I usually use a little masking tape to I know where to stop removing the paint and then when I glue to keep the epoxy off the shaft and adapter. Just speeds up clean up. Just found you on CZcams and enjoying the videos
I like to put the adapter in the head in the setting that it will be used and then assemble just like a normal club head. That way the shaft is easily oriented the way you prefer. Good tips as always though! Thanks!
Wish I woulda watched this prior to installing an adapter on an uncut shaft. Guess I can follow this after my adapter an head fly off my driver in the future because I didn't sand anything to help the bond XD.
Hey AJ, thanks for all great contents on your channel. I have a question regarding this tho: I'm buying a used shaft and as for now it has been cut to 43.5" length. The owner said once fitted with adapter, the driver will measured at 45". I plan to fit it in my 2016 Taylormade M2 head. Also, my ideal length for a driver is somewhere 44.5' to 45" (from what I can remember from my last custom fitted back in 2014). Do you know if this length (43.5" with no adapter) still will give me my ideal length of 44.5 - 45"? Appreciate if you can help me with this, thank you in advance. - Muz @moose
Hi AJ.. BEEN looking online for the little brush (you had in your drill to rough up the adaptor inside to prep for the epoxy) but to No Avail. Being im still very much a newbie and Residing in New Zealand the only places i go to are Golfworks and Billybobs. If its a Golfworks part dont suppose you know what it is or WHERE i can get one?? Thankyou
Every body shows fitting the driver shaft. My question is on a non adapter or direct bore you do not need to tip trim most shafts for a river. Do you need to tip trim when you use an adapter? Also, do you follow the manufacturers trimming suggestions for fairway and hybrid shafts?
go to hardware store and take the adapter and find a screw that screws into it. buy like a 2 and half inch or 3 inch .one that you can put a big washer on it near the head of the screw. Then you can heat the adapter and have the shaft puller hook behind the washer
Hi! Just watched this vid and have a question. You are making this driver for yourself and have installed the sleeve adaptor at a +1* setting and then matched it to the logos etc on the diamana shaft. Would it not be better to install sleeve adaptor in standard setting so that IF u decided to sell this driver then u do not have to either advise purchaser or pull off sleeve adaptor and then re-set to standard? IF the shaft logos are "cock-eyed" as u look down it at address, does would this not throw u off w your swing? (I know it would for me.....). Thanks.
Good video. Do you have a video on prepping a driver shaft for use in a 3 wood? I have a Ping Alta CB that came stock in my driver. My 3 wood shaft broke...is this something worth doing or?
Thoughts on aftermarket adapters? Ever seen one fail? (Adapter, NOT the epoxy/install) I got a titleist one that I micd and the adjustment cogs def didn’t do anything, but I have also used a cobra one that did get the angles right. Both seemed high quality. Just wanted your thoughts.
Do you ever use shafting beads for driver sleeves? I use them when installing my iron shafts but getting ready to install a new adaptor on a new driver shaft and was just checking. Thank you!
Hey I love the video. I have a question. My graphite shaft snapped just north of the adapter. Can I drill the adapter clean, and trim the driver shaft from the snap and then reuse the same shaft ? Thanks
You would need to trim at least another 1/2 inch off the shaft to make sure you get down to unfrayed graphite. That very likely means you would have a shaft that is now 2 inches shorter than standard and will feel very stiff. Can you do it, yes, would I recommend, no.
Still can’t release my adapter from shaft, on TaylorMade, going to phone their Customer service as it appears it’s not uncommon to get stuck. Once again cracking video.
Love your vids! 🙏💯 I have a general question regarding alignment of shaft logo and club head, since you mentioned it - I had a sporting good store install my 1w and 3w onto new graphite shafts - I requested that they line up the grip and shaft logos so that it's face up into a straight/square face... but they failed to do so. On graphite shaft, is it possible to reheat the hozel (hot water or heat gun) to slightly loosen the epoxy so that I can twist the hozel/head into better alignment with the shaft logos? Can it be done without any repercussion? - or would I have to uninstall, clean, and reinstall? Thanks again for sharing the wisdom!
I don't know if they're all the same but for the Taylormade driver I did, I had to install the standard setting (wasn't sure which setting I liked better yet) 180 out to have the shaft logo facing up in line like a stock build.
Love you channel! I have a question I was hoping you could help me with, I got fit for a TSR2 and the setting is D2, this puts the shaft graphics in a weird position. Can I simply heat up the adapter with a heat gun or torch and then turn it to the desired position and then let it dry? Will the epoxy reset? ...or do I have to do a full removal and re glue? Thank you!
Hi AJ, any tips when the shaft is too thick to go into the adapter and you need to sand away more material that the shaft will fit into the adapter and then it will not slide over the "lip" of the paint, so it does not go onto the shaft unless you go higher up and then you can end up with a bad finish where the two meet(meaning exposed graphite without paint). Thanks!
Couple options here. You could use a short ferrule if matching up with a non ferruled adapter like Mizuno or Srixon for example. The other option is just get the sanding close, don't worry if the shaft bottoms out in the adapter as long as it's at least in inch inserted. Just get it down to where the paint starts. You can tap it down a couple times on the floor to get it slightly deeper need be. If you prep the tip carefully and evenly, it should look even and clean with this method.
@@EFGMC Could I sand down my existing shaft to .335 then epoxy to .335 hosel?I play golf for exercise and am not exactly a fast or hard hitter.The shaft is an Aldillla shaft if it helps. Thanks.
@@Hahehhwgajshah72726.. I think if the shaft is not an ultra light, you should be fine. If it's a sub 60g shaft, I would be a little more concerned about weakening that tip with sanding.
How do you address the swing weighting. If you are removing an 85g shaft with the intent of replacing it with a 60g shaft, what do you need to do before attaching the adaptor to achieve the swing weight required?
Assuming you are keeping the same playing length, the 60g shaft will usually come out around 3 SWP lighter. You could install a shaft tip weight but that shortens the available hosel depth. Modern clubs are nice because you can just get heavier moveable weight to install. Or you could hotmelt the 6 grams.
If the tip of my shaft broke in the adapter will a new adapter be wide enough to put the shaft In there again if I trim it straight. . Please let me know so I don't waste money . I love that shaft and it snapped.
Going to be a very different shaft if you try to reuse it. You have lost over an inch of tip once you clean it up so it's going to be a good bit stiffer. Assume 1 flex stiffer, not to mention the length will be that much shorter. As far as will it fit, depends what shaft it is and how it was prepped the first time, and how much you need to remove to get to undamaged area. If you want to try it, first get some calipers and make sure you have a long enough parallel tip area that can fit inside the hosel and extend an extra inch past the hosel. Never sand down a shaft above the hosel line to get it to fit, as you will end up in the same place you are right now, aka another hosel snap.
Thanks for the quick reply. Problem is it's a hazardous extra stiff shaft already. Lol it would only be 44 inches once I prep the top. But I think a little shorter shaft would benefit me better. Might just buy the adjustable peice and try it out. I have the original shaft on my driver and it feels like a noodle when I swing it now. Regular flex and only 50 grams. My hazardous is 75 grams . Hope I can repair it.
Balance the o ring on end of shaft adapter and insert into hosel. Then put screw into other end and tighten until the o ring is over the screw threading.
Dang, I was actually looking for a tip on how to replace the screw that is inside the golf head that is going to attach that adapter. The process looks pretty straight forward but it can actually be a pain in the butt and I am sure a pro clubmaker such as yourself has an easy way?
The screw is held in with a rubber washer in most cases. I use a wood dowel slid into the hosel and pushing against the screw tip while I use the wrench on the other end to unscrew it from the washer.
I've always been told to fill the adapter with epoxy so that when fitting the adapter on the epoxy shoots up the tip of the shaft creating a stronger bond. Before I build my first aftermarket shaft (Ventus TR) have I been told wrong?
No, each brand has its own adapter and they won't work in each others. And some brands switch their adapter design over time so an older Taylormade adapter won't work on new heads.
Coming from the archery world where we are building carbon arrows with all of their components, it is not recommended to use Acetone as your final cleaning agent. Acetone will leave a film on your mating surfaces affecting the bond. Instead use 99% Isopropyl alcohol.
HI AJ, I know you are the man with all the answers, we have screwed the adapter screw on a driver to tight and now the screw is stripped and we can't get out with the wrench. Any ideas? Do you have a video on this one? Thanks again!
yes I tried that, the steel is so hard I can't even try to drill it out. The problem is I can't even make a cut on the screw head ( to try and use a screwdriver) as there is no room to work on it as it is recessed. Might be a good video if you are looking for ideas, I am sure it has happened before. Thanks anyways
@@sandrahachey7236 Not sure this would work but another option would be to epoxy a torque wrench tip to the screw head. Not sure this would work and would need to be careful not to get epoxy on the base of the screw but might be a last chance method.
I did. Just didn't show it. Always assume I use them even if I don't show it. Fully acknowledge they aren't necessary but I just like the feel of the build with beads during epoxying.
Does anybody know if the Taylormade M series driver tips will fit an R11s? Trying to send my dad some of my shafts to try, but I don't think they're compatible
Needs a strength of between 2500-4000 psi. Golf specific epoxy is a good idea though others will work if designed for similar bonding surfaces and match the lap sheer strength.
I use Golfworks Tour Set epoxy. 3M 420 is good, but expensive. Any of the golf specific epoxies that have a lap shear strength of over 2500psi should be good. Most important thing is making sure the bonding surfaces are clean, and the epoxy is mixed throughly.
I have never had a driver feel right since these adapters became the norm. It's like no matter what I set it to, it doesn't look right. I went back to a driver a brand built for me after the industry made the change and played it until I eventually had to pull out my Titleist with the adapter and just looking down at it, no matter the setting, looks and feels off. I can't be the only one. It feels like the adjustments are unnatural compared to the fixed shafts. I basically have to just trust the setting and adjust to accomodate, rather look down and have that old school traditional setup. Don't get me wrong, I still get results but it just doesn't have that touch like they used to. Are there any ways around these adapters these days?
Don't know anyone making a bonded driver head at this point. I will say I personally do not like any of the thicker hosel drivers like Callaway or Titleist as they just look oddly out of proportion to the head. I prefer the smaller adapter style of a Mizuno, Cobra, TM etc.
Are driver, fairway wood, hybrid the same adapter? Are driver, fairway woods, hybrid shafts the same tip diameter? How do manufacturers distinguish a left and right hand adapter? Like the video could have been a little more in-depth.
Hybrids are always different adapters because they are .355 or .370 tip. Fairway woods sometimes have a different adapter, it's brand specific. Usually LH adapters will have some sort of marking to indicate it.
Great video, never knew how the adapters were connected before I watched this. I now feel comfortable in putting a new shaft in my driver.
I usually use a little masking tape to I know where to stop removing the paint and then when I glue to keep the epoxy off the shaft and adapter. Just speeds up clean up. Just found you on CZcams and enjoying the videos
I was actually thinking the same, having never done this before that was my plan.
Thanks for the tips mate
Your videos are amazing, thank you so much!! Your content is accurate, precise, helpful and thorough without a bunch of filler etc 🙌
Looks super easy.
Thanks for that.
All I need now is a Cypher 50 grams stiff and a PXG adapter, and I’ll have my dream set up. 😉
I like to put the adapter in the head in the setting that it will be used and then assemble just like a normal club head. That way the shaft is easily oriented the way you prefer. Good tips as always though! Thanks!
Wish I woulda watched this prior to installing an adapter on an uncut shaft. Guess I can follow this after my adapter an head fly off my driver in the future because I didn't sand anything to help the bond XD.
Thank you man and Go Braves
Thanks great video
Hey AJ, thanks for all great contents on your channel. I have a question regarding this tho: I'm buying a used shaft and as for now it has been cut to 43.5" length. The owner said once fitted with adapter, the driver will measured at 45". I plan to fit it in my 2016 Taylormade M2 head. Also, my ideal length for a driver is somewhere 44.5' to 45" (from what I can remember from my last custom fitted back in 2014). Do you know if this length (43.5" with no adapter) still will give me my ideal length of 44.5 - 45"? Appreciate if you can help me with this, thank you in advance. - Muz @moose
Hi AJ.. BEEN looking online for the little brush (you had in your drill to rough up the adaptor inside to prep for the epoxy) but to No Avail.
Being im still very much a newbie and Residing in New Zealand the only places i go to are Golfworks and Billybobs.
If its a Golfworks part dont suppose you know what it is or WHERE i can get one?? Thankyou
Thanks AJ!
Every body shows fitting the driver shaft. My question is on a non adapter or direct bore you do not need to tip trim most shafts for a river. Do you need to tip trim when you use an adapter? Also, do you follow the manufacturers trimming suggestions for fairway and hybrid shafts?
Very good. How to remove a Taylormade SIM adapter. They seem to break when you take them off.
Awesome, thanks! What about removing an existing adapter? Maybe one day you could do a vid on that please :-)
Please!!!
go to hardware store and take the adapter and find a screw that screws into it. buy like a 2 and half inch or 3 inch .one that you can put a big washer on it near the head of the screw. Then you can heat the adapter and have the shaft puller hook behind the washer
Hi! Just watched this vid and have a question. You are making this driver for yourself and have installed the sleeve adaptor at a +1* setting and then matched it to the logos etc on the diamana shaft. Would it not be better to install sleeve adaptor in standard setting so that IF u decided to sell this driver then u do not have to either advise purchaser or pull off sleeve adaptor and then re-set to standard? IF the shaft logos are "cock-eyed" as u look down it at address, does would this not throw u off w your swing? (I know it would for me.....). Thanks.
Thank you
You can put the head on during assembly to aid in alignment.
Good video. Do you have a video on prepping a driver shaft for use in a 3 wood? I have a Ping Alta CB that came stock in my driver. My 3 wood shaft broke...is this something worth doing or?
czcams.com/video/oGtROvcN42U/video.html
Oh Aj what are the beautiful iron heads on the left side of the table? look so good!
Those are a set of Takomo 101 heads I am doing a custom build for a client with.
Thoughts on aftermarket adapters? Ever seen one fail? (Adapter, NOT the epoxy/install)
I got a titleist one that I micd and the adjustment cogs def didn’t do anything, but I have also used a cobra one that did get the angles right. Both seemed high quality. Just wanted your thoughts.
I think they are good overall. I have seen one snap in half right in the middle also. Check out the seller beforehand.
Do you ever use shafting beads for driver sleeves? I use them when installing my iron shafts but getting ready to install a new adaptor on a new driver shaft and was just checking. Thank you!
I use them for most anything. I am usually doing numerous builds at one time from one batch of epoxy so I go ahead and use them.
Hey I love the video. I have a question. My graphite shaft snapped just north of the adapter.
Can I drill the adapter clean, and trim the driver shaft from the snap and then reuse the same shaft ?
Thanks
You would need to trim at least another 1/2 inch off the shaft to make sure you get down to unfrayed graphite. That very likely means you would have a shaft that is now 2 inches shorter than standard and will feel very stiff. Can you do it, yes, would I recommend, no.
@@EFGMC lol I’ll try it out. worst case I’ll have a stiff shaft to compliment my new one. But thank you for the advice. I appreciate it
Still can’t release my adapter from shaft, on TaylorMade, going to phone their Customer service as it appears it’s not uncommon to get stuck. Once again cracking video.
Love your vids! 🙏💯
I have a general question regarding alignment of shaft logo and club head, since you mentioned it -
I had a sporting good store install my 1w and 3w onto new graphite shafts - I requested that they line up the grip and shaft logos so that it's face up into a straight/square face... but they failed to do so.
On graphite shaft, is it possible to reheat the hozel (hot water or heat gun) to slightly loosen the epoxy so that I can twist the hozel/head into better alignment with the shaft logos? Can it be done without any repercussion? - or would I have to uninstall, clean, and reinstall?
Thanks again for sharing the wisdom!
Need to pull the shaft and reinstall unfortunately. If they did it wrong, they should fix it free of charge.
@@EFGMC thanks so much!! 🙏
you're the best!!!!
I don't know if they're all the same but for the Taylormade driver I did, I had to install the standard setting (wasn't sure which setting I liked better yet) 180 out to have the shaft logo facing up in line like a stock build.
Is there beads pre mixed in your epoxy? And how vital is this if you have a good fit? Thanks
I add them but you do not need to use them if you don't want to. Won't change the result.
Love you channel! I have a question I was hoping you could help me with, I got fit for a TSR2 and the setting is D2, this puts the shaft graphics in a weird position. Can I simply heat up the adapter with a heat gun or torch and then turn it to the desired position and then let it dry? Will the epoxy reset? ...or do I have to do a full removal and re glue? Thank you!
You will want to remove it, clean everything and epoxy new. Far easier than trying to fish your driver head out of a pond if it flys off.
@@EFGMC LOL! Absolutely! Thanks for the reply!
Hi AJ, any tips when the shaft is too thick to go into the adapter and you need to sand away more material that the shaft will fit into the adapter and then it will not slide over the "lip" of the paint, so it does not go onto the shaft unless you go higher up and then you can end up with a bad finish where the two meet(meaning exposed graphite without paint). Thanks!
Couple options here. You could use a short ferrule if matching up with a non ferruled adapter like Mizuno or Srixon for example.
The other option is just get the sanding close, don't worry if the shaft bottoms out in the adapter as long as it's at least in inch inserted. Just get it down to where the paint starts. You can tap it down a couple times on the floor to get it slightly deeper need be. If you prep the tip carefully and evenly, it should look even and clean with this method.
Great video.Is there a adapter to fit a .350 tip shaft to a .335 driver head?
There are a few, but they are all from old models.
@@EFGMC Could I sand down my existing shaft to .335 then epoxy to .335 hosel?I play golf for exercise and am not exactly a fast or hard hitter.The shaft is an Aldillla shaft if it helps.
Thanks.
@@Hahehhwgajshah72726.. I think if the shaft is not an ultra light, you should be fine. If it's a sub 60g shaft, I would be a little more concerned about weakening that tip with sanding.
Does an older .350 Taylormade shaft adapter fit on the new stealth plus driver head?
No. The SLDR I believe is the transition club so anything before and including it, would use a different adapter.
How do you address the swing weighting. If you are removing an 85g shaft with the intent of replacing it with a 60g shaft, what do you need to do before attaching the adaptor to achieve the swing weight required?
Assuming you are keeping the same playing length, the 60g shaft will usually come out around 3 SWP lighter. You could install a shaft tip weight but that shortens the available hosel depth.
Modern clubs are nice because you can just get heavier moveable weight to install. Or you could hotmelt the 6 grams.
If the tip of my shaft broke in the adapter will a new adapter be wide enough to put the shaft In there again if I trim it straight. . Please let me know so I don't waste money . I love that shaft and it snapped.
Going to be a very different shaft if you try to reuse it. You have lost over an inch of tip once you clean it up so it's going to be a good bit stiffer. Assume 1 flex stiffer, not to mention the length will be that much shorter.
As far as will it fit, depends what shaft it is and how it was prepped the first time, and how much you need to remove to get to undamaged area.
If you want to try it, first get some calipers and make sure you have a long enough parallel tip area that can fit inside the hosel and extend an extra inch past the hosel.
Never sand down a shaft above the hosel line to get it to fit, as you will end up in the same place you are right now, aka another hosel snap.
Thanks for the quick reply. Problem is it's a hazardous extra stiff shaft already. Lol it would only be 44 inches once I prep the top. But I think a little shorter shaft would benefit me better. Might just buy the adjustable peice and try it out. I have the original shaft on my driver and it feels like a noodle when I swing it now. Regular flex and only 50 grams. My hazardous is 75 grams . Hope I can repair it.
How does one get the little black rubber o-ring on inside the driver head when putting in a new bolt ?
Balance the o ring on end of shaft adapter and insert into hosel. Then put screw into other end and tighten until the o ring is over the screw threading.
Dang, I was actually looking for a tip on how to replace the screw that is inside the golf head that is going to attach that adapter. The process looks pretty straight forward but it can actually be a pain in the butt and I am sure a pro clubmaker such as yourself has an easy way?
The screw is held in with a rubber washer in most cases. I use a wood dowel slid into the hosel and pushing against the screw tip while I use the wrench on the other end to unscrew it from the washer.
I've always been told to fill the adapter with epoxy so that when fitting the adapter on the epoxy shoots up the tip of the shaft creating a stronger bond. Before I build my first aftermarket shaft (Ventus TR) have I been told wrong?
Not good. Whoever told you this is very incorrect. More isn't better.
what kind of epoxy should i buy? there are tons of brands, which one is the most suitable for driver adapters?
I use Golfworks Tour Set. Bramptons is also good, as is 3M DP410 I think is the number. However it is very expensive.
Is it safe to whittle down a spare 0.350 shaft to a 0.335 shaft to fit the 0.335 adapter (without damaging the fibers and overall performance)?
Should be fine unless it's an ultralight shaft.
Many thanks for the quick response!
Is alcohol a good cleaner other thank acetone?
Yes, people say denatured alcohol works.
Is it possible to use a Titleist adapter on a Taylormade driver head?
No, each brand has its own adapter and they won't work in each others. And some brands switch their adapter design over time so an older Taylormade adapter won't work on new heads.
Coming from the archery world where we are building carbon arrows with all of their components, it is not recommended to use Acetone as your final cleaning agent. Acetone will leave a film on your mating surfaces affecting the bond. Instead use 99% Isopropyl alcohol.
I've never had an issue with acetone but I still might try the alcohol method.
Should one put the grip on before adapter, or does it matter?
Doesn't matter. I install grips last just because it's easier to line up shaft logos first and then grip logos once everything is dry.
HI AJ, I know you are the man with all the answers, we have screwed the adapter screw on a driver to tight and now the screw is stripped and we can't get out with the wrench. Any ideas? Do you have a video on this one? Thanks again!
I would try a larger hex torq bit to see if you can get it to catch. If not, I would do a search for removing stripped screws on Google.
yes I tried that, the steel is so hard I can't even try to drill it out. The problem is I can't even make a cut on the screw head ( to try and use a screwdriver) as there is no room to work on it as it is recessed. Might be a good video if you are looking for ideas, I am sure it has happened before. Thanks anyways
@@sandrahachey7236 Not sure this would work but another option would be to epoxy a torque wrench tip to the screw head. Not sure this would work and would need to be careful not to get epoxy on the base of the screw but might be a last chance method.
Question: what kind of epoxy? Thanks.
I use Golfworks Tour Set Plus.
@@EFGMC Thank you.
No centering beads? Just curious
I did. Just didn't show it. Always assume I use them even if I don't show it. Fully acknowledge they aren't necessary but I just like the feel of the build with beads during epoxying.
Does anybody know if the Taylormade M series driver tips will fit an R11s? Trying to send my dad some of my shafts to try, but I don't think they're compatible
The SLDR is the cut off for the current adapter. Anything before that (including R11s) uses the older version.
I notice you don't mention tip trimming?
what type of epoxy works best for this?
Needs a strength of between 2500-4000 psi. Golf specific epoxy is a good idea though others will work if designed for similar bonding surfaces and match the lap sheer strength.
When and how would a shim be used? Installation process?
czcams.com/video/t_53wkeGsyk/video.html
What kind of epoxy do you recommend?
I use Golfworks Tour Set epoxy. 3M 420 is good, but expensive. Any of the golf specific epoxies that have a lap shear strength of over 2500psi should be good. Most important thing is making sure the bonding surfaces are clean, and the epoxy is mixed throughly.
@@EFGMC Thank you! I wasn't sure if household epoxy was good enough.
Have you ever just replaced the adjustable setting pieces on Titleist or Callaway not the entire adapter?
I have not. Not sure how easy it is to pop them off over the lip.
@@EFGMC ok that’s what I was wondering. Have a shaft with a good adapter just needs the pieces replaced. Thanks again.
Follow up: just used a flathead drill bit, couple light taps with a hammer and both pieces fell off at once. Went on old adapter just as easy.
I have never had a driver feel right since these adapters became the norm. It's like no matter what I set it to, it doesn't look right. I went back to a driver a brand built for me after the industry made the change and played it until I eventually had to pull out my Titleist with the adapter and just looking down at it, no matter the setting, looks and feels off. I can't be the only one. It feels like the adjustments are unnatural compared to the fixed shafts. I basically have to just trust the setting and adjust to accomodate, rather look down and have that old school traditional setup. Don't get me wrong, I still get results but it just doesn't have that touch like they used to. Are there any ways around these adapters these days?
Don't know anyone making a bonded driver head at this point. I will say I personally do not like any of the thicker hosel drivers like Callaway or Titleist as they just look oddly out of proportion to the head. I prefer the smaller adapter style of a Mizuno, Cobra, TM etc.
Are driver, fairway wood, hybrid the same adapter? Are driver, fairway woods, hybrid shafts the same tip diameter? How do manufacturers distinguish a left and right hand adapter? Like the video could have been a little more in-depth.
Hybrids are always different adapters because they are .355 or .370 tip. Fairway woods sometimes have a different adapter, it's brand specific. Usually LH adapters will have some sort of marking to indicate it.
Spline alignment not a concern?
No
What does OEM stand for?
Original Equipment Manufacturer
@@EFGMC Thanks!
Are you serious? You have totally run out of material. I like you a lot and I wish I had suggestions.
su74ai
czcams.com/play/PLatBUqXIPJGj7c_CsXA3X6WeCYjRcT1Hz.html