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That green is gorgeous!!

I was intrigued on how your jig works on the inside, glad you take it apart. I learn something from it. Thanks!.

Been trying to come up with something, felt like banging my head against the wall 😂 this is brilliant mate definitely getting it done now, 👍👍👍

It’s ANODE NOT ANNOID CATHODE NOT CATHOID

Have you made plans for it? I’d love to convert an old not quick version to your version. Very nice

Very informative video! Thanks for that. What is the name of the electrical supply box that u r using so i can order the same?

Amazing video bro! Best results I’ve seen so far

UGH. Now I want to get into machining just so I can anodize that green color! I know this isn't the only video on the topic, but I appreciated the "beginners view" on the process and potential hurdles!

Great video and super helpful. I build custom folding knives and I'm now doing a steam-punk series. With a need for a little color and how easy aluminum machine, you just added to my list of possibilities. Thanks again. you're a very talented guy. <><

Very interesting. I'm going to have to try this. I repurpose metal to use in art, sculpture etcetera and would love to color it. Not worried about imperfections in the color either as it could be hidden or used for visual interest. Mostly use aluminum. Heidi

Well done. Thanks

I can't choose, I like them both.

maybe some locktite?

I want to do this to some aluminum extrusions, but they are quite a bit larger.

Btw, there's no need to heat the acid solution, unless the goal is keeping at an exact temperature for reproducible results. Cooler temperatures allow for thicker coatings. (Type III/hard anodizing takes place at around 0°C. Same chemicals and process, though much higher currents.)

FYI standard practice in chemistry labs (at least back when I was a chem major for a couple years) for non-environmentally hazardous chemicals is indeed to neutralize and pour down drain when feasible. (Actually, even for "hazardous" ones, if you can fairly easily react them to turn them into something non-hazardous. Hazardous chemical disposal is expensive.) Baking soda would work, but I'd just titrate in a diluted sodium hydroxide solution (I assume most people have it around for cleaning or etching metal if doing this.)

You need more tools

Come back bro! It’s been too long, your content is outstanding. Hope all is well! 👍🏼

Marvelous Idea! I modified it slightly by using toggle clamps. Key finding: make sure clamps are good and tight especially on long pieces. The only simpler method is adding a shim the thickness of the blade behind the mortise piece (remove for tennon) The problem is finding flat stock of exactly the right thickness.

PERFECT! I JUST finished 3 weeks of adding drawers to my workbench, and was looking for a divider system that was simple, tidy, modular, and that doesn't use fasteners or glue. Bingo - this was it! Thank you!

According to OSHA, battery acid can be safely neutralized with a dilution of baking soda or soda ash (one pound per gallon of water)

Thanks for sharing. Just landing on this video after reading on reddit that you can't use a heat gun for edge banding. 😄 Great jig.

Hydrogen gas is not corrosive but is highly explosive. An approximately 50:50 Hydrogen:Air mix is as explosive as dynamite. Hydrogen being the lightest element will collect in the roof space so keep room well ventilated. It should only be a problem if you are anodizing lots of components.

Generally Never skip the lye etch bath, even if it's just a few seconds it's better than not at all since it removes grease where you can't get to it properly with soap and it removes old oxide and you can polish it after a long lye bath then take a short dip before the acid bath

Thank you. great vid. Short and to the point, no rambling, I cant stand people waffling on about nonsense.

Cool Idea thanks for sharing

The thing I love about this is that the design is so simple and efficient that I feel I could make one. It would be silly not to try this.

That’s a great idea, being able to take reference from the mortise. Thanks for sharing your design!

You are a freakin genius!

Killer Video💯 I just taught myself how to make Photo-Etch scale model parts at home & found a few similarities in process & Equipment used. ❓❓Question❓❓ 👉The largest parts I’ll want to anodize is 1:25 scale. 👇🏻 📍[Less than 1” in size] With that in mind could a much smaller size container be used (rather than that 5-Gallon bucket]❓❓ 📍Again Excellent Inst Video & Thank-U very much for the valuable Content Info, as well as the easy to follow delivery🤩 My ADHD 🧠 gave it 5⭐️’s 👉I’ll be posting a How-2-Video of that Photo-Etch aka: P/E process on my CZcams Channel 🔜 if interested. Respectfully, Lee aka:ZenModeling☯️

Very impressive

Awesome.

You are great!!! Each creation is a small masterpiece. Estimate👍🏼😎

Excellent, thanks

1:39 Anoide and Cathoide?

Feel free to use the neutralizing of the acid then drain. The baking soda will dissolve in the acid and weaken the acid. when the baking soda stops reacting (add small amounts) then you can verify with some litmus paper, but the result is not a slurry, but a liquid with a Ph near that of water.

Nice simple practical useful approach.

Your blade is set to high, second your are limited to the thickness of your material being cut, third you can’t add on a dado blade to thin of pvc, can’t drop your riven blade for a sled to use.

Yes baking soda does neutralize it,

The video became useless when you did that stupid speeded up section. It’s almost as if you don’t want anyone else to be able to build the same vice. Just another disingenuous show and tell. And there’s a few of you out there on CZcams.

Diamond Lapping paste mixed with oil gives you the preferred surface finish/texture for good Anodising. Do it on a flat Marble surface, in a circular motion for best results at Home (Not many people have a rotary Lapping M/c'.) You don't need a lot of paste, but plenty of Oil. I was an Inspector, now retired for the Hydraulic, weapons handling & weapons firing systems for HM's Nuclear Submarines. Almost all of the Aluminium body parts were either, Anodised or Hard Anodised.

Green? Gaaagack! The blue rocks. Just kidding… the green is pretty cool too. Thanks for posting this, I have always wanted to do this and didn’t have a clue as to what types of dye were used.

That is a REALLY set up. Looks fairly straight forward build. And I LOVE the miter saw clamp use. I too have never used mine. (So if I can just find it!?! I'll be golden!! 🤣

Fantastic little jig. Thanks for putting this out on YT

does the water pump get worn of over time from the sulfuric acid?

6:42 I know this is an older video but what if you began the process at a lower amperage then adjusted to a higher one to add durability? Would that leach the dye out or seal it in?

Making set up blocks for the future would speed future set up

I made flanges for dust collection and put them on my machines. I cover 6 machines with 1 hose.

I see you get defects and I doubt you want to discard the blemished parts so is it possible to strip anodizing off and then re-anodize the parts? Also you mentioned "masking" is that used to protect an area of a part you are anodizing, and how is it done?

Can you use copper wire instead of titanium?