Is your T1N Sprinter turbo properly clocked? & What does that even mean?
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- čas přidán 15. 06. 2020
- Is your T1N Sprinter turbo is aligned properly? Also known as "clocking the turbo", this verifies your actuator is not hitting physical limits of the turbo vanes. This is an easy verification process and not a difficult adjustment if one is needed.
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First and foremost! Your descriptions are spot on, and you don’t take two hours to explain how to put a wrench on a nut. Your directions are clear and concise and to the point and incredibly helpful. So I just want to commend you! Thank you for being so helpful and I will be getting parts from you because I have a sprinter that I don’t know what’s going on with but with the help of these videos I’m sure I’ll be able to figure it out. I’m on the East Coast and the van is on the West Coast.
That drive belt illustration looks great on your back door .lol
I always look forward to your videos. Thanks for this one!
My pleasure!
I miss you guys. Thanks for another great video
More to come!
excellent video, many thanks👍
Yeah, first!!!!!!!
nice
Thanks
I was about to install a rebuilt turbo (genuine housing / new CHRA) and watched this video. I transferred my actuator over and found that when I held the turbo linkage at it's highest point that the actuator wouldn't reach it. So I did this adjustment before installing so the actuator arm would perfectly reach the turbo linkage arm and slip on perfect at its maximum height. After installing I find my turbo won't build more than 15.5 psi and after about 5-10sec at that psi the computer throws 2359-1 "charge boost too low". Now I'm thinking maybe I shouldn't had adjusted it to begin with. Any input? Thinking I'm not going to have to pull the turbo back off, transfer my actuator back to the old turbo so I can see how the actuator and linkage were lined up on my original unit. Any other input? Also wanted to comment just so others can see this could potentially cause an issue
Aligning the linkage is important. If the sweep of the actuator and sweep of the linkage are lined up, you surely did no harm by adjusting it. Many folks have had trouble with replacement cores in a Garrett housing. Turbos arena of those items I won't buy cheap because I've had too much trouble with cheap. If that CHRA cost less than $400 I'm sure that is the problem.
Wondering if a system could get "un-clocked" through normal use or would someone have had to mess with it to get it in need of the procedure. Wondering what is the likelihood of this being needed.
If it has ever been replaced the chances are good. Not many T1N's are still sporting original turbos and even fewer mechanics check the alignment when installing a replacement. Since our turbo actuators work on "more or less" commands this isn't a problem until the actuator hits a physical limit of the adjustable vanes.
I replaced my turbo resonator. After driving for about and hour or 2 I hear turbo leak and when I accelerate I see that the turbo is not kicking in.. and that keeps on happening every 30/50 miles after that.. all I need to do is turn off and turn back the ignition on for the turbo to kick back.. I’m unable to narrow down the reason.. can you please help me find why that’s happening
Did you replace with aluminum or another plastic resonator? New or used? Find me on Facebook for faster communication.
What are the symptoms of a turbo that is not clocked correctly?
Boost error codes and limp mode. If the actuator isn't aligned with the turbo it will be unable to reach one end of adjustment. Either the turbo won't be able to turn down all the way (produce no boost) or it will not be able to turn up all the way for maximum boost pressure. Some aftermarket turbos on Amazon are being shipped with short actuator arms and cannot be clocked properly to reach fully open and closed.
Recently a mechanic disabled my wastegate when my bad egr was putting me into limp mode. I replaced the egr and reattached the wastegate parts under the van. I have had terrible mpg since. Would mounting from under the van without removing the arm like you did, cause my turbo to never fully unengage?
I don't expect it matters where you are when connecting it, but you want to be sure the little arm on the turbo is all the way up when the longer piece of linkage lines up. if you need to drop the one arm to meet the other, or need to force them together, the turbo may need to be clocked. We have a video for checking that.
More likely your intakes adaptive setting are way off. Perhaps you drove more than a couple trips with the waste gate disconnected? It may adjust itself back within a few tanks. Resetting the adaptive settings is an option, but requires DAS and can set back the progress already made by the last tank of diesel.
Turbo clocked but now my turbo resonator won’t line up with its bracket. What to do
We have seen this before when someone bent a support bracket to make the resonator fit with the turbo way off. If your support bracket looks bent I would replace it. Plenty of folks are parting out Sprinters so you can get a used one cheap.
How does a turbo become "unclocked", other than by loosening the turbine from the exhaust or actuator from turbo (or obviously replacing the turbine)?
It doesn't, but when the turbo is replaced it does not always line up as the old one did, even when purchasing a new complete unit.
@@FloridaVanMan Thanks. That's what I thought, but you know Sprinter owners...paranoid that everything isn't 'just right'.
I was working on a 2006 sprinter that threw a P0401 EGR flow insufficient code. It had a new egr valve on it that was working properly and what looked like a newer turbo. When I pulled off the intake pipe near the egr valve there was quite a bit of oil in there.
Then I saw a lot of oil around all the air hoses from the turbo to the intake. The turbo seems to be passing an excessive amount of oil.
Do you think this is likely the cause of the EGR code?
Would you recommend replacing the turbo?
Nope. Our turbos are have oil vapor coming through them from the crankcase breather. Some oil in the intake is normal. Where did the new EGR come from and what brand is it? If it is not Whaler or Pierburg I don't trust it. Amazon sells a bunch of cheap junk. RockAuto sells only cheap junk. Test the MAF before replacing anything. czcams.com/video/3nylx7bZO0g/video.html
@@FloridaVanMan the egr valve looked like the oem one. I don’t remember the brand. But I tested it with my software and it was opening and closing on command and I pulled it off and everything seemed to be working properly.
The customer said they were driving on the interstate and the van essentially derated to 65 mph. They pulled over shut it off and when they turned it on it had a CEL with that fault code. However, when they started driving again the vehicle got up to speed and the CEL cleared out on its own.
I’ve had a lot of EGR issues with Cummins engines caused by excessive oil in the intake clogging up the egr components and sensor ports. That’s why I was leaning that way, but I don’t have much experience with these sprinters.
Hello,i have the 2.7 liter and the turbo acctuator is not electric as yours,it is whit vaccum. The procedure for clocking is the same?
Thank you
I'm not sure. We recently gained an '02 here and I have a new turbo arriving this week. Video will be coming soon, installing and adjusting the vacuum actuated OM612 turbo. Stay tuned.
What was the verdict on the vacuum actuator? Same process?
Rod/actuator seemed to be stuck, disconnected as in video. Vane rod moves freely. Actuator rod, instead of going down on start, up when shut off just slaps the left than the right without going up or down at all - so the actuator is working. Could this "clocking" just be wayyyy off to cause this? Have you seen this before?
(Sorry was trying to be succinct hah, hello there wondering if you might be able to answer a question!)
If I am understanding the linkage arm is seized or stiff on the actuator. Rather than going up or down it is giving a big wave from the elbow (image graphic). But when disconnected the arm on the turbo side is moving fine. Just the linkage is bad and maybe it can be lubricated rather than replaced.
How much is too much out? I have the turbo under boost code p0299 at highway speeds. Lots has been done trying to track down this issue. I checked and my actuator is low by about 3/16". The bottom bolt is tough to reach. Is it worth it for this little of an adjustment?
If I understand correctly, when you pull the linkage up it misses alignment by 3/16ths of an inch? That would be more than half of the hole missing the pin... and yeah, that's enough for me to be concerned. Any more than that and I think you would have real trouble getting the turbo resonator lined up to get a proper seal. When you get that bottom bolt loose, you will find it takes a pretty big rotation to make a little difference at the linkage.
@@FloridaVanMan Thanks for your response. I have a jeep with the diesel sprinter engine however, the layout is not quite identical. My turbo seems to be bolted into place in the front and has no room to rotate. I'll post on the jeep site to see if anyone has done this. Thanks for your video.
Hi @floridavanman
I have P0299 code for which is happening in the freeway entrance or in an up-hill freeway where I have to push the turbo. I checked my turbo is spinning nicley, in its own place. Changed the resonator with Dorman one and changed the seal with OEM one. I pretty much sure there is no leak in piping. I have it checked by 2 sprinter specialist in Los Angeles and couldn’t find the reason.
Finally a dealer diagnosed it by saying that the boost pressure positioner linkage is sticking and causing the low boost issue. What is that? My actuator linkage or my turbo arm? Any way to help me please?
Hello Mike,
I have P0299 code, on my 2005 sprinter, checked by two sprinter specialists couldn’t find the reason. Previous owner changed the actuator, and I am going to replace it again, already changed the resonator (with Dorman) and O-ring (OEM) , no piping leak found. Took it to MB dealer and they said that it is caused by sticking boost pressure positioner. What is it? Turbo arm or faulty actuator arm? I checked the turbo arm and it moves easily. Do I have to clock the turbo? Maybe my previously replaced actuator is not working on the turbo range? I which direction to rotate? Please advise, thanks
I have difficulty believing a specialist or MB dealership diagnosed P0299 because, unless I am mistaken that is not in the Sprinter's vocabulary. It is not in my 'complete list of Sprinter codes'. If your trouble is actually under-boost it could be caused by any one of a dozen things. Is this a North American 2005 or UK?
Mine is American Freightliner2500. Please advise, thanks
Update, the actuator was the issue, although it was new. I changed it and it creates up yo 20 psi boost. Immediately there was no P0299 code and no more Limp mode after 100 miles of driving.