GRAPHITE GOLF CLUB RESHAFT / SIMPLE AND INEXPENSIVE
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- čas přidán 27. 05. 2024
- In this video I show you how simple it is to install a new graphite shaft in your golf clubs. You don't need expensive custom tools, just basic hardware store supplies.
Link to Swing Weight Calculator video
• GOLF SWING WEIGHT CALC... - Sport
Pro tip: to prevent broken fibers, saw a shallow cut on opposite side of shaft first before you cut all the way through
I've swapped driver tips and reused my driver shaft 4 times with 4 different heads with just a a blow torch. No issues with reusing the shaft...
Great job. Nice instructional style.
Great information! Thank you!
Thanks for the support as always!
Good presentation. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Great video. I went and made the bench ruler that you have after watching one of your earlier video. Great idea and saved a bundle. Thanks!
I should probably just do a video on making that ruler!
@@EFGMC you should 👍
@@EFGMC you should! I've had a Golfworks bench ruler for a while and now I'm interested in modifying it like you have to make measurements even easier
Wish I could have seen your video before re-shafting my driver....learned a couple of hints that would have saved me some headaches. Wish I would have had a shaft puller so I didn't ruin the old shaft.....it would have made a nice shaft for one of my hybrids. Thanks for the video!
If it makes you feel any better, most hybrids use a .370 or .355 shaft while most drivers are .335 and probably too long at stock lengths to be used in a hybrid. By the time you cut them down, the butt end diameter can end up too small.
Either way, thanks for watching!
also practice make perfect, heat it slightly more, the shaft can take it. then pull straight without twisting. Sometime when I do small work for friends and family at the local club I just have my tool box with butane torch, I pull by hand without causing damage.
do you still have your old shaft? if you only ruin the tip the shaft can be saved because you need to tip trim that much anyway. you can use a shim to make .335 inch tip to fit a larger hosel
. I think the biggest problem is the weight, you need much heavier shaft for hybrids because they are basically long iron length, the shaft should do nicely in a 5 or 7 wood though.
@@humorss You're right. Full disclosure, I can't remember the last time I actually pulled a graphite shaft by hand. Good practice!
@@EFGMC although bad practice per clubmaking guidelines, I don't pull expensive graphite shaft by hand. Professionalism is good but it makes club tinkering looks harder than it actually is, I wish more people can start working on their own clubs.
My 60 degree Ping graphite shaft broke probably due to hard hitting in bunkers. I might try your method as you explained. God bless.
Great video!
I would like to ask you how to shorten a 6 hibrid iron too long (39,25). Could I cut the bottom without other operations?
Many thanks
great video, do you have any video's of changing from steel shaft's to graphite and if it is possible to do so. I heard it said that it ok or no it not recommended?
Excellent video AJ. Concise and straightforward. I just built a set of T100s irons with graphite shafts. I was looking for tip weights that would not require tip trimming in case I decided to reuse the graphite shafts again in future builds. Do you have any recommendations for brass or other tip weights (4-6g) that would accomplish this. I found some on eBay but the diameter of the tip weight needed to be sanded down to fit in the shaft tip, plus the vent hole wasn’t down the middle which required that I drill a tiny vent hole in the wall of the shaft. Scary! Cheers!
I buy all my weights from Golfworks. Certain shafts though have very small vent holes to start with (Aerotech for example), which makes it very difficult to fit the tip weights. The other option is tungsten powder down the shaft though that will change the feel a bit.
@@EFGMC Thx for the info. Yes, my new shafts are Steelfibers which caused me some issues fitting the tip weights.
Great video. One tip I found that makes it easier is a cheap tube or pipe cutter. The kind that you spin around the shaft and tighen. Very simple and makes a very clean cut.
He explains how this is exactly what not to do. Lol
What difference does it make to cut the bottom of the shaft off and re-use it? Can we have a video on that?
Are you supposed to cut both ends of the shaft? Or are you cutting for a specific length?
Thanks for the video, really insightful. I noticed you saw an inch of the bottom and also when gripping also the top of the shaft. Do you have to saw twice? Can you just saw one side and be able to do re-shaft, or is this just preference as long as you get your desired length and all fits add up?
Thanks, Tom
You cut from the tip end to stiffen the shaft up depending on what number head it's going into. The shorter the club, the heavier the head, so you want the shaft to be able to support that additional weight. Cutting from the butt end is for the final length. If you only cut from the butt end, the shaft will be more flexible and you CAN'T only cut from the tip b/c the shaft starts to taper out after a few inches so it won't fit inside the hosel if you cut more than 3 inches usually.
@@EFGMC copy! thanks for the info and fast response
@@EFGMC I ordered new raw shafts for my three hybrids (2h, 3h and 5h). how much do you recommend I cut off from the tip for each length club?
@@futurizo The manufacturer usually has recommended tip trimming instructions on their website. Usually it goes in 1/2 inch increments per number club. Something like 1/2 inch for the 2h, 1 inch for 3h, 2 inch for 5h. Again I would check the website though.
What are your thoughts on tip prepping with a razor blade? I was taught that was an option (using downward scrapes from butt to tip) if you weren’t confident in finessing the belt sander.
Good way to do it. Just make sure the blade is never facing the same direction that you scrape or you will cut into the fibers. Blade angled towards you, and scrap away from you.
Thanks for all the great videos. I have question. I want to remove the head from the shaft without using a shaft puller. For that the club is positioned vertical with the help of a firm clamp. Now I attach a weight of say 80 kg at the clubhead and after that I heat the hosel until the heads with the weight drops down. Would this be an option and how much weight is needed?
Maybe?? Weight would be determined by the brand and epoxy used. Worried it might take more weight than is manageable, at least to get it to release fast enough where the shaft doesn't overheat. This is all guessing though. Let me know if you end up trying it how it works.
If there is a ferrule I advice first of all heating that up slightly and then getting if of the adapter -- use anything that is thin and scrape it off. The ferrule is lost as the plast´ic bends, but afterwards it does not stick to the adapter!
slide an open end wrench over the shaft but is small enough to catch the hozzle and tap it off. That way you don't ruin the shaft. Just like a puller. It will remove it without twisting.
Love your videos! Really helped my confidence in starting club building. Do you have a recommendation on how to pull a shaft and adapter with simple tools that will NOT ruin the shaft?
I've seen some pullers built from aluminum can crushers but I have never tried it. I recommend investing in a shaft puller. Even the base model versions are going to be 100x better than not using one.
Thanks, I will let you know.
Curious . . . If we did this with plans to cut a full inch from the tip does that change the level of concern with how the tip is handled?
Obviously I don't have and would prefer delaying obtaining a puller.
Thanks for all the superb content.
You could cut the tip right at the hosel though the amount you end of cutting will vary by brand and model. Could be more than 1 inch.
@@EFGMC Thank you. Guess this is my ignorance, but in the example of the one you pulled that the end was fouled up or another one that the portion under the club or adapter melted - - Could you cut it behind that and still use it? Or would it take more than an inch to make it useable, thus making it somewhat unusable due to length?
Thanks again!
@@brich2065 You would lose that inch you cut off so the final length may be too short for your liking in the new club. That would be the main issue.
To save shaft could you get an open end wrench same size as shaft,put it just above ferrule and tap with a hammer to push head off much like a puller?
That sounds like it should work. Never tried it though.
Can I use a graphite shaft designed to be used with an adapter on an old wood that has its shaft epoxied in place?
Yes, same process.
Are most graphite shafts the same to start whether you’re fitting them to driver or a set of irons?
Probably should say there are 3 shafts. 1 for irons, though some are pre tip cut to install directly into the specific irons and some need to be tipped for the specific iron. One for hybrids, that are usually the same tip diameter as the irons but are often a bit longer raw length. Then one for woods, smaller tip diameter (.335 inch), and longer raw length (46 inches). Sometimes you will also see specific fairway wood shafts.
It looks like you usually use more than one layer of tape when you re-grip a club. Is this because you prefer a thicker grip? ... or is it so you have a stronger hold of the grip to the shaft?
Also, I have found Winn grips, and some wrap grips, somewhat more difficult to install. They’ve gotten better, but do you have any tips for installing particularly difficult grips?
Learning a lot from your videos.
Keep up the good work. 👍🏻
Totally based on size requested. On my personal clubs I like 1/64 over standard size which is between standard and midsize. I do 2 wraps of masking tape then 1 wrap of grip tape.
Winn grips or others with a hard rubber piece on each end are always more difficult. Better to not build them up as they don't stretch much. Keep them warm always helps, ie don't install outside in the cold. Also use plenty of solvent. Last tip, slide the tip over the shaft at a 45 degree angle just until it's on, then bring the grip up to parallel with the shaft to slide it on.
Hopefully some of these will help!
I use an air compressor as an aid with Winn grips. It makes it so much easier. You can find instructional videos on CZcams explaining how.
When I have to cut a graphite shaft, I put an old grip on the shaft and then use my chop saw to cut the shaft to length. Then remove the old grip and voila, no splinters.
AJ do you just automatically cut off 1 inch of the shaft before prepping or to make sure you have a square edge? Also, is shaft length measured from where you can see it above the hosel to the end of the shaft (where the grip goes on) A club fitter recommended that I shorten the shaft of my driver by 1/2" which is easy because its just a matter of cutting off the grip end but what if I buy a new shaft and re-shaft it myself. Sorry if these are stupid questions but I can save loads of $ by reshafting myself. Thanks so much! Rick
I cut 1 inch off the tip because that particular shaft recommended those tipping measurement when installing into that loft head.
You want to measure the shaft installed in the club usually to get the final length though if you have the old shaft you can just line the new one up against the old one to find the correct length.
Thanks so much. Makes perfect sense. Love your content. So helpful and informative without expensive and unnecessary equipment. Awesome !
AJ, how much do you think a place like Golfers Warehouse would charge me to pull a graphite shaft for reuse?
Should be between $10-$20.
@@EFGMC thanks!
I cover the loose fibers with a little glue so it doesn’t continue to splinter. Cut them with scissors first.
I did two experiments both using irons, a propane flame and a weight of 40 kg hanging on the club head.
The first head came off the shaft after 15 seconds, the second after 33 seconds.
15s sounds okay, 33s with propane would concern me with a graphite shaft.
Can you tell the name of liquid you used when changing the grip and the thing used in clubhead? Thanks!
The grip solvent and 24 hour epoxy I used were both from Golfworks.
@@EFGMC Thanks for your reply. "Brampton PRO-FIX Glass Shafting Beads - Golf Club Shaft Installation Stabilizer - Increase Bond Strength" Is this one necessary after using epoxy?
@@goforbirdies I use shafting beads. Don't know if it's necessary but I bought a jar and it will probably last me for the next 30 years. Installation stabilizer should not be necessary if you have a good fit to start with. A bunch of brass shims will take care of that.
Grip solvent = mineral spirits
Would you recommend a coping saw?
If you have a high enough blade tooth count.
Is there such thing as an inexpensive but quality shaft puller?
Golfworks sells one for around $120 I think that is very basic but works. I've also seen some homemade options, which has been a video idea for a while.
How much play,or space, can there be between shaft and adaptor when shaft is in adaptor before glue is applied?
Enough that you can rotate the shaft around in the hosel but not so much that it can lean at an angle.
You can use a pen or pencil to measure how much to sand the tip if it doesn’t fit
Any ideas on how to pull graphite shafts without destroying them? So far I think the shaft puller is necessary...
I have had some people tell me they are able to pull shafts by hand without twisting or bending them, just using more heat. I personally don't love that idea. Honestly, if you are planning on doing this more than once or twice, I would go ahead and buy a shaft puller. Doesn't need to be expensive, just one that can attach to a vice.
@@EFGMC yea I typically will pull iron heads off of steel shafts at home, otherwise I just drop down to a local shop and have them pull graphite stuff - it doesn't happen too often fortunately and the guys at the shop usually will pull one for free and a couple for $2/$3 bucks a pop, no big deal.
is the vice clamp attached to the table by bolts?
Must be sir for a bench vice to work properly unless u have a removable jig on ur workbench. Hope this helps
Yes, it's bolted down.
Q: I've heard that it's a good idea to gently use a box cutter or exacto-knife to very lightly peel away the paint on the tip prior to sanding down (I think there's a video of a guy doing this on YT). Is this not necessary?
You can do that method also. If you are sanding though, it's not necessary. I discuss this method in some of my earlier videos. Most important thing is to angle the blade towards you and scrape away from you. This ensures you don't cut into the fibers and only scrape away the paint.
Which video are you referring to? I can’t find one where you demonstrate the box cutter method, though I’m fast forwarding through them to try to find that specific excerpt so I probably missed it. Thanks
@@BeastMR2 Here you go.
czcams.com/video/TPH-EdFIs7Y/video.html
It's around the 6min mark.
Hi, what kind of epoxy did you use?
Two part golf epoxy from Golfworks. Can also use Brampton, or 3M among other.
Im glad i came across your channel! I got a question though. I want to have my wedges match my irons that have graphite shafts. Do I have to worry about the swing weight and all that if I just install the graphite wedge shafts and butt trim them to the standard length that taylormade has on their website?
Changes in shaft weight will affect swing weight. Basic rule is 9g of shaft weight change = 1SWP change. However if you are using the same weight shaft in the wedges as in the irons (or close to) and keep the same length, then you should see a similar progression in swing weight. If you don't have a SW scale, you can use one of the online SW calculators to figure out the SW during a dry fit before you epoxy anything.
Did this video on online SW calculators.
czcams.com/video/sJALUBr51jI/video.html
@@EFGMC thanks for the reply. I'll watch that video to get the steps. Appreciate it
Could a stiff shaft in a lighter weight produce similar results as a regular flex shaft in a heavier weight, same shaft, same head, same golfer?
there are a lot of assumption here. assuming both clubs are same in playing length, you will likely need to add some weight to the club head to get the swing weight the same as the club with the heavier shaft. this can cause the stiff but light shaft to play softer. How soft is not easy to say, but you will likely swing the club slightly faster (
Yes, or no. Different golfers will notice and react to weight and or flex changes differently. Some may hit one of those combos more consistently. Some might not even notice a difference unless the differences become large enough, say 2 flexes different or 20g weight change.
@@EFGMC I was thinking more in lines of 10 grams
@@humorss I was looking at lighter for a little more club head speed and the stiff so it’s not so whippy
@@kevinwood1722 Only one person can answer that question. Like I said some golfers will feel and see a difference one way or the other, some won't.
What kind of epoxy do you use?
Golfworks Tour Set Plus for most jobs.
Why did you cut one inch off the shaft to start with? Perhaps it would have fit in the hosel as is. Please advise.
trimming the tip will cause the shaft to become slightly stiffer. you can find a bend profile graph for some golf shaft, its clear that typical shafts are soft at the tip. usually the shorter the club the stiffer the shaft needs to be, the same shaft can be used from driver to 7 wood so it needs to be trimmed to your spec or the trimming guide that shaft came with.
The shaft was a .370 tip hybrid shaft needing to be tipped (cut off tip end first) to make the shaft stiff enough to support the head weight and flex correctly to launch at the desired height. If I had been using a #1 hybrid, I would not have tipped at all, a #5 hybrid would have been 2 inches.
Most shafts have around 3-4 inches of parallel area so that you can tip them to the desired club for install.
This however is not the case with taper tip (.355) shafts. Those you would never cut from the tip because you would remove the smaller tip area required for some iron and hybrid heads. These shafts will be sold at specific lengths to go into certain club numbers.
@@humorss Thanks. I didn't know this
@@EFGMC Thanks. I'm learning therefore, didn't realize this about the last 3-4 inches on a shaft
@@garyleahy4537 When you look at shaft specs for wood and hybrid shaft, they will also include a parallel tip measurement that tells you how much room you have to cut before the shaft starts to taper out larger. Used to be more important back when Titleist and Callaway had bore thru head designs.
Can you use gorilla glue instead of epoxy?
I would advise against it.
So what if I don’t have a shaft puller and am trying to save the shaft?
Some people make their own, still trying to find a design I like enough to highlight in a video.
No shaft beads?
Probably used them just didn't show it. I always use them as a why not sort of thing. Not sure whatever benefit you get from them is even measurable though.
There are special blades made to cut graphite shafts without causing the splinters at the butt or tip. For around $5, why take a chance on destroying a shaft with a hacksaw?
Why did you cut the tip end off instead of the butt end?
Cut off both ends. Might not have shown in video. Cut the tip end to match the shaft to the specific number head you are using, then cut from the butt end for length.
If reusing the shaft, when removing an adapter, would you just apply a bit more heat and pull straight off (no twisting)?
I keep melting the obviously plastic adapters with a heat gun. Almost immediately.
Pipe cutter bad. Hacksaw better. Dremel with abrasive cutoff wheel best.
Watch your fingers, graphite splinters are the worst!
Nothing worse than a raw shaft =D