Nice work. Just a couple of pro tips. 70g AO is a bit too aggressive. The coating is chemically designed to stick to a specific etch pattern. We get 100g garnet from Grainger for about $45 for a 50lb box. Also, make sure you air cure for 8 minutes min before baking. The air cure does two things. The solvent evaporates out then the coating levels down into the etching. If you cut it short, the solvent bakes into the coating making it overly shiny, and because it hasn't leveled yet, the coating won't be as durable as it could be. Good video.
Try using 2 wires to hold the piece in place and keep it from blowing around. Put one wire in one hole, and another wire in the other. Probably more to that, but, it's a good start. This super informative. Thank you for this!
Excellent video. Small parts are a pain. Things like base plates for mags just swing in the breeze. So to get around that I’ll stabilize it with my thumb and only coat about 3/4 off the item. Then I’ll bake for about 8min at 150° and then let it cool all the way before spraying the last portion, stabilizing with my thumb on the end that’s already coated. The important part there is to overlap your spray. You want to not only cover the area you missed but also get some cerakote over what’s always been covered. If you don’t, it will have a slight color variance between the two areas
Nice video brother. Just dropped off my CZ P-01 to get it coated for $200. Too chicken :) to DIY I want to try maybe a knife for practice. Keep up the good work my man.
Whoah bro, that's a Microtech! You have good confidence in your skill level. Would like a better look at that beauty. I will hopefully get to try it myself in 2024.
really enjoyed your video, how did you come up with your catalyst # every way I was taught to figure ratios your figures never work for me or my teachers. please explain how you came up with your figure, And again very nice video thank you Gunsmith Dave
Good job explaining this process. The spray gun is probably top shelf quality. I was wondering if you saw anything at harbor freight that would qualify for spraying / atomizing this coating? I'd rather put the extra $ towards paint when I don't plan to continue this as a hobby, but only a couple items.
Bro use the Home Depot rental program.. I have done it more times than I care to admit. I mean buy it, save your receipt, use it for a job and take it back saying it didn't work satisfactory. They'll refund you no problem. It's free in the end and you get your job done
Awesome video! Trying to figure out if it’s necessary to tape off the area on a knife where the copper bushings ride or not. It’s noticeably polished there on some knives
Does the cerakote mess with the detent or bearings at all? I have a bunch of knives I wanna cerakote, but I don't wanna mess up the action and it's not that difficult to tape it off. Also I remember seeing a knife that was cerakoted by REK and the pivot looked like it was taped off.
What if you have a paintjob you want to cerakote over? If you sandblast your paint job, you'll ruin it. Same goes for cerakoting over a hydro dipped project. As far as the blades, you need to know what you are doing. Certain blades are heat treated at certain temps... But as long as you are well below that temperature it shouldn't change the metallurgical properties.
Cerakote high heat tape should work. "Depending location and size of engraving" If it's to small single line engraving lines then will have to go over it again to engrave it and clean it up
At 300 degrees for an hour it would, but how much IDK I would imaging it would drop the Rockwell hardness by 1-3 points. Usually you do 2 cycles of tempering, so I’m wondering if the sand blasting could be done before or after the 1st cycle then go straight to Cerakoting them.
I am actually still watching your video, its a good video, and I’m advanced certified, and because I love it so much, I am protective over it. I am happy to answer any questions you may have. Nothing wrong with tools you’re using, they’re fine. But after disassembly, soak in acetone for 30 mins, at this point, no longer touch w bare hands as oil can contaminate the substrate, then gas out for 30 mins, this is where you will see oil etc seep from the small cracks if the previous steps didn’t work, if you still have oil, soak and gas out again. then in the blast cabinet. You are correct about the shiny parts, make sure they are dull, and if you can, get 100grit garnet sand, grainger sells 50lbs for about 45-50 bucks, that’s what’s in the cabinet at cerakote. I stopped using AO because its messy as hell. And when you spray, you wanna dial down the gun for the small hard to reach places first, then you should spray in an octagonal pattern w your gun at a 45* angle to get better coverage. Cerakote has official videos if you wanna refresher. Then you can start putting your logo on your knives or tools or whatever. I apologize if I came off harsh, I’m just passionate about this stuff. Keep after it, and if you fall in love w this amazing product like I did, I recommend taking the course, you obviously love working on cars, you can cerakote almost anything on a car. Hit me up, if you need any advice👍🏻
Nice work.
Just a couple of pro tips. 70g AO is a bit too aggressive. The coating is chemically designed to stick to a specific etch pattern. We get 100g garnet from Grainger for about $45 for a 50lb box. Also, make sure you air cure for 8 minutes min before baking. The air cure does two things. The solvent evaporates out then the coating levels down into the etching. If you cut it short, the solvent bakes into the coating making it overly shiny, and because it hasn't leveled yet, the coating won't be as durable as it could be.
Good video.
Garnet instead of AO huh?
@@jonhaze7537 We can get it easier. Either will work as long as it's 100g.
Try using 2 wires to hold the piece in place and keep it from blowing around. Put one wire in one hole, and another wire in the other. Probably more to that, but, it's a good start. This super informative. Thank you for this!
Great job man! Well done video
This is awesome man, I was on the fence about getting into Cerakote for knives/small stuff, and you’ve convinced me to jump in!
Dude!! You’re thorough!! I like that!! I’m doin it !! Thanks for your time !!
I love the quality of this video. well done good sir. Very clear instructions and insight that the common man to do. Awesome job
I have been painting cars and airplanes for years, This looks amazing as I am considering painting archery bow risers with it.
Very awesome!
Very well made video thanks lots help
You could hold em with snap ring pliers in the pivot hole. That way they don’t get blown.
That green is nice! Harbor freight is an awesome place for those on a budget looking to do pro stuff! It's the person not the tool.
Great video thank you!
Excellent video. Small parts are a pain. Things like base plates for mags just swing in the breeze. So to get around that I’ll stabilize it with my thumb and only coat about 3/4 off the item. Then I’ll bake for about 8min at 150° and then let it cool all the way before spraying the last portion, stabilizing with my thumb on the end that’s already coated. The important part there is to overlap your spray. You want to not only cover the area you missed but also get some cerakote over what’s always been covered. If you don’t, it will have a slight color variance between the two areas
Get yourself jewelers tongs
Nice video brother. Just dropped off my CZ P-01 to get it coated for $200. Too chicken :) to DIY
I want to try maybe a knife for practice. Keep up the good work my man.
Whoah bro, that's a Microtech!
You have good confidence in your skill level. Would like a better look at that beauty.
I will hopefully get to try it myself in 2024.
I see you have a Tamiya Toyota Bruiser. Nice man
If you can get round spring metal rods that you can bend into a shape that'll keep tension equal from side to side that's your best bet.
Man you must be an Oregonian, Toyotas, guns, knives, DIY, Harbor freight…. Very Oregon!
Thanks bro
really enjoyed your video, how did you come up with your catalyst # every way I was taught to figure ratios your figures never work for me or my teachers. please explain how you came up with your figure, And again very nice video thank you Gunsmith Dave
Haha that troodon is from wish I have the same one 😂
Man I would love to send you some of my knives to cerakote!!
Good job explaining this process.
The spray gun is probably top shelf quality.
I was wondering if you saw anything at harbor freight that would qualify for spraying / atomizing this coating? I'd rather put the extra $ towards paint when I don't plan to continue this as a hobby, but only a couple items.
Bro use the Home Depot rental program.. I have done it more times than I care to admit. I mean buy it, save your receipt, use it for a job and take it back saying it didn't work satisfactory. They'll refund you no problem. It's free in the end and you get your job done
I don't have a blast cabinet but when I was working at harbor freight I got a free sandblast tank, will that work?
Awesome video! Trying to figure out if it’s necessary to tape off the area on a knife where the copper bushings ride or not. It’s noticeably polished there on some knives
Very much so, for any kind of coating you want to keep the moving parts free
Also make sure to not coat the lock face!
why not bend ur wire into a " u "shape so its a spring in the hole to stop it moving
Is the cabinet running on the same compressor you paint with? Really nice job and solid vid...
Yes, same compressor
It seems like you can spray a lot of that on there without it running
👍👍
Will it spray through an airbrush?
👍
do you HAVE to use a sandblaster for DIY at home? can you just scuff by hand or would a tumbler work?
Media blaster for sure. Want to get everything off and doing it another way will leave a higher chance of an area not having the coating adhere
Does the cerakote mess with the detent or bearings at all? I have a bunch of knives I wanna cerakote, but I don't wanna mess up the action and it's not that difficult to tape it off. Also I remember seeing a knife that was cerakoted by REK and the pivot looked like it was taped off.
Generally any points of contact should be taped off so you don't mess with the tolerances of hardware
Does the coating screw with the blade centering once you go to out it back together or doing you have to remove some of the coating?
I know you asked this a long time ago but no, cerakote is actually a very thin coating and in most cases you won’t notice a thickness difference
.01 of an inch layer
What if you have a paintjob you want to cerakote over? If you sandblast your paint job, you'll ruin it.
Same goes for cerakoting over a hydro dipped project.
As far as the blades, you need to know what you are doing. Certain blades are heat treated at certain temps... But as long as you are well below that temperature it shouldn't change the metallurgical properties.
Anyone know of anything you could mask engraved lettering with that would hold up to the heat
Cerakote high heat tape should work. "Depending location and size of engraving" If it's to small single line engraving lines then will have to go over it again to engrave it and clean it up
Was that a lynch clip on that pm 2
Yes sir
Putting the knife in the oven, does that mess with the tempering procces that was done when the knife was made ? New to knife making..lol
At 300 degrees for an hour it would, but how much IDK I would imaging it would drop the Rockwell hardness by 1-3 points. Usually you do 2 cycles of tempering, so I’m wondering if the sand blasting could be done before or after the 1st cycle then go straight to Cerakoting them.
my thoughts as well!
What size air tank you use?
21 Gallon Harbor Freight compressor
could it be applied by brush?
Lmao no
I have so many "airsoft" guns to paint now. 🤣
Clean your loft bro, been waiting almost a year for that man cave tour
When doing multiple colors “camo” how thorough must you clean the gun between coats
Its a graduated cylinder not a beaker.
I fucking dare you to cerakote the trodon handles
I appreciate trying to help people, but I can definitely tell you are not certified because of the abundance of mis information
Lmao 🤣
Thanks man. No I’m 100% not certified, but I don’t do this for a living, I do it for myself
I am actually still watching your video, its a good video, and I’m advanced certified, and because I love it so much, I am protective over it. I am happy to answer any questions you may have. Nothing wrong with tools you’re using, they’re fine. But after disassembly, soak in acetone for 30 mins, at this point, no longer touch w bare hands as oil can contaminate the substrate, then gas out for 30 mins, this is where you will see oil etc seep from the small cracks if the previous steps didn’t work, if you still have oil, soak and gas out again. then in the blast cabinet. You are correct about the shiny parts, make sure they are dull, and if you can, get 100grit garnet sand, grainger sells 50lbs for about 45-50 bucks, that’s what’s in the cabinet at cerakote. I stopped using AO because its messy as hell. And when you spray, you wanna dial down the gun for the small hard to reach places first, then you should spray in an octagonal pattern w your gun at a 45* angle to get better coverage. Cerakote has official videos if you wanna refresher. Then you can start putting your logo on your knives or tools or whatever. I apologize if I came off harsh, I’m just passionate about this stuff. Keep after it, and if you fall in love w this amazing product like I did, I recommend taking the course, you obviously love working on cars, you can cerakote almost anything on a car. Hit me up, if you need any advice👍🏻
Don't waste your time here folks.. move on.. keep looking for a better video
That’s funny cause everyone here seems to say it’s a good video 🤔
I really enjoyed it! he’s just being a douche.