How To Bleed Shimano Road Hydraulic Disc Brakes - Bike Maintenance
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- čas přidán 3. 06. 2024
- How To Bleed Shimano Road Hydraulic Disc Brakes - Bike Maintenance
In this video, I explain the process of bleeding the brakes on a road bike fitted with the Shimano 105 7000 groupset. I also give an explanation of how to clean callipers, and replace disc brake pads.
Equipment Used In This Video:
Bleed Kit:
Standard - amzn.to/49VJ7P7
Premium (Bleed Funnel & Adapter included) - amzn.to/47OjnCy
Shimano SM-DISC BR-M575 Funnel:
www.wiggle.com/p/shimano-sm-d...
Shimano ST-R9120 Funnel Adapter:
amzn.to/488L0Hc
Crankalicious Rotorissimo brake cleaner:
amzn.to/3KTja7W
Maintenance Stand
amzn.to/49YAUtz
10 Piece T-Handle Hex Allen Key Set:
amzn.to/3LgVWZQ
Copper Grease:
amzn.to/3QhD4vc
Steel Magnetic Tray:
amzn.to/3MsBllS
Chapters:
00:00 - Intro
01:57 - The Tools Needed
05:00 - Explaining The Process
05:35 - Removal of Wheel & Pads
06:53 - Brake Caliper Clean
10:12 - Bleed Preparation
18:32 - Brake Bleed
24:48 - Finish Off
About Ribble Valley Cyclist:
I am a regular road cyclist based in the North West of England. I have been a cyclist my whole life, and try to get out every day. The purpose of my CZcams channel is to share the knowledge I’ve built up in my 40 years as a cyclist.
Follow me on Facebook:
/ ribblevalleycyclist
Follow me on Instagram:
/ ribblevalley_cyclist
See my routes on Komoot:
www.komoot.com/user/184990942...
Follow me on CZcams:
/ @ribblevalleycyclist
Email me:
ribblevalleycyclist@gmail.com
#bleedbrakes #discbrakes #brakepads #bikerepair #bikemaintenance #roadbike #workshop #bikecare #wintercycling #review #cycling #cyclinglife #shimano #ribblevalleycyclist #roadcycling #shimano105 #shimanoroad #bikeclean - Sport
Great video. Excellent delivery, clear and concise instructions on disc brake maintenance and bleeding. Thank you.
Thanks for the nice feedback, Clive, appreciate it 👍
An absolute masterclass demonstration! Thank you for the video and the time that you have spent on the production👏👏👏
Thank you, Hitesh, that’s very kind of you 👍
You’re a legend. Perfect mix of funny and informative
Thanks Brett, glad you enjoyed!
Got one coming up on stopping squealing disc brakes...... watch this space!!
Jon
Thank you! Elaborate explanation, both interesting and helpful! I really like your presenting style. Thanks again.
Thanks Imper, glad it was helpful!
Got one coming up on stopping squealing disc brakes...... watch this space!!
Jon
best practical bleeding instructions I have seen !
Thanks Zeeshan, glad you found it helpful. 👍
Bob Ross of Bike Mechanics ❤
The Joy of Painting….. Loved watching that in my teens. Don’t think anyone will ever be as cool or smooth as Bob. Thanks 👍
This is now my favorite cycling channel, literally relaxes me just to put it on and listen to you give tips on bike maintenance. I never get tired of it,very relaxing. Thank you.
Hi Rickysee,
That is great to hear. Maybe I should start one of those relaxation therapy channels 😀
@@ribblevalleycyclist No. keep doing exactly what you’re doing. Also the sound quality is great. I’m also going to finally tackle a brake bleed. Great stuff.
Will do. The brake bleed is easy. Make sure you've got everything you need before you start, take your time, watch out for those air bubbles, and most of all, enjoy doing it yourself 👍. Let me know how you get on.
Jon
This is the only video that actually encouraged me to do it by myself and I have! Thanks a million.
Didn't have a kit however (but did have the funnel and a pipe), so I got a medical syringe from the pharmacy and chucked in a 10 mm allen key instead of a blocker. Cost me a fraction of what I would have to pay for a kit where I live.
Thanks, Xagnak, glad you found it useful. Those are good tips, like it 👍
Best video ever. Im a mug at maintenance but got this to work first time. Brakes perfect now. Thanks!
Best video ever..... Not sure about that 😂. Glad you found it helpful, it's always great to hear that someone has found my content useful.
Thanks for watching.
Jon
Thanks Jon - definitely clearest one I've seen. Well done.
Watched several brake bleed videos..this is the best, great tips and detailed instructions. Good advice on tools and equipment.
Thanks, John, glad to hear you found it useful. 👍
Great video - thanks for taking the time to provide the details.
My pleasure!
Very well done sir! Most through explanation I’ve seen!
Cheers, John, appreciate it 👍
Thanks for sharing this knowledge , some things I just let the store do but this is a great and clear explanation .
Glad you enjoyed it 👍
Thanks for a clear and concise explanation, with wit.
I have changed the pads on my Dutch bike but yet to bleed .
I wasn't aware the pistons where plastic, I had assumed aluminium.
Well...... technically, I think they're ceramic. Probably should've explained that point a bit better. But you're right, they're not metal!
Glad it was useful
Fantastic; just subscribed, thanks so much for the effort that went into this vid.
My pleasure, glad you liked it. Thanks for the sub 👍
Like the video in video. This gives at the same time detail and overview
Glad you like it, because it’s a massive pain in the ar$e to do 😂
Best spent half hour of my life :) Thanks a bunch for a great video, so many good tips.
Glad it helped!
Great step by step guide and solved (hopefully!) my spongy brake issue. Cheers!
Glad it helped!
Most useful video I've seen in a long time! I have a bike with Tektro discs that is overdue for a brake bleed. I have checked the Tektro website, and those, too, need mineral oil. I wouldn't have thought to ask before watching this video. You saved me a LOT of frustration.
Glad it helped, Andrew. Good luck with the brake bleed 👍
great and easy to understand explaination, encouraging
Glad you found it useful 👍
outstanding tutorial, thanks a lot. this time i think i finally got it
Glad it helped 👍
This is probably the clearest video I have seen of how to bleed hydraulic disk brakes, having watched this I now feel much more confident in tackling the task! I am about to work on a friends, straight-bar bike, but the principal's the same (more or less). I was cursing for offereing to give their bike the once-over, but now I feel far more up to the job. Fingers crossed.
Hi Michael, glad you’ve enjoyed it. Just keep an eye on your brake fluid type, and check the funnel fitment size on those flat bar levers. 👍
Thank you so much for this video..absolutely brilliant 👍
Hi Richard, You’re welcome. Hope you found it useful 👍
Best video ever. Thank you for the help!
Glad you found it useful, and thanks for watching 👍
Thanks, great vid. Feel confident
Hi Steve, Glad you found it useful. Keep us updated, and let us know how you get on 👍.
Thanks for watching.
Jon
Awesome vid well done!!! Liked your tips with the pad retaining bolt.I recently watched a youtube from zoubTube and he recommends getting rid of the dirty brake fluid in reverse because all the dirt enters the system from the caliber and you don't want to push all the crap into your lever which makes sense to me!So you fill the funnel and only put a little bit of fluid in the syringe and pull all the crapy fluid into the syringe.All the other steps are done exactly like your method.Cheers!!
Hi Glenn, Great tip! If I'm honest, I agree with you. It makes much more sense to do it that way. However, Shimano, and the industry generally recommends the other way because pulling the fluid down from the funnel is reliant on the individual putting enough fluid in the funnel to begin with, and not sucking a shed-load of air into the system. Pushing the fluid from a syringe upwards prevents this kind of error. Sometimes you need to allow for..... well, you know!!!! I suppose it's a bit like a car beeping loudly to say the door is open....... because the massive hole on the side of the car isn't warning enough 😀.
Thanks for watching, glad you found it useful.
Jon
Thanks, this worked a treat for me, end result is better than my last professional service
Great news, glad it was of help 👍
This is a two beer video - but very informative!!! Thank You!!
Thank you, great video!
Glad you liked it!
Great video. Thank you.
I changed to disc brakes as I was looking to invest in some deep carbon rims and was fed up with wearing out rims during wet winter rides. My disc carbon rims will now last for the length of the bike.
It's the main reason I too moved from rim to disc. I will never forget the day I put a set of £500 rim brake wheels out for the bin truck!
Excellent video, thanks!
Glad you liked it! Thanks Tim 👍
Finally a working method mate! Thank you so much, I was fighting with my GRX 400 brakes for 2 days because of another stupid youtube video. You saved my day! Cheers
Hi iBiZa Smurf, Glad it helped. That's the trouble with CZcams. I use the 4 video rule...... if they all say the same thing, then it's probably right!!
Thanks for watching.
Jon
Really good and clear video, just done mine (last did them 2 years ago and I'd forgotten how haha). One thing I found difficult was to get the angle of the bike enough to get the air to rise out of the back brake line (GRX600). It worked for me to take the calliper right off the frame and let it dangle so that it was thus the lowest part of the system. Also, GRX600, it's not a 2.5 Allen, it's a Torx15 to take the cap off the reservoir. I found out the hard way
Take the calliper off…… blumin’ genius idea that! Will be borrowing that one 😂😂 Yeah, as I say in the video, bleed port location and tool size does vary. Probably should’ve mentioned Torx though.
Never bled my brakes before, but will do it every time now. Made it so simple. Like a new bike! thank you.
Hi Mark, So pleased you found the video useful and that you’ve done it yourself and seen an improvement. That’s the reason I make them. Got a few more on the way 👍
Thanks, Jon
it’s great when the calliper as bleed nipple, the ones i have in the workshop never seem to have a bleed nipple. thanks for An interesting video
Like the older SRAM ones where you have to screw it in, yeah, not great 😕
😁about to change my old callipers for some xt - so should learn how to bleed. thanks for the video
Hi @ BloodyClash, good luck with it. Let us know how you get on. 👍
Thanks for watching,
Jon
Keep at it!!
best video. thanks
Glad you liked it 👍
I’ve watched quite a few of these videos and one thing I don’t understand is why you don’t simply fill reservoir at top, open bleed nipple on calliper and hand pump fluid through until all air bubbles are out. This is how I have done it in the past on MTB’s and the theory is similar on cars (I E built track cars and installed brake systems in the past). Just seems like a lot of faffing and I’m not sure why 😅 Not a criticism just an observation. Nice video btw. I know a lot of riders complain about disc brakes and they can be a PITA with the rubbing and noises and faffing with bleeding them etc (if hydraulic).
I'm watching this due to it being my first time trying, but I would guess that since air travels upwards, you won't get as much air out if you're just doing it from the top? I also have the exact same question and haven't found any good answer
Nice tips 😊
Loved the Italian Job..
Loved it..... watched it the other day. Oh, and Google this "Italian Job Mini number plates". It's interesting!
@@ribblevalleycyclist brilliant. Keep up the good work.
I just used this video and the Epic Bleed Solutions Shimano kit (£15.99) to replace the mineral oil in my Shimano 105 front hydraulic disc brake. The kit included everything to do the job and this video gave me the confidence to do the job myself. The key is to take your time and this video is well paced although I paused the video whilst doing each step myself. The proof will be in the road test but if I get back without brake failure then I'll be doing the rear brake next 😊🤞
Hi KCRCR, Glad you found the video useful 👍
Thanks,
Jon
@@ribblevalleycyclist heya Jon, just got back from a 30 mile road test and front brake was much better so now onto the rear brake. Presumably it'll need a drop more fluid for the rear as its got further to go ?
Cheers Kev
Hi KCRCR,
Good to hear the first one went well. The front is always easier, because most of the pipe faces upwards, so the air comes out easier. The back can be a little more difficult to get the air out, as there is less pipe facing upwards. It's common to see bike builders leave the bike on the stand at an angle, and the funnel on overnight, to let the air escape. And yes, it uses more...... roughly 50% more.
Good luck with it 👍
Jon
Good tip I heard is Bleeding it from top to bottom, especially if the brakes have not been taken care of for over a year, because doing it the usual way you basically get dirty oil through the entire system.
I’ve heard this too, good tip 👍
Fantástico!! Y luego donde echas el residuo del aceite ?parece fácil, me has animado a hacerlo yo en mi casa
Hi Steve, It is easy, give it a go. You can get rid of the old oil by taking it to your local waste disposal or recycling centre.
Thanks for watching,
Jon
Well done about as good a video of this work as I have seen. Getting ready to fo same with install of Ultegra 12 speed on Lynskey Pro GR, soon as fluid and discs show up.
Glad you liked it, thanks 👍. Titanium gravel bike, very nice 👌. What wheels and disc did you go with?
@@ribblevalleycyclist H plus son Hydra with White Industries hubs. But bought for the Industry Nine I35 wheels I use for road mainly. Building up with Ultegra 12 speed now. Hope 160 front and SRAM 140 in rear.
Nice. I use the Hope floating disc rotors on one of my road bikes, they’re amazing. Good luck with your build.
I'm an American and I can understand this guy. A lot of the Brit bike guys are tough to understand.
Thanks, James 👍. If I’m honest, I’ve never thought about that. Saying that though, my CZcams stats say I get a lot of visitors from across the pond.
It is because he doesn’t have a strong regional accent, Americans struggle with those.
@@time01010 The people in my village would disagree with you on that one, Tim.... "That silly southern softie with those posh bikes" 🤣🤣🤣
so glad the caliper adjustment didn't work the first time =) happens to me all the time
You mentioned a few times the magnetic tray but i seem get more screws on the outside than inside the tray
Excellent explanatory skills. Well done. But sorry, you are still second in line behind my man Calvin Jones at Park Tools. 😀👍
Second to Calvin Jones..... I'll take that 🤣
Brilliant channel! Instant like and subscribe! Made my brakebleed a breeze!!! Gonna buy that Greasegun asap. What Grease do you use? Looking at the colour it might be the Shimano Premium one?
Hi Rory, Glad you liked it, and welcome onboard 👍
This is what is in there right now:
amzn.to/45KcfWS
But I also use this:
amzn.to/3YWyJ4O
Both are good, but the Park stuff is the best.
@@ribblevalleycyclist Thank you for the fast response all Park Tools it is then ! =)
Great channel. I love it. For a bolt do I need any special grease to prevent galvanization corosion?
Glad you like it. If it's normal nuts/bolts exposed to the elements, then yes. However, on the braking system, don't use grease on the bleed nipples or ports, as it may contaminate the system.
Oh, and the best thing to use to prevent galvanic corrosion is Copper Grease. I use this one:
amzn.to/3QhD4vc
Thanks,
Jon
@@ribblevalleycyclist Thanks for your answer. I have Shimano GRX brakes. Some say that bolt is already protected from galvanic protection, and it is no need to use grease. Others say that any grease is ok, I heard also that some use litium grease.... It is little confuse for begginer as I am. What is your opinion? Thanks.
@zblojko Are you talking about the pin that goes through the brake calliper and holds the pads in place?
@@ribblevalleycyclistyes.
For anyone that has issues with the hoods staying saggy. A little bit of Self adhesive carpet tape works a treat!
Great idea. Thanks for the tip 👍
Tenho uma Fazer FZ25 2022. Vou esperar para migrar para uma bicilíndrica de maior cilindrada.
thanks
You're welcome!
My front bolt slightly seized and I was honestly surprised that shimano doesn't grease it from factory (these were brand new calipers untouched until my first service). Added grease and now it has been easy to undo.
Completely agree, Leslie. Can't stress this point enough. If that bolt seizes, you're buying a new caliper..... and then fitting it!!
Another vote for grease although I prefer to use a trace of high melting point copper grease to remove any chance of contamination due to melting.
Agreed, copper grease is the best option. But good old grease will do, if you don’t have the copper variant.
I like this Vedio very much ,may I ask how often should I bleed my shimano road disk brake? Or what sign should I have to do bleed the brake, thanks.
Hi Yeh,
Thanks, glad you like it.
It's not easily answered, time, riding conditions and mileage all play a part. The best advice anyone can give is to consider bleeding if you have either spongy brake performance, or poor braking. Also, it's good practice to change every few years anyway.
Hope that helps.
Thanks for watching,
Jon
I always use screw driver, the really big one and I always wrap it in electrical tape to make it soft and use it to push the pistons. Works like a charm every time and I never damaged anything. Just use common sense, be careful and don't use sharp edges or unnecessary force.
Great idea, love that👍. Agreed, common sense is the best tool. Thanks, Jon.
Plastic tyre lever I’ve always used
Thank you ! Looking at some “big boys” videos on CZcams i was nervous about doing it myself however you explained with such care and attention i am going to try doing it on my MTB.
One question i have is do i need to keep slightly excess fluid in syringe downstairs so that when i am pumping the lever air doesn’t get in ? Also the bolt at caliper is open when pumping lever ? Cheers
Hi, Montu,
Glad you've found this useful.
You shouldn't need to add more fluid into the syringe at the caliper end, as pumping the lever will drawer fluid from the funnel end. Also, there should still be a little bit in the syringe pipe from when you pushed the3 fluid in. The problem with adding more fluid into the syringe, is you may also accidentally add air into the system.
Hope that helps.
Excellent demonstration. Thanks for sharing. In some demos I have seen some people actually pressurise the hydraulic system after bleeding by forcing a little more oil in from the caliper end while keeping the top port closed. Is that a useful final step in your experience? You mention topping up after priming the system with the wheel and pads back in. Perhaps that would do the same thing?
Hi Andy,
Glad you found it useful.
A fantastic question. Pressurising is a thing, and can sometimes be beneficial. It can overcome excess lever travel where a lever doesn't offer free stroke adjustment (search YT for it). The downside is that it can send the pressure to the brake piston, and therefore cause pad rub.
Hope that helps,
Jon
great video Sir! how often do you reckon one has to bleed the brakes? with a relatively new bike in mind.
Glad you enjoyed it. I’d say do it when it starts to feel spongy or performs poorly. That one I did in the video had covered 7k miles, and it was still working, albeit poorly!
Quick question. Would you recommend topping up the fluid again after bedding the new brake pads in? The fluid reservoir seems kind of small and I would guess the fluid level in it drops quite a bit after seating the new pads on to the disc. Thanks.
Hi Petcatznz,
Very good question!
When fitting new pads, you would push the pistons back into the caliper to accommodate the new thicker pads. So, theoretically, you shouldn't need to bleed. However, if you think the lever travel is excessive, or feels spongy, then it may be worth doing.
Hope that helps.
Jon
what could cause the lever to become extremely stiff after heavy braking? i understand overfilling them can cause this but thats not the case with mine
Great video. 👍 What is the recommended brake fluid change in mileage? I’ve done over 13,000 mile on my Giant Defy and no problems with the brakes apart from several pads
Hi Mike,
Thanks, glad you liked it.
Good question. To be honest, I personally don’t think there is a definitive answer to this one. The issue is moisture and contamination, but if neither happen, do you need to even replace it? If you ask an expert like Park Tool for example, they’ll say once a year. Not sure about that though, because you may only do 100 miles in a year!! The fluid in that bike was over 3 years, and 7500 miles. It still worked, but had lots of travel, and was a little bit spongy.
This would be by advice to anyone asking this question, if it’s got lots of travel it’s probably lost a bit, top it up and evaluate. If it’s spongy, it’s probably contaminated, just replace it. If it’s over 2 years or 10k, consider replacing it anyway.
Thanks,
Jon
Jon, excellent demonstration of this procedure, though I have just one question as I have never dealt with hydraulic brake system. For the front you filled the syringe 3/4, however I assume that that will not be sufficient in case doing the rear as the tube/hose is longer and volume is larger. What would be your recommendation for filling it when doing the rear brake, full? Thank you for your advise in advance.
Hi Hans. You are spot on. I’d say just fill the syringe up all the way and put back in the bottle what you don’t use.
as you push fluid thru the syringe into caliper, do you simultaneously pump the lever?
No need to, the path is already open for the fluid to pass through the whole system. You only pump the lever when you need to encourage the trapped air in the lever to come out.
@@ribblevalleycyclist but does it hurt to do so?
So what happens when you strip the bolt area for the retaining pin of the brake pads? can a new BR M785 still work?
Hi Ranx, great question. If the head is stripped but you've managed to get it out, don't re-use it. Some people use an R-Clip or a Split-Pin, but I'm not a fan of that, because you need to bend it to stop it coming out. You can buy replacements, check Gorilla Brakes out - gorillabrakes.com/collections/brake-pad-retaining-pins
Thanks for watching,
Jon
Have you opened bottom, before pumping brakes and leaning bike? Otherwise, very informative
No, close the bottom off first 👍
If I buy the premium kit, I don’t need to buy the shimano funnel and adapter? Is that right. Thanks
Spot on! This is it:
Premium (Adapter included) - amzn.to/47OjnCy
Excellent video. But, right shifter to bleed the front brake? Is that a left-handed bike?
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it. In the UK, the brakes are that way around.
@@ribblevalleycyclist how did I get to this point in my life and not know that?? Thanks!
I only found out when I went on a cycling holiday in Majorca about 10 years ago. Nearly went over the bars 😂
I apologize it's just that I'm watching I'm watching you but the the geometry on had bicycle is just so bloody forward and it's so cool
Are the 105 pistons really plastic? Om my shimano slx brakes the are some sort of ceramic but with that said they are even more brittle then plastic.
If you push them in crocked they wedge and usually the only way they are coming out is in pieces.
Maybe the description of 'Plastic' was a bit broad, they too are some sort of ceramic
Good video but still can’t get the right feeling in the brakes , tried bleeding from the caliper and then pushing from the hoods , loads of feel when bleed black is in but as soon as I’ve finished the lever is still going nearly to the hoods have some bubbles but still can’t manage to get the lever to have a decent feel I give up it’s witchcraft
Sounds like air to me. One or two bubbles will kill the setup, it must all go. Tap the pipes, tap the levers, pull the levers, and tilt the bike whilst you're doing it. Some mechanics choose to leave the funnel on overnight to let all the strapped air escape.
be really careful pushing shimano pistons back because the ceramic is very brittle. also make sure the bleed block fully supports the pistons, if not they can crack on the inside whilst bleeding when you squeeze the lever to check the bleed is good. If the pistons are pushed out (by pulling the lever) or in (when retracting manually) slightly out of square, they are quite likely to crack.
Agreed. They're brittle, and can crack. However, the good news is replacements easy to get hold of.
I had oil leak out when I pushed my pistons back. I'm guessing I have cracked them as they no longer work??
It’ll probably be the rubber seals between the piston and the calliper. Most manufacturers offer replacement seals.
@@ribblevalleycyclist I think it's fine because I ge slight movement when I close the levers. I think the issue is still with my calipers though. My caliper has the same star screw has the levers. I can fit a funnel to the caliper but there is no valve to open and close.. I think my best option would be to get a new set of calpiers unless there is another method.. I thanks. I'm current using my front brake lol. :)
Hi. Very well explained, but I'm a little confused. At the beginning you show how near the lever comes to the bar and you say this is dangerous (no argument there). Near the end of the video and with the wheel back in, you still seem to be able to get the lever very near to the bar. It doesn't look as if much has changed. I expected a lot less travel on the lever.
Hi Paul, It always does that at first, but it firms up after use. Your right though, it doesn’t look like much of an improvement in the video!!
Mu son-in-law was having problems with his disc brakes (I have rim brakes) so my daughter asked me for advice. I had no idea so I watched this video. Seems well thought out. Will recommend to my son-in-law. If he still has problems, I have another job to do. Great video. Thank you.
is it wrong to do it the opposite way? I mean using the syringe to pull the oil from the funnel and if any dirty oil comes into the syringe, close the circuit at the brake caliper, empty that syringe, reattach it, open the circuit then add more oil into the funnel and continue
Hi Comedyman112,
No, not at all. The main task is to replace the oil without adding air. There is no reason you can't go the other way. Tip though, keep an eye on the supply at the top.... you don't want it to run dry and pull in loads of air!! However, when it comes to getting the air out, you'll still need to follow the standard process.
Hope this helps.
Thanks,
Jon
@@ribblevalleycyclist thanks. I've seen it done the other way on other tutorials and wasn't clear.
Nice video apart from the fact you bled the brake in the wrong direction. If all the contaminants are in the calipers end why would you push all that crap through the entire system and risk blocking the lever.
Just do it the way Shimano recommends and gravity bleed from the top to the caliper.
I really miss rim brakes. All this maintenance is nuts. ABS systems will be next
I must admit, I prefer rim brakes. If I lived somewhere dry, and had an unlimited supply of wheels, I'd only run rim.
lacing rims... not low maintenance
Wait big mistake 😊. Before you push the pistons, add a bit of lubricant on the piston ( mineral fluid). Give it few gentle squeeze watch pistons so that only 1-2 millimeters come out. Then you push pistons.
Why do all this with syringe, etc. and just do a gravity bleed from top? Pour brake fluid in the reservoir, open bleed at bottom and let fluid and air out until it runs pink. Close bleeder screw. Done
Because the two fluids will mix slightly. You'll never see a pro-mechanic do it like that, for that very reason. They will also mix slightly using either the push or pull technique, but it's less. Also, some brakes..... Shimano Road for example have narrow bleed nipples, so that process would take days.
Why does brake fluid have a fixed lifespan? DOT fluid can absorb moisture, which reduces hydraulic performance and therefore must be changed regularly. But mineral oil... if does not absorb moisture. No?
My understanding is its main enemy is dirt. The o-rings that sit between the caliper body and the piston will only stop so much. Dirt will get past the seal, and this contaminates the fluid. Additionally, the continual changes in pressure will take its toll on the fluid.
I hate riding with other disc riders down a hill. They just squeeeel like a pig all the way down! Also, this guys right! Most of the advantage of discs was during the first year of introduction, when novices discovered that a new disc brake was better than a 20 year old obsolete center mount Dia-Compe rim brake with hardened pads. Now that disc brakes have aged, you can see just how delicate, unreliable, and poor performing discs are when in the same unmaintained condition! And the maintenance is harder! Those 20 year old center mount brakes start looking real good after you simply replace the pads. Now get out your funnel and the little adapter for the funnel and use your allen key to bleed out all over the shop so don't forget the rag! Oh, and don't lose the little washer !
Key is at home or in a shop. If you want to do it on the road, you'd better have rim brakes! Disc brake are the costliest BS pushed by manufacturers! If you use serrated rims like Enve and direct mount rim brakes you'll be fine, even in light rain. I you live in Seattle and love a good rain ride, get discs. But if you live in Cali like I do Discs are overkill and there are fewer accidents with discs because the bikes are always in the shop!
I think the rim/disc argument is partly a geographic one. People in warmer/dryer climates will say they're overkill or marketing BS. However, people in wetter climates think they're a godsend. Personally, I think they're ugly and annoyingly complicated, I don't like them, and I wish I didn't use them. However, because of my location, I'm now 100% disc.
The costliest bs pushed by manufacturers is a $3000 set of wheels that gets rubbed away every time you want to stop
Hydraulic braking is worst ...out in the field, getting dark, unscrew top fill, put rag around it. Unscrew bottom hose, pull out of calipers. Push pads apart ( screwdriver). Syringe 3/4 full baby oil into brake line, force fluid up into brake lever til no bubbles. Quickly seat brake line into caliper, and tighten. Clean up mess at lever. Try to get home safely...get some wire cable brakes. 👍👍
Jesus. Get on with it!
Here you go, Country Dick:
www.youtube.com/@gcn
This is why i would never buy a disc brake bike
They can be annoying, highfived, thats for sure!
Rim brakes fools😢
What's up dude that bike is so fast looking it's macabre that is the coolest bike I have a mountain bike and it's just know that bike just that bike looks as fast as humans are it's just so sexy and I got to pay attention to the instructional video but your back is really cool okay and I would love to race you anytime anywhere anytime super cool by thanks for the information love you to death