Video není dostupné.
Omlouváme se.
Fixing a peco insulfrog crossing
Vložit
- čas přidán 10. 05. 2010
- The one part of the junction i thought would be ok, turned out to be the most troublesome (so far). It says insulfrog on the box it came in, which means that there is plastic frogs to stop shorting. However mine shorted out anyway so i had to do a bit of surgery.
Good track repair glad the trains,have run running smooth.👍
necessity is the mother of invention! :) I solved a similar problem by insulating the entire crossing using insulating rail joiners and then hooking up a DCC reverse loop module to flip the polarity.
This method is much simpler lol
Thank you. A very useful tip, which I will try myself. Shorting on points seems to be a common problem and you would think the manufacturers would solve it.
That is so handy. I've been having trouble with the medium crossing points. Now I've seen this I might give it a shot. Really helpful stuff there.
Hi Nicholas! I've also been having some problems with a newly laid crossover with Peco large radius insulfrog points. Have you had any success in fixing yours? I'll be shooting a video about it soon.
Cheers!
Stew.
teddybeareleventeen Hi sorry for the late reply. I've had success with two of my points using this method. I didn't use anything special, just a bit of plasticard that I had lying around from a scratchbuilding which fits snug in between the point frogs. I'll post a photo of how and where I fixed mine on my RM web account, under the name nhdesigns. Just got to fix up the other four three way points and two curved points.
You are going to have a very nice layout.
Think I was 17 when I filmed this.
I've just had this, I just replaced the diamond with a code 100 Insulfrog single slip. More expensive but it worked, no plasticard, no nail varnish. Just solder two wires at the slips centre connections underneath
It was glued in, it fell out a while ago. Rather than trying again I just painted the offending bit of rail.
@Blueyoshi03 They run so smooth because the track is very clean, the controller is DCC, the engine has a 5 pole screw wound motor and the collects electricity from all the wheels.
From what I know of the industrial set the engine is fitted with the same motor that is used in scalectric cars, this it makes almost impossible for the engine to run smoothly at low speeds. Hope that answered your question, good luck in the hobby.
@jmsschooner I'm using gaugemaster point motors and peco code 100 streamline track. I would expect that peco point motors would work with any peco track. A hornby point decoder could also be used to control them, but i've never used hornby dcc stuff (I use a lenz system).
@MrTTibs I still have issues with trains stalling at low speeds because the shorting problem hasn't completly gone away. In more recent vids you may hear or see sparks as train goes over the crossing at speed. The SL-93 has quite a bit of plastic in the centre and could be the cause of your issues. Make sure the track is spotless and the locos pick-ups are definatly toughing the all the wheels. I model in the late 1980s so almost all my trains have 2 bogies and at least 8 wheels.
I see you have used insulated rail joiners at one end of the crossing. If it is insulfrog is that required? or are you doing it just to be ultra careful of no shorting out? I am building a corssing right now and since it is insulfrog I have not considered using insulated joiners...will my system not work?? I am building it on the basis of getting it DCC running.
Also, I have just got some electrofrog points from Hattons, code 100. what is the wire part that seems to dangle under the point?
I've dealt with these same issues with HO Shinohara switches. I used small blue masking tape pieces in the frog areas where metal wheels form a short across rails. Never thought of nail polish though.. Funny coincidence though, and something I came up with in the 'visual Dept'. Buy a small bottle of 'chrome enamel' and small brush at an art supply. Merely paint any and all black or brown plastic insulators..Now you have switches with no visual gaps in the rails as per the 1:1 scale..!! M
PS. Brightboy rail cleaner does not scratch away the silver !! Just go easier in these areas. After many uses of the BBoy, it may. Then just do a quick touch up..Paint any plastic guard rails too..
I left out above that I had a 3 way Shinohara outside a 2 stall engine house. 2 tracks to house and 1 to side of shop. The shorts and stall-outs I encountered here were enormous.. One my next layout I will employ the 3 way at the throat of a small yard. The engine, using 1 car as a 'handle' (like at a ferry slip ops) will shove cars through and past the 3 way, having first uncoupled out side of switch via a Kadee magnet.. (I'll store the 'handle car' on a short spur near by ( so I hope )..... MH Los Angeles
I had similar problems, but in my case it was flat profile metal rolling stock wheels shorting the rails at the thin plastic frog. It was really only an issue at low speeds but you could see tiny sparks when flat metal coach and wagon wheels ran over the frog. You should hear the temporary short clicking as each wheel ran over the frog. My fix was to isolate the opposing rail on the frog using a switch.
***** That would do the job. Mine still shorts sometimes at slow speed on certain models.
Hi, just watching this and it's very helpful, I am building a new DCC layout using insulfrog points and I was going to use electroclips on the points so everything is 'live', but then I noticed you were using insulated rail joiners on the points, one would defeat the other right? Cheers, Andy.
There are insulated rail joiners on the crossing because it is connected to electrofrog points. Check my video called 'fitting a point motor' it explains how electrofrog points work and how to wire them up.
Helpful video, im having the same problem with just normal peco points with my hornby class 50 because the wheels are a fraction too wid so thanks..... Where did you get the plastic from?
i am going to seem like a bit of a random commenter but im VERY new to collecting model trains and im just wondering how your engine runs so smoothly on a low speed? i have a industrial set from hornby and the engine jerks a bit on very low speeds
Well done! Thank you
@nordenstation I got the plastic from my local model shop
Ive had the same issues with Peco medium, Long and curved points.
hmm, interesting. i usually take a small jewelers saw and cut gaps in the rail on both sides of the frog to isolate it.
@armleyroad Glad I could help.
love the fans on the train
Hi did you put any insulators joints on this point ?
Committed at a young age. Just like me!
Does this need any wiring to work
You got the platform from school?
I got the wood from the school workshop. I then made platforms out of it.
where are you based?
How old were you?
@slendersausage Bedfordshire, UK