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Make sure unloader is facing the correct direction, make sure one of the bypass ports is open, make sure water is flowing through the pump.

and a new subscriber! I look forward to some awesome footage✌

At the time with a few upgrades and swaps with shipping, which was about $100 , total was like $1713. Now he has it listed on his website. www.pressurewasherky.us/product-category/skid-build-kits/

Well the high heat you have to hear treat after application so I wouldn't use it for this purpose. I used it for brake components but no longer have the vehicle so idk how it panned out. The wood deck paint is the professional and so far still looks good a little over a year later. For metal the regular Rust-Oleum is good so long as the surface was prepped well.

To the weather it's good. The bleach can etch the paint a little. There's some spots of slight color change but not sure if it's the bleach or bird poop because I don't remember bleach being in some spots. But so far a year later it's holding up pretty good 👍

www.pressurewasherky.us/product-category/skid-build-kits/

@@MannyWashes thanks for the link…did you get the K7 unloader? Is it worth the upgrade?

I had upgraded to a different 1/2" unloader back then. The k7 isn't a bad unloader, it'll add longevity to your hose and gun because it doesn't keep pressure in the hose when you release the trigger.

Thank you Michael I really appreciate your feedback.

Yes I did. I got them from here. Order the ones with the washer and order so extra washers to keep on hand. The 1/4" one didn't last long on my MTM hydro turbo nozzle and cracked on the female end but I didn't get 3/8" and 3/4" ones for my pump and 3/8" ones for my dn10 ball valve because that's also bsp threads. shop.prmfiltration.com/collections/stainless-steel-bspp-adapters-npt-female-x-bspp-male

Okay, looks like that company also sells them on ebay. I might get the brass ones, unless those are bad. Idk if it works but I think a few guys slap NPT onto GP units without adapters.

Yeah a lot of guys just put the npt on. 55° vs 60° and one tpi difference.

The 2.5 orifice was 20:1 so very diluted. I switched to a 2.1 and it's 12.5:1, the average of two draw test.

@@MannyWashes I hear you. I know the 2.5 was really ment for 10gpm and above. I have a 10gpm and I use a 2.5 orifice and get only .8% sh. 15:1 which sounds bad but I add soap to make the sh stick better. Works like a charm in a lot of cases.

@@peternguyen4047 assuming your psi rating on the pump is 3000 psi the smallest nozzle you can use is a size 12 orifice which is a 2.2mm or you can go up to a more readily available 2.3mm which is a 13 orifice. General Pump 100333BL is a 2.2mm and GP 100776 is a 3/8 mpt 2.3mm and GP 101154 is the 1/2"mpt 2.3mm. These are general pump injectors sizes Metric-Inches- similar tip size 1.04mm-0.040"-(2.43) 1.30mm-0.051"-(3.9) 1.35mm-0.053"-(4.19) 1.45mm-0.057"-(5) 1.5mm-0.059"-(5.5) 1.6mm-0.063"-(6.25) 1.8mm-0.071"-(8) 2.1mm-0.083"-(11) 2.2mm-0.086"-(12) 2.3mm-0.091"-(13) 2.5mm-0.098"-(16) 3.18mm-0.125"-(25)

​@@MannyWashes Wow man, you know your craft. I was trying to determine the best downstreamer for my setup running a 10gpm. The best I found was just doing a 2.5mm from Envirospec which gave me that 15:1 draw ratio. I would like to get someting hotter but I don't see anything on the market that can achieve a better ratio. Lots of people just say to drop to a 2.3 but forcing that much water thru such a small orfice makes my machine sound terrible and the ratio doesn't change. If you have some input on this, I would love to hear. At the moment, I run a pump that force feeds the injector and gets me right at a 1-1.5% sh mix which is perfect. I would like to however find a way to not be always be dependant on a external pump.

@@peternguyen4047 so think of it like this. I mentioned that the 2.2mm is a size 12 orifice which is what your color tips would be sized for your pressure washer. The 2.3mm is one size bigger orifice. The orifice inside the injector is just another nozzle just closer to your pump and inside the injector. It'll give you a slight hotter mix. Then if you order one of the 2.3mm injector models I mentioned above and you use one of those 1/4" check valves it'll reduce the chemical inlet restriction further increase your output percentage. Texas pressure washing store doesn't have the upgrade check valve on there site anymore so this is SESW version. southeastsoftwash.com/products/check-valve-for-downstream-chemical-injectors-w-skunk-hastelloy-spring?pr_prod_strat=e5_desc&pr_rec_id=252dff9a3&pr_rec_pid=8675903504700&pr_ref_pid=8675903734076&pr_seq=uniform

It's all 3/4" until that ball valve I connect the hose too. 3/4" water , SH and Aux to the manifold with 1/4" for surfactant to the manifold. Manifold to pump is 3/4" and pump to ball valve is 3/4". Then the application hose is 5/8".

Good to know. Thank you. I see that the hose fittings that come with the pump have a 3/4 OD, but I just wanted to make sure. I bought mine for fleet washing. I have a 275 gallon tote, and a 4 GPM pressure washer. Hoping this pump will do the trick. Do you use 12 volt batteries or 6 volt in series? I’m thinking about either getting two 12 volt batteries in parallel or two 6 volt in series. With the hopes of the battery life increasing during a work shift. Thanks for your time man. I appreciate it

@@joelsmith3873 I bought the Walmart everstart marine 29DC 2 year warranty battery. They're going for about $120. I've had mine for a year now and it's still going.

Oh wow ok. I like that price

Good question. I have yet to add it all up but it's probably near $10-15K

Yeah I shortened it once I mounted them on the trailer. It didn't make a difference but it's fine now. When the tank would balloon from the heat it forced the air outside of the filter so the filter is full of gas now.

The custom bracket is going to have less play than the factory because the custom has one single hole for the 4 holes on the skid side while the factory has slots. I think it'll mostly come into play while the pump is going.

No. I kinda referenced the other belt drive videos but they weren't too much help. That's the whole reason why I made the videos and the reason why they're so long. Part 1 is the build. Watch it first because there was some mistake I learned along the way and fixed. There's also another video I did about adding weep holes in the belt housing which I believe is the last upload. Part 1 czcams.com/video/qtHjTkCfyOA/video.htmlsi=bgSnGu8eyOJ7MfeR Extra cut czcams.com/video/nIupHyhNMM4/video.htmlsi=H43YMMLU5aT7RWHt

It's on part 1

I've been using fram xtra guard for over a decade now without issue. Now I would agree with you if it was the cheap orange filter. Wix would be my next choice.

@@MannyWashes Ah, I missed that distinction. I think the Xtras might even be made by Wix? I thought I saw some cut-opens on another channel. I'm really watching to see how well that Predator holds up for you, as I've heard a lot of good things.

It's the stuff Russ sent me when I ordered the diy build kit. Where are you speaking of using them at?

@@MannyWashes In place of lock washers. Lock washers don't really prevent loosening. Larger flat washers are for load distribution to keep the bolt head from collapsing what it's clamping, so by all means continue using the larger washers. But if the washer is about the same diameter as the bolt head, just using a flanged screw seems to make life easier. It's not wrong to use lock washers. It just that there are other ways to go that are either more effective or easier to do. If you are concerned about loosening, I'd strongly recommend the Nord Lock washers. It's the *only* locking washer style setup I've found that absolutely resists loosening due to vibration. They're even meter than Spiralock IMHO.

@@MannyWashes Pump mounts to the bracket. Don't worry about your rig-- it's gtg. Just keep on eye on those lockwashers on the pump mount and make sure they stay tight.

6 commercial breaks just in this one video. I'm going to send you a bill for my time lol

@@jwp1180 I have no control over the commercials. And I made this to be detailed as possible because the other two or three videos didn't have enough information. You're only 2 of thousands that have view that have brought up length. But the information may also help someone on engine select because the predator does sometimes need tinkering to get it just right. Now it confidential runs.

You know you can either skip time in the video or go to settings (sprocket wheel in the top right corner)>Playback Speed 🤷🏿‍♂️

Yeah the Honda is the better option

Got mine $300 secondhand. So we take those. Couldn't drive fast enough to get it. 670 flexes your mechanical skill to say the least. I'll upgrade to a rebuilt kubota engine later because everyone has a honda and I want to be different.

@@velvetypotato711 yeah that's for sure. Had mud bugs clog my vent tubes. Took me a while to look at it even though I had a feeling early on. Back to running at tip top shape. By the way it was the tube that went to the hair box that prevented it running. Although the excess fuel tube being clogged will cause the carb to flood as well.

​@@velvetypotato711yeah I'm the same. When it's time for me to upgrade I'm going with either a CRX or Kohler engine 💰 (750cc range 23-27 HP) with an Udor pump on a gear reduction. I have a 20 year old Kohler 15 HP Command Pro still going strong. I'm using it with an AR pump. I'm not against Honda or General Pump, I just like to be different. And I prefer black instead of red.

Yeah at this point I'm looking at Kohler engines for the future.

Since I've add back the makuni Honda fuel pump and replaced the fuel line from the pump to the carb I haven't had any issues getting fuel to the engine. I'm not against the priming bulb idea though. Fuel filter always seems to low on fuel but the engine still runs without issue.

@@MannyWashes My predator and Honda both run with the fuel filter appearing to be empty

@@bluewave18ft thanks for that info

I mounted it in front of the pressure washer to the trailer wood deck using an unloader block. From the pump I have a 3/8" male to 1/2" female enlarging fitting, then a 1/2" elbow male-female, then a 3ft 1/2" whip line, then the unloader, then a 1/2" nipple, then the unloader block which is a 90°, then it's another 1/2' nipple, then a 1/2" ball valve, then a 1/2" quick connect male plug. This unloader block has two mounting holes that take 1/2" bolts.

Cool. Enjoy your super tech filters.

Then make a shorter one for your short attention span.

I think it was the spring hose clamps on the fuel lines. I later swapped to adjustable clamps. I also replaced the fuel line from the fuel pump to the carb because it was a little collapsed in because it was a flimsy hose but I also had cut it short on the build up. I don't remember on this video but I have had a few occurrences of backfire when turning off the engine. I believe the fuel solenoid is a little finicky so i may delete it like most predator 670 owners do. But so far it's running good. I put the Honda fuel pump back on. I made sure the carb jets were clear and the float needle moves freely.

When I had trouble starting my predator the line on the top of the carb was restricted. When replaced, it cranked every time.

@@velvetypotato711 yeah I replaced it last month the last time I took it apart. Since I had cut it when I first put the new pump in and because it's flimsy I noticed it was pinching or collapsing on itself. It's come on every time since.

I appreciate that. Glad I could help. It helps me sometimes too.

I'm away from the machine right now but I'll take those measurements for you when I get back. But yeah the frame can be home made.

@@MannyWashes Would help to know the frame face's length x width, as well as, the pulley gap, belt type, and bushing dimensions. I'm shipping in a used 6.9 cast iron pulley but don't know what bushing goes in it yet.

@@velvetypotato711 Skid footprint is 27-1/8" x 12-3/8" The mounting surface is 27-1/8" x 9-3/4". This is without the leg portion where the skid mounting bolt are. Skid height is 1-1/2" Skid thickness looks to be 3/16" The engine shaft to pump shaft is 13" on center with the pump tighten into position. Pump is tighten about 3/8" to the right so I'd assume the pre-tension distance is 12-5/8" Belt is a D&D Power Drive 4/3VX435 Engine bushing is 1" SH type Pump bushing is 24mm SK type The vendor should be able to tell you what is the proper bushing for that pulley you're having shipped. The 4 slots opening on the skid for the pump mount mounting bolts are 1" long. Bolts are 3/8"-16 x 1" so the slot opening needs to be just wide enough to accommodate 3/8" bolts. Keeping a tight tolerance on the opening with should also help with pump alignment. From the right face of the skid going left the slot starts at 2-5/8" then since it's 1" long continues to 3-5/8". The bolts are 4-1/2" apart so the next slot starts at 7-1/8" to 8-1/8". I can't visually verify the 2nd set of slots because everything is mounted and bolted to the trailer. The distance between front slot to back slots is 5-5/8" on center. So back slot is 1-5/8" on center from the rear of skid mounting surface and front slot is 7-1/4" on center from the rear of the skid mounting surface. Yes the tension plate underneath the skid is to tension the belt easily. But tightening the 4 mounting bolts are what really keep the pump in place to the skid preventing backing out. If there were two tension bolts on the side of the skid then I would say it was for alignment too but there's only 1. Also that tension bolt is 3/8"-16 x 6" and it uses a cage nut that clips onto the tension plate.

@@velvetypotato711 I would think it would be best to get all the holes on the skid for the pump squared away first then adjust the engine position to line up with the pump then mark the holes to be made for the engine. The back of the motor cover lines up with the back of the pump. The bushing for the pump doesn't have much room for adjustment as to it's location on the shaft so most of the pulley adjustment to line them up is going to be done on the engine bushing.

So far it is working smoothly and haven't had any issues with this one. The one on the gun also works well for the lance and the quick connect tips but with jrods it'll turn on you with fan tips because of the weight of the j-rod. That's if the j-rod is on the gun without the lance.

That's what all the way out looks like. 4 short notches.

Pressure washer 8.5 gpm Soft wash flojet 6gpm

Alright so I didn't find a straight out answer like you were looking for. I did compare the parts exploded view of your pump and my GP TSF2021. Given that most of the screws in the same location of the two pumps have the same thread diameter but different lengths I'm guna go with that the mounting bolt holes on the bottom are also M10. The TSF2021 came with M10x18mm according to the manual and Russ sent me M10x20mm for me to use with his mounting bracket instead of using the bracket that came with the pump. So I'm guna say yours is also M10 and probably the 18-20mm length but I'd double check that if I were you. If you have a stick to put it in the hole then measure it and convert it to metric should give you the maximum bolt length. If you're between lengths then I'd probably say go a size smaller but also remember to include the thickness of the mounting bracket when considering the length of bolt.

I'm looking at Lowe's and I would just say make sure that the threads are the whole length of the bolts and don't forget locking washers

Could also use hex cap bolts which is what came with the GP pump and Russ sent me hex bolts.

Ok thank you for your help I’m going to Lowe’s tomorrow to see if I can find the bolts I appreciate that you answered my questions

@@melvinn5293 let me know if those do turn out being the ones. Good luck.

Thanks I appreciate it

Pretty much everything you see except the engine, the drain hoses and the Honda fuel pump. But since he builds Honda pressure washers he has the pulleys rationed for the Honda GX690 3600 RPM and GP TSF 2021 1750 RPM. The predator 670 maxes at 4000 RPM so it needs to be throttled down a little (3605rpm exactly) to not go over the 1750 RPM of the pump. The pulleys also have a bushing if you've seen the part one, it's what actually attaches to the shaft of the engine and pump. A couple of things I've done since and may post a little video is paint the mounting plate for the pump and the angle plate that is part of the tensioning bolt. After the first rain or two they started to surface rust pretty bad, the black coating they have isn't sufficient. I added marine grease in between both plates and where it contacts the skid plate. Also I drill three 3/16" holes(weep hole) on that pulley house lip (not the cover for it) opposite side of the holes that mount the housing to the skid plate. I could see where a little water pooled there after some heavy rains and kinda drained out the side a little but I can tell it mostly evaporated in the housing. I had recently drilled 1/8" and didn't see any standing water after a recent rain but I found that weep holes for house siding shouldn't be less than 3/16" so I sized up the holes last week I think.

Also look at the other comments just in case there may be some other information you may want to know. I know one has info about the pulley ratios.

Thanks, Russ was very quick with the reply

@@adamj9726 yeah he sure is