1955 Chevy Spring Pocket Kit Install
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- čas přidán 12. 10. 2020
- Follow along with the step-by-step process I used to install a Williams Classic Chassis Works spring pocket kit on my 1955 Chevy. This modification, along with a mini-tub of the trunk, allows for wider tires to be installed, without cutting the iconic '55 Chevy rear wheel opening. NEVER CUT THE '55 CHEVY REAR WHEEL OPENING, NEVER! Everyone knows wider rear tires equals more fun, so this modification is basically required.
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I like how you explain all the steps for the install. Love your channel I am a Tri 5 guy to, I roll a 57 with a big block lots of fun.
Hell yeah Ray. Sounds like a cool car. Thanks for watching and for the input. Much appreciated.
Been looking for quite some time for a video for the spring pocket kit for my 55 Chevy sedan. Although my body is still on the frame-this gives me an idea of what I am in for lying on my back doing the same. Great job and thanks for the video, this will be a huge help when I tackle that job!!
Thanks for the kind words. Good luck with your project. I'm no expert, but hit me up if you have any questions along the way. Thanks for watching!
Looks good to me,I am 2 years into my 57 restore. Wish I would have known about the kit before I put the body back on.
Thanks man. Yeah definitely easier with the body off. Check out DD Speed Shop working on hid 56. He did it with the body on.
I have a 55 chev 2dr wagon. I moved my rear springs inboard in line with the frame. installed a one inch narrower than stock 9 inch from a 69 ford fairlane. However I never used any kind of pocket kit. I simply did the same as they did on the Popular Hotrodding 57 chevy project X.
Thanks for watching. Cool that you moved your springs the way Project X did.
Awesome Ride !!
Thanks!
U do really good work I was doing this 36 years ago when everyone else was cutting there qurter panels I had my car sitting low with my tires tucked. Any way good job. Keep up the good work
Thanks man!
Happy for you
.Funny video
Thanks Jack. Much appreciated!
I am in the middle of doing this modification , Got some great tips here , THANKS !
You bet man. Hope it helps. Thanks for watching. Reach out if you have any specific questions. Good luck!
I have a 56 Nomad; wish I had your skill set. Life would be easier. Goo job!
Thanks Glenn. I'm not sure how good my skill set is, but I do try and get by with what I know as well as continue to learn more as I go. The most important skill that I believe I have is not being afraid to try things myself, even if I don't really have the skill set for the task. Live and learn, and have fun along the way is how I see it. Enjoy the Nomad, those things are cool.
Nice video. I think I’m going to do this on my ‘55 frame.
Thanks man I hope it helps you put somehow. Good luck!
I recently acquired my Nomad “rolling project shell”. The frame rusted out and was previously patched at the forward side of the kickups (right where the springer pocket would get cut in). I could replace the frame but since this car still wears traction bars that have probably been there since the ‘60’s or ‘70’s I’ll continue the hot rod vibe but cutting in those pockets and clean up some of that previous work. The body will be off the frame so I’ll have easy access for the work.
Looking good man, nice work.
Thanks Lonnie. Much appreciated!
Looking good 👍
Thanks 👍
this is a very help full video , i have had the pol kit like this that i am going to put in my 55 ragtop project's chassis , while the body is on the sedan chassis.
Thanks man. Good luck with the project. Ask away if I can help at all. 👊
Nice Video! In your opinion is this the Best Way? I look at all the Welding and Cutting and wonder if it can't be simplified. For the Rear just cut a Hole 1/4" from the bottom of the Frame Rail, Insert some Heavy Wall Tube and Weld around it. Insert the Rubber Insert & Bolts. Shackle Brackets can have multiple Holes for different Height Adjustment. The front could have a Heavy Wall Tube Welded to a piece of U Shaped Square Tube that just Slides up on the Outside of the Frame Rail that could be Welded or Bolted on. It will drop the Front Spring Hole Centerline an Inch from Stock. Save a lot of Cutting and Weakening of the Frame.
I am sure there are multiple ways to do this. This just seemed like a good way for me to accomplish it without too much fabrication wok, and it is proven to work. I am having a hard time picturing your option for the front,. The idea for the back seems feasible, except that without nothing the frame I think you would raise the rear of the car, which may or may not be an issue depending on the look/build you're going for. Thanks for watching. Good luck with this id you tackle it. Keep me posted how you did it and how it works. I'm always eager to learn. 👊
I had a torn hole like yours in the back of my shacke mount on my 55. I reshaped with some 1/8 plate and welded it right in and it looks alot better now. Try using some MAP gas in your hand propane torch. If you clamped an angle bracket behind it after heating it up with the MAP gas it will shape easier when you hit it with a hammer. You will hear the difference. I had a similar bend in my frame area probably from a tow job at one time in the cars life. I was thinking if mounting the springs inboard or maybe a 4 link but keep it stock for now! However; I added a disk kit to the rear. Great job BTW.
Yeah I need to get a for real cutting torch set up. A little heat goes a long way when you gotta massage that thicker metal. Haven't tried the MAP gas, but will next time if I don't have a torch yet. Thanks for the advice.
looks good
Thanks man. I'm trying over here...
I work with telephony equipment and grounds are very picky. What we commonly do is called a common ground. Ground everything to the same point.
Having different grounding points can create low voltage AC voltages in the system.
Don’t know if that will help, but it may.
Thanks for the tip!
Gatta ask - Have you given it any thought about moving the rear diff back about 5/8 " to give a little more tire room at the front of your wheel opening for bigger tires and it centers the wheel in the opening? - This can still be done with staggering the holes in lowering blocks if you wanted.
I didn't realize the wheels weren't centered in the opening as stock. Sounds like a really good idea. I'll definitely be looking into that. Thanks for the tip man!👊
Looks good. Just found your channel. 👍
Thanks man! More coming so I hope you subscribed!
Subscribed. Going to be doing my 53.
@@RGGarage Awesome. Good luck with the project!
Good rule of thumb is not to grind welds as they become weakened, under frame you don’t see it anyway, good luck on channel,
Great point! Sometimes I can't help myself because I want it to look better. I think there was still plenty of weld around the pockets to maintain strength, but will probably take your advice an any future frame/suspension/kinda important welded areas. Thanks for watching!
Just wondering if some one could do video on Earl Williams , gas tank centering brackets install there are no videos out on this product
I was looking into the gas tank centering kit a while back. I'll check it out again, and definitely do a video on it if I decide to use it. Thanks for watching!
i was looking into doing a pocket kit on my 56 hardtop and was wondering what the new leaf spring center spacing is after the pocket kit is installed. Thanks Ryan.
I haven't installed the leaf springs yet. Are you talking center of leaf to center of leaf across the car? If so, it should basically be center of frame to center of frame. I don't know that number off hand, but can measure it for you if you would like. Or, I can chime back in once I actually install the leafs (haven't ordered them yet...) Thanks for watching and for the question.
Ya the frame centers would be the same. Thanks
@@ryanengland7974 Seems like it. I'd be glad to get you something more specific if you need. Hit me up anytime!
should of left old hanger on for a guide
Probably wouldn't have been a bad idea... Thanks for watching.