How To Install and Adjust A Piano Hinge - Woodworkers Toolbox Detail Video
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- čas přidán 21. 12. 2020
- Tips on installing and adjusting a continuous hinge. Start by driving the minimum number of screws to operate the lid and check the fit. You can push the screw back or forth to adjust the position of the hinge by a small amount. Worst case: remove the screw, plug hole with a wooden plug and drill and drive again. Get the lid fitting perfectly before driving the rest of the screws, and drive two at a time checking the fit after each one.
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Tips on installing and adjusting a continuous hinge. Start by driving the minimum number of screws to operate the lid and check the fit. You can push the screw back or forth to adjust the position of the hinge by a small amount. Worst case: remove the screw, plug hole with a wooden plug and drill and drive again. Get the lid fitting perfectly before driving the rest of the screws, and drive two at a time checking the fit after each one.
Quick tip. I have taken a small rat tail file and elongated a few of the holes in the piano hinge before beginning the install. One near (but not at) each end and one in the middle on both sides of the hinge. Adjustments are super easy then.
Just about to do my first piano hinge, this was super helpful!
all my problems are of my own making- i say it with pride and proceed to fix
I use foam mounting tape. Attach the hinge to the box. Place the hinge in the closed position. Put tape on hinge. Line up lid over the box. Press down onto tape. Open lid and support from underneath. Drill pilot holes. Remove tape and screw lid on. Done.
great video John! Clever method of fine tuning the fit. Thanks for posting
Didn't know the tip about adjusting the screws by pushing - more valuable stuff from the master 👍
Very attractive style. The evolution of going from tool wall to tool chest is something Chris Schwarz made all of us think about.
I am building an entryway bench where the top opens for storage. This will be my first time using a piano hinge so thanks for the good tips!
John, looks great! Looking forward to the video and plans. In the meantime, have a Merry Christmas!
Looks great John.
Thanks for sharing the video. Happy holidays stay safe.
The box is looking beautiful, John! 😃
Looking forward to the video!!!
Happy holidays! And stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Good tips on the piano hinge John! Thanks for sharing it with us! Merry Christmas!💖👌👍😎JP
Brilliant-
Thank you!!
Looks really nice John.
Thanks Kip :)
Good looking box John. Cool tip on the hinge.
Thanks Jim and merry Christmas!
Merry Christmas John!
Best laid plans Brother! Merry Christmas!
Thanks! Merry Christmas to you too :)
My favorite way to get a piano hinge and lid alignment correct --- DOUBLED SIDED thin TAPE.
John, did you just discover you can't talk and screw at the same time without messing one of them up? :)
lol
Hey, you found the centering punch!
Any chance I can use a hinge like this for a bookcase door? I have a 48 inch opening under my basement steps that has been finished off to a room. I want to make a bookcase that acts as a door to hide the opening. I figured a hinge like this would be stronger than standard door hinges.
A small, portable sheet metal tool chest I have has the Piano Hinge on the outside. It's probably easiest to fix the lid in place and attach the hinge that way. It also has a lip that the lid fits over to seat onto, which helps in aligning it for closing the lock + hasps. You don't see the hinge on the back in normal operation. A piece of cardboard or hardboard as a spacer would align it I think.
You're not wrong but that method is not typical for applications in wood. Almost every use of a continuous hinge with wood is to install the screws into the end grain. This is also preferred if you need to install a longer screw. The hinge is not for support as it would fail or the screws would tear out depending on thickness of wood and weight of the top. John still needs to add either a chain, hydraulic stays or some other device to restrict the lid from opening too far.
With the hinge oriented like I did it will actually support the top, but it is better to have a stay or a wall behind it to catch it. I'm going with the wall option :)
And with the hinge inside it's less visible from the outside (looks better) and less likely to be tampered with if the box is locked.
Great tip. Thanks for posting this. Question about the hinge position. It looks like you recessed the hinge into the body of the cabinet. Is so the lid will fit flat and not be raised up by the hinge? If yes, is it best to route out a rabbet in the box itself or the lid? Does it matter in regards to operation and installation? Thanks so much! Long time watcher of your videos. Always learn something from you my man. Appreciate your content.
Hey, John...This is a really nice looking Box. Is it ash wood? By the way. I tend to glue the hinge in place with 5 minute epoxy. (lid closed + aligned). After its set, i can put the screws in, without shifting things around... Would be interesting to know the weight of the thing...(empty)
Cool tip thanks 😊
I have two 3/4 x6x36 inches pieces of wood that I want the hinge to be Concealed so, that it looks like a flat surface. No hinge visible at all. I can't find any videos on how this would be done. If you can explain it, please let me know. It seems simple but, everything that i tried does not work. thx
I use a Vix bit for accurate centering every time. #5 works well for a #6 screw.
Sorry if this is a repeat question. Did you make mortise for the piano hinge prior to install?
That’s what I want to know. The hinge usually drops below a 45 degree angle so I can only assume he made that full side lower to compensate
👍
Send this man some VIX bits!
What is the spring-loaded tool used to mark for the pilot holes? Somehow haven't seen one of those before. Thanks.
It's a self-centering center punch. The barrel has a chamfer on it that fits into the hole on the hinge. Holding the punch vertical and giving a tap with a hammer, or similar, you create a dimple in the wood that is supposed to be in the center of the hole, ready with pilot hole and screw. The spring simply returns the punch portion to be inside the barrel, unless you bash the punch too hard. John must be having an issue with the punch position relative the barrel and is getting off-center dimples. He's using the pliers to try and get the punch portion back to center as best as he can. You can find this tool at almost any home centre (Home Depot for example) in the aisle with chisels and other types of punches. They're between $5 and $10.
@@daveduncan9005 Thanks Dave, I appreciate that.
@@FirCurtis No problem. Hope it helps you with future projects.
Can you please tell me, are there advantages to using a self centering punch instead of going ahead and using a self centering drill bit? I don't have either and want to expand my tool options... What do you suggest?
@@rwind656 Like you, I don't have either the punch or self-centering drill bit so I really couldn't say. Maybe just a matter of personal preference? Maybe Dave or John could answer that one.
Beautiful work and I know you are in a rush... but a metal hinge with wood slides? sigh.
I'm having flashbacks to putting in solid brass screws in solid brass piano hinge and now I need to go kick some puppies or something.
It's windy outside and, you did not use black screws or water based poly!........who is this imposter?
43rd.
Wooden drawer slides and a metal hinge, come on John you can do better 😀