2004 2005 2006 Sprinter Turbo Actuator P2099 P2043 adjustment replacement problems
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- čas přidán 20. 03. 2017
- Had a turbo break on my sprinter. Ordered a turbo only without actuator. Old actuator worked but wouldn't line up, well I thought. Ordered new actuator barely fit because arm length. Got limp mode and code P2099 so changed everything. Resonator, Hoses, All Sensors, Exhaust System and even cleaned/tested EGR valve. Still limp mode. Figured out actuator and turbo need to be set in engine bay to get right home position for actuator to waste gate arm. Video has full description of what I had to go through. Thanks and hope it helps someone.
Thank you for this video, same scenario, spun the turbo about 3/16 of an inch and all the limp mode problems we have been having are gone. 6 screws btw. Awesome advice
You are a winner. I’m having the same issue and have researched before I spent bigger money and you hit it out of the park. Thanks for sharing.
After spending thousands of dollars having same exact problem, luckily i fund this video you just saved me lot of money... THANKS !!
Dude! this might be the video I needed to see! Thank you for explaining. I basically did everything you did with hoses and sensors resonator still nothing. thank goodness it doesn't go into limp mode but it sure does bog down and rolls coal up hills and stuff. I have touched the gate arm arm before and seemed a little loose but on there. Im gonna go clock the turbo today and hope it fixes it!
thank you for the enlightenment from that video , as i have been having similar problem w904 sprinter 2003 ,changed turbo , sensors and acuator also , goes well along the flat but hills no going up at good speed , so i called it a can hardly get up hill , but will try that as spoken with a mechanic , he stated after i said waht you reckon about clocking his reply staemenn, was never heard of it , so guess i will not be asking for further advice , stay safe happy driving
Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
Thanks alot clocked my turbo and now shes running great thanks for the video God bless!!!
Thank you for posting this video. Although my 2004 is running well at this time, I like to see what the different codes mean and what needs to be done to fix them.
Thank you friend you are helping a lot of guys out with this beautiful and instructional video, you rock keep on posting when you can god bless you 😇🤗
Thanks for the hard won information! You helped me out.
I have no problems now but am waiting the day when I'll be needing this info for my 2004. Thanks!
Boom, same
No homo man I love you lol. I've been working on one of these and you answered several questions I had about what goes where and where certain sensors were and you just gave me the answers to what I've read 900 forums to find out. Great work brother!
No problem, glad I can help.
This was so helpful thank you so much! I just installed a turbo and this solve the problems I was having too!!! Awesome! Many thanks!
good video, info like this takes ages to figure out, not to mention the $ on parts swapping.
Nice one fella, respect, thanks for sharing.
great explanation thanks!
Great info, thanks for taking the time to explain the whole story.
Thanks bud , big help 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
I removed the shield before clocking the turbo. It makes the job much easier and no scratched knuckles. :-)
The actuator arm was up, shooting too high. But I believe even if it was too low it will cause problems. When you put the turbo and actuator together on the bench you really don't know the home position. So I say put the turbo and actuator together on the bench but don't put the actuator control arm until it's in the van. Start the van move actuator arm up and drop, rev the engine then shut the van off. You'll see it won't be in the same position as it was when it was installed. Unless you got lucky when you put it together. Good Luck hope this helps.
so actuator arm lines up when turbo arm is in middle? or at top but not tight?
On bench, the actuator arm barely squeezed onto waste gate arm. So, after putting on engine, separating arms, revving, etc.,... when clocking turbo, do I stop with waste gate arm all the way down, all the way up, or in middle. That's the confusing part.
From what I remember it was closer to the top.
great Video, I have the same problem, I tried to "clock" the turbo like you said, it didnt work because when I turn it counter clockwise, the turbo (intake side) will hit a metal hose right underneath it.
I Thank u b 4 even Checking mine .
Can someone explain what clocking a turbo means?
Was the waste gate arm UP or DOWN when you "lined it up" with actuator arm?
Thanks or the info!
Is not a Waste Gate...the actuator move vines inside ...... IS A VARIABLE TURBINE.
Good to know. i will disconnect the actu. arm. before doing anything!
thank You
How did you reach the bottom bolts? 3 are easy, one you can feel your way on to, and I think there are 2 that I can't even see.
so I'm wondering what makes a turbo UNCLOCK and is their any Mercedes Benz documentation on clocking the turbo someone would be kind enough to share? banging a turbo with a pipe is not a procedure I can execute.
Having identical problem, will replace turbo tomorrow, very curious now
Haha, the day has come from my post below. My turbo is sounding like it has gravel in it and went into LHM, bearings maybe, idk yet
My turbo blew up, snapped the shaft. I have no idea why. I got a new cartridge and was first getting a high boost error. Now I'm getting an O2 sensor code, low voltage. I did have a sticky wastegate but it fixed itself. I took the O2 sensor out and it was completely covered with soot. I cleaned it with a hot touch and brake cleaner. I have decent highway speed but I can tell it's in some kind of limp mode. If I come to a stop and pull out, it dumps blk smoke. Any ideas?
This is a guess, did you look at the catalytic converter? When this happened a few mechanic friends said check cat as when turbos blow up it spews a lot oil and soot that can clog them. Just a thought, good luck!
@@bajrammemshofski6649 no cat. Short exhaust
My Turbo went out on my way home from work today sitting here in my van don't know what to do I made it home but I don't have the power I used to have the turbo got real loud and all sudden when quiet I was on the highway going highway speeds
Thanks my man! Mine goes into limp mode and when I cycle the key it’s fine again until idle when it goes back into limp mode. Probably the actuator bad?
Can you tell me what/how to cycle the key?
dirk obrien I've seen many EGRs go bad on these. Replacing EGR fixed my limp mode. I think this guy's turbo failed from lots of miles. Check for air leaks in giant hose up front and throughout intercooler and air system. Carbon build up in intake is sadly yet another common issue.
I seem to have loss of power and I swear I hear a air noise. I checked all hoses, resonator, etc. I didn’t check the actuator arm moving by reving the engine b/c it's just me. I guess I could of took off the arm but didn't do it yet. I did unplug the turbo press switch and noticed a engine sound change. Any ideas? Like I said, I seem to have loss of power and loss of fuel economy.
What year and what van? Is the check engine light on?
Having the same problem right now did you figure out how to fix it ? I need help 2003 dodge sprinter
@@williamtoch7435 I bought a scanner from harbor freight. Originally the FPR failed then the one bought was also bad, eBay junk. I had a high and low rail pressure. The new FPR fixed the high rail, now still have low. One of my injectors is bad. Have to get one good injector and do one at a time until I find the bad one. Apparently it fails at high pressure and dumps fuel, causing the low rail. Dealing with this for 6 months !!!!
@@frontlinemedia4270 so you got boost errors because of a bad injector? would like to hear the results.
@@markpasieka I never had error codes because of any bad injector. I'm trying to remember what this particular problem was, I've had so many. I had the fuel pressure relief valve go bad once. I had leaking injector seals. And I am currently in a strange Limp mode again. This time thinking it's my Chinese bought EGR. know anyone that has a OEM EGR non working that I can buy? I want to use parts from it
Thank you ... had a p2043 a couple months ago in my 06' it cleared it self within 24 hrs... thought it was EGR or Inj.
Having an EGR prob right now and the vents were 60% to 70% occluded... I cleansed it and it stalled out and blew the base gasket... WTF?
Any Ideas ? ? ? Many Blessings , SMR
Base gasket of what?
👌👌👍👍✌
How long did this turbo last? Planing to order an gt2256v from ebay as well thanks
Over a year before I sold the van. Rusted out bad, but ran Great
5 thousand for a turbo gee how come you didn't go for that?
They must be frikkin crazy.
Hello Everyone,I owed a 2006 Dodge Sprinter 2500, i love it, but one of this days while I was driving on highway lost power, so it wouldn't go more 50 or 60 mph, I took it the Dodge Dealer they did like 4 different things that costed me almost $1600, I picked it up and test it on highway and still not power at all. I took back to them, at this point I haven't heard from them.
Any recommendations or advice about it will be greatly appreciated.
Not light on on dash.
Thank you!
Eleuterio Amador hey man i’d love to know what happened with your vehicle, any luck?
What is your opinion on the turbo after having used for a couple years I hope?
I sold the van after a year and it was running perfectly fine. It just had too much rust so I got a newer one.
Did your turbo shut off randomly and then if you pulled over and reset the key it was ok for some time ?
Yes, that also happened when I had a crack in the intake hose. If you didn't change the turbo or actuator I'd look at all hoses first. Squeeze all air hoses, sometimes the crack isn't visible until you squeeze them. Good Luck
Yes I replaced the same hoses and sensors as you did and also bought a new turbo and actuator but am still having the problem. I am going to try your fix today.
Thanks
Hi, the term limp mode describes what my van is doing. I had an "upgrade done" because I got something in the mail saying I needed it done..(even though my gut told me NO!)
After that the technicians could not get my van started. Then they got it started and had to leave the MAF sensor disconnected. I got a new MAF sensor and changed the air filter which was badly damaged and clogged. I hoped that was what was the problem. I drove it about 100 km and then it lost power and I "limped" home. No power going uphill and no passing power. I cannot afford to take it to a mechanic. I will buy a diagnostic tool but someone else previously mentioned an actuator problem so I am leaning toward this as being the problem cause it sounds right. I believe I can follow instructions to change this. Any more details will be helpful.
Thanks for your info
Check all the intake hoses first after turbo ( Cold Side of Turbo). There was a little tear in hose going into the intake underneath and was real hard to find which took me while to find and fix. Caused limp mode constantly. This was before the turbo went out. So first make sure there isn't any leaks in the hoses. Any pressure lost in intake hoses puts the sprinter into limp mode because it thinks the turbo isn't working. Also the resonator seals break and loose pressure, too. CZcams "Sprinter Turbo Resonator Fails", "Sprinter Turbo Hoses Failing" "Sprinter Limp Mode".... I'm pretty sure it's something simple, especially if nothing mechanical broke like my turbo did. Hopefully this helps. Good Luck!
@@hidefguys I, with '06, had same problem with original Sprinter intake rubber hose with break at the top hose mount and a split in the hose. Bought a cheap China hose and it was very stiff hose (MB hose has good flex). So later even with China hose still working I bought the MB brand hose and installed cause that stiff China hose can mess up other parts especially in Cold Chicago Winters. Get a piece of thin Aluminum sheet with two large O clamps (hose clamps) and use that as a patch until you can get the van home so
you can avoid limp mode in the future if the hose fails at 120K miles again. I came upon the aluminum sleeve trick while waiting for the first replacement hose to arrive.
@@vincentrolfe1384 slice a soda can? interesting idea...what did you actually use out of curiosity
Hey can I ask ya ,what year would you say is a better one to buy ,on the Diesel engine on these. ? I don't want the DEF system years....Unless they have a delete kit & tuner. ? thanks. Oh ,I'm going to build a RV out of one, or buy a Built RV with t e Mercedes sprinter platform.
Jim Cash. 2002-2006 have no DEF at all, just EGR and SCR
@@IgnoreSolutions what's an SCR?
@@markpasieka SCR = selective catalyst reduction. aka the actual exhaust portion of the DEF system.
Can I purchase an inside sliding door handle...mines broken and I can’t source any here in Barbados
they do not have eBay in Barbados? how sad....
So at idle is the arm supposed to be up or down?
It was in the middle closer to down. I had it too high one time and too low 2nd time. Best thing to do is not connect arm at all, run it for a minute or 2 then reconnect it. You'll see it'll be in a totally different place. Good Luck!
bajram memshofski does this only happen when you change turbos?
@@dieselkumar6451 it did happen when I changed the turbo and actuator. But to say that it can't be off after some time, I would say it can. It seemed that the actuator goes to a home position when you turn off the engine. So to check it just disconnect the arm while engine running, move it up and down a couple times and turn off the engine. If it doesn't line up after that then you have to clock the turbo like i explained in the video. Good Luck
bajram memshofski thanks for the help. Quick question though, whenever I unplug my egr or barometric sensor on the intake the actuator arm changes. When both of those sensors are plugged in the arm is pretty far down and when I unplug 1 then the arm goes back up. I should also mention I don’t have the air box sensor hooked up since I don’t have an air box.
New catalytic converter 😂
Hello
Make your own dealership, you're better than them... What they need is people money with their crap professional 😡😡
Thanks! :)
Set and done it still costed you as much as an OEM !! Nice try
Next Problem, Google "Florida Van Man" he would have spotted your problem for you, before you spent a dime :) he's helped me out already!