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WLToys 12428 ... Fail!
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- čas přidán 16. 04. 2020
- This is probably my most embarrassing video and upgrade-attempt ever ... but never too proud of showing my failures and hard times as it might give other's an idea of what to expect from the WLToys 12428 1/12 4WD RC Car Rock Racer. So here's a little RC story about a breakage, upgrades, the WLToys 12428, some tiny grub screws and some super-glue-thread-lock. I've never had to give up on a thread-locked grub screw before ... but these simply got the best of me.
More info below!
This WLToys 12428 was kindly provided by Tomtop, free for review and tests. You can check it out and buy it here: bit.ly/2nw9gl4
The upgraded drive shafts shown in the video I bought here:
Silver: www.banggood.com/1PC-Steel-Me...
Black (might be too long): www.banggood.com/Feiyue-FY-01...
The links where provided by TomTop and Banggood. I receive no money/pay/commission.
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The plan was to spend about 30 minutes on this easy little upgrade/repair. And then plenty of afternoon run time. But four tiny grub screws ended up costing me several broken tools and my entire afternoon. These new brands are renowned for using much too strong and much-too-much thread lock. Or rather a type of glue that just binds the screws to the metal. These ones just wouldn't move. Not even after using excessive force, a heat gun and drills. I've never had to give up on a thread locked grub screw before.
It's probably an easy job for the right person with the right tools. But so far, for the last six-seven years, I have been able to remove all binding screws with the tools I have. This one though, probably requires some cutting tools or metal drills. I'm not sure I am gonna buy new tools just because of the WLToys 12428 ... so maybe you have a tip for me and everybody else that just have the basic tools?
Here is the first video, with the first run, where all was still good: • WLToys 12428 4x4 1/12 ...
Then I decided to jump it a little (which I regret) but soon I had to switch to a Tamiya Grasshopper: • Breaking the 'World's ...
In this video I am glad I had the Arrma Typhon 6S BLX v4 ready to go.
WLToys 12428 Specifications (from Tomtop):
Brand: WLToys
Model: 12428
Scale: 1/12
Motor: 540 brushed motor
Transmission ratio: 1:9.12
Remote control frequency: 2.4G
Remote control distance: ≥ 100m
Top speed: 50km/h
Radio battery: 4 * AA battery (not included)
RC car battery: 7.4V 1500mAh lithium battery
Charging time: About 3h
Use time: 10min
Servo: 25g servo
Car shell material: PVC
Ground clearance: 40mm
Wheelbase: 253mm
Wheel diameter: 93mm
Wheel width: 32mm
Car size: 380(L) * 225(W) * 180(H)mm
Weight: 1989g
-----------------------------------------------
#NordicRCVisions Statement:
This video features homemade footage of my own #RcCar unit, the #WLToys #WLToys12428, send to me personally by #Tomtop for review. All rights reserved.
Nice upgrades,when I changed my spur gear on my Wltoys 12423 had I used my solider gun and put a little heat on the screws and they came right out
That’s a really good tip! I tried to use a heat gun but probably didn’t warm them up enough (afraid to melt the plastic too). Wish I had tried your way ☺️ Good tip pinned. Will try it, bro. Thanks!
@@NordicRC your welcome brother,just hold it on the screw until it is pretty hot and it should work.
if they have used red threadlock instead of blue, its always wise to put some heat into it first, before breaking tools or even worse, rounding out the screw.
I admire your perseverance. I had the same exactly the same experience with the grub screws on my Wraiths driveshafts. Now I use heat shrink to cover the holes that the grub screws go in on the shafts instead of thread lock on the screws. It may not help keep them tight, but it contains them if they work loose. 🙂👍🏻👍🏻
Well, not much perseverance in the end after all. But then again, it was getting cold outside (my only excuse) ☺️ That’s a good tip, Derek. I use the Tamiya blue thread lock and the Tamiya gel thread lock. Works perfect. Never had a problem with screws coming lose and never had a problem with unscrewing them.
Ahh Mikael - this is how it goes sometimes - good on you for posting the fail - we all have them - hopefully that soldering iron trick will get things moving - I really enjoyed the Typhon blast at the end. That jump off the ramp was AWESOME!!! :))
Ha ha, I love posting videos like this :-) I usually always get a great tip that I can use and get smarter and smarter. I should of course have tried to research it while I was doing it, but well, I got stubborn since the heat gun, or drill alwyas have worked in the past. But the soldering tip-tip is so great. So simple and great :-) Thanks a lot for watching. Yeah, that jump was actually one of my first jumps with the Arrma. Looking forward getting my wider dirt jump finished so I can try it full throttle :-)
I like your solution at the end. I just bought in to the 12428 and I am anticipating the same failure at some point. Good to know what I can expect to get myself in to when it happens. Thanks for the vid!
The ‘I Give Up’ solution ? The benefit of having a lot of other RC cars 😂😅😅 Yeah. Well, later off camera I managed to get the old drive shaft off luckily. And install the new. Thanks a lot for watching.
Yep those are a pain! I heat the grub screw up with a small blow torch or soldering iron tip it usually makes the grub screws come right out.😁The arrma was nice!
Uhh, yeah, first time I've experienced something like this. I've won over quite a few grub screws over time ... but this one ... pew :-) Yes! Several have written in about the soldering tip. I tried with a heat gun, but not enough (and plastic near by so I couldn't give it all). But the soldering iron tip tip is exactly what I was hoping for, posting this vid ! Will try it out :-) I knew I was missing something, he he.
Dm
Welcome to the club Mikael! I love it when it breaks, especially when you use a "round" one and it keeps stuck in the grub screw. Cool video tho buddy! 👍
Ha ha, thanks, Charlie. First time I had to give up on a grub screw :-)
Well, you can’t say you didn’t give it your all Mikael! I used a heat gun on a grub screw the other day. I too was worried about the surrounding plastic; I used it on the low setting and kind of moved over it back and forth several times. Luckily you’re Arrma saved the day with a sweet jump!👍😊
He he, first grub screw that won 😅 I used the heat gun too. But I think these ones needed more. The tip about the soldering iron tip is great I think. Will try that. And yeah, good I got my Arrma, Traxxas and Tamiyas that always saves the day ☺️
Rest in pieces screwdriver.. You will be missed😢
😂🙃 He he, yeah, sometimes things doesnt go as planned
Oh god I feel your pain with that grub screw being stuck. A simple upgrade job suddenly takes hours. What a pain. I guess that an advantage of RC's you build from a kit is that you can use the correct products like medium strength thread lock rather than glue. I don't know how to solve your issue really. For pinion gears I have this pinion puller widget that can get them off if seized. No good for your problem tho. Anyway epic jumps with the Typhon. Hope you are having a good day mate :-)
Yeah, never had to give up before this one. But now I got a tip for the next time: using the soldering iron tip. That will be better than the heat gun for glue like this. Yeah, the kits allow me to use my different Tamiya thread locks. Never a problem with those ☺️ Thanks a lot for watching my failure Pete. And yes, Arrma saved my day ☺️
where is the end of the video, how was the drive replaced?
Hi! Uhh, never gotten around to it. Got occupied with other projects and cars. But soon!
Nice video Mikael. We are in lockdown right now you should review some micro rc cars like the wltoys k989 in banggood or the L929 from Amazon. That would be some perfect rc cars for the quarantine anyway have a nice day. Good content.
Thank you, Ruth! Yeah lockdown here too. Could be cool with some micro RC cars. Such a great idea. I got some other ones though, so I will have to do them first. If the lockdown isn’t over by then, I think I will look into it. Have a great day too, my friend.
Similar issue happened to me, but instead of breaking it just popped from the gear. Threadlocked it and its been fince since
Uhh, good thing you where more lucky than me 🙂
Welcome. When replacing this part, we had the same problem, first it was impossible to unscrew the bolt, then we drilled one part (the one closer to the drive axle), and left the other part (the one closer to the engine) :D
Good you got it fixed :-)
I had one of these. I must have spent a fortune on replacement parts and "upgrades". I gave up and sold it. What a money pit! 😂
Grumpy Granddad Stinky’s RC Dump Ha ha, yeah. I have seen others have a lot of fun with it though. As soon as I get the time I will try again and see if I can get the screws off. What a newbie problem 😅 I live and learn.
What material are they both made from ? Also how long does shipping take for yourself when you order from banggood ? My wait time has been around 3-4 weeks which I don’t find too bad considering the distance .
I tried to show it on the vid. The new (silver one) is probably steel, as it is magnetic (and the description said it was steel). The stock one wasn't magnetic so definitely not steel. Probably some cheap aluminium.
Yeah, around that time to Scandinavia too, sometimes it takes a little longer, sometimes a little shorter. Sometimes very fast from the EU warehouse.
I had the same experience with the wltoys 144001. For my part, I apply on the screw a cotton swab soaked in acetone overnight. The next day a blow of thermal stripper and that is finally unscrewed!
J'ai eu la même expérience avec la wltoys 144001. Pour ma part, j'applique sur l'écrou un coton tige imbibé d’acétone toute une nuit. Le lendemain un coup de décapeur thermique et ça se dévisse enfin !
Hi Gabriel! Thanks a lot for the tip. I might look into that. Thanks again
Wow if only the drive shafts were as strong as the drive cups that RC would be unstoppable!
Ha ha, priceless :-) Yeah, I wish !
Had the same problem.... Just super glued the plastic to the metal and its held on 3s so far....!
Nice, Steven! I'll try the soldering iron tip I got here :-)
Nice video time for a break 😂😂👍👊
He he, yeah! Had a great break with the Arrma ☺️
Hello! Question: Which is more reliable - the WLToys 12428 or the HBX HAIBOXING 12815? Had dramas with all WLToys models to be honest. They are fun but they all come with some kind of flaw which has me spending more time repairing them than driving them with my kids. I Have the 959a and the 959b as well as the a202, a212 , a232. Fun but something always breaks normally in the diff or the drivetrain. Is HBX more reliable?
In my experience they are pretty much the same quality. I break stuff on all my RC’s. I recently put up a video with the Protector breaking. So it’s hard to say. But I somehow feel often that HBX puts a little more thought into their design. For an example I can’t remember any problems with too strong thread lock on HBX. And for the small ones, the 1/18, my general impression is that they hold up a bit more and is geared more sensible. But I do like both brands. But not too sure I like the use of glue/super-thread lock that WLToys are using. Really unnecessary.
@@NordicRC Yeh I hear you. I got the HBX Devastator crawler and it has been great. Very sensible design. I wanted to check out some others knowing by son has a birthday coming up. He wants the 12428 but I am tired of fixing WLToys stuff when it is not due to a crash. The 959a had a plastic drive shaft that just gives up. The 959b has metal shaft but plastic gears and is just too silly. The a202/212 etc. all have a plastic gear at the end of the drive shaft that regularly strips and requires a major disassembly every 4-5 sessions. Was going to try to convince him to get the HBX instead.
Hello, i have a question. Whats the indicator when the battery is fully charged with the original charger?? Thank you
No idea. I would look it up in the manual if I was you 😉
@@NordicRCit tells nothing about my problem
Ahh, too bad, yeah, that’s a problem 🙁
@@NordicRC yah, i'll search it on internet, btw thanks for replying 😁🙌
Sorry I couldn’t help.
Yea wltoys uses lock tight stronger than the red one. I found it takes a lot of heat to loosen them up. I clean it off with lacquer thinner before putting back together. I use blue lock tight.dont try taking the motor mount out all my screws broke. Had to by a new one. Have a blast bro
Yeah, what usually works didn’t work here. I got the tip here, using the soldering iron tip instead of the heat gun. That might get it hot enough. Normally I use Tamiya blue thread lock and their gel thread lock. Works sweet and is easy to remove again. Yeah, the motor mounts on my other WLtoys A9*9 series are also glued on. Luckily one can just remove it all. But these outdrives has to be removed in order to install the new drive shafts or spur gear. Thanks for the new tip too! I might try that out some day! Thanks again, Walter.
It can be very annoying with things like this, take a couple of days off and go back to it, you'll get in out in the end. The Arrma was a great distraction though, what a beast! 💪🔥👍
Hi bro. Yeah, gonna try another day. I wish I had tried the tip I got here with the soldering iron tip. I live and learn ☺️ And yes, so far, the Typhon just delivers ☺️
I used a dremel and cut the cups on both sides with the grub screws once I reached the grub screws with an even cut down both sides I squeezed the cup with a large pair of channel locks breaking the cup in 2 pieces then your able to install your new shaft I have this same model super modified with a locked rear diff and I have yet to find a driveshaft that can hold up good luck to you friend !
Thanks a lot for the info and tips, Cody! After a break I got it loose with a hammer and screw driver 😂😅
Hahaha classic 😂🤘
Please part 2
Uhh yeah, need to revisit this one. Forgot all about it. But still have it 😀
@@NordicRC please I got so far and I need your help. So please make a part two and I love your channel
What car are you jumping with in the end of the movie
The Arrma Typhon 6S V4 if I remember correctly
This is why I stick to the rc like this very nice Arma 6s buggy. Nice video, you are more patient than me.
Thanks a lot, Benoit. I like them all, cheap or expensive. It’s fun trying different kinds of models, although the Arrma won in fun factor this day 😅
@@NordicRC it doesn't have to be expensive. I would prefer a small LC Racing rc, Arma brushed buggy or... I don't know... a Tamiya kit. ;).
Did you ever get the screws out?
Yeah! Just need to get it out running again for a video.
For me I can open the front part but not back dunno why
Haha, I have exactly the same problem, waiting for new pins 🤷🏻♂️
Yeah, seems to be a common WLtoys issue ☺️
Oh crap, My wltoys 12428 needs new drive shaft it's coming in the post. Hope mine not this hard to remove.
Uhh, let’s hope. Maybe you have better skills than me ☺️
Heat the grub screw with a soldering iron. Heat is required to loosen thread lock compound.
@@secretagb thanks will do, still waiting on the part to arrive.
Lol my 12428 is in a pile to I'm giving up on it it's now parts for my 12423 lpl
This might end up in a parts box some day too 😅 Gonna give it one more chance though. Let’s see. Well, what’s most important I got some good tips for future crazy glued grub screws here in this comment section so I am a happy man 😅 Thanks a lot for watching, Brent.
@@NordicRC lol I use a small torch and just keep lightly hitting it till it breaks free
I had a brand new snow blower. The kind without an impeller to throw the snow. It kept getting clogged. I tried all the tricks I could find. So... I sat it on fire and threw beer cans at it while it burned. Felt much better. =)
Lol, way to go Gary. Love it 😄👍🏻👍🏻
Ha ha, priceless, well, at the end of this experience I was ready to try something similar with the WLToys :-)
I had the exact same problem and ended up drilling out all for screws. I examined chunks of the amber glue that was used, and I can confirm that it was not thread lock. I too destroyed tools trying to get them out. It's sad because the 12427 was indestructible for months before the shaft finally broke. I still think it's a great basher. Mine was just assembled by idiots.
Hi David! Good to know it just isn’t me having this issue ☺️ Usually I have always been able to get the grub screws off, even with thread lock. But yeah, these ones, definitely not normal thread lock. It seems like a good car yes. Fun to drive, even with the bouncyness of the springs. But yes, definitely build by someone who doesn’t know better 😅
Had the same trouble, had to use an angle grinder to get it off
Wish I had one of those back then 🙂
I used a screw driver and a tissue for grip and it opens. But it was super hard indeed
This was my first rc car and introduction into the hobby. Was really fun to drive until it broke and now i have been on a 2 week nightmare spending money and trying different things to fix it. Its been horrible with no success.
Seems very flexible and durable, but yeah mine broke on the first run too.
@@NordicRC I had to replace 4 other parts just to replace the broken driveshaft. Hope it all works out in the end.
This must be an annoying RC to fix if anything breaks... My friend has one, luckily it's still going strong after 4 months somehow
Yeah, so annoying with the glue-thread lock. No idea why they do it. The thread lock I use holds up perfectly and can easily be unscrewed again. Great to hear your friend’s is doing good.
It's not bad at all. Most people buy them to take them apart for hobby. Some people don't want easy.
I have seen some vids where they apply a soldering iron to the grub screw and the screw that holds the rear cog to the diff. If it was me I would take the opportunity to upgrade the broken bits because they are pretty cheap and easy to find - I have just spent the evening tring to find a rear diff for my mission - d drift car with no luck so the 12428 is not the best rc in the world but at least it has lots of parts.
Yeah! Got the tip here in the comment section when the video was released. Wish I had got the tip sooner, ha ha. But now I am ready for the next time 😅🙂👋🏻
Last stage is the angle grinder... 😱
MINO73 Yeah, maybe it will end up with that. I just don’t have one 😅 Already got a good simple tip I will try out (pinned above).
I have the same problem and I solved it yesterday. I used a drill to destroy the screw 😂
Nice! Tried to use a drill here too, but my drill ends just broke. Need better 😅
I used precision hex drivers from amazon and a cheap solder iron pen style and left on each screw for 5 mins and let it cool then it came loose
Thanks for the tip! Yeah, it seems the soldering tip is the best trick. Many commented kindly with this tip. I wish I had know before so started on this, he he 😅
have to heat the location of the rear axle bolts, as it has a lot of thread lock
Yeah, believe me, heated it with a heat gun. But it needs a lot of heat. A blow torch or got a tip heating it with a soldering iron. I live and learn 😅
My 12428 have 3 years and drive fine
Very nice!
I can tell you why you couldn't remove that screw - (Well I can tell you why I couldn't remove mine, and this is another example of pre-emptive strike "Screw Tightening". You could have removed this screw when the buggy was new, but and this is a "BIG BUTT" ! ! ! ! Those particular screws take a ton of torque every time you land a jump, or even just normal acceleration. Best case scenario is that grub screw snaps completely at the shaft, and you're able to work the drive shaft off, and then dig or drill the remainder out. Worst case scenario is pretty much what happend to you. A different part of the drive shaft breaks, before the grub screw snaps. Now you've got to try to remove a grub screw that has been torqued to the point of damaging the screw, the threads, and the hole, and there's no way in HE## you're ever going to get it out.
OK - once I was able to twist a shaft off and get to the damage and salvage it, but that was only once.
Basically - I just keep a spare gear, and shafts, and hope I can order and receive a new one before it breaks again.
If you pre-tighten, you can also pull the screw, clean it, and use blue loctite when you put it back in. It helps sometimes, but that tiny little screw has no business trying to absorb the torque of normal driving, let alone long jump videos.
Usually I can get them off, on my other models. Even the ones with thread lock. But this one was more glue than thread lock, and yes, it might have bitten even harder, after a couple of jumps. But I think the kind of thread lock they use is the real problem. And then one on each side. Four in total. Glued/sealed. Talk about overkill 😀 😂
try to apply fire on those screw..... the fire expands the metal and the screw will be release!! nice video!
It's hard to apply fire (since the plastic is close and one can't get the spur gear off if one can't get the grub screw off). Tried with a heat gun. Didn't help.
תודה רבה!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Use the tip of a soldering iron for heat! Heard that tip before? Lol
I was hoping to get a trick like that with this video :-) I live and learn. So simple. I think it might work :-)
Yeeeees thank you ,WE have tried everything top Open Irans only your Tipp has worked
Why oh why do they use the threadlock that's indestructible. I have never broke a arrowmax driver, so to see one fail what are they using. The only way round is to buy all new inner parts or if me bin it.
Yeah, it seems so utterly pointless to do that to what is supposed to be a hobby-grade. If one, like me, hasn't got the right tools or the right tricks, they are impossible to unscrew. I was very very surprised to see the Arrowmax go too. It's definitely not normal 'RC hobby-grade' thread lock. It's possible some thread lock that is supposed to stay on there forever. Maybe for real size constructions. I always use the blue Tamiya thread lock or the red Tamiya gel thread lock. Always works. Never unscrews unless you want it to.
@@NordicRC Tamiya Blue is my go to threadlock. sometimes a little hard to get hold of, last tube I had to get from Hong Kong.
Con un soldador de estaño calienta el tornillo si está duro,para no poner una llama y quemar otros componentes
Unfortunetaly I have the same problem :(
Uhh. Take a look at some of the tips I got in the comment section ... the beauty of CZcams 😻
What ended up working?
Ride hight is to high from factory placing shaft at a hard angle. Lower your buggy and straighten the driveshaft. The buggy will not flip over as much either. It's all in shock length and travel.
Hi Shaun! That could be a good idea. Just managed to replace the shaft now. Think I will try it stock again, for some rocks/heavy off road terrain before lowering it. But thanks for the tip!
mine did that after the 3rd run, i thought it would be durable 🤦♂️
Me too 🤔
i have like... 3 months upgrading this piece of car... just got the new motor today... wish me luck jejeje
Good luck! If you encounter any glue/thread lock then check out the tips in this comment section 🙂
You had a bad day, try again you never know 👍🏻
Yeah, another day 😅 Thanks a lot for wstching.
And what have UUUUUUUUUUU DONE...
LOL
rc guy Ha ha, I live and learn 😅 I think I got a new tip (pinned above).
@@NordicRC Yeah, do that...
Thinking about building a 10th scale tyco outlaw clone.... Don't know which chassis to choose.. Racing Buggy or a grasshopper?
The question is: what is the other beauty at the beginning and the end of the video please😇?
The Arrma Typhon 6S BLX v4 :-)
Yep! :-)
thanks @nordic rc visions @sol rc
I know I'm late but I just ran into this problem. Torch it like you want to send it to hell. Torch the absolute f**k out of it. It'll come off. Even if it's pressed on.
I ended up heating it up with a soldering iron. That did the trick.
Heat up setscews with lighter to remove screws easier
Ahh, I tried, even with a heat gun. I think the tip I got here from several with a hot soldering iron to warm it up is a good trick.
haha this should be required viewing for new RC hobbyists. If you buy the banggood specials, be prepared to spend more time and frustration than you saved in dollars. Better to save up a little more and get something with more reliability and easily replaced parts. I have wasted many hours on things just like this. It is always the little things like an adamantium grub screw that ruin your day.
Sometimes the Banggood specials work great for me ... but sometimes, like this time, not so great 😅☺️
@@NordicRC I'm still a sucker for punishment sometimes though, as I have a 12428 coming today. LOL Roll the dice, and if all else fails have parts for another Frankenstein build. :)
It literally says toy in the name. I personally stay far away from non hobby grade Rc’s
I consider this a hobby-grade though. Just one of the cheapest of the kind 😅 Hopefully I will get a good tip here and get it fixed.
You should have placed a soldering iron on it to heat it up to loosen it up.
Yeah! I never thought about it before the comments on this vid :-) I was hoping for a little help with a tip like that :-) Heat gun usually works, but not with this one.
1 comentario
Benja pirofuegos 😘
Keep trying the basket case it will give up the ghost eventually. Lol
😂😂😂😂
:-) Ha ha
Drill them out
I tried ... 😀
@@NordicRC sell it on eBay they make good money 👍