ShopBuilt - How to Anodize Aluminum!
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- čas přidán 27. 03. 2018
- WARNING- always add acid to water!!!!
In this video i show my step by step process for anodizing aluminum in my woodworking shop. This video is full of tips and tricks for anodizing aluminum all sorts of colour using battery acid and a cheap power supply.
Giaco whatever video - • Mini Slingshot: How to...
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Anodizing supplies - www.caswellplating.com
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Battery acid is 37% sulfuric acid, 63% water, in case anybody's wondering, so by diluting it 3:1, you end up with about 9% sulfuric acid. You could also buy undiluted sulfuric acid if you wanted, and dilute it 11-1. Also, aluminum anodization is just creating a very thin layer of aluminum oxide, which is a hard ceramic, on the surface. Then you dye that thin layer.
@daveklingler820 - I'm trying to dye a nylon belt with an aluminum belt all black..I can't take the buckle off..I bought rite black dye because of the belt but don't know what to do about the buckle..any ideas on this?
@@Jeremya74You can find aluminum blacking solution in small bottles that would be perfect for your application. Blacking aluminum is the one color I know of you don't have to go through a whole process, just clean the surface and brush on the solution. Black in seconds. Either online search or a local outdoors shop that sells gun accessories (stocked with barrel bluing etc). Not too expensive last I bought.
Hey, I work in an anodize shop and work with aluminum airplane parts. You mentioned using aluminum tig wire and said you can only use it once. You can etch your aluminum tig wire to remove the anodize finish. We use aluminum racks to hold the parts and dip them in boric sulfuric acid to get an anodize finish. Of course the racks get anodized as well so we just etch them in lye and then dip them in a weak acid wash to get rid of the dark etched coating left from the lye.
A point: the aluminum racks do wear out from the repeated etch/acid/anodize process. They get thin and flimsy.
When diluting acid, put the water in the container first. The reaction between water and acid generates heat. Slowly adding acid to water prevents the heat being generated too quickly, which can be dangerous.
doc Winters, my 7th grade chemistry teacher taught us all to think "A to W." Always.
AAA - Always Add Acid (to water)
This is known as an exothermic reaction. And it can blind you literally if the acid is strong enough and there are impurities in the H2O
Back when I used to work in a plating lab, we had a collection of small plastic tapered pins that we used to connect wires to parts. Wedge in a straight wire into a hole with a plastic pin and it ensures a good neat connection and is really quick to do which is important when you are anodising hundreds of small parts all at once.
Seems like a great use case for 3D printing. You could design custom work holding jigs
@@SamChaneyProductions my first thought as well. I’m going to design a variety of pins and put it on Thingiverse.
For not being a professional, the commitment to learning and teaching this process is amazing.. I had no idea that t-shirt dye was the homeowners version and I have that for sure.. on top of showing and explaining how things went wrong too.. deff can put this on the jack of the trade list at least.. superb job, much appreciated!!
Great vid! I did quite a lot of DIY anodizing a few years back. I know you're worried about surface finish but after I cleaned the parts and have them on the hanger... 15-20 seconds in lye solution, rinse, then a quick dunk into De-Ox/De-Smut, rinse and then into the anodize tank. That will ensure that you don't get surface irregularities. Also, invest in the Caswell anodizing dyes... They're UV tolerant and the color is ~4X deeper than with RIT. You might want to take a test part that's been anodized and dyed and lay it out in the sun for a few days... the RIT dye tends to fade. Lastly, make sure your power supply is set to hold voltage and not amperage. Doing so will allow you to see when you reach PAR (persistent anodic resistance). As the aluminum oxide grows so does the resistance. Lastly... Heating the bath won't help your anodizing, if anything it'll prevent you from achieving a good thick coating, in fact... the difference between regular type 2 anodize and hard anodize is that you chill the the bath to increase the thickness of the anodize. One way to tell if your anodize is thick enough is that the part will have a yellowish tint.
Quite the girth on that man sized manicotti you just stretched his sphincter cramming knowledge and experience in the process, balls deep 😳
Just saying --impressive
Publisher holds your hanging inside-out pocket when you walk around
@@j.ballsdeep420 LOL. Thanks BTW.
Several decades ago I am working in a custom automation engineering shop ,I suggest to the owner " why not have our machines color coded , when anodizing our parts . Black for base,red for moving parts ,blue for mounting and yellow for parts between red moving and blue mounts . It would add aesthetics and give us a " brand " look . My idea was scoffed at . A few years later I am at a new job and supervisor say's " I see from your resume that you worked for XYZ custom automation corp. , we .....have some of their machines here , lets look"......... so there they were ,red,blue ,yellow and black anodize finish . " Sharp looking machines ,eh " . Yeah ' sharp looking machines . dicks
Smart greedy dicks too. Somebody else took credit for your idea and probably got a nice bonus $$$$
I'm a machinist and was just curious on the whole process of anodizing. Very informative and well put together. Thanks!
I don't think I'll ever anodize something, but this was really cool info!
You never know when you'll need to anodize something;)
ShopBuilt I do this at work everyday I’m trynna learn more I need that raise 😂
@@jonathanvalencia606 let's link up. I want to make custom paintball markers for cheap. Dog bowls. Whatever sells :)
Do you remember the old James Bond movie "Never Say Never?"
Agree, green. It's just different. Didn't think I would enjoy this video as much as I did. super cool process!
Thanks!
Same here 3x3!
This is one of the best produced home HOWTO videos I have seen in a while. Clear imagery, clear audio, clearly explained, and especially the post-mortem / troubleshooting samples at the end.
yeah really like/enjoyed the no nonsense aproach of this video other than the previous seen look at me I struggled bla bla cliff hanger ...
Instead i got a straight recipe and I tried this method combined with what i already knew and got great results...
top!!
thanks sensei!
Agreed!! Through and clear instructions for sure!!
Good video couple of things I noticed. Using aluminum in place of lead for anode will both decrease time and power used in process as well as you get better results with the rit dye...(better conductor by about 8x) The pink hue your pinking up is actually the result of lead be deposited into the effluent. An aluminum piece of 18gauge plate or about the size of a license plate will have your setup purring.
How and when would I add the RIT dye?
Super informative! If I ever wanted to try this, you definitely took a lot of the mystery out of it. Thanks!
Im a level 2 plater, anodizer, eloctroplate, electropolish, and passivater. Love seeing people enjoying these processes at home! I had the joy of doing this on a large scale with 1000 gallon tanks of acid and cyanide.
I start on Monday at a place that does that on a larger line and a smaller line. Have anything I should know before I start
Great post sir! Quick and to the point. I have been machining parts for RC cars for a while now and have not been able to find a clear cut video outlining the process. Now I have so I am super stoked!
Repeatability is everything... You nailed it. Love the colors.
Really cool. I love that blue! Well done :)
BLUE !! Red would look pretty cool too !
Need a red one, need a red one, need a red one, oh and yellow:)
DANG!! Those parts look really good! You've put in a lot of work to get the process down to excellent results. Thanks for the video.
I actually used to work at a professional anodizing shop, we use that green Scotch-Brite for everything sanding cleaning... You can even get the white pads that are little bit finer. We went through cases of the stuff.
Love the white ones.
If you see this although 4 years later, could you reply as I have a few questions I need help with
Those look AWESOME! Really proud of having helped you starting if this is the result!!!
thanks for your video, it really did help break the fear.
Agreed.
Who are you? You didn't help me. Grab a quarter and call you mom collect. What a banana!
Beautiful! I see how you analyzed the process and took the best bits from Giaco's video and a couple of the comments, along with some good tips and dyes from Caswell.
Folks...this is the best home-brew anodizing video I've seen!
Agreed
Wow, what an interesting process. Never would have guessed how this was done. Great information.
today is a good day to dye
And the day is not over yet.
Spoken like a true Klingon!
What are you waiting for? Do it.
When you know the reason why
Or dye trying.
55 years ago when I was 10 years old I got a anodizing/plating kit for Christmas. It came from a toy store. I copper plated nickels, and nickel plated pennies.
I remember playing with Mercury in science class with our bare hands, LOL.
Man O Man, now you have me wondering what I can build from Aluminum that I can anodize with those cool colors.
It is really hard to pick which one is nicer. Green is my favorite color, but that blue is beautiful too.
I really enjoy your videos brother, and I always pick up useful information.
One of the best channels on the net.
(Whoever clicked the thumbs-down button should go smash their head against the wall.)
Come on man don't use solid colors paint it on sassy cooler 👌 use them all you should see my fly reels
i can't say I'll ever be anodizing, but I love anodized parts on my bike and I've always been curious how this works. Awesome coverage of the basics and how to start! Thank you!
Thought the same thinking of anodized stem for the tube.
Also, furies are weird af: Easily the weirdest kink
This video is fantastic. Thank you for giving a clear, detailed explanation of your process!
Mate that was a great how to video. Watched a lot of anodizing videos and yours is one of the best. thanks. Now it's off to the shed and get cracking.
Your care for the environment is to be commended, but it is totally safe to neutralize sulfuric acid with sodium bicarbonate and then dump it down the drain. The remaining salt will be sodium sulfate, which is nontoxic.
Problem is the lead that is dissolved into the acid, which does not get neutralised with the acid, and which then is present in the sewer system and contaminates downstream. Small amounts no real worry ( especially as many places have lead present in the water already from either natural sources or lead pipes) but large amounts are a concern.
I don't think there would be enough leeched into the water from this process, there's not enough water there to be a concern anyway. If he lives in a city, the water treatment plant would get it out of there anyway, and if not there's for sure more lead in the local waters due to fishing weights.
Thats the reason why i wouldn t recommend using sulfuric Acid from batteries, just buy diluted sulfuric acid and then theres no problem.
My gravel driveway works great for getting rid of acid. Limestone gravel.
My Motorbike batteries always came with the sulfuric acid in a separate capsule to be added before replacing the old battery. That seems fairly safe to use... obviously used battery acid may not be such a great idea o.O
Totally impressed, thank you for providing so much detail. Fantastic job. I cannot wait to start anodizing my parts. I prefer the blue.
Thanks so much! This was the very first video I've ever watched on anodizing and will definitely be trying it in my shop!
that green is freaking amazing
8:00 The supervisor dashes in to make sure Health & Safety is being observed and asking for kibble.
Thanks for explaining the process. I'm finally getting a professional finish. I'm amazed at how easy this was after I figured it out. This video was a huge help. I've always loved the look of anodizing and I'm stoked to be able to do it on my parts. It's addictive! Thanks!
I enjoy the passion you put in to it . Very committed to all the process, excellent video .
WARNING- I forgot to mention its very important to always add acid to water when mixing your anodizing tank. Adding water to acid could cause the water to boil and splash back at you.
In this video I sealed my parts using distilled water. This method is not ideal because it takes along time (30-60min) in boiling water. also some of the dye may soak out because of the extend time in the water. A better option is to use nickel acetate which will help plug the pores and seal the part much more quickly (10-30min).
Good advice, altho you should be ok with battery acid as it's already diluted with water :)
ShopBuilt hydrogen extremely explosive. May be best to do it outside.
cody's lab already busted that myth there is no diffrence if you add acid to water
A Lind try it and see.
A Lind then I question Cody's approach. There's a violent reaction either way but what do you want being violently splashed all around, a solution that's mostly water or a solution that's mostly acid?
I like how you should some of your trouble shooting pieces at the end. That will help a lot! Very well done
Great video! Very informative and got me ready to tackle a few projects. Thank you for taking the time to do this.
I have just discovered this channel and I am amazed by the depth of skill and attention to detail. I am looking forward to be a regular here.
I think ShopBuilt rinsed with water after the baking soda dunk. Another degreaser is acetone which evaporates quickly. It will dissolve all organics which could block the dye transfer. The acid solution can be neutralized with baking soda. The baking soda rinse will help but you probably will need more. Get some pH paper and neutralize until pH = 7. The solution should not be a slurry. That would tend to be basic. pH paper will show this. Great video!
Actually, contact your waste water department about the waste dilute battery acid. I used to run a factory heat treating operation. We used HCl acid to split oil out of our wash water. The waste department approved us to dump directly in the waste stream. They actually liked the idea. You see, waste water in a city sewer system is very alkali due to all the soaps used for normal household cleaning. The treatment plant has to add acid to neutralize it before treating it so it doesn't kill all their bugs. Any acid you add just reduces how much they have to add. Again, check with your local waste department to verify these facts.
Interesting, I'll look into that, thanks.
There are tons of cleaners that are acid based too that go into the water or storm water system. A bucket of diluted battery acid is nothing to worry about.
Consider that the acid here is most likely sulphuric although not specified and further it most likely contains heavy metal contamination.
The Tap water pH where I live is between 7.5 and 8.2. Five gallons will dilute. I'd be more worried about my drain pipes getting cleaned from oil and corrosion. lol (sarcasm)
Just check the pH to see if it close to the tap water in your area if you plan to dump after neutralizing (VMF)
Love the video man. We get a lot of stuff anodised by professionals but its still great o see the process and understand it. Great work!
Blue looks amazing. Thanks for the video with your trouble shooting tips. With the aluminum you can strip by using etch but you need a dioxide bath for de-smutting. Best way to strip the aluminum is to use the dioxide bath. But the real intriguing part was that you found neutralizing the acid before dying was a good result. The shop that I work in uses to big rents tanks and I find out that we have a lot of drag out. So I think I'll borrow your tip of neutralizing using an alkaline soap. Thank you so much for your video.
I do this as a job. Nice job man. The tanks I use are literally 6ft by 12ft full of 10% sulphuric acid.
(Friendly heads up for folks trying this at home) Sanding down that lead flashing's coating for use as the cathode exposes you to lead particulates and can increase your risk of cancer so wearing a respirator mask is very highly recommended as well as cleaning up the resulting dust thoroughly to avoid further exposure down afterwards. Stay safe everyone!
Plus always wear gloves when handling lead - lead can transfer through your skin into your bloodstream...
are you aware the material used for toothpaste tubes in the 60s 70s?
"stay safe everyone" God how I despise self proclaimed SAFETY PUSSIES like you ! ............I bet you wear protective gloves to wipe your ass !!
he didnt say sand the lead down, the sanding was only if you choose to use aluminum as the cathode.
@@alexmarkgz5939 Yes, fools rush in where Angels fear to tread! Idiot!
Both colors came out very well. I generally would prefer the blue however, that tone of green came out especially well and for me, hedges out the blue on this round. Nice job on both!
My daughter and I really like the blue color!!!! We enjoyed watching!
Ryan! You ok??? We need a ShopBuilt fix! Don't make us beg, man! :)
I like the blue better.But the green is nice to. Great video. Thanks for the info
For we who are about to dye...
We salute you!
hope you are doing well and can't wait to hear form you again as your channel was one of my favorites god bless brother take care
Great video! Have always wanted to anodize aluminum parts. This may be the incentive I need to carry thru on that. Thanks. Like the blue, by the way. I'm red/green colorblind so the green looks like bronze to me. My color of choice will be black.
You can neutralize the battery acid (typically sulfuric acid) with the baking soda (sodium bicarbonate). You can also use lye (sodium hydroxide), just be careful. Your best bet would be to dissolve it in water first and add it slowly since neutralizing a strong acid with a strong base will produce heat and can result in the solution popping/splattering. Also be careful dissolving the lye as it is an exothermic process that can produce enough heat to soft boil an egg.
Excellent, excellent video. Clear, with fine production values and very good information. Thank you.
Really informative and very interesting. I love the look of anodized aluminum. I'm not sure if I will ever do this, but I try to learn about something every day. It keeps the mind sharp. The green definitely is my favorite and, actually, that shade is the same color as my jeep, seriously lol.
I'm going to attempt anodizing a milled lower receiver.
i literally came from a 80% lower milling video to this one with the same idea haha. If you do yours first let me know how it turns out if you use this method.
I did as well, any update?
@@apmechanic7704 Same here. I want to anodize the part of the AR lower that was machined to give a nicer appearance.
You mean your "friends" lower receiver that you heard about through a relative ?
@@slipknnnot Yes, that's what I 'really' meant to say. Thanks.
Awesome tutorial! I really love guides by people who are not experts yet but have found what works. It seems much more attainable that way, for me anyway.
Question: what do you do with the parts that have blemishes from the process? Can those be reprocessed somehow? Perhaps sanded down or otherwise prepared for redying?
You can strip the anodization and redo it.
Wow. The finished parts look fantastic!
That was amazing! I will try this to anodize some bicycle parts. Thank you for sharing.
"These parts have been in the boiling water for fifteen minutes"...lifts them out by hand and touches them :D
Great information. I have some fab'ed aluminum parts that I want to anodize.
They are aluminum...
Etching greatly increases the surface area and makes anodized parts far more scratch resistant
I've wondered how the anodizing process was done. Thanks for showing us !
REALLY helpful and informative - THANKS! Teaching by example is the best way.
Hey bud, great video. Never knew i would be so interested in something that i have no use for..lol but it was fun to watch. I have to say GREEN. The blue reminds me of Kreg products. I think green should be your " staple " company color. Ah! Idk, do you have any other colors you could try? How would you go about doing larger jobs? Same setup just on a larger scale, or do things change dramatically due to the size, or mass of the object? I apologize for all the questions. Kinda geeking out right now. Thanks for sharing your video. Big thumbs up!!👍
Blue! But..... I would love to have a red one
Thank you. great vid. Short and to the point, no rambling, I cant stand people waffling on about nonsense.
Yours came out loads better than mine. Prep for finish is everything!!
I like the Blue, but I agree with other commenters saying it looks like Kreg or even Rockler, so I'll side with the Green to differentiate it from that. You should do a special Limited Run of Mathias Green as well if he doesn't mind. lol.
Blue... but the Green one is nice to
If you have to explain to someone that they need to use PPE when dealing with acids, then you would probably need to explain what PPE is. It's like those signs that people print and stick up in the work lunchroom "Wash your own dishes" the sort of person that is too lazy to wash their dishes are usually the type that don't obey signs. Good video though. I have always been curious about doing your own anodizing. Not curious enough to actually do it, but curious enough to watch your video :0)
Good work man. On an industrial scale they have a few more steps and all the chemistry is tested in a lab on site (what I do for a living) glad to see a video with someone who knows what they're talking about! You wouldn't believe all the misinformation floating around out there.
Impressive, loved both colors. Thanks for sharing.
Forgot to ask you how can i buy one of your stops? And do you sell the rail setup, or do i use a generic track? Also, is there some type of marker on it to stop it accurately time after time with no hassle? Any info would be great. Thanks
Not for sale yet as because i'm going from getting all the parts made locally to making everything in my shop. hopefully soon. will work with generic track. yes there is a curser. Thanks for the support!!
ShopBuilt contact me grant.l.mara808@gmail.com
Could u andodize my dirt bike radiator guards covor gold ? I can send u photo it both could fit in 5 gal bucket no problem
ShopBuilt if i send u parts can u anodize it ? Ill pay lmk bro thank u
Where have you gone???????
Very cool. I think a person can really make a project look sharp with this process.
The green's a beautiful olive colour. Thank you for the amazing information.👍
Well done. Great tutorial. I'm anodizing professionally but it's always interesting to think about how you could do things, without the professional equipement.
Just some thoughts from my side: So we are driving by voltage not by current - it's not the perfect way, but you don't have to care about your surface area. We should have about the same concentration of sulforicacid, so that would give you about 0.5um oxide layer per minute (@16V @Roomtemperature) - which in 'reallife' of course depends on various things, like alloy, Al concetration in the bath, etc..
To increase the hardness you could cool down your bath. But 'hard anodized' pieces are difficult to colour. On the other hand you can extend the anodization time (10-20um = 20-40min) to get deeper pores, which then can contain more dyes.
Just some ideas. ;)
Awesome thanks for the extra info!
Hi Dominik if i have a piece with 74 inc2 how much current i have to apply?
Your waste disposal people may not want to take waste from a business. If it's a problem, baking soda and the drain is a perfectly acceptable alternative (better solution below.) The solution should contain only acid - the lead doesn't react with sulfuric acid (it used to be used as a container for it, believe it or not) and the aluminum ions that are produced in anodizing react immediately with hydroxide ions in the solution to produce aluminum oxide as the fundamental part of the anodizing reaction.
Adding baking soda creates a solution of sodium sulfate, which is nontoxic and water soluble. At that point you just need to wash it down the drain with lots of water. A cheap alternative, if you're in limestone country, would be to just put a bunch of limestone gravel in the bucket and wait a week with occasional stirring. This will produce calcium sulfate, which is also nontoxic but only barely soluble in water. The liquid could go down the drain and the solids would be fine in the garbage. Calcium sulfate is gypsum - you'd essentially be making your own plaster/drywall.
Were I live the auto parts stores can take it and recycle it for free. Same with used oil..) Be environmentally smart and be safe
Very interesting, Rit dyes fade when exposed to sunlight, and the neutralizing with a baking Soda solution is of great importance. Caswell dyes work the best.
I learned so much watching this, thank you!
You can take the aluminium TIG rod over to a bench vice, clamp it, then use an angle grinder to take the oxide coating off so you can use it again.
You can strip anno off by soaking it in lye. Liquid draino used to be an easy source but its been years since I've annoed and have heard they changed the formula so check.
Maybe just reverse the polarity of the electrical source.
Nice vid, thanks. But where did you get the "oids"? Anode and cathode. No "i"s
:-p
That bothered me, but then again "battery acid" did as well. Ehh whatever, I make up or butcher words all the time.
I think it's an Americanism, I've heard other Americans pronounce cathode the same way. It's like the way they pronounce "Emu", most Americans pronounce it "E-moo"
@@darkknight145 Idk because this is my first time watching one of this guy's videos but he sounds Canadian. I've never heard anyone pronounce it -oid and I'm American.
@@darkknight145 It’s definitely not an Americanism. (Pro tip: 99% of the time, when a non-American suspects something is an Americanism, it’s not, but is just someone who got it wrong, and it is just as wrong in American English.)
Straight to the point no BS,Good vid-plus showing defect parts
Very informative, however this video made it clear I have no desire to anodize at home. Thank you and keep up the great work!
Blue
The other advantage to using titanium wire, is if contact is accidentally broken. If contact is broken, aluminum wire will anodize over and never reestablish contact as the aluminum oxide is an insulator. Also, your parts should be sealed in Nickel Acetate, not boiling water. It protects the color better.
Let me know if you have any other questions. I ran an anodizing business for a couple years. It sounds like you already found yourself the best online resource, the Caswell forum.
The Noob Woodworker i
hello colleague
Boiling water works well. It’s also much safer.
For what he is doing, I really wouldn't suggest nickel acetate , stick to hot water , the hotter the better!
Many projects on the bench, but I would like to try this. Good introduction.
Thanks for giving your time and experimenting different ways to have that perfect Finnish, and sharing with us. Turned out great! Good job! Regards john
So it was after I took the process out on the patio, heating the dye and water, wearing gloves and a respirator, that I noticed the neighbor kids were having a birthday party. They were staring at me; all of them. I had lye, battery acid, an *ancient* battery charger, and a 5 gal. Lowe's bucket with an aquarium pump duct taped to the side. " Officer, this is not what it looks like... "
LMAO. HOW DID THE PARTS COME OUT ?
@@NoWr2Run Awful, needed more power. Restricted from that by virtue of a little incident in the basement with my micro H2 gen experiment. She was not impressed...
wish you’d get back to producing CZcams vids .. take care .. hope all is well
Great video & can't wait to try some. Just happened to have a salvaged adjustable power supply.
Can adjust voltage & current. Thanks!! Doing plating too.
Great video! Now I have to try that. I do some plating but I’ve stayed away from anodizing because it seemed too hazardous and a pain in the ass. Your parts look great too!!!
i always wondered how they anodize aluminum. thanks. and blue.
thank you shopbuilt for taking the time to post awesome videos! much better than that pewdiepie shit!
Lol no problem man:)
Where the hell have you gone!!!!!????
I really miss your videos. My favourite for some years
Both blue and green look awesome! Thnx✌
Btw, hydrogen is totally non-toxic. You can breathe it with zero problems. It is dangerous due to flamibility concerns.
When mixed with oxygen, it is the single most explosively energetic fuel known to mankind. Since it is lighter than air, it collects on your ceiling, near spark sources like lights and fans, and burns with a invisible flame as hot as a welding torch, or detonates explosively. The molecule is small, so it leaks between the atoms of most plastics, meaning you can't contain the gas with those materials. Outside is a good choice. You want to avoid anywhere above where the hydrogen can collect.
I like the purple one you haven’t made yet 🤣
Oh wow, I never thought anodizing would be that easy. I might give it a try some day :)
Nice video. I thought the color was electroplated on. I had no idea it was done this way. I have everything I need already so thanks for explaining it. I'm super stoked to give it a try on my aluminum parts. Thanks!