Showing problem points and wiring electrofrog points. 18-06-2017
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- čas přidán 14. 07. 2024
- In this video I show some of the problems with the insulfrog points I have been having and also how I have wired up the electrofrog points. I have rendered this at 720p rather than 1080p as the quality wasn't required and it would have taken ages to upload.
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Thanks Graham. I am about to embark on my first Electrofrog wiring exercise and this helps a lot
As usual Graham, I thoroughly enjoyed this. I also like it when you share some of your processes like soldering, and track work. Cheers :)
Many thanks John and pleased that you enjoyed it - a lot more work to do yet but it's a start. ...........Graham
Ive had a very similar issue. Moved over to peco streamline points and the problems gone. Great work
Hi Graham, thanks for that tutorial I will look at electrofrog points in the future. I use insulfrog because there easy.Cheers John.
Absolutely John, that's one of the reasons I kept on adding them, it wasn't until later that I realised that the electrofrogs were better, I'll see how these ones work out but I think from what people say and what I've seen then I will eventually swap out some of my insulfrog points which are a little iffy, not all - just some. ...........Graham
Graham, such a helpful video! I'm just getting back into this and you have really helped.
That's great Owen and pleased that it was of some use to you. Thank you. ..............Graham
Another job done well, what a steady hand you have!
Thanks Greg, it never crossed my mind that I have a steady hand or not to be honest but I guess it comes in handy for doing this sort of thing. ;-) ..............Graham
Great Graham. Thanks for showing this. Very useful.
No problems Philip and glad you found it of interest. ...........Graham
Hi Graham,
Great video thanks. I'm a bit late watching it but still very interesting as I've had the same problem with mine. Unfortunately mine were set in ballast like concrete, ha ha ha.
So i had to wire mine down on the outside.
I also found the power was not connecting between 2 points simply because where they both joined at the fishplates, for some reason the power wasn't passing over so i simply put a small piece of wire on the outside to bridge the gap and they then worked fine.
Thanks again for great video. Your layout looks amazing.
All the best
Duncan.
Very good video, the only thing missing was the phrase"...and here's one I made earlier". Great to watch 👍
LOL. Glad you enjoyed it mate. .............Graham
Great video Graham all explained really well Dave
Thanks Dave, I was only mouthing what I had read up and seen on other videos but hopefully it will give folk an idea and also see how it's actually done. ..........Graham
Nice tutorial Graham. I recently had to rewire two single slips and three points as a group in a station throat....nightmare!!! Cheers, Bob
I can imagine Bob, that sent shivers over me just thinking about it!! lol. ..........Graham
Another instructive video Graham lots to help me with the start of my layout next year (at last when I passed it by the wife she didn't say no !) Regards Gav .
Excellent result Gavin, a "Yes" is a done deal in my book and pleased that you found this useful for your future layout. ............Graham
Graham. Right choice to use live frogs. Very good practical video too. Reason for shorts on dead frog is that the dead frogs are not long enough, particularly when using DCC. On DC there would be a spark when you run over the frog causing a short circuit, but the loco would ignore that and continue on, but with DCC being so sensitive, it causes controller to switch off. In the past I have modified the dead frog points in the same way as the live frogs ones, but that does mean cutting the rails.
Keep up the good work (and videos!)
Brian
Thanks for that Brian, much appreciated mate. I think one of the nice things about the electrofrog points is they do look a little more realistic rather than the insulfrog points with that big lump of plastic so an added bonus there apart from the better running (hopefully). ...........Graham
So very helpful (as well as skilful) - thank you for sharing.
Graham when i wire my Peco points i put my feeder wires were you soldered the frog wire, but thats just my way and it just saves soldering the last
two cheers Robert
Yes several people have said that to me so when I come to do some more then I will adapt that method. Cheers for now mate. ...........Graham
Thanks Robert it takes away one job doing it that way
kind Regards
Derek
A very neat job Graham, i have seen so many where people have been to generous with the heat and melted the plastic, you find yourself saying take the heat of you're melting it lol
I must admit that the first ones I did when I was setting up the layout got a little warped but that was just down to lack of inexperience on my part, thanks for the comment Den, much appreciated. ...........Graham
Great job.. thanks for sharing and keep up the great work.. Lance
Great job Graham and yes I have done this before but its always good to see someone explaining it.
Don't forget the little plastic fish plates.
Nice Tee shirt but I would say that wouldn't I
Thanks mate and I hope you recognised the point motor!! ;-) Yes I've had a few Jags and Daimlers in my lifetime and that T shirt was of a '92 Sovereign I had - lovely car. Have you managed to get your lathe yet? ..........Graham
Yes I do have the lathe now and its great fun
Cant wait to see the next video as ripping the track up is never easy
That's excellent Graham, really pleased for you mate, I hope you get hours of fun with it, I'm sure you will. I'm waiting for this heat to go, I can't do a thing up there while it's like this. ...........Graham
Another good explanation of setting up electro frog points. When I started to do mine (not as neat as yours) I never cleaned the soldered joint with water and I have now got horrible green blue marks on the solder (can't think of the correct term), so now , I always wash clean every joint.
Barry. Devon.
Cheers Barry. I think that green blue marking is sometimes called 'effervescence' which is due to a chemical reaction if the chemicals are not washed off but I maybe wrong - that's what I have always known it as. Which is one of the reasons I don't solder to fish plates or rail joiners because quite often you will see that where there isa slight air gap between the fish plate and the rail as they don't have exactly the same profile but hey - each to their own, there are so many different ways to do the same job. ;-) ............Graham
I keep falling behind all the time but slowly catch p haha great video :) hopefully when those new points are in these trains wont struggle, its probably because between the points that slight part is a dead mans land
That's how it's done, with flair and alacrity. Nice job Mate...
Many thanks Stuart for the kind comment, I just hope that it all works out OK!! lol. ..........Graham
Great explanation
Hi Graham I have watched all videos and finally I can make a comment. I have watched lakeside come alive and all the problems problems you had with the helix. Lakeside is fantastic and a credit to it's maker, so don't keep saying you mumble on because we all follow you
Thank you John and I consider myself duly told off!! lol. I will try not beat myself up so much from now on. ;-) Many thanks for you comment John, as always the comments are most welcome. ............Graham
fantastic job !!🚈🚉🚋🚊
Thanks buddy. ............Graham
Clean work
Hi I'm just about to start a 009 gauge layout is it the same for a none dcc setup as you showed on your video.Do you still need those plastic rail joiners .
some good tip there it enjoyable video from me
thanks
Thanks Adi, much appreciated mate. ..........Graham
Just watched the video Graham. I was going to say about adding the dropper wires to the jumper wires but I think that has already been said. I always used to use the point motor to change the polarity of the frog, first with seep motors but that caused problems because it was a mechanical switch. I then changed to dcc concepts point controllers and seep motors or as you are using the dcc concept points. This obviously changes the polarity electrically, far less problems. I think now, just my preference, I prefer to leave the frog to be changed by a frog juicer which basically means that the frog does not necessarily change with the point but if a train runs over it and it is the wrong polarity the juicer changes it automatically before it shorts out. This means you should never have a short as a result of a point changing problem. As I say just my preference.
Robin
PS just uploading a video of my 0 Gauge Deltic with sound you might be interested to hear.
Hi Robin, since uploading this video then I have learnt that there are so many different variations of the same thing, all getting to the same conclusion but all in slightly different ways, it's interesting to hear the different options, even just the placing of the dropper wires. I am lucky in that I am only going to try these four and see how I get on, if they go ok then I will swap out a few others too which I know are not 100% but these four should be a good starting point for me to learn on. ............Graham
Hi Graham, I have done exactly the same thing to all my peco points and have had no problems with any of my locos stalling since. The only difference is I have used poco point motors and changeover switches. Have not been on your site for a while.Its looking good. Great video which I am sure will benefit a lot of viewers. Keep up the good work.
Hi Martin and sorry for the late reply. Well that's a good sign for me then if you have done the same and have had no problems since and as long as wire them up correctly to the DCC Concepts point motor correctly then I shouldn't have either - famous last words!! lol. Thanks for coming back to view the channel once again, that's really appreciated. ...........Graham
Usefull for a lot considering using Peco points Graham ..Dave
That's what I thought too Dave but this has been shown on other videos so nothing new as such but not that many actually show the soldering etc, hopefully this will show that if I can do it then most other folk can do it too. ..........Graham
Watched all the latest offerings Graham enjoyed them only thing I have against electrofrogs is SOMETIMES fat metal wheels on coaches and wagons can short the points out on the frog, old Hornby and lima can be a barst..........d so to speak, cheers Tony.
Thanks for thatTony, helpful information there. I don't run that sort of stock so I should (hopefully) be ok but still good to know though, thanks. ...........Graham
Graham, do you have to do that on all the points on your layout ?
Hi Michael, when I gradually convert all my points over to electrofrog points then all the points need to be wired this way although I have modified the wiring since this video was made. The two links I put across are now replaced with the power cables linking across which saves an operation and keeps soldering away from the end of the blades. If you look on the instructions supplied with the points then it shows exactly this set up. I hope that helps and cheers for now. ............Graham
Hi Graham another good video demonstration thank you. I don't know about you but it is way to hot to tackle anything at the moment.
Hi Mark and pleased you enjoyed it mate. Its too hot for me to do anything, I've tried doing work in the garden, work in the barn on Lakeside and failed on both accounts, within less than 5 minutes I was drenched so we're just sitting in the cool of our lounge, not much else we can do until this heat dies down - I never thought I would say it but this is just too hot now. .............Graham
same here Graham I live in Cornwall and we normally benefit from a little breeze but not today the air is still. I have been trying to mulch the beds in the garden just to keep the moisture in and have now given up until this evening at least.
And I think that's the problem Mark, there just isn't any breeze to cool down with, it feels like there is no air. Like you, we will wait until this evening and will probably be in the garden until about 9 or 10 which actually is quite nice - in the meantime I shall go and sit in the fridge!! lol. ...........Graham
Great educational video. I still prefer to put my drop wires on the fish plates.
That's fine Michael, we all have our own preferred methods, none are normally wrong as such, just different ways of getting the same results. Glad you enjoyed the video though. ..........Graham
The shorting across, which no doubt stops the power for a moment, makes me wonder about wiring insul-frog points as if they were electro-frog. (I.e., both of the output rails from the frog are driven by the same logic as the electro-frog ones)Yes, it introduces complexity, but it does standardise the wiring, whatever standard of points you have.
Great work again mate, thank you. Quick question, what gauge wire do you use for your droppers? I've looked into it, but don't want to order any when the minimum length (reasonably priced!) is 1 metre, that's a lot of wire that would be useless if I get it wrong!
Cheers,
Dom
Hi Dom and thanks, well the cable I have been using for my droppers (and other things on the layout) is made by Expo, it doesn't have a SWG number but on the label it says "10m (long) ; Layout wire; 18 strand ; with a reference number of A22020 Red. Obviously that's the colour I am looking at to get the reference numbers from but it comes in about 10 different colours. It's great cable too as it it's not brittle like some and doesn't break off when twisted. Hope that helps a bit mate. ............Graham
Forgot to say that it's about £2.50 for 10 meters.
Corking, thank you very much.
No worries. ;-) ...........Graham
Nice work re the jumpers. Good iron work, with such a fine iron, but not being slow enough to melt the sleepers.
. Is it worth putting a slight kink into the link so it doesn't impede the movement of the points? Or is it so close to the hinge, that the link just rotates? And is there a reason not use the same pad for the wires as the links?
Thank you Tom. There is no interference from the link to the blade, it is set way below the blade. As regards using the sam pads then I guess this is possible, I just copied the preferred way which is shown on the sights i visited, not being an electrician or understands anything electrical then I just do as I'm told! lol. ..........Graham
Graham Foulston
Watching carefully, I see the soldering you are doing is not on the moving blade, and so there is no flexing of the link when the blade moves, and it cannot act as a strap to limit the movement.
And for people with less adept fingers than yours might well struggle to solder two wires to the same pad. In fact, lacking confidence might make them chose to reduce the number of solder joints, which then makes it harder. (Of course, wiring straight from the DCC bus reduces the soldering further; logically the same, but a further twist when debugging a problem.)
Regards, Tom
That's correct Tom, the links are on the fixed part of the blade and so will not flex when the moving blades change course. ..........Graham
Hi Graham, Great tutorial but I must say that I flinched when you soldered to the stock rails so close to the point blades! I would have used a length of wire in place of the links you added. Then you have all the connections you need with a little less drama! ...........................John
Yep, totally agree John and many have said that but I was doing what I had seen other do - being a newbie to doing this thenI didn't even think about soldering where the two links are. Still, another lesson learnt - just a shame that as far as I know (or found) that there were no videos showing the two feeder wires being soldered to the point where the links are. I will do that when I come to do the others. I have to say that what I have done is not wrong, the process will still work, good job I have a steady hand I guess!! ;-) ...........Graham
Not a Job to be undertaken after half a bottle of wine! lol! ..............John
I'm in the process of shovelling four tons of gravel, done about two and half so far and drinking gallons of water - it's still over 30 degrees here. If I had been drinking any wine during the soldering there would be no points to lay!! lol. ........Graham
Four Tons of Gravel! Wow Grahame are you helping to build the A14? LOL! ......................John
LOL. It feels like it John, what a time to do this with this heat but I've got no option as typically they have put the gravel so I can't get my car out of the drive! Oh joy of joys! And they said it was going to be cooler today, the thermometer in the conservatory has gone off the scale and jammed up to 100 degrees!! lol. ...........Graham
Hi Graham, another excellent "how to" my friend. Can I ask what is probably a stupid question because I missed the obvious? The caps where you removed the small piece of wire, what happens when a train goes over that point, won't it breach that gap? Again I have probably missed the obvious...Simon
Hi Simon, because I have added in those links then it shouldn't matter, all this does is to stop the point having just the moving blade using a point to point contact with the main rail - if that were to get dirty then the point to point contact would probably fail, this way that section of rail is constantly live and the polarity of the frog is sorted out by frog wire being connected to the point motor. The gap is just like having an insulated rail joiner in there. All explained in the Peco installation sheet supplied with the point. This is something that you don't have to do Simon - just a recommended procedure to make them slightly better than just out the box. There are many, many videos on YT showing how to do the exact same thing as what I have done here. Hope that helps. ............Graham
Very neat job, did you use electrofrog points on your fiddle yard?
Thanks John and no I didn't use electrofrogs in the fiddle yard because I wanted the isolating characteristics of the insulfrogs to stop the power going from the reverse loop to any of the sidings without using any additional isolators and additional feeds. ............Graham
Graham Foulston cheers I've just finished building the base boards for a lower fiddle yard and wasn't sure which way to go insufrog or electrofrog for the points
when I gad my DCC tram layout I soldered the feeder wire to the fish plates (had to use railway points as I could not find tram point hat would easily work with DCC) less chance of melting the sleepers and then can always make sure the Red and Black wire were on the correct rails.
Hi Stephen and thanks for the comment, to be honest, I used to solder to the fish plates but stopped doing that as I preferred direct contact of the rail rather than using the joiner - not right or wrong, just a preference thing that's all. Cheers. .........Graham
cracking stuff.
Thanks mate. ...........Graham
Why are Peco not sorting this problem out?
Nce how to....on my fleischmann track its not a problem as the frogs are electro with built in switching inside all standard points....I also do not need a bus wireing system...
Yes that Fleischmann track is clever stuff Jim but I guess is also much more expensive than the Peco. .........Graham
Graham Foulston yes its a bit more expensive...but its also pre balasted and looks good I think..
It does Jim, it looks terrific.
Hi Graham I think the problem is you have got metal joiners in the opposing point if you put plastic joiners at the join I think that will stop the short Worth a try cheers hope this is of help
OK Graeme, that is worth a shot but I will try that on some of the other points as I am determined to get these to electrofrog points. Good point though and thanks for pointing it out. ...........Graham
Great Graham
You beat me by 30mins. Love the weather but just a tad too warm.
You can say that again, I've got loads of things to do and want to do but this heat is just too much to do anything.
Evan Nixon, my guide dog is finding it hard
Oh blimey, that's a real shame, I suppose the only thing you can do is keep her as cool as you can and plenty of water on hand so he doesn't dehydrate.
One problem, he does not like water! (Lab with a problem) Anyway I watch the Loins in the morning, that will get us going before he goes to the vets for his check up, and visit the local
Hi Graham, I'm confused as to why you'd want to use Insulfrog points on a DCC layout anyway? I can't see any advantages or maybe I'm missing a trick? Am guessing this is simply how things evolved from the early days of Lakeside? In any case I think you're doing the right thing in converting to Electrofrog. On DC setups like mine I use only Insulfrogs as these are one of only a few ways of electrically isolating sections of the layout. They are nevertheless often a pain in the @***.
ATB Keith.
It was exactly that Keith, when I started Lakeside I didn't even know there were two sorts of points and it just so happened by chance that I bought insulfrog points - another minus point for me for being such a numpty at the beginning - I just thought that a point was a point but hey ho, another lesson learnt. I am a little bit miffed with the model shop for not going through with me the for's and against between the two as they knew I was just setting up a new layout and had no idea what I was doing at the time, maybe they just thought that the insulfrog points would be easier for me initially because they virtually have no wiring to bother with compared to the electrofrog points. Never mind, I just put it down to lack of experience at the time. Like many things, we live and learn as we progress I guess. .........Graham
Hi, I like your wrist watch
lots of vids about locos stopping at points ,somethings to do with lpco wheels sideways movements ,causing the shortage and stoppage ,,and showing how to get around it when converting to dcc,,also peco has a cheaper way to switch feeds rather than the gadget you have theres fit straight under point motor
Totally agree, there are many videos and solutions out there about this familiar problem. Most of the points I have now removed all suffered from the same thing which was the 'point' end of the plastic frog had worn down, I could have repaired it by building it back up again and rewired it slightly differently to stop the stalling but I have decided to use electrofrog points instead - nothing wrong with that - just my choice. Yes I could also have used the Peco or other make of polarity changer rather than the 'gadget' I have but why should I when I have 4 DCC Concept IP motors doing nothing sitting in a drawer which will do the job perfectly and simply replace the earlier version - even down to the same mounting holes. I appreciate you are just giving alternative examples of how to fix the problem many people have using Insulfrog points but this is just my method I am using that's all, I'm certainly not saying that this is what everyone should do but this is what I'm happy with. ..............Graham
Didn't know you had that many
I build my on switches so if there is a problem I have no one to blame but myself. I hear some people put a piece of styrene in the gaps to make sure they don't ever come together.
Blimey Scott, I really admire people who build their own track and turnouts, that is an amazing skill to me. ..........Graham
why do they put those two links on when you have to remove them ?
Because that's what Peco say in the instruction leaflet inside the box if operating DCC (Paragraph 7, illustration 7 if you have the leaflet). You don't have to remove them if you don't want to, they still work fine but can lessen the chance of shorts on long wheelbase locos which again is explained in the leaflet. ..........Graham
ok Graham thanks , great videos , keep up the good work.
No worries Stephen and have a great day. ...........Graham
Hi Graham, great video covering all the points (lol)
Two things interest me.
1/ Could you not drop the feeder wires from the two new links you fitted in the middle of the points.
2/The links you have cut out and spaced apart with a screwdriver, what happens when the loco wheel goes over that bit of rail, it must rejoin the two bits of rail and create the short circuit you are trying to stop.
Im not criticising just trying to get a better understanding of what is going on here.
Thanks Derek.
Hi Derek, I'm pretty sure that you could solder the feeder cables to include those links too, makes sense to me but I just did it as I have seen in other videos I watched, I'm useless as regards electronics so I daren't break away from something which is already proven to work! lol. Again, same answer really but if you look at the instruction sheet that comes with the Peco points then they actually say to cut those links, they state that this stops shorts occurring on long wheelbase locos on DCC only - I assume that DC is ok according to that note but as I have said, I'm not into electrics and just do as I'm shown. I always do a lot of research before doing anything (because I don't know) so I have to rely on the instruction sheet and other videos I have watched and replicate those proven methods. I just hope that it all works out ok when I put them together!! ;-) ..........Graham
Thanks Graham I'm with you on the dropper cables that would just cut out one step.
With the shorting out on the links you remove, I can only think the loco passes over the rails for a short time.
However you look at it that metal wheel is going to remake the joint at some point.
Many thanks for all the videos you do I have learnt a lot frome them and they have made me look at some things in a different way.
That is what is so good about the internet we can be miles apart and still help each other.
you have a great day
kind regards
Derek
You're absolutely right Derek, the internet is a fabulous place and with so many kind folk out there ready to help then it makes it even better. I'm obviously no guru on things like model railways and I fumble my way through it with the help of others but sometimes I just like to add a little twist to what I do, sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't but that is what makes it all the more fun. Just like these points, in theory they should all work fine as I have followed the instructions on the Peco leaflet and other videos that I've seen but until I lay them down and wire them up then nothing is 100% certain. We shall see I guess! lol.
You have a great day too mate and thanks once again for the comment. ...........Graham
When the loco wheel shorts the gap in the rail, the frog and the rail blade are already connected via the Cobalt, so the shorting has no effect. The other gap is not active at that time, since the selected route does not use both blades at once. The very slight risk of creep to close that gap would just need to be covered in any point inspection when chasing a track shorting problem. Regards, Tom
Well said Graham when i commented before i didn't read any of the comments and wasn't telling you how it should be done,
weather thats the right way or not.But either way will work, and like you the internet will always give us all some insight into
what we are all trying to do and the best part is adding a twist and if it works well thats even better and if it doesn't back to
the drawing board as they say, so have a good one and cheers Robert
Sorry I was looking at wiring up electrofrog points .
It definitely is annoying when your locos stall on points isn't it
Yes it is Dave, hopefully this should solve the problems and give me longer platforms too. .........Graham
will look better with longer platforms
It certainly will Steve, it was ok in the early days but not with the stock I have now. .............Graham
You can install stay alive
I have nearly 90 locos - that would be pretty expensive and I had all the points and track to correct this properly and also have longer platforms at the same time. ...........Graham
would it not be better just to take the frog feeder wiring from your dcc bus wiring rather than soldering wires to the point.
Sorry Richard but I don't understand quite what you mean. Are you saying that there should be no wires soldered to the point? ...........Graham
Just that you could have taken your two feed wires from the dcc bus rather than soldering to the point close to the point blades.
I appreciate that you're saying taking the two feed wires from the bus but where do they go from the bus? You appear to be saying that no wires are connected to the point at all and all I can assume is that you are relying on the rail joiners to provide the power. Not being critical, just trying to find out how you do it.
No need to put your feeds at the toe of the point, use your feeds as the link wire
I see. When the front wheels are on one side and the other end is on the other. Electrofrog turnouts will fix that.
I hope so Rob, you don't hear of many people complaining about electrofrog points whereas you do with insulfrog points. .............Graham
Graham Foulston That is because power is continuous on Electrofrog point.
I disagree, you should not have to cut anything. Just be sure you have adequate power feeds. I do not modify them at all and they work perfectly.
Rob McCrain
Rob, my initial thoughts were the same as yours, that moving the link for the blades from the frog to the side rails (or even direct from the DCC bus, as commented) was not needed.
However powering the blades from the frog relies on the switching for the frog to happen exactly when the blades move, else you can end up with a (momentary) short where the points have moved but the polarity hasn't.
Using point motors (rather than solenoids) is most likely to cause that.
I suspect it would be rare, and intermittent , so nasty to find.
Taking the power for the frog from the DCC bus might make finding an installation problem less apparent, but will mean that you're not depending on the fishplate conduction to drive (multiple) point motors.
But there are only so many failure modes that you can seek to prevent, and having the need for rail power may be useful debug tool when locos are not running right. Six of one, half a dozen of the other.
And that's why watching these videos (and commenting) is so good; the value judgements that deal with future problems rather than the immediate installation are part of the received wisdom.
Regards to both, Tom
Well Rob all I did was to read the Peco instructions in the box and it clearly states to cut those two links and watching several CZcams videos showing how to wire up an electrofrog point. Every one I watched showed the same method - cut the two links and as an additional option to solder the two links from the outside rails to the inner blade. That is optional and is done so that the power is not just solely reliant on the moving blade touching the outer rail for power. What you have done is not wrong, they work straight out of the box as you have discovered, what I (and many others have done) is just a slight improvement for sake of more reliable running. We shall see. ..........Graham
Hi there graham not seen you post any videos recently hope you have not let some stupid comments you received put you off posting your downloads are really missed
Those points were a bit dodgy at the start. I see why they bothered you so much. I saw in your comment to Keith, that you were miffed at the model shop for not helping educate you in pros and cons. My local model shop has an entire section of their building with all things trains, But noone in the shop knows anything about them. I was in there one day when a newly retired guy was looking with the hopes of getting back into the hobby, and noone could help him. I spent a half hour trying to let him know that the variables were greater than when he was a kid. He went off to get on the web and do some research. Sad but true. Regards, Solomon
Well I can only blame myself really Solomon for not looking into it a bit more before buying but a little help would have been appreciated assuming that they actually knew the difference between the two. ...........Graham
I’m sorry. I’m sure you are very knowledgable on this subject. I am not. I have the same problem as you with my Flying Scotsman (The only loco I have) shorting out as it attempts to go over the points. I thought that you was going to be my saviour but alas, you just made it very confusing. You are too Umm and Err and indecisive in what you are trying to explain. Perhaps you could try again but with complete novices like myself, in mind.