting a bike in the UK. 😜
Spot on. The first time I rented in Majorca, I nearly went over the bars 😬
I have those Hope rotors on one bike with Ultegra callipers and I like them, but my favourite bike has new Ultegra rotors with the new Ultegra R8100 callipers and those are pretty well perfect.
I like the Hope because the floating technology prevents temporary warping when hot. Not tried the new Ultegra yet.
You legend 💪
This was good
Thanks for watching 👍
I’m new to brake disc’s and I’ve got them on my new canyon Aeroad. I’ve done the tip for the front and it worked 1st time. Rear seems to be rubbing too. Is there a similar tip to stop this ?
To clean pistoms.. how about using a pipe cleaner? The little bristle-y brush I see used for everything but cleaning pipes? Seems it would easily be able to gently scrub the sides of the pistons and its very flexible as well. And cheap
Good call dsonyay. Showing your age there though, with pipe cleaners. I remember my dad using them to clean his pipes on a Sunday morning!
Allow me to add one more cause of brake rub. Pertaining to Sram AXS: my Red AXS brakes began to rub after running them about 1000 miles. This occurred several times after bleeding and new/used pad installs. What happened? Well, to the best of my ability to troubleshoot, the issue was in the adjustment of the contact point and lever reach adjustment system (as it only occurred on the right lever. Looking at available schematics of the AXS levers, it appears both screws are part of the brake fluid reservoir piston, with the top contact point screw rotation moving the piston up and down, and the lower reach adj screw moving the lever in and out in relation to the piston. So, the both work on opposite ends of the hyd piston in the lever.
Sram says to back out the contact point screw when bleeding. I found that in order to eliminate brake rub, I had to run both the reach and contact screws through their full adjustment several times after bleeding (and after suffering from mid ride brake rub) and while doing so, I encountered a sticking point with the reach adj screw - almost as if there was excessive Loctite on the reach adj screw threads. Since using this method post brake maintenance, any mid ride brake rub has gone away.
Also, I found it critical not to swap left/right pads if removing and replacing again for any reason.
Just asking in case of different brake routings, the right brake is for rear wheel right?
Love your workshop mate, is it your business or personal?
Cheers..... Took a lot of sweat and money to build it. Just personal nowadays Buddy. Don’t work in the cycling industry any more….. doesn’t pay the bills 😐
@@ribblevalleycyclist looks really good, that’s a shame as you’re a natural at it 😊
Nice of you to say so 👍
Here's one I have never read about. Bike is a specialized turbo levo SL carbon...over $8000. Rear brake dics in not running true. Tried mounting three different rotors and still same run out. Mounted the rotors in different positions on the hub and the run out was always at the same postion of the hub, not the rotor. Turns out the machined mounting surface of the hub was out of true. Took me a day of tinkering with dial iindicators, truing stands, etc to figure that one out.
You forgot to mention just changing the rotor. You can pick one up for under a tenner in Decathlon
My pistons are sticking on brand new bike that hasn't been (ridden) yet, however I did turn my bike upside down for hour, did this make my pistons stick?
Can this spacer be used on a road bike as the one shown here is for a mtb?
Stay with rim brake?
In the States the adjustable spanner was manufactured by the Crescent tool company so its generic name is a “crescent wrench”. Like the generic name for a vacuum cleaner in Britain is a “ Hoover” j
And everyone calls sticky tape Sellotape 😂. Thanks for explaining, all makes sense now
Jon
How do you straighten the caliper on the rear? Hard to reach the brake
The adjustable wrench in Australia is know as Shifter.
Who knew?????...... Thanks Zed 👍
Will that caliper alignment tool work with sram hydraulic as the clearance is really tight
I suspect so, JK. This demonstration was done on Shimano 8000, which is known for being ridiculously close.
@ribblevalleycyclist thank you have purchased one to give it a go
@JK-wl5bx Nice one. Let us know how you get on and if it fits.
Thanks
Jon
What are those tires mate? Lovely
Funny you should ask that now. The answer is in this video, that I uploaded minutes ago 😂😂:
czcams.com/video/Gz5n2iuUrSs/video.html
@@ribblevalleycyclist haha, sweet. Cheers!
Yes, but if the pistons need to be pushed back, doesn't that mean they will get stuck again and again?
If the piston is moving freely (Seals not dirty, or failing), then the combination of the lever pulling the fluid back, and the pad spring will push the pads away from the rotor.
Here in canada we call that an 'adjustable wrench' or just 'adjustable'
Same as the UK then 👍
I have a Turkey gobble noise when I apply disc brakes on my bike ......how do zinc fix it
sometimes method 1 and 2 still won't work, i ended up eyeballing the gap and carefully moving the caliper to the correct position then tighten the 2 bolts little by little.
I must admit, biking chupei, I've sometimes done it that way too. This is the problem when you're working with such tight tolerances.
Thanks for popping in and commenting.
Jon
Yes it's called a crescent wrench in North America.
Thanks Restless 👍
you can just hold the sharpie against the front fork and let the tip come into contact with the disc as its spinning,easy way to see where its rubbing and cleans off with with ipa.
You need to be careful doing that, some ink contains natural oils..... which, if it gets on the pads, will result in squealing brakes
Where to buy the thin metal sheet ??
Hi Chea,
Here is the link. A couple of options for you, they both do the same job:
amzn.to/3sL68mW
amzn.to/3ORLp8s
Thanks,
Jon
Have centered the pads and after few rides rubbing again. Why? Daaaaaaamn those DB . I need rim brakes for sure ! :D
Yup, I've been using disc brakes on my mountain bikes for over 10 years now, and I see no reason to use them on a road bike. As far as your immediate problem is concerned, you could be dealing with eather, a sticky piston, or a rotor that gets easily bent, probably a worn one.
@@independentthought3390 As i see the problem is on pistons. One is more outside .
@@Godspeed961 In that case it's definitely a sticky piston problem. This video should tell you how to fix it czcams.com/video/53x5I1wc14E/video.html
@@independentthought3390 I should try it ! Thx mate !
Agree with IndependentThought, sounds like a sticky piston. Good luck with the repair, and let us know how you get on 👍
The fourth reason, could be front end caps damaged, or worn out. The wheel under pressure starts to wobble.
i know im not guna get my answer in time but i still want to know what 2 bolts do i loosen cuz i cant find the 2 that fits 4 ellen wrench
The two that mount the calliper to the bike. Possibly your bike uses a different size
@@ribblevalleycyclist Is it the 2 silver not facing towards me cuz those 2 take 5mm
@@ribblevalleycyclist Do i re tighten really tight? or tight enought?
@@ribblevalleycyclist its still rubbing
subscribed 👌🏻 🇮🇪
Thanks for the sub, Harry 👍
@@ribblevalleycyclist no sweat mate great info 👌🏻
I like to clean the shim with isopropyl alcohol to make sure there is no contamination of the pads.
That is a great tip. After all, you don’t want to fix one problem just to make another. I’ve got a video coming up on cleaning contaminated pads…… watch this space 👍
Thanks for watching.
Jon.
@@ribblevalleycyclist I am a subscriber because I find you are proficient and a good teacher (I used to be one). Keep up the good work and be well Jon!
Thanks Denis, appreciate it. Hoping to get some more content out soon.
Some discs start rubbing on descends when hot but soon stop when cool down.
Look at floating discs, they don't do this. Hope make some good ones.
Croissant wrench...Naw, thats just me being hungry.
Its performance may be a little flaky 😉
Once a rotor is warped it´ll get after hard breaking back to warped position.
Hi Tomek, Agreed this can happen from time-to-time. There are a couple of things that can cause this. I won't bother writing paragraphs of text as to why this is, because it's the laws of physics, and we can't do anything about it 🤣
did this with my eelctric bike because the front brakes werent working, broke it even more and now i cant even fit the wheel in it anymore lol
While this is a good video covering all the points, these are just temporary fixes. Rotors warp again under heat, pistons clog again, especially with metal pads, etc. etc. Even with perfectly clean and adjusted brakes you get a little mud or sand grain wedged between the calipers and disc and it rubs again. ☹
Forgot to add: the permanent solution is to just ignore it. Eventually it goes away.
This is the trouble with disc brakes, they're good, but also a pain in the ar$e!
The Hope rotors you see on the bike in this video are great, they're floating rotors, so are less prone to warping under heat. I'm a big fan of this technology and will only use floating from now on.
My front rotor is currently rubbing, I'll ignore it and let you know how i get on, fingers crossed you're right 😉
Thanks,
Jon
The "squeeze the brakes and tighten the bolts" trick seems logical but doesn't work, I had to spin the wheel and hand adjust the brake housing until I didn't hear rubbing anymore, then carefully tighten bolts
That's caused when the two pistons don't retract equally into the calliper, known as a sticky or dragging piston. Both the lever vacuum, and the pad spring will apply a shared load across the two pistons. That shared load will always follow the path of least resistance. The piston with the least resistance will retract further into the calliper than the one that drags, resulting in the other piston protruding. This can usually be overcome by cleaning the sides of the pistons with brake cleaner and a cotton bud. Chances are, your rubbing problem will return, so you may want to try this.
@@ribblevalleycyclist It's a brand new Canyon Grail out of the box... I'm pretty sure the pads aren't dirty
@thebrunoserge Agreed, it won’t be dirt. That is most peculiar, a new bike shouldn’t be doing that. I would recommend you check that both pistons are retracting fully. That check is easier done with the wheel removed. If they’re not retracting fully and equally, then you may want to speak to Canyon about it.
@@ribblevalleycyclist It’s not that peculiar, cycling brands just charge premium for shit engineering and quality control. That’s perfectly normal under late stage capitalism, sadly. It’s OK it works now the housing just has to be positioned by ear instead of using advice that assumes the brake pads will release equal distances on both sides, which they almost never do
crescent wrench
Discs are only any good on a mountain bike, brake hard on a road disc like I did in a proper emergency stop and it’s Ching Ching Ching 🤣 the discs are like milk bottle tops, way too thin and lack of tolerance, they have a long way to go , personally without increasing weight and tolerance on a road disc this is a problem the bike industry cannot solve.
A good quality well maintained hydraulic road disc brake works well. Agreed, not as well as a mountain bike setup. However, when running in the rain whilst descending a Lake District pass, the alternative rim brake would be suicidal. Additionally, you wouldn’t want to run rim on a gravel bike….. just look at old MTB V brakes.
Also, from experience, when braking hard with disc on a road bike, the tyre is usually the first thing to stop doing its job.
Thanks for watching.
Jon
@@ribblevalleycyclist I’ve done one proper emergency stop on my bianchi all road with 105 hydraulic disc , it was rolling away from traffic lights and I got up to 20mph when a car just turned into my lane 🙄 had a split second to decide I couldn’t swerve it so it was a proper pull to the bar job just like a motorcycle emergency stop, pull and hold!!! it was a dry road and I was running schwalbe g ones 38c, this is what happened, the impact was unavoidable so it was a question of scrubbing off speed before I hit the car, i thought either the fork would snap or the front wheel would wash out, neither of those things happened , my weight was back as far as possible and I went over the bars, the wide tyre gripped so well that going over was unavoidable, I was ok so all good 😃 couldn’t even spin the wheel one revolution after that stop , I’ve been riding 40 years and the last time I went over the bars I was 10 years old!!!! so the question is what would happen on a proper road bike with a 25c tyre and a wet road 🤔 it’s going to be a front end wash out for sure, I cannot stress enough that this was a life or death emergency stop where I landed on the bonnet of a Peugeot on my back😊 , this info might be of some use because a lot say they had to stop sharp but it ain’t an emergency 🤣 next time you’re going down a hill at 20mph pull the front brake to the bar and hold it and let me know what happens on a narrow tyre 😊 I believe this is why the bike industry have gone with wide tyres, it’s for safety not comfort like they keep telling us🤣
Yes, we Yanks call that a crescent wrench.
Thanks for confirming, Libertyville Guy 👍
Best way to fix disc brake - USE RIM BRAKE
Here is an easy fix, rim brake
Use rim brakes …
They rub more
Not sure about that 😂
Actually he's wrong on the last point...if the brakes are still rubbing, chances are it's not a brake bleed you need...it's actually more likely that you need your brake mounts faced (aligned perpendicular with the axels using an expensive facing tool).
Just to explain, what Phillip is saying here is, instead of basic routine maintenance, like replacing brake fluid, which, when contaminated with either air or dirt, is universally known to both affect braking performance, and cause brake rub. You should instead cut into the frame with a £400 ($500) tool, that, when used incorrectly, will cause irreparable damage to your frame.
Phillip is right, I’m wrong. Don’t check the basic and obvious things first. Be more like Phillip.
@@ribblevalleycyclist I didn't suggest necessarily that individuals without experience use that tool...many bike shops can perform this service for you....and on your point when the brake lines are contaminated with air/dirt usually the brake pads tend to not provide enough pressure to the brake pads to provide proper contact with the disc, so it's not as likely that rubbing will happen (although I suppose the 'rebound' would be lacking, but that slight amount of rubbing when there is no pressure on the pads from the caliper is usually a very quiet noise). Also, most frames don't get a precision facing job out of the factory and are misaligned enough to cause rubbing problems due to an uneven braking surface. Also, lets not insult one-another, it's not constructive and helps nobody.
Why do the europeans put the front brake on the right side?
In the UK, it’s on the right, but in mainland Europe it’s on the left. Not sure why.
Because it's not the wrong side
How to stop disc brakes from rubbing on your bike:
1. Remove disc brakes
2. Install rim brakes
It drives you god damn mad and of course slows you down as well; lots of lost energy! 🤬
I hate disc brakes... Gonna stick with alloy wheels and rim brakes. I dont need this hassle in my life. More time to ride.
You are so right mate.
You are so right mate.
Get a rim brake bike
Just go rim brake. No tools required
You are the tool required
Quick and easy fix ....buy a rim brake bike😊
Stick to rim brakes
My front disc break does a thing where if it's tight enough to actually grab the rotor, it will click and then release the pressure on the rotor, I think it may be because the breaks are so cheap
Yeah, that sounds a little worrying. Are they mechanical or hydraulic?
@@ribblevalleycyclist They are very cheap, not hydraulic.. if I look directly at it I can see the caliper twitch along with the click... like it grabs when i squeeze the break leaver, then it clicks and releases on it's own... and it only does this when the break is tight enough to actually be working... I have it loosened to not get that click... resulting in the front break hardly doing anything.
@YoungNino2017 So they’re mechanical callipers. They use mechanical leverage that can fail. When it does, the mechanism slips causing it to jump, which I suspect is the issue. You need to get that checked/replaced.
Best solution for disk brake issues ? Rim brakes