T1N Sprinter (2004-2006) Transmission Service + Valve Body Removal
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- čas přidán 31. 07. 2019
- FLUID AMOUNT: If you drained the torque converter and dropped the pan, refill with 8quarts and add more as needed in small amounts. Fluid should be 80 degrees Celsius, 176 degrees Fahrenheit. The temperature should be read while in Drive or Reverse. The level should be checked after cycling through D & R, then placed into P or N. If you did not find a drain for the torque converter start with only 5 quarts.
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Our host Mike shows you how to do a transmission filter and fluid service on your 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006 Mercedes/Freightliner/Dodge T1N Sprinter.
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MB Workshop Dipstick: amzn.to/2XeWwi5
Conductor Plate with transmission filter & more: amzn.to/2yPsw2W
Transmission Fluid: amzn.to/3cfMzoP - Auta a dopravní prostředky
The person with the idea to rotate the camera. 2 thumbs up.
Yea, that looks really good until the fluid starts falling up. lol
Bill, I'm the guy who had to replace it because I broke the captive bolt.
I learned this by chance while waiting in line at Napa holding the conductor plate to buy a replacement.
Started chatting with one of the guys waiting in line at the parts counter and he happened to work for a transmission parts distributor so I asked him what's the difference between the two parts listed for the sprinter on the napa site.
He said simply: The one with the U channel and NO dipstick stopper is for Chrysler transmissions and while it does work on Mercedes is not recommended but for some reason, all auto parts stores make the same mistake and listed as a Mercedes product.
Differentiator part number DBJ. vs DBG.
When I showed him what happened with the captive bolt he also mentions that while it's easy to get out he sells 100's of these per week and I was better off replacing them anyway because they go bad all the time and the more recently produced ones have stronger contacts.
About to do a loooong overdue transmission oil change and this video is a godsend. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Set your torque wrench to 8Nm and tighten in a star pattern, when you get that far and putting things back together.
Congratulations! You are the first CZcams car mechanic to stress the importance of a torque wrench. Most channels are slappin' together high-dollar European sports cars with an impact driver and talking about how shiny things are. Basic mechanics skills are so important. Proper torque being one of them Thank you.
Thank you. With all the aluminum components in a Sprinter, neglecting proper torque becomes an expensive mistake, quickly. It's a lesson I had to learn a few times... Haha.
You are SO right about the importance of torque… I just watched the video and got under my van today to change my filter/fluid… The drain plug is stripped, 1 of the bolts is stripped, and other bolt has the previous owners T27 broken off inside it… now I’m up a creek
@MichaelRodriguez-vb8dn did you solve your issues with an ez out and helicoil?
Just ordered dipstick, oil and filter kit! Thanks for the great content!
I love the silent-movie sound tracks. Thanks for the excellent instructions.
Thanks for watching!
Great how-to video on T1N transmission service.
What a great video thanks so much for all the torque specifications and tools needed
Very well done video, I also went through the comments and your answers are very useful. Subscribed!
Thank you!!! So glad we could help you.
Thank you, I figured it out, the resellers didn't know the difference but your video help me recognize what the difference was and against the recommendations of them telling me I needed the yellow plate, I figured it out, thanks, John
A suggestion I’d like to make is cleaning the transmission cooler when doing this. I rebuilt my transmission and the company that sold me the kit demanded I buy the cleaner or they wouldn’t warranty the transmission.
I was skeptical as I had drained the lines and have changed out transmissions throughout my life without doing this.
When it came time to do it, I almost skipped it because I had to make an adapter to fit the hose on my line. If it wasn’t for having to wait on another part anyway, I would have.
Am I glad I didn’t. I couldn’t believe the amount of crud that was trapped in the cooler that the cleaner brought out. It made a believer out of me. I will always do this from now on with any transmission I service.
thank you very much
What was the name of this cleaner if you can remember?
@@antonioescalante5268 This is what they required that I buy. Whether this brand is better than another, I don't know. I do know it worked very well.
www.lubegard.com/products/kk/
I didn't know there was a transmission oil cooler! Or maybe this was not a Sprinter you rebuilt? No mention of this is made above. But yes, I trust lubegard a lot and have used their other products for years.
@@LEXICOGRAFFER yes, the oil cooler is mounted in front of the radiator and is what the transmission lines are attached to. The transmission pump pushes the transmission fluid out into it to cool it down before cycling to back into the transmission. This is very common on diesels. Personally I’ve never worked on a diesel that didn’t have a cooler.
Loved the video, thank you!
Great video. Exactly what I needed
Thanks for some of the best and most informative T1N videos out there! I bought at 2006 T1N Sprinter with about 176,000 miles on it. The service records say it had the transmission fluid changed by Jiffy Lube at about 172,000 miles, BUT it says they used ""synthetic versatrans CVT plus global ATF." I think I found this ATF online as "Phillips 66 VERSATRANS CVT PLUS FLUID." The information sheet for this ATF says "for continuously variable transmissions, as well as step-type automatic transmissions." I couldn't find any standards, licenses, or approvals for it. My van now has about 179,000 miles on it and started doing the Rumble Strip Noise ("RSN") thing about 500 miles ago (a video on CZcams called "Sprinter rsn" posted by tr4dude is an extreme example; mine isn't nearly this bad and happens only occasionally). There's a fix for RSN that I've seen on CZcams called "2005 T1N Dodge Sprinter Rumble Strip Noise Fix and Transmission Service - Rambling with Phil" posted by Rambling With Phil. If you have time, could you please let me know your opinion about the following?: 1) Do you think the Phillips 66 VERSATRANS® CVT PLUS FLUID is bad for my transmission or is causing my Rumble Strip Noise? 2) What do you think about the "fix" in the video by Rambling With Phil? Is it any good? THANKS!
Rumble Strip Noise (RSN) is a specific valve shudder. A few other things can cause similar valve shudder but won't be corrected by the D.A.R.F. (Dr A's RSN Fix). I don't recommend the DARF unless the shudder is unbearable and I'm not convinced your issue will be helped by drilling that hole to relieve pressure. That fluid is comparable to Mercon V which is definitely not compatible with our vans. I would do a complete fluid change including the torque converter and new filter immediately. Shell 134 of Fusch's Titan 4134.
@@FloridaVanMan Thanks! I did more research and found the following:
The Owner's Manual (page 300) for my 2500 Sprinter indicates that the following fluids are suitable for the 5-speed automatic transmission:
"Shell ATF 3403/M-115
MOPAR® Part No. 05127382AA, or equivalent
Fuchs/Shell ATF 3353"
"MB SHEET:
236.10
236.12"
Per Fuchs' website, Fuchs 3353 meets the "Dexron III" specs. I also found another reference that said "Dexron III and Mercon V are similar types of automatic transmission fluid, with the main difference being that Dexron is the formula developed by General Motors, while Mercon was created by Ford. The specifications of the two formulas are so similar that the two are often considered interchangeable, even if the car manufacturer recommends only using its specific formula."
I asked Phillips whether Versatrans CVT Plus fluid meets Mercon V, Dexron III, or both. They replied that it does NOT meet either of these specs but is recommended as suitable for such use in their "AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS GUIDE," which is actually published by Kendall. Their guide specifically indicates the following:
"Sprinter 2500 2003-09 Mopar P/N 05127382AA, MB 236.10 & MB 236.12 Versatrans CVT Plus ATF = Yes"
This is all terribly confusing. Do you have any thoughts?
I have an additional update: a PCMO (Passenger Car Motor Oil) engineer at Phillips 66 responded as follows: “The [Versatrans] CVT Plus is suitable for use here [in a 2006 Sprinter] as you mentioned. When the CVT Plus was being developed, several no harm tests were conducted to ensure use in step-type transmissions, including those made by dodge (or transmissions sourced from elsewhere used in dodge vehicles). As he [meaning me] mentioned, the viscometrics are very similar between these two [referring to Versatrans CVT Plus and Shell ATF 3403] which is not a coincidence. If there is confusion stemming from the fact that Versatrans [←this refers to regular Versatrans, not Versatrans CVT Plus, which are 2 different products] is not recommended in ATF guide, when the bulk of our materials and research for Versatrans were conducted decades ago, there may not have been enough data to give the thumbs up. CVT Plus being newer and having been through more intensive testing makes us more comfortable with claiming suitable for use on such a large range of transmissions."
Thanks for the videos, I just changed mine and it was much needed at 105,000 mile on 2006 TN1 saved me about $170 if i took it someone and i do not think they would have changed it all.
Awesome! Please consider helping create more money saving videos by joining our Patreon membership. floridavanman.com/donate/
Very helpful! Thanks ForidaVanMan
Amazing thank you
Great video, thanks.
thanks for the detailed video. I think the engine should be running when we fill transmissions.
Great video! I'm attempting this procedure to hopefully correct a tranny limp mode situation.
great video!
Great video! What size socket for the captive bolt in the TCM plug? Answer: 7mm
Simple and informative with good descriptions. Just for clarity, its the T27 for all valve body bolts as well as the oil pan?
Yes Chris, I believe T27/T30 is the only torx bit we used in the video.
Hi FloridaVanMan, thanks for your replies to my questions - and here's something I found out (Crossposted to the View/Navion 2006/2007 Owner's Group):
"After fighting with this once, I took a close look and found that the small indentation that the pointer is indicating is visible at the edge of the transmission case.
If you put a flat blade screwdriver in it and lever it against the trans case it pops right out!
No cursing or persuasion tools needed!
Happy day!"
(Dang! Can't figure out how to post a photo - I guess you'll have to check the Owner's Group.)
Also, I'm 94teenV8r in a different profile. . .
Great vid! Thank you for taking the time and energy to make it.
Would a conductor plate be responsible for pulsing shifting? And are there any symptoms for a worn transmission valve body?
Many thanks to any who respond!
That is a new symptom for me, *pulsing shifting. From what I am imagining.... I wonder if fluid is low or filter is dislodged in the transmission? But these are guesses since I've not seen that symptom.
Wish the wrench sizes needed was mentioned and how that plug receptacle detaches, and how to position the torque converter drain plug. But a good video to get basic orientation, to know what to expect under there.
We couldn't blast it all in one video. lol Actually this was a very early video and we have several transmission videos. Drain plug is often 5mm hex, all other bolts are T-30 and tighten to 8Nm. Turning the engine to find a drain plug requires a friend or creative use of a large ratchet between knees.
Awesome. I almost feel like i could tackle this. Thank You.
I do believe i have an unserviced 2004 with pretty severe Rubble Strip Noise so i believe the agreed next step is to only drain the pan and refill with fresh fluid, to introduce only some new fluid?
There was a rubber weight on the transmission crossmember that has come off.. perhaps that is giving me rubbles while decelerating.
Thanks for the proper dip stick link also!
That will be the first thing ill need!
(all 3 product links say unavailable for Me)
-tim
Hmm, I checked the links. They work for me. Where are you and did you have a dispute with Amazon?
Let's talk about this before you do half the job and need to start over or miss the target completely. Draining the pan, but not the torque converter is kinda' like putting on a clean diaper without wiping off the baby. Half of your fluid will remain in the system if you only drain the trans-pan. If you had a glass of sour milk you wouldn't pour half out and refill the glass with fresh milk. A new conductor plate costs less than fluid, so I replace the plate whenever there is a problem.
Is your issue RSN or other vibration. RSN is valve shudder and you may have something out of balance. What is this rubber piece you mention? Does your vibration stop if you put slight pressure on the accelerator? RSN alleviated by raising RPM even slightly. Shifting into neutral can also help isolate the issue. If vibration continues in N, it's not RSN. You will probably need to stop before Drive engages again properly. Drop a note with a donation and we can discuss at length, privately.
Super helpful video! Curious if all of the bolts, including the last ones on the transmission pan, are torqued to 8 NM ? Also the transmission fluid that you linked is different than the fluid that you used in the video. Is that stuff still recommended for the MB sprinter T1N /'03-'06?
There are many brands available on eBay and Amazon. I don't have a favorite.
Yes, all the bolts in the transmission pan and valve body have the same torque setting.
Very helpful video. I see your link to amazon goes to Shell ATF 134. This isn't what is used in the video. Is this the proper fluid to use? I'm having trouble finding reliable information.
This is what we have used recently and it works very well. Meyhle has not been available for a long time unfortunately. Shell ATF-134 is perfectly okay and specifically meets the specifications listed for Transmission fluid. Even goes one step beyond specifically name dropping the transmission and stating “suitable for Sprinter vans”.
The music has the nostalgic charm of 50s Japan.
Thank you for the very well done step by step demonstration! I own a 2006 Itasca RV and I’m going to attempt this on my own. The only thing I’m unsure about is whether it has a “small” or “ large” torque converter plug. How do I tell the difference between the two? Thank you for a great video!!
Only way to know is take it out and look. The seal does not need to be replaced every time and service is so rare I would not think the average person needs to worry about a replacement seal on the torque converter drain plug. Reuse as needed. I do.
I need to do this to my sprinter. Do you recommend the conductor plate and shell transmission fluid in the description? Figured I’d ask since you used a different fluid in the video.
Yes, when we made this video we used Meyel fluid. That has become impossible to source and we have been using Shell 134 ever since. We tried Fuch's Titan and found it to be thicker, causing valve shudder (RSN) in a van that did not have valve shudder previously.
Thanks for your great explanations and visuals. I am replacing my engine on a 2005 Dodger Sprinter 2500. I see some people removing the transmission and a few leaving the transmission in place. I am trying to leave the transmission in place, but I can't get separation. Any ideas or anything you can help me with? Sure appreciate it.
As much trouble as you are having getting separation, getting alignment will be X10. Before it is too late put a few bolts back in the bell housing and pull them as a set. The weight will balance at injector #4. Four bolts on the drive shaft and four bolts on the transmission mount. Disconnect the wire to the transmission and the linkage to the gear selector. I think the trouble you are having is the engine needs to come up to leave the van, and forward to leave the transmission. The transmission is preventing up, and the van is preventing forward, so nothing comes apart.
Thanks for experienced input. Motor and transmission came out well. Now for the transfer of parts from the old to the new. Your latest video of injector pulls was timely and helpful!
If wanting a good cleaning be the only goal, does removing the conductor plate make sense once the valve body and it has been dropped? The video doesn't show it being removed but does show the other with no dipstick stop removed. Also, let me recommend adding a simple (or complex) padded adjustable support to have in place under the pan and later the valve body to prevent a oops moment that could prove expensive. A sophisticated one would work like an old fashioned piano bench which raises when spun. A simple one would be a length of 4x4 with a couple of cedar shims under a 1/2' thick square of dense foam the top.
I like your idea of a crash cushion to catch my drops! I don't pull the conductor plate off any more unless I am going to replace it. The solenoids all need to come off for this and new conductor plates are not very expensive. If the van is driving great but transmission service is due or the oil is turning brown, I don't always drop the valve body. Only if there are shifting issues, even minor, then I'll drop the valve body and probably replace the conductor plate.
Great video. Thanks for the info. I have a T1N 118'. What do you recommend for RSN? Have you ever performed the DARF mod? Thanks!
I have not done the DARF because I understand there is a little loss on mpg and it doesn't rumble at highway speed on the one I had. I sold that van over a year ago. Not all shudder is RSN so if it hasn't always done this, or if you haven't already... Replace the fluid, filter, connector seal and conductor plate. This solves *most T1N transmission issues.
@@FloridaVanMan Its only a mild annoyance at around 35-40MPH on my van. (nothing at highway speeds) I have changed fluid, filter and connector. I didn't clean the conductor plate like you have shown. Maybe that's the next step... thanks again
@@JonGould5607 Rather than clean the conductor plate, go the extra mile and replace it with new. If the problem persists after that DARF is your only option.
where do you purchase the transmission conductor plate filter gasket for 2003 sprinter
Million Mile Sprinter or amzn.to/2ChBrf2
You will also want 8.5 quarts of this amzn.to/2OwfJ9V
Amazon claims the conductor plate link doesn't fit my 2005 Dodge sprinter but it looks to be the best quality part. Can you confirm they are in fact wrong about this? Thanks for the great video and clear instructions too.
That's strange, Amazon claims fitment for a 2006 Dodge Sprinter which is what I put it in in this video. It is the same part for 2002-2008 Sprinter vans so the one we've linked in the description is the way to go!
The two different dipstick receptors, is that the only difference between the yellow plate and the black plate when replacing the unit, I was told that I needed the yellow plate which has the U-shaped receiver for the dipstick, which I hate, I want the newer style dipstick receiver, any comments, will both work ???
U-shaped receiver on the conductor plate in a Sprinter will leave you unable to check fluid level. The way our dipstick tube routes back and forth it is impossible to register accurately from the top of the tube.
Thanks! The link to conductor plate with trans filter and more on Amazon states it will NOT fit my 2004 DODGE SPRINTER 158 IN. 2500 HC VAN
2.7L 2687CC 165Cu. In. l5 DIESEL DOHC Turbocharged
. Do by chance know what kit would fit? Also, wondering if same Shell ATF 134 Mercedes Benz Transmission Fluid will work on 2004? Finally, have you had the update issue that causes an error in the cluster panel thus needing to be replaced? Very much appreciate your video and looking forward to more especially specific to 2004 2500.
Yes, the Shell 134 fluid is good for the 2004 as well as my 2006 model. Lot less cost in bulk.
That is odd. I see now the description only lists one vehicle as fitting, 2005 Sprinter. The '04-'06 are all the same to my knowledge. All North American models of this age are same OM647 engine and 722.6 transmission. Should fit, but I hesitate to make any promises. Same fluid & filter used on all ours and a few friends' vans. We have done a couple conductor plates and never found there to be a variation in needed parts.
Thanks so much for the detailed explanation. I think I'm ready to take this on for the first time (I hope). When you mention Bill is going to turn over the engine at 7:15, what is he doing to manipulate the torque converter to become more accessible? Thanks in advance!
Sorry I missed all these comments until now. We have a socket and bar on the bolt-head in the center of the harmonic balancer. I think it is a 23mm socket, but I'd need to look tomorrow to be sure. When rotating the engine, always turn forward (clockwise). Turning backwards, I'm told, can cause trouble with slack in the timing chain.
@@FloridaVanMan After you rotate the torque converter to drain do you rotate it counterclockwise to bring the bolt back to the original position it was in?
@@ratchetboo We only rotate the engine to find the drain in the T.C. Once the plug is located we drain it, replace the plug, and carry on. No need to turn it again after it is located at the bottom. If you turn the engine counter-clockwise for any reason, be sure to turn it clockwise to take up any potential slack before trying the starter. I'm not clear how/why a chain would get any slack in it, but I wouldn't want to yank on it with the starter motor if there were any slack. This is something I have read about and not experienced any slack timing chains. But I play it safe here based on others advice.
@@FloridaVanMan cool thanks for the info and helpful tutorial
@@FloridaVanMan how many nm do you tighten the torque converter bolt we used to drain the remaining tranny fluid?
Hey there!! Bill I done everything like u show in the video the oil was black everything was working before change the fluid but now only go to 3 and pass from there any suggestions can help me?
What do you mean only got to 3 and pass from there? Are you saying it shifts only 3 gears? Are you sure it is shifting at all? Some folks mis aligning the linkage shown at 8:55 in the video. Others forget to hook the wire back onto the transmission.
I serviced my transmission recently and still having rumble stripe feel/ haven't done the drill hole method yet. Altho it still feels like the shift timing is off. Not slipping but funky bump shifting. No engine lights on. So strange any idea what else to look at?
Did you replace the conductor plate when servicing the transmission? Discussion is difficult here. Please find me on on Facebook or join our support group for 1-on-1 assistance. patreon.com/Florida_Van_Man?Link&
I follow the link to try to purchase the conductor plate but it says it doesn’t fit my 2004 Dodge sprinter van 2500.
Looks like they changed the part compatibility on that item. I think it is fine, but try this one: amzn.to/3fAHyun
Hi there very clear your explanation thank you l do have dodge sprinter 2007 need transmission service and another aspect to look for im located in Arl Va can you do the service?? Let me know thanks
Well, we can come see you next month. We love to travel and earning a little coin on the road is always welcome. But the travel costs would be heavy. Send me an email Bill@FloridaVanMan.com we will see what we can work out.
@@FloridaVanMan ok let me know the date you be in town next month and we can discuss details thanks again
I’m wonder, you kid of said in passing that you used brake cleaner to clean the plate. Is that specific or will carb cleaner work as well? I have some carb cleaner for the EGR valve I’m cleaning and was wondering if that works
I don't use carb cleaner for anything after a few instances of it eating the surface I was cleaning, or one too close to it. I don't recommend getting brake cleaner on painted surfaces or gaskets if it can be avoided, but it won't eat them like carb cleaner. Your Sprinter does not have a carb so that should leave your garage. It does have brakes. That's all I'm saying.
What are you using to get the TCM plug out? I'm having a lot of trouble reaching that little pin inside it to unscrew. What size socket is that?
I think it should be a Torx 30, but we find it is often messed-up and can be pulled with a hex-key (aka Allen wrench). Yours would not be the first plug that just won't come out. In that case get a lot of cardboard to protect the driveway and catch all the oil you can when you drop the oil pan. Once the pan is off you can get at the top and turn it out, and replace it.
There is a small hex bolt deep inside the 13-pin socket. Something around 8mm? The bolt threads into a brass insert molded into the plastic conductor plate, so it’s ridiculously easy to over tighten and break, allowing the bolt to spin (and the socket to back out...) Then you need to secure the plug with baling wire or get a new conductor plate...
Torque this bolt to JUST past snug.
The pan drain takes a 5mm or 6mm Allen (hex). Clean the hole first to get full engagement or you’ll round it out. Like the rear diff, if the drain has never been removed, it may be seized and refuse to budge.
-dave
It's a 7mm and it's about 1-2 inches deep, Tighten just over finger tight... Also, there are (2) (TWO) O-RINGS on the Connector, (LOOK at the New One) he only shows (1) One that he removes - There is another one INSIDE that has to come out before you put the new one on....Hey loving's the RSN for 21 years...
Hello! We recently purchased a 2006 Dodge Sprinter and these videos are really helping us get to know our vehicle; thank you! We plan on doing a transmission service however, we aren't sure if we should replace the conductor plate as well. What mileage would you suggest these be replaced at? Thank you!
That is not a mileage concern. If the van is driving correctly and sifting as it should, I would not replace the conductor plate. Clean everything best you can while it is apart, new fluid and seals on the electrical connector (or new connector).
Hey! I just bought a 2005 t1n and in the past couple days it’s started getting stuck in a certain gear. I would turn the van off and start up again, it would occasionally work but as of today it’s completely stuck in 2nd while driving. I removed the driver seat and the TCM had oil on the plugs. After cleaning that with brake cleaner it still had the problem of being in second. Any suggestions would be much appreciated!
I’m having a similar problem. Sometimes everything is normal then it’ll stick in 2nd or sometimes 3rd (and won’t allow manual tap shift) until I turn it off and restart it. Sometimes goes a few miles with normal shifting before it sticks. Cleaned contacts on TCM under seat - No luck. Just did trans oil change and replaced the TCM connector plug - Still no luck. Any suggestions?
Is there not a pattern for tightening the bolts, like with an engine head?
We should tighten them in a criss-cross pattern, but not so critical as engine head, manifold bolts or even wheel lugs. The pan is fairly flexible but the torque spec is light at 8Nm. Snugging them all then coming back to tighten each is recommended. I usually start with the middle two bolts.
will the link for the conductor plate fit a 2007 mercedes sprinter van?
Yes, the transmission remained the same past 2007, NAG1 722.6.
Can a transmission flush prior to service be a good idea? One Sprinter specialist I spoke with said it can cause problems as much as solve them. Any opinion on this?
I never heard or read of any one doing transmission flush on a Sprinter. It seems unnecessary with no potential for any gain.
I never knew the conductor plate had a plastic molded ring that's stopping the dipstick from bottoming out. What's with that U-shape version were the dipstick goes straight past it? Aftermarket conductor plate?
The NAG1 transmission with that conductor plate is used in other Mercedes vehicles and some Jeeps that have a more traditional transmission dipstick that comes with the car.
@@FloridaVanMan I see thanks for clearing that up
So when you say level 2 persuasion tool, what do you mean. I can not seem to get the tcm plug receiver out.
Also the internal torque bits are t30, not t27
Bigger hammer! Level two is my joke meaning "the little one didn't work" and a persuasion tool is just a hammer.
Correct. My tools were not in the proper places and I didn't notice it was a bigger bit where the 30 should have been.
I just bought a 2004 sprinter and now I’m experiencing the drone sound and a vibration when I’m driving. Do you know what it could be?
A short video/audio clip might help identify the noise. You can open a 1-on-1 conversation with us by adding a note to a small donation. All donations help keep the videos coming.
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I clocked the affiliate link for the conductor plate kit and it says it's only for 2004 and newer... Should fit the 02 and 03 should it not? That link has a great price. I'd love to buy but only if it will work obviously.
It will fit. The NAG1 transmission remained the same and was continued into the NCV3 models. The eBays seller just did not discover all the other vehicles that the part fits, and listed it for only the most popular ('04-'06 T1N).
@@FloridaVanMan as I thought, just had to be sure. Thank you kindly
Florida van man. My dipstick goes all the way in.. is the only option to replace the conductor plate?!?
Might try a second dipstick or try your dipstick in any other Sprinter. I found one dipstick with the stopper nubs just a bit too small or worn-down. It would pass through the stopper funnel. If two dipsticks go too deep I think that is confirmation the conductor plate is wrong.
hello quick question.
my transmission sometimes drags on shifting gears randomly but not often. probably because i'm towing my magnum behind my 30' sprinter van with the 3.0 Diesel. i ordered a deeper pan just waiting for it to arrive. currently on a road trip from portland oregon and i'm in dallas texas now. do you think i should get a new valve body for my trans like you did?
Fresh filter and fluid should resolve the issue. Don’t forget the torque converter. In the event it doesn’t, I would look at the valve body/conductor plate.
Florida Van Man 👍🏽
2005 Sprinter 3500 200k miles. Don’t know maintenance history. shutters when under a load usually when pulling a trailer. Doesn’t do it 100% of the time but more like if you stop at a stop sign then start off up a hill. The tach seems to increase in rpm when it shutters but it doesn’t seem like a “slip” . If I keep the rpm’s up it’s less of an issue. Any suggestions, thanks in advance
Those symptoms don't feel familiar to me. I'd need more data to make an educated guess. Sorry.
I have a 2005 TN1, but the link for the kit says is not compatible with it. Please advise
Amazon is often incorrect about fitment. If you are using a link I posted, it fits.
so what is cause of dipstick bottoming out? incorrect conductor plate installed? my 2002 freight liner badges sprinter bottoms out the transmission dipstick as well and wondering if i should replace conductor plate or if it matters at all
Yup...this transmission is shared with other Mercedes and Chrysler cars. The cars have a different style transmission dipstick that’s either always present or straight up in a different location. We showed this in the video. The difference is in the recepticle
How to check transmission fluid level with U shape conductor?
If it is slipping.
Downshifting problems. My 2005 T1 in Sprinter, doesn’t want to downshift when I flick the lever. I have to flick it 3, 4 or five times to get it to finally downshift to fourth or third etc.. I recently changed the transmission fluid and that made no difference. What are your thoughts?
Try holding the shifter a half second, not just a flick. I think I saw you on FB and I reply faster there.
Great video. I put everything back together, and now have no gears. Goes nowhere. Where do I look?
Oh No! How many liters or quarts of fluid did you put in?
Also you may have to clear the EGS (transmission) codes before it'll move. Especially if it threw transmission codes in the first place.
A little late to the party, but be certain to get the valve pin into the groove in the comb wheel when you mount the valve body.
-dave
Hello. Question.. My sprinter box truck vibrates a lot at around 1800 and 200p rpm. Once i apply power it works fine. Its becoming annoying.. Can't figure out what the.problem is..if you help me figure out the problem... I'll gladly make a donation to your channel.. Thanks..
That could be transmission, drive shaft, or hopefully not an engine vibration. Could be a simple as a broken motor mount or transmission mount, so that would be my first place to look. Put a thick board on a jack, and jack up the transmission a little bit to see if the mount starts to stretch and pull, or does it separate easily. Then do the same for the engine, looking at the two engine mounts. Our engine basics video shows the engine mount locations. They are silver wings on my painted engine. Next check would be trying to wiggle the drive shaft while laying under the van. looking for play in the universal joints at each end. Lastly, I'd have you send a video of the problem, taken from the passengers seat because I don't want to encourage driving and filming at the same time, and a short video of the engine at idle, so I can hear it under the hood.
The link says it’s not compatible with my dodge 04 2500 sprinter. I think my connector is leaking
I don't know which link you are referring. Amazon is often wrong about vehicle fitment. If I linked it, it fit! But..... beware of my links that are old. Amz sellers change the product without changing the listing. The alternator I liked for years now ships with a pulley that does not align on our vans. We will be updating our links soon at floridavanman.com/links
Hi. What brand torque wrench do you have? Mine only goes down to 13.6 N/M
We've been through a few!!! One of our videos shows a bent one we absolutely ruined! Since then we bought a Craftsman for regular torquing. We've had a small one measuring inch/pounds for years and we have a giant one just for these harmonic balancer replacements. I think it was about $300 and is 42 inches long. I can get you a link if interested, but I'll need to look at the wrench I have. It is not a famous or familiar brand.
How'd you guys paint your bumpers? They look good.
Krylon plastic paint in spray cans works very well for us.
black wood stain works the best
Would this fluid work on 2005 Freightliner sprinter 2.7 as well ? I heard Shell ATF 134 can only be used on Sprinter with V6 engine
Yes, it is MB approved for all North American Sprinters 2002-2007 and beyond, to what year I don't know. The NAG1 transmission is the same in all of them thru 2007 at least. Over the pond they have manual transmissions and other auto-gearbox options that I am not sure what fluid is needed.
@@FloridaVanMan Thanks !
Seems like you call two different things the plug: the one that's attached to the wiring harness...and...the cylindrical thing you popped out that the first fits into. How about employing a more technical term for those who might need to replace one?
Yes, if I had better terms, perhaps. Like a plug on an appliance cord and the plug in a wall, one goes into the other, but we call them both plugs. The cylindrical part with two O-rings is often called the connector, but that also can refer to the plastic end holding dangling wires. Which way is right and wrong will be different regionally.
Great video! Is the process same with manual and automatic transmission?
Unfortunately I cannot say. We didn't get any manual transmission Sprinters here in the states. Maybe one day I'll be able to import one.
Here's the info for manual.
Manual transmission oil (1.8 liters)
MB 235.10
MB A00 1 989 26 03 10
Here is how to: sprinter-source.com/forums/index.php?threads/7205/
Can I bring my T1N to you guys for transmission service? I’m in Orlando.
Yes, send me an email Bill at FloridaVanMan dot com.
Hello, your video was very helpful, yesterday I did change my transmission driver plate, after finished I noticed some leaking through the connector, first question; is the inside of the connector fill out with oil transmission, that is normal? Second question; because the connector was leaking through the pins looks like I over torque and damage the internal little screw, will I need replaced again the connector plate? or it is possible to wait until next oil change without risk of malfunctions (screw issue). Thanks a lot for your videos and advice.
The screw is not all that important. The connectors are usually wet inside but if the O-rings on that connector are not up to the task fluid will wick to the TCM under the driver seat. We have a video about that. Search our channel for "Should this be wet".
@@FloridaVanMan Hello, thanks for your fast answer, I saw the video, my pin connector still oil leaking, the connector and the o rings was new one, you recommend found a new o rings little bigger, is possible to remove the pin connector avoiding drain oil in the oil pan? I appreciate a lot your advice.
@@karenm6914 We can pull the wire-side for connector out without loosing fluid. It is often wet in there. Removing the next part, the connector in the transmission, will drain some fluid unless you are parked on a good hill. if the seal is not good I would replace the connector. Even knowing the bolt hole in the conductor plate is stripped, I would still be confident with a new plug and the O-rings it comes with. When removing the old plug be sure to get all the O-rings out of the transmission then press a new connector with rings Firmly into the hole. May need some levers to really push that connector fully into the transmission.
floridavanman.com/donate/
@@FloridaVanMan Thanks a lot, tomorrow I will change the O rings with a new ones., Really I appreciate your time and effort to explain to me the best way to fix the problem.
Where in Florida are you guys located?
Between Daytona and Orlando.
Being up on ramps does mess with the build level???
Yes, we always put the ramps on the downhill end of the driveway and only preliminary cold-fluid checks are done on ramps. We test drive to achieve 80 degree transmission fluid temp and park on level street for final fluid checks.
Any tips on reattaching the Computer Plug?
I felt around and got it to where it slides in to place, but I cannot get that center bolt to catch for the life of me. It just spins and spins. I’ve been trying for a lot longer than a I care to admit.
Either the connector is not pushed in deep enough or the conductor plate is stripped where the screw screws-in. Be sure both O-rings came out with the old connector and if needed, force the plug into place with a board/lever.
Thanks I’ll check and make sure it didn’t get stripped. When you say a board to force the plug in, I take it that means it might take a good amount of force to get this all the way in? Like should I not be able to see the O-Rings anymore?
@@michaelrodriguez2741 Oh, definitely should not see O-rings when connector is fully inserted. It helps me to line-up by turning the 'lock' down/unlocked then align it where I can just get a finger behind it to close/lock it. That should have it lined-up and ready to push on. Some aftermarket plugs fit better than others and I have had at least one that made me get a 2x4 and lever against a solid brace on the van. We should NOT need to do this so be sure everything else is lined-up, oily, and clean before using force. Using the center bolt to "pull the connector in" never works and only strips the hole. But I often push and wiggle it in as far as I can, snug the bolt then push and wiggle some more. Repeat as needed until it won't wiggle.
If you can still pull your connector out, look at the end of the screw and be sure it doesn't have a nut stuck on it. if it does you will need to remove the nut and say a little prayer.
would this be similar to a 2007?
I believe so. While most of the van changed between model years 2006-2007, body, engine, breaks, etc. the NAG1, or 722.6 transmission was continued.
Thanks! Does the captive screw socket have to come out to drop the valve body? I got the captive screw loose, but the cup won't budge. What is a Level Two persuasion tool?
Yes! The round connector is screwed to the conductor plate. Trying to lower the valve body while connector is still in place will ruin the conductor plate and prevent removal.
Level two just means a bigger hammer. In another video I used a level 12 persuasion tool on an EGR removal. (**it got real*).
@@FloridaVanMan thank you for the reply - I wasn't able to remove the socket cup with the captive screw, so I put it back together (only to find that a PO has badly buggered the pan threads into the case. Dammit!
Where did you decide to apply hammer-ness on the socket cup?
I have another question related to your video (for which I thank you very much) - I found it impossible to bump the starter to get the torque converter drain plug to line up with the cut-out: is it OK to turn the crankshaft with a wrench on the pulley nut? I haven't confirmed there is a nut on the front of the crankshaft (but there are on my other cars) but I thought you'd be the right guy to ask.
Thanks again,
Tim.
I love the detail of your filter change, but when I only put 5 quarts in it was still low after checking on the Internet, it actually took 8 quarts because you drain the torque converter any reason why you didn’t mention that
It has been a long time since I've watched that video and I didn't realize it was missing the capacity. 4.5-5 quarts refills the transmission if we don't drain the torque converter. Some vans don't have a drain for it. When we drink the torque converter is takes a little over 8 quarts to fill up.
my 2006 sprinter would not change gears, it starts normally from parking to D, drives a bit and starts slipping just rolling like it is on N, after stopping ,resetting the transmission it goes again for a minute starts to slip again, would appreciate any advice. It is 2006 , transmission fluid is full, never had any transmission problems before. Thank you
That sounds similar to what we found in a van we helped get going last month. At a campground, we replaced the conductor plate, filter and fluid. Of course, we also cleaned the valve body as best we could in the situation and interrogated the computer with DAS. czcams.com/video/JmfvqV1ZbOU/video.html
@@FloridaVanMan Thanks a lot
The magnet stays in? Is it factory standard or you had that awesome idea?😮
That magnet is standard in most transmissions, to collect magnetic clutch fibers.
Awesome video! Would you by chance know the total length of the dipstick you used? I bought one identical to yours but I’m worried I’m not getting accurate readings after doing my transmission fluid change. I want to make sure I have the same one because mine sticks out about 6 inches of the fluid fill tube.
If you can send me a message in daytime I can check it but length of the stick isn't normally relevant. The stopper is a wide point at the top of the black tip on your dipstick. if you aren't reading any fluid there may be a piece of dipstick broken off inside the tube. If you can push farther, it wasn't fully inserted.
Thanks for the response! Let me know if you were able to get a total length of the dipstick you used in this video. I am able to to put the dipstick all the way in with no problem with about 6 inches sticking out. I can however push it beyond that point till the entire dipstick is in the fill tube. I definitely feel it come to a descent stop with about 6 inches sticking out.
@@garettsimon3800 Measured 4 of them. Longest is 48 inches, shortest just 46.5 inches.
@@garettsimon3800 I thought I replied a few days ago, sorry. The dipsticks I have vary between 47inches to 48.25 inches.
If there were 3 vans for sale all the same year and wheelbase etc. would it be better to choose dodge, freight or merc? between 03-06, which diesel is the one to have and which one is the one to stay away from?
which engine did not have injector seal issues?
@@toobglued Merc Dodge & Fr8_R are all the same van made in Dusseldorf Germany until '07 when they went to S.C. and changed everything. The '02-'06 have the same design, head, and injector concerns, with some major accessory differences. '02-'03 have issues with the mechanical fuel pumps, vacuum activated turbo and a big intake manifold that gets in the way of simple engine maintenance. We are big fans of the '04-'06 with electric fuel pumps and electric actuated turbo with smaller intake manifold and better EGR. We prefer to dress them all as Mercedes despite whatever is on the title. Only the plastic logos are different from one brand to the next.
The injector seal issues aren't as bad as some people think. If you look under the hood occasionally, and move some plastic covers to see the working bits, you will catch trouble before it gets ugly. If it gets ugly, a can of oven cleaner and $8 in parts will fix the common injector seal issue called Black Death. I call it Black Inconvenience.
@@FloridaVanMan wow thanks !!
@@FloridaVanMan And the post 2006 is not desired? There is a 2008 dually that is very clean for sale with reasonable miles I was considering. Thoughts on the later models 07-08? Thanks in advance :)
@@toobglued Sorry for the late response. Post 2006 the diesel option was a V6 with DPF and later DEF requirements. These emissions systems are notorious for expensive repairs down the line and I would not recommend them for the faint of heart or DIY mechanic.
do you recommend doing a fluid change / service on a high mileage T1N. I purchased the van at 200K miles and have no history of the prior transmission service. The fluid looks somewhat contaminated. Some question doing the service for high mileage ...
I do. My book says service it once at 80,000 then never again. I had trouble somewhere over 300,000 and thought I cooked it. A full service with filter and cleaning restored nearly 100% and I have driven another 200,000 miles since then without issue.
@@FloridaVanMan thanks a lo for the reply. Would you do it as preventative maintenance as well ? There is no apparent issue except a leak in the connector seal (located next to the trans. Forgot what it’s called).
I have a sprinter 2006 with both manual and automatic transmission. I can't find the dipstick at the point you showed it
Is there any other spot I can search for it?
What country is your was your van originally sold in?
@@FloridaVanMan It was imported from spain
I would love to contact you. Flew down from ohio and purchased a2006 view winnebago. Battery was dead charged it. Drove and it won’t get out of first gear. Need your help please
Where in Florida are you? Reach me through our Patreon page. Join here: floridavanman.com/donate/
You are undoubtedly in second gear, transmission limp mode. The code may not clear without a compatible code reader and will return if problem is not solved.
Great job! Silent movie soundtrack is pretty funny too.
My wife and I watched this in our hotel room the day after a $1500 tow for our 2005 Sprinter 3500/Winnebago View that has 87,000 miles. Transmission "failed to proceed" on a lonely highway in south Louisiana. No warning and no problems that I could feel ahead of time. It just stopped moving forward and would not resume. OBD code P0730 "incorrect gear. ratio" It would only rev to 1500 rpm if put into Drive or Reverse,. After cycling ignition it sometimes would move a few feet before stopping again. Trans was fully serviced (torque converter and pan) by Sprinter professionals at 27k and 77k.
II called a dozen shops but many were busy or not interested so I wound up having it towed to Dodge dealer hoping at least they could scan it properly. They have one full-time transmission tech.
Wondering what you'd recommend saying to help a non-Sprinter tech diagnose the problem? They should look at it on Monday.
Some dealerships are great! Others won't hesitate to tell you that you need a new transmission when all you might need is a few ounces of fluid. Incorrect gear ratio can come up from low transmission fluid level or more serious problems. This is common since our vans don't have a transmission dipstick. Only some garages have this Mercedes-Daimler specific tool so all others give a best guess and say "OK"! Another common problem is the Transmission fluid wicking up the wires to the control module under the seat. This can be cleaned with brake cleaner and given a few minutes to dry before reconnecting the battery. If they try to tell you it needs a new transmission, they might be right. But get a second opinion if you can. I have been told this symptom of resting a few minutes then feeling OK for a mile or less is a very bad sign. I don't know of any shops in Louisiana but any shop can put in a Jasper remanufactured transmission. You might be looking at $3500 for the transmission shipped and another $1500 to put it in with fluid and shop supplies included.
@@FloridaVanMan Many thanks Mr. Van Man. Amazing to get your help so quick. I'll check for TCM fluid contamination now.
Got some news today. Dodge service writer says their transmission tech reports "3rd gear is burnt" and trans needs to be replaced. It's reading Code P0733. As far as I can tell, that 's an OBD II generic code. And it has several possible causes from what I see online. It doesn't necessarily mean trans has to be replaced.
I expected they'd have an advanced scanner that would read Sprinter codes and provide more detail about the situation. How come I'm getting an OBD generic code only I wonder?
They haven't linspected fluid/filter condition or opened up the trans. How can they know for sure that 3rd gear has "burnt"? Does the fact that I just lost power on the highway all of sudden, and never got it back, confirm the code?
I want to have a look at the fluid/filter. They want to charge $350 for that and say I'd be wasting my money.
I don't exactly doubt the diagnosis but they're not backing it up enough for me to trust it.
So how does this sound?
@@richardgenz7406 Sounds like you got the afore mentioned dealership that won't hesitate to guess & rob you blind while replacing expensive parts. I am not a trained professional and I am sometimes wrong... but P0733 tells me they have their DBRiii setup for NCV3 Sprinters (906) and you have a T1N Sprinter (901.6;902.6;903.6...). Without the KWP protocols they might as well be using a magic 8-ball.
The accusal of "3rd gear" is also curious. We don't have gears to burn up, we have clutches and valves. 3rd gear doesn't use the same clutches or valves as you would have been using at highway speed in 5th gear. Clutch K3 would be logical to have burned, but a service writer better understand the difference between a clutch and a gear!
On the other hand, I found only more confirmation that this symptom is always* terminal, requiring rebuild, assuming you have an appropriate fluid level in the transmission. I would not be comfortable with the shop if they are not willing to dip the transmission in my presence, showing me the oil is measurable (the stick reaches it) and the fluid is brown before agreeing to replacement. If the fluid is too low to be sampled on the dip stick it should be filled and driving attempted, engine running in gear for no less that 90 seconds. If fluid is extremely low and the torque converter is drained of fluid the van will not move until it refills. This may take a minute in gear when the overall level is too low. It may never happen when fluid is extremely low. If the fluid is still very pink and you have not had it recently serviced, nothing inside is burned.
In short, they may be right and you might need a new transmission. But if they have not verified you have at least minimal fluid and have not inspected the filter, get a second opinion. Fluid does not need to be full, just measurable, reached by the dipstick's tip.
@@richardgenz7406 The reason they want to charge $350 for 15 a minute inspection is because they want to scare you away from a minor repair after they guessed big-problem. $350 is RIDICULOUS for inspecting transmission prior to removing it. That is the price for a new filter and 6 liters of fluid, installed with a trans service. Why would they charge a full service when not adding a new filter or fluid? To scare you away from the inspection that might prove the assumption was wrong.
So I'm lost with the torque converter...you drained it and then we never saw it again. Does it consume the same transmission fluid as the rest of the transmission? Does it require any more maintenance than the fluid draining?
The only maintenance you can do to the torque converter is draining the fluid. It's the same transmission fluid as the rest of the transmission. When you drain the torque converter, you will have to put more transmission fluid in than if you just drain the pan & replace the filter. The extra fluid that it needs just goes into the pan and is fed into it once the engine is running.
Do you need a new washer when replacing torque converter drain plug?
Maybe I missed it but what was causing the dipstick to bend and not give correct fluid level before the service?
Improper receiving end on the conductor plate, which can be see at 8:05
Thanks for the really good video. I’ve got a 2006 Dodge Sprinter 2500 and when I trued to check the transmission fluid level the full length of dipstick went into the tube. I’m assuming from your video that the “stop” is broken. If so, where can I buy a new “stop?” I Called the Mercedes dealer in town and the Sprinter mechanic said there was no stop. Said he just puts his thumb on the bottom of the red handle at the end of the dipstick and that’s his stop.
@@pinepaul9920 Oh MY!!! I would love to record a shop technician saying that! The difference between needing fluid and too much is about a quarter of an inch so he better have his thumb laboratory calibrated often! LOL~ Many Sprinters have this problem, with the stick-stop missing. I think it usually comes from a used or remanufactured transmission, because the NAG1 trans is used in many vehicles. Most of them have a traditional dip stick that registers from the top of the tube and stays with the vehicle. Our fill tubes do not fit uniformly into the transmissions, so this is not a reliable way to check levels on Sprinters. I suspect one reason the fill tube is not uniform is because the transmissions were removed and placed in the cargo area for shipping (light trucks only, not passenger vans). They did this to avoid the Chicken-Tax on light truck imports to North America.
Fun Facts: The Chicken Tax is a 25 percent tariff on light trucks (and originally on potato starch, dextrin, and brandy) imposed in 1964 by the United States under President Lyndon B. Johnson in response to tariffs placed by France and West Germany on importation of U.S. They are still jumping through unnecessary hoops today to avoid this unusual tax.
@@FloridaVanMan Thanks! Its been some time but to follow up. What do you think caused that? Could it have been caused from the dip stick being stuck in too far? The reason I ask is I tried checking the level of mine and the dip stick got stuck and while I was able to get it out it was unsettling how much pulling force was required. I read on some threads that the cheaper dip sticks are not built as robust as the OEM and between that and improper technique can cause it to get stuck or break off. I was thinking that is what caused the part you said was messing up? Before I try to check again I will double check the length of the stick v.s. what the distance is between the top of the fill tube til where it hits the pan. Thanks for this video. There are not many on the 2.7 5cly 2002-2006. Mine is an RV.
@@ibcrypto6139 If the transmission was replaced or wrong conductor plate installed at service, the dipstick stopper may be missing. Other cars that used the same transmission didn't use the same stick and stopper. When that stopper is missing your stick can bend over and go way too deep. Pulling it back out past that unnatural bend is difficult and can break off even the best quality stick.
You only put 5 quarts of transmission fluid in even though you drained the torque converter. Your other video with the girl shows that you put in 8 to 9 quarts. Please explain.
I haven't watched this video in a few years, but we should have added 5 bottles then started the van before adding 3 more. I usually need a few ounces of fluid from a 9th bottle to get the level I want at operating temp.
what torque wrench is that?
It a cheap torque wrench I bought on eBay many years ago. The logo on the handle fell off some time ago too so I can't tell you a brand. It measures in Inch/pounds rather than foot/pounds.
@@FloridaVanMan Okay, thank you. Great content, looking forward to watching more Sprinter videos!
How much fluid did it take?
We put in 8.5 quarts the drive a bit and check level. Add up to another quart if needed.
How much fluid did you have to add after this procedure ?
Luckily, the '08 does not have DEF, only DPF. Particulate filter but no fluid until I think 2010.
Tranny fluid that is
@@ExclusiveK9Alberta Trans fluid after a full service including the torque converter usually takes 9 liters, +/- half a liter. Sorry for the miscommunication. YT showed me this comment on a different video this morning, the manual filter regen video.
Thanks
How much fluid does it take
If the torque converter was drained, 8 quarts then drive to warm and measure with dipstick. Due to options, different vans will need closer to 9 quarts.
Did you plug the torque converter? hehe
Problem with shifting from 2nd to 3rd..revs an then hits 3rd..whats the fix ??
Its a 2006
Sounds like 'shift-flare' and you can adapt by letting off the throttle just a bit at that point, letting the next gear grab before continuing to accelerate. The only fix is a Transmission rebuild. It may ride a long time without getting worse but if you need to fix it tell these folks I sent ya' www.silverstartransmission.com/
I've read that Metal bits foul the shifting solenoid Magnets and Cause Shift Flare, some folks claim that rebuilt or Cleaned Valve bodys will fix that,,, I've got it too and will post how it works for me.. Loving the RSN for 21 years..
@@gregmorse9862 yes please let me know if it helps..
SOS...Florida Van Man or anyone who may know: I am in Florida with a 2017 MB Sprinter that needs a transmission conductor plate replaced. Would you happen to know an honest, competent, dependable shop or individual that could reliably and reasonably perform this work? Thank you!
🙏
There are a few shops in Florida that I can suggest and one that I will warn you about. Stay far away for Sprinter Van City in Fort Pierce. I can replace the conductor plate and service transmission if you are near Daytona-Orlando. We can schedule for about August 7th =/-.
@@FloridaVanMan Thank you so much!!! Well, I was hoping you might know of somewhere a little closer to the Lake Okeechobee Area. I will keep looking to see if I find anywhere closer and let you know! Thanks again! Cheers!
Help me, Florida Van Man!! You're my only hope!!
I have an '06 t1n that went into limp home mode yesterday (along with my '86 4Runner having it's clutch go out yesterday as well)... I had stopped to talk to a neighbor, with the van in drive and my foot on the brake, for about 10 minutes... When I pressed the gas pedal to go, i got nothing. From a dead stop, I can't rev over 1.5k rpm's, and going up slight hills I have no power at all... It will not go out of first gear and pull. I was leaving to go to town, and was able to drive the roughly 1.5 miles back this way...
Would you say it feels like the pedal gets no response, or more like the van is trying to drag a ton of weight? If it feels like weight, when was the transmission last serviced?
@@FloridaVanMan definitely no response from the pedal!! After I shut off and reset the LHM, when I start it again after a few minutes, I can throw it into drive and feel the transmission engage. During LHM, it doesn't feel like it engages, no matter how much I put it in park and then back into gear. When it does engage, after 1.5k rpm, it almost feels like driving in snow or mud when the tires spin, but you're still inching forward a bit, but with no real power or traction... If I go up even a slight incline, I lose all steam and have to reset LHM.
Clear as mud?
@@crouton976 This could be a transmission code that needs to be cleared. Do you have a code reader that is good for Sprinters? I like this one amzn.to/3IKSgwt Read all codes and note them or screenshot. See what codes come back when you try to drive. We have a video for getting the reader setup right for T1N Sprinters. Pay special attention to the CDI codes and Transmission Control codes. Have you checked the transmission fluid level? You need this Trans Dipstick: amzn.to/352iCY1 . You won't be able to warm the trans fluid if you can't drive it, sou see the bottom set of lines as your makers for low & high. Check with engine running in Park, after cycling through R & D.
floridavanman.com/donate/
@@FloridaVanMan yup, I've got the Autel reader, based on another of your videos. 🤘🤘
Unfortunately, I accidentally hit the quick clear button and erased all the codes. 😅 It was throwing something for the electronic transmission control, and the regular transmission control. Also, I noticed an exhaust smell the other day, and hadn't had time to investigate... I suspect I've got a bad injector seal or two... I'm seeing what might be black death peeking out from under the cover... 😬😬😬
I'll definitely buy the dipstick and check my trans fluid... Hopefully that's all it is...
And hey, if you ever wanna make a trip about 1.5 hours from San Diego, I've got an '06 3500, 158" WB, with double sliders (which I understand to be rare in North America) that wants to meet you... you could get plenty of footage for a year's worth of content!! 🤣
Ware in FL are you located?
Between the beach and the mouse, Daytona to left of us, Mickey to our right, here we are, stuck in the middle again.
I’m in Jupiter FL ... and I need to get this done ... I’m new here and I don’t know any good sprinter shops or Mechanics
@@reefgameaquatics9285 Sadly, I don't know any good shops in the area either. I can tell you a few horror stories of some you definitely want to avoid. That is why I have become my own Sprinter mechanic gradually over the 14 years of owning my daily driver. With half a million miles I must disclose it is not the original engine, but a fine automobile none-the-less. Mike and I are not mechanics by trade, but we have a flat driveway, all the needed tools, and willing to lend a hand if you want to come this way. Depending on your mobility and budget, we could also come to you. Is there an issue/symptoms with the van or are you just looking at good maintenance practices?
@@reefgameaquatics9285 I so agree with you Reef, I didn't find good mechanics around Jupiter area that know how to work on T1N sprinter. Now I have transmission problems. I wish we could get in touch with Florida Van Man. To get some work done and learn more.
Igy Valy he has told me to come to them but it’s a 3hr + ride... maybe we can talk to him and have him come down for both of us
You show to just pull off the filler tube cap. Mine doesn't just pull off.
They are tight if the red tab is still in there, but it will come off with a sharp tug.
The best part.... OOOPS
Where is the actual dipstick
The transmission dipstick is a "tool" that is not included with the van purchase. We have a link for the proper one at floridavanman.com/links/
Video doesn’t help at all
I assume you are being sarcastic and funny. Three and a half years of viewer comments disagree with you.
@@FloridaVanManI agree with him. I watched the whole video and you didn't show up to my house to do the work for me. Not helpful