Part 1 Predator 670 GP TSF 2021 Pressure Washer Build with Honda Fuel Pump Replacement
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- čas přidán 15. 11. 2022
- Predator 670 GP TSF 2021 Pressure Washer Build Part 1
with Honda Fuel Pump Replacement
Predator 670 GP TSF 2021 Pressure Washer Build Part 2:
• Part 2 Predator 670 GP...
Watch both videos before building to learn from mistakes made along the way and how they were corrected or can be done better.
Majority of the parts:
Russ Johnson
Southside Equipment
(502) 504-5454
russ@pressurewasherky.us
www.pressurewasherky.us/
Engine:
www.harborfreight.com/22-hp-6...
Honda Fuel Pump:
a.co/d/1uNtCr5
Marine Battery:
www.walmart.com/ip/131118029
Battery Box:
www.walmart.com/ip/16781380
Saw Horses:
www.harborfreight.com/31-in-p...
Engine Oil:
www.walmart.com/ip/17034353
Engine Oil Filter:
www.walmart.com/ip/16878929
Water Pump Oil:
www.walmart.com/ip/52626201
Vacuum Guage:
a.co/d/cv51eEN - Jak na to + styl
Predator 670 GP TSF 2021 Pressure Washer Build Part 1
with Honda Fuel Pump Replacement
Predator 670 GP TSF 2021 Pressure Washer Build Part 2:
czcams.com/video/gHS0hfmVD-0/video.html
Watch both videos before building to learn from mistakes made along the way and how they were corrected or can be done better.
Majority of the parts:
Russ Johnson
Southside Equipment
(502) 504-5454
russ@pressurewasherky.us
www.pressurewasherky.us/
Engine:
www.harborfreight.com/22-hp-670cc-v-twin-horizontal-shaft-gas-engine-epa-61614.html
Honda Fuel Pump:
a.co/d/1uNtCr5
Marine Battery:
www.walmart.com/ip/131118029
Battery Box:
www.walmart.com/ip/16781380
Saw Horses:
www.harborfreight.com/31-in-pvc-folding-sawhorse-350-lb-capacity-61979.html
Engine Oil:
www.walmart.com/ip/17034353
Engine Oil Filter:
www.walmart.com/ip/16878929
Water Pump Oil:
www.walmart.com/ip/52626201
Vacuum Guage:
a.co/d/cv51eEN
Thanks for the link from FB. Appreciate the help! Good vids!
Paint the pump mounting plate and tension plate or it will rust. This is if it's bare metal with blue or black thin finish.
21:26 Fuel Pump Swap Start
Looks like the main advantage of the upgraded pump base of the factory one is using it with the tensioner. Is that right? Do you think you could achieve the correct tension with the factory mount by hand? Like you would do on an air compressor.
The custom bracket is going to have less play than the factory because the custom has one single hole for the 4 holes on the skid side while the factory has slots. I think it'll mostly come into play while the pump is going.
You can skip the washers if you use the flanged head screws. They are the way to go in most cases.
It's the stuff Russ sent me when I ordered the diy build kit. Where are you speaking of using them at?
@@MannyWashes In place of lock washers. Lock washers don't really prevent loosening. Larger flat washers are for load distribution to keep the bolt head from collapsing what it's clamping, so by all means continue using the larger washers. But if the washer is about the same diameter as the bolt head, just using a flanged screw seems to make life easier.
It's not wrong to use lock washers. It just that there are other ways to go that are either more effective or easier to do.
If you are concerned about loosening, I'd strongly recommend the Nord Lock washers. It's the *only* locking washer style setup I've found that absolutely resists loosening due to vibration. They're even meter than Spiralock IMHO.
@@MannyWashes Pump mounts to the bracket. Don't worry about your rig-- it's gtg. Just keep on eye on those lockwashers on the pump mount and make sure they stay tight.
Do you reckon you can make your own frame? What is the thickness of the frame metal? How long are the tension slots?
I'm away from the machine right now but I'll take those measurements for you when I get back. But yeah the frame can be home made.
@@MannyWashes Would help to know the frame face's length x width, as well as, the pulley gap, belt type, and bushing dimensions. I'm shipping in a used 6.9 cast iron pulley but don't know what bushing goes in it yet.
@@velvetypotato711 Skid footprint is 27-1/8" x 12-3/8"
The mounting surface is 27-1/8" x 9-3/4". This is without the leg portion where the skid mounting bolt are.
Skid height is 1-1/2"
Skid thickness looks to be 3/16"
The engine shaft to pump shaft is 13" on center with the pump tighten into position. Pump is tighten about 3/8" to the right so I'd assume the pre-tension distance is 12-5/8"
Belt is a D&D Power Drive 4/3VX435
Engine bushing is 1" SH type
Pump bushing is 24mm SK type
The vendor should be able to tell you what is the proper bushing for that pulley you're having shipped.
The 4 slots opening on the skid for the pump mount mounting bolts are 1" long. Bolts are 3/8"-16 x 1" so the slot opening needs to be just wide enough to accommodate 3/8" bolts. Keeping a tight tolerance on the opening with should also help with pump alignment.
From the right face of the skid going left the slot starts at 2-5/8" then since it's 1" long continues to 3-5/8". The bolts are 4-1/2" apart so the next slot starts at 7-1/8" to 8-1/8". I can't visually verify the 2nd set of slots because everything is mounted and bolted to the trailer.
The distance between front slot to back slots is 5-5/8" on center.
So back slot is 1-5/8" on center from the rear of skid mounting surface and front slot is 7-1/4" on center from the rear of the skid mounting surface.
Yes the tension plate underneath the skid is to tension the belt easily. But tightening the 4 mounting bolts are what really keep the pump in place to the skid preventing backing out. If there were two tension bolts on the side of the skid then I would say it was for alignment too but there's only 1. Also that tension bolt is 3/8"-16 x 6" and it uses a cage nut that clips onto the tension plate.
@@velvetypotato711 I would think it would be best to get all the holes on the skid for the pump squared away first then adjust the engine position to line up with the pump then mark the holes to be made for the engine. The back of the motor cover lines up with the back of the pump.
The bushing for the pump doesn't have much room for adjustment as to it's location on the shaft so most of the pulley adjustment to line them up is going to be done on the engine bushing.
Hi many how are you
I’m sorry to bother you but I have a question for you again
I’m trying to put my pressure washer together but I’m having hard time to find out about the size of the bolts of a tws 8030 comet pump
I don’t really know the size of those bolts
Maybe I can find them on the hardware store or lowes
Do you have any suggestions
Alright so I didn't find a straight out answer like you were looking for. I did compare the parts exploded view of your pump and my GP TSF2021. Given that most of the screws in the same location of the two pumps have the same thread diameter but different lengths I'm guna go with that the mounting bolt holes on the bottom are also M10. The TSF2021 came with M10x18mm according to the manual and Russ sent me M10x20mm for me to use with his mounting bracket instead of using the bracket that came with the pump. So I'm guna say yours is also M10 and probably the 18-20mm length but I'd double check that if I were you. If you have a stick to put it in the hole then measure it and convert it to metric should give you the maximum bolt length. If you're between lengths then I'd probably say go a size smaller but also remember to include the thickness of the mounting bracket when considering the length of bolt.
I'm looking at Lowe's and I would just say make sure that the threads are the whole length of the bolts and don't forget locking washers
Could also use hex cap bolts which is what came with the GP pump and Russ sent me hex bolts.
Ok thank you for your help
I’m going to Lowe’s tomorrow to see if I can find the bolts
I appreciate that you answered my questions
@@melvinn5293 let me know if those do turn out being the ones. Good luck.
Any reason you went belt over gear drive?
Misinformation sorta. If you watch towards the end of the 2nd part I think I said if I did it again I'd probably do gear reduction driven. When I was first researching this stuff I was finding that the belt drive was highly recommended that it is quieter(maybe), I think not as harsh of a start on the water pump(maybe), if the belt breaks it's a cheaper replacement (true) compared to if a gearbox breaks. And I'm not sure what else but also I believe that's what Russ only sells. Russ isn't that great at upselling but I feel he's good at information and recommendations.
The pros from the gear set up is that it only 4 parts you're really putting together, the skid plate, engine, gearbox and water pump. The gear setup has a smaller footprint for it's overall size. I think it uses the same skid plate size as a 4gpm belt drive just used in a perpendicular direction. I believe I've seen it mentioned on two CZcams channels that there's less loss of power from the gears because belt flexes and maybe in the smallest minute amount slips but it's not something that can be see to the eye. I don't remember if you get more psi or gpm or both from not having that power loss.
Cons: I recommend having the pump supported, the "pressure washers channel" on CZcams on one of his videos shows a type of support, that way the pump isn't just free hanging off the motor from the bolts. Also on the same CZcams channel in the same or different video it's recommended to use RTV sealant to prevent water from getting in between the engine output shaft and where it slides into the input gear. The reasoning is because if water gets into there then the shaft will rust weld to the input gear making it difficult to remove the gearbox if you ever have to take it off. I don't remember if it was the same channel or the "house washing" channel that kinda recommends making like a foam gasket to prevent water from getting into the gearbox housing in the first place. Another con is if a gear breaks then you have to replace the whole gearbox because I don't think the gear is sold alone or if the housing cracks and leaks oil. That can probably shut you down until you get another one if you don't have one on hand. Another slight con is you have too carry a 3rd separate oil, engine, gearbox and pump. But yeah with those cons idk how often gearboxes actually break down so they may be theoretical cons. I also don't know how long belts last so I'll find out.
Either choice is guna work for you but the power lose might be a deciding factor. How much of a lose is it , idk. I feel like there's a video out there comparing the two but I don't remember. But yeah I think now there's 3 belt drive build videos on CZcams and two gear drivers on CZcams with sometimes other videos giving you some tips how to do things better.
@@MannyWashes I have one of Heath Phelps 6.8gpm budget builds and trying to decide on adding another one of those and Siamese them together or go with your build. But if U have two of the same setup as I'll plenty of backup parts. I did see where Kentucky Wash pros\ Jeremy swapped his 10gpm predator system from belt to gear driven but I'm not sure why. Thanks for the quick response and detailed explanation.
@@shauncrochet7934 I looked back at Jeremy's comments and I found one saying that gearbox is easier to work for him and that he didn't have any experience with belt drive. Philip Prc's comment.
czcams.com/video/v5TYtRRfV_o/video.html
Yeah I can see how that's tough to decide. It does make it easier to order and have parts on hand having both the same machine. But then again could have a machine with more gpm output. I know like Mike carmody has a 8 and 10 gpm machine. I just starting see videos pop up for another guy out of Dallas also having an 8 and 10. I usually see when guys have two machines they have 8 and 10. The "pressure washers channel" I believe he has two 8 gpms and he'll some times Siamese them to put out the 16gpm.
@@shauncrochet7934 czcams.com/video/NWH2pSj1oBY/video.html
This is the video with the RTV on the output shaft and the pump stabilizer mount for gear drive.
@@shauncrochet7934
czcams.com/video/5HbYcPqVa6U/video.html
This is the video of that diy silicone foam gasket I was talking about. It's at 17:41
How much Russ charge for that kit?
At the time with a few upgrades and swaps with shipping, which was about $100 , total was like $1713.
Now he has it listed on his website.
www.pressurewasherky.us/product-category/skid-build-kits/
I'd recommend against ever using a FRAM filter in anything you actually care about. Get a Mobil 1 instead.
I've been using fram xtra guard for over a decade now without issue. Now I would agree with you if it was the cheap orange filter. Wix would be my next choice.
@@MannyWashes Ah, I missed that distinction. I think the Xtras might even be made by Wix? I thought I saw some cut-opens on another channel.
I'm really watching to see how well that Predator holds up for you, as I've heard a lot of good things.
to make a long story longer...
Then make a shorter one for your short attention span.
you lost me at Fram
Cool. Enjoy your super tech filters.